BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

div2 · March 2004

Well, like Tire Rack says, the ER30 is essentialy a grand touring tire while the Pilot Sport is a serious performance shoe. Me, I'd take the Pilots over the ER30s every time; any increase in NVH is more than offset bt the Pilot's superior capabilities and limits. Expect increased understeer with the staggered wheel/tire package. Running 4-6 more PSI in the front will mitigate the effects of the staggered setup.

ajl1000 · March 2004

Hi!
I started to really notice that little gas gauge and began to wonder about gas mileage. I was wondering if it's more efficient to accelerate slowly without too much throttle or to press harder on the throttle but get up to speed quicker.

Thanks,
AJL1000

mschukar · March 2004

Congratulations on your purchase! Obviously, I agree with some of your choices; I think you will be very happy with the performance with winter tires.

I saved and planned for my car (02 325i w/SP, HK, OBC, WP, Xenons, Moonroof) for two years, but once I signed the deal, the clock was ticking. I couldnt wait any longer! That was over two years ago now and I love every minute in it.

You will not be disappointed!

-murray

kyfdx · March 2004

I'm really not worried about handling at the limits (oversteer, etc), as it is my wife's car, and will never approach those limits. I didn't really pick out the tires.. they were already on the wheels I wanted and are brand new, so too hard to pass up.

Because it is her car, I'm more concerned about NVH. I'm with you...if it was my car, I'd be extremely happy to be upgrading. I don't think she'll have to worry about increased understeer, as she has never had the fun light (DSC) come on while driving the car. Tirerack shows them to be pretty good on ride, noise, treadwear, etc., but they are only comparing them to other max performance tires.

I guess I'm going to find out either way... They go on the car Friday. I guess if they are intolerable, she'll have to drive my Honda (insert evil laugh here).

regards,
kyfdx

gordonwd · March 2004

Well, my 325i went from "In production" to "Waiting to ship" last week. I read somewhere that after it ships, the dealer can tell you the name of the ship it's on and you can go to the shipping co.'s web site and actually track the ship's progress. Anyone ever done this?

domp04 · March 2004

Hi, I currently have a QX4, and I'm looking to switch over to a BMW in a few months. I'm considering either a 2000 328Ci or a 2000 528i. I previously owned a '92 735i, which had several reliability issues (replaced engine, etc.). I was wondering if there is a major difference between the maintenance and repair costs of the 528 and the 328. Thanks.

westmorland · March 2004

I have heard that dealers sell the euro spec. first aid kit boxes and mounting hardware that allow you to install these boxes under the front seats where they can be used for extra storage. I am not interested in the medical kits but the plastic boxes they go in.

Although my dealer could find a part number for the boxes and mounting kits for my car (2004 330 CIC with sport seats) , he said that these items are not available in the USA. Evidently the kits and boxes for the standard seats are available. Has anyone out there installed the boxes on a convertible with sport seats ? What parts did you use and where did you get them ? Do they work for storing small items such as CDs etc.? If not available here can I order them on the internet from Europe ?

thanks,

Westmorland

thank

bmw323is · March 2004

I don't have a convertible, but I do have sport seats. I received a European E46 first aid kit as a prize at a concours. I tried to install it under the passenger seat and couldn't figure it out. It came with no instructions and the mounting hardware seemed to make no sense. So I put it in the trunk. It seemed very large to be able to fit under the seat - maybe they are made differently for the type of seat that you have. But if I were able to figure out how to mount it under the seat, I don't beleive the seat would be able to be lowered fully.

div2 · March 2004

Here's the information you need:
http://www.eurobuyers.com/accessory.html
Steve Diamond-the owner of Eurobuyers-is a good guy. He's honest, prompt, and has fair prices.
Note that you can access the factory installation instuctions at the bottom of the page.

soverypoornow · March 2004

Not only did I track my ship from port to port, I tried to figure as best I could when it would be going through the Panama Canal. Then, I found a couple Panama Canal Web cams and tried to catch my ship coming through. I saw just one car carrier in the 3-4 day window I figured it would be near the canal. I like to think it was my ship.

gordonwd · March 2004

Without my asking, my salesman called me today to give me my shipping info. Knowing the name of the ship, I was able to go to the Wallenius web site and find the schedule. It left Bremerhaven on the 29th, will be stopping in Zeebrugge (Belgium) and Southampton and will arrive in NYC on April 10 (6 days from England). Since sold cars are priority 1, I should have it by the 16th or so.

This is really cool!

bill42 · March 2004

My son is considering the purchase of a 325 coupe with about 25000 miles on it. It is BMW certified.

Anything in particular he should look for in terms of wear and reliability issues?

What is the next service interval for the car? 30k, 35k? What should be done at that point.

Thanks for any help.

dan4 · March 2004

Blackhawker-thanks for your ideas. I will break out the premium package as you suggested. Looking at it all I only need heated seats with moon roof & powered front seats. I will try to get the dealer to show me the sport seats. I imagine that would be more comfortable. I am also considering the wagon. I can really use the extra space. I also like the silver with black interior. I am considering orient blue.....thanks

div2 · March 2004

When you start the car there will be a readout in the instrument cluster that will tell you how many miles until the next service. A 2002 325i should require an Inspection I-AKA a minor service-at @32000 miles. An Inspection I is essentially an oil and filter change coupled with various fluid level and component checks. A good independent BMW tech will charge less than $200 for the service, a dealer @40% more.

kyfdx · March 2004

It should have free service included for 3 years or 36K miles, whichever comes first.. So, it should still be covered for free service from any authorized BMW dealer. For about an extra $1400, he can have the free maintenance extended to match the life of the CPO warranty. Since he will have to take it to the dealer for warranty work for the next four years anyway, I'd spring for that also, or at least consider it. The additional maintenance plan can be added at any time before the original plan expires.

regards,
kyfdx

bmw323is · March 2004

Thanks for the link on the first aid kit. I'll give it a try this weekend. Actually, I got my kit from Steve Diamond - well he donated it for a prize and I won it. I've talked with him once or twice about euro delviery. He was very honest and helpful.

blackhawker · March 2004

I think the dealers are reluctant to sell the sports seats as a separate package, tho as others in the know on this board have noted (do a search) there is a specific item number that you can submit for stand-alone sport seats. My dealer told me a many times he couldn't do it, and i had to get him to call bmwna to confirm. Perhaps some dealers know they can do this. In the end i got the entire sports package anyway, and am mighty glad i did. Good luck on your vehicle search. I'm counting the days til my ship comes in.

tenet1 · March 2004

OK, so I have never leased before for the usual reasons (cant write off, no equity, mileage limitations etc.), but lately I have been doing some thinking in favor of leasing.

Generally I buy a new car every 4 years and pay about half cash and finance the rest over 4 years. That was in my 20's. Now I am married, single income and need 2 cars and have a mortgage and understand the value of cash in the bank (kids college, school etc.). So I think that leasing is a good way to go for the following reasons

1. Cash in the bank
2. Why sink cash into a depreciating asset every four years only to put more money down for a new one.
3. Good if the leased vehicle will have less than 12k miles per year
4. No worry about selling the car after a few years and getting ripped of on trade-in
5. Monthly car payments are factored into living expenses anyway.
6. Lease period lasts during warranty and free maint.
7. If I ever want to buy again, I will have plenty cash in the bank
8. Cash in the bank

Anyone see any compelling reasons NOT to lease a car besides the wear and tear issues during lease return? I would like to hear your opinions.

Thanks

blueguydotcom · March 2004

I've got one leased car and one purchased car. I've leased and purchased in the past too.

The big advantage on the least can come from crazy low money factors. On my BMW I got a money factor that's the equivalent of 0.7% interest. At that rate, I'm essentially paying for what I use of the car. 15k miles a year for 3 years and my ZHP is only costing my $480 a month. I sincerely doubt the 330i I have will be worth 25k in 2006. BMW's problem.

There's my big issue with leases though...I tend to be harder on the car. I just don't care about the longterm so I do things I'd never dream of doing with an owned car. Just started the car? Redline it. Break-in period? does it matter in the long term? Not really. It'll be someone else's problem when it's out of warranty.

Leases can be great to get you in a more expensive car for less cash outlay. In the end though you're throwing cash away (unless you get a write-off).

Everything I've read about sound money management involves buying a used 3 year old car and holding it for 7-10 years. At 3 years the car's lost 40-50% of its value and cars are so well made today in general that most will last well into the 150k miles range. Additionally, certified pre-owned deals allow buyers to slide into cars and get a warranty.

Will I lease again? If the deal's as scary sweet as my BMW, sure. I'll drop 17k over 3 years and part ways with the car. There's no way I could have bought it and gotten away that cheaply in 2006.

On the flip side, my Mazda Pro ES had an msrp of 17.4k. I paid 11.3k. Even now with 8k miles on it, I'd be fine on a trade-in. The deal worked perfectly and it's a solid commuter car. I own it straight out and after the BMW's gone I'll still own this as my runabout. Plus when it comes time to shop for another fun car, I don't have to hurry as I've got the Pro as my backup.

bagm · March 2004

I've had an accident in my 2003 3 series and am now trying to decide what to do.
I have narrowed my choice of a NY area body/repair shop to Habberstad BMW collision center and the Little Garage. Would anyone be able to recommened one over the other? Are there any advantages to taking it to an authorized center like Habberstad? Little garage has an excellent reputation and uses only OEM parts. Thanks for your advice.

div2 · March 2004

Who do the local CCA members recommend? Those folks will have the straight scoop. Dealer body shops can range from excellent to terrible; I certainly wouldn't base my decision on the fact that one shop is an "Approved BMW Center".

brave1heart · March 2004

tenet1,

Whether you lease or buy, you have to pay for the depreciation, maintenance, taxes, fees to acquire/dispose of and financing of the undepreciated portion of the car over the time period that you use it. Cash in the bank is not a good proposition if your lease has a money factor that translates to 8% financing while the cash you "saved" earns you only 2% in the bank. If you own the car, you probably wouldn't pay $500 for the couple of small dents on the rear bumper to be straightened out and repainted but if you leased it, the dealer may force you to pay that. Generally, if you drive few miles a year, keep the car clean, don't care to personalize it, like to have a new car every 3 or 4 years, and especially if you can write off the lease expense, it makes sense to look into leasing. A high lease residual makes leasing cheaper, although it usually reflects high residual value for the car from which you will also benefit as an owner. In the past 5 years or so, cars have been depreciating faster mostly because GM killed the used car market with its marketing programs for new cars. Historically, however, the consumer takes a bigger hit than the leasing companies if only because they write the rules. I agree with blueguy that "sound money management involves buying a used 3 year old car and holding it for 7-10 years". Buying new and holding for 7-10 years may be an even better option because you can order the car exactly the way you want it, you will be sure that it has not been flogged by a previous owner, and that it has been maintained properly. It may well end up costing you less long-term and allow you to enjoy it better.

kyfdx · March 2004

Forget about depreciating assets, tax implications and all that.. Leasing is just another way to go about financing a car. It has some pros and cons.

PROS

1) If leasing incentives apply, interest may be cheaper than traditional financing. For example: 330i has effective lease rate of 2.4% vs likely finance rate of 4%.
2) If you trade every 3 years, your trade-in value is guaranteed.
3) If your car is damaged in an accident during the lease period, you walk away from it at end of lease with no "diminished value".
4) If you stick to 3 year leases, you are generally under warranty the entire time. (depends)
5) Generally, you never have to buy tires, batteries, brakes, etc.. This will vary with car and mileage driven.
6) Assuming you trade every three years, there may be sales tax advantages, especially if you live in a state where there is no credit for trade-ins.

CONS

1) You will have to buy a new car every three years. I used to lease both of our cars, but buying a new car every 1.5 years was just too much.
2) The acquisition fee negates some of the sales tax savings.. Kind of like paying points on a mortgage.
3) If you don't live up to the terms of the contract, it will cost you. You have no choice of not fixing dents, doing maintenance, etc.
4) Deciding to buy the car at the end of lease will likely mean you have paid more for it than you would have, had you bought it to start with.
5) Many more opportunities for the dealer to play with the numbers, driving up your costs unknowingly. You really have to do more research and take your calculator with you. I've almost made $900 mistakes, knowing exactly how it works.
6) Some states make leasing not such a good deal. Illinois comes to mind. I believe they have to pay sales tax on the entire car, even though only leasing it for 3 years. Also, the vicarious liability laws in New York and Connecticut are driving up fees there.

Usually, it comes down to the individual and the individual vehicle. If the lease deals are supported, like the 3-series are now, it makes a lot of sense to lease. For low residual vehicles (think Kia, Hyundai and some domestics) it rarely pays.

And, you aren't throwing your money away on lease payments.. The lease payment is made up of depreciation and interest. The same as a financed car payment. The difference is the lease attempts to match the actual depreciation with the amount of depreciation you pay each month. It is the real world cost of using the car.

regards,
kyfdx

blueguydotcom · March 2004

5) Generally, you never have to buy tires, batteries, brakes, etc.. This will vary with car and mileage driven.

Wow, I've never owned a car with tires that would last over 20k miles, let alone 40!

Brave, yeah if you buy a car and hold onto it for 7-10 years, you should be fine. At that point you got the most out of it you probably could.

But your initial outlay was significantly more. My car brand new including ttl would have cost about 44k. By 2006 BMW optimistically predicted it'd be worth 25k (they're on crack). That's almost 20k in 3 years.

Even buying a 1 year old used car can save a buyer 15-20% off the the original sale price.

kyfdx · March 2004

But, my wife had an Acura Vigor and three Accords.. put 50k on each of them, and the tires passed inspection every time. I put 55k on a Pathfinder and the tires passed as well. I've never had to buy tires on a leased vehicle. I'm sure it would be different with a 45K lease on a 3-series.. but, I bought this one, so no problem.

Uh...wait... I've had the car for 5K miles and I've already bought two sets of tires... That is another story, though.

regards,
kyfdx

blackhawker · March 2004

I just went into a lease, have bought in the past, so did a lot of homework on this...if you drive for unreimbursed work purposes you can claim a tax deduction on those miles as well...
Cash down or high monthly payment, (if you have made the decision to lease) you're paying the same in the end anyway, cash down just buys down your monthly payment level - except for the interest you may have gotten on the cash in the bank. It's a marginal call for the most part on cash down or not. I prefer no money down except taxes and tags. Hey - you can drive a new bimmer for about 400 bucks a month.

One thing for sure...BMW is offering sweet leases in March and April...just got one with a .0165 money factor..that translates into less than a 4% APR. 12,00 annual miles. The residual value on my bimmer was 21,000+ after 36 months, which is far better than most leasing companies offered. The 42 month option is also attractive. Plus, maintenance on BMW is entirely free for the period of the lease.

Downside as noted by others is that the car will probably not be a good deal for me if i wanted to buy at the end of lease. Get in a lease if you want to turn over your ride for a new one every 3 years or so, and want to avoid the hassle of selling a used car. You do have to pay attention to terms of contract, keep the car in good shape, and pay (in my case 20 cent penalty miles if you go over the limit)...but at 1000 miles over thats only 200 bucks, and in my case i have a 7 year old car now with 70K miles, so i'm not too worried.

So obviously depends on your circumstances.

blueguydotcom · March 2004

ky, I'm talking about EVERY car I've ever owned. I've never had one with tires that lasted over 20k miles - Nissans, Fords, VWs, Mazdas, BMW, you name it.

.0165 is a good MF now? I don't think I'll ever find another deal to match my .0003 MF

tenet1 · March 2004

Thanks all for the many opinions you have provided and they really support my thinking in many regards. The reason I am considering leasing is because I will only get another BMW and BMW leasing terms are fairly attractive and residuals hold up very well. Otherwise I would never consider leasing a GM (lets say).

Blueguy - Completely agree on the 3 year old car as the most sensible. If I had any will power I would drive an 10K econobox for the rest of my life and die a rich (but unhappy) man. you did get a killer deal but I think in general BMW residuals make them good lease targets

Brave - I never mod cars and dont intend to put excess mileage on the car. The money factor is definately the key but it seems that money factors can be had lower than the loan interest if you are able to negotiate well.

Kyfdx - Thanks for you pro's and cons. your cons actually support leasing a BMW

1) We wont be replacing both cars every 4 years so I can handle it

2)Many have leased with close to $0 down on a lease

3) I fix my dents and dings on the cars I own so dont see why I wouldn't do it for a leased vehicle. cost of ownership. maintanence on BMW is covered through the term of the lease

4) Beauty of leasing is that I get a new one after 4 years. I would love to sell my 2.5 year old 325 and get a 330 but reason tells me otherwise :-)

5) Dealers love to take you anyway, just have to be careful

6)Non-issue in MD

Any more interesting insights from personal experience?

307web · March 2004

If you lease a car for 3 years 36K or 45K miles, isn't it likely that you will be required to replace them with new tires at the end of the lease or be charged with "excessive wear?"
I have had tires show alot of wear at and before about that mileage.
In that case "you never have to buy tires, batteries, brakes, etc." is not one of the advantages of leasing. Maybe on a 24 month lease.
Not fun paying for replacement tires and not getting any use of them.

mark_m · March 2004

More thoughts on leasing:

Never put money down for a lease, tuck that cap cost reduction away in a separate account and draw from it to supplement your monthly payments.

Read the fine print about end of lease fees that get you on the back end. We had to shell out end of lease $400 and $300 - $400 additional for my wife's old civic. (Additional was attributed to tires and more than 2 dings per panel.)

If you have any body repair work done covered by insurance (or not) make darn sure that it is quality work. The inspector knew full well that the civic had prop rod damage to the hood, and did the once over on the hood, fenders, etc. Prop rod is funny story... someone who shall remain nameless was used to domestics that have spring loaded hood. Prop rod on the car was placed just far enough back on the hood to allow for sufficient torque .. . .

Consider looking toward alternative financing routes... think credit union ... we financed the 330i on a 60 month loan at 3.03%

nyccarguy · March 2004

I concur with many of the points already made regarding the benefits of leasing and would just like to add some of my personal anecdotes from my limited leasing and car ownership experiences.

blueguydotcom: You got a great MF on your lease. How much money a month did it save you by putting down the MSDs? $480/month for your ZHP is a great deal!

I totally agree with you that "buying a used 3 year old car and holding it for 7-10 years" is the most financially sound way to go. With the way BMW design trends are going lately (E60), I'd love to pick up a 2 or 3 year old '04 or '05 330Ci ZHP a few years into the future. Maybe I wouldn't keep it for the said 7-10 years, but even if I keep it for 3 or 4 years I wouldn't have to outlay or loase as much money as if I were buying a new $40K+ BMW every 3-4 years.

In my relatively short 12 years of driving and car ownership I've owned 2 cars and leased 2 cars. I think the greatest things about leasing are that you don't have to worry about the cars and the guaranteed resale value. For the most part they're covered under warranty for the duration of the lease. I'd floor my '00 Saab 9-3 (Turbo) in the freezing temps of winter when merging onto the westside highway in NYC on my way to work.

When the lease is over you just give the car back. You don't have to worry about getting lowballed on your trade (it happens more often than not). No matter how much you think the car is worth because you waxed it every month and washed it every week and it is in showroom condition the dealer isn't going to give you whatever you had your hopes set on.

As far as those "wear and tear" damages thet we're afraid of:

I turned in my '98 Ford Explorer Sport with a 13" scratch across the tailgate where some talented hoodlum took my own rear wiper, turned it out, and used it to scratch my truck down to the paint. I was not charged a dime for this.

I parked my Saab on the streets of Manhattan for a few years. The bumpers were all nicked and scratched up. I was charged $90 for paint time to repaint the front and rear bumper from Saab credit. If I would have gone out and gotten the bumpers repainted, it would have easily cost $500-$600.

The fact that BMWFS sets the residuals for their cars so high shows that they truly stand behind their product.

blueguydotcom · March 2004

I had friend return her passat that had been in two major accidents - it was parked both times and struck by big trucks - and had not been touched for months. The thing was a rolling pile of bird poop - literally it was covered stem to stern in bird droppings.

VW gave her back her whole deposit. LOL

Basically, it's a crapshoot when returning a lease. Some places kill ya, others will let everything slide.

The tire thing, I need to check on my car. I'd hate to have to return it with 3/4 of the tire wear left. Ouch. I'd go buy Kumho's for sure when doing that!

blueguydotcom · March 2004

I took 10 points off my money factor. The original lease deal I negotiated was .0013 or 14 - it's foggy less than a year later. I can't complain.

kyfdx · April 2004

LOL..blueguy.. I remember your lease deal!!

The money factor on your 330i was .0012.. and you lowered it by .0009 (the first deposit doesn't lower it, just the next nine) to get the .0003.

Actually the 330i in March had an MF of .0010 Even lower than yours. But the MSD program is not nearly as generous as it was last spring. The actual MF on the 325i is .00125 That .00165 was a marked up number. These are all March numbers.. The rumor I heard was they were definitely changing in April... with the convertible going way up.

regards,
kyfdx

blueguydotcom · April 2004

scary...i don't remember my own life that well but yet can remember arcane bits about movies and books.

kyfdx · April 2004

One other thing.. The good deals on BMW leases only extend out to 42 months. I really wouldn't consider leasing one for any longer than that. If you think you are going to keep leasing, stick to 36 months. This seems to be the best time of year to lease, and it will keep you on that schedule.

regards,
kyfdx

gordonwd · April 2004

>ky, I'm talking about EVERY car I've ever
>owned. I've never had one with tires that
>lasted over 20k miles - Nissans, Fords, VWs,
>Mazdas, BMW, you name it.

Remind me to never buy a used car from you :-).

kyfdx · April 2004

Silver gray 330i with performance package.. coming off lease in San Diego in May of '06. Stay far away.....LOL

blueguydotcom · April 2004

What am I supposed to do with it? Granny it? That's like dating Salma Hayek and just going to church picnics.

If it's an consulation - the interior and exterior are [non-permissible content removed] and span. The components will be nicely broken in by 2006.

shanster · April 2004

Hey gang, I am planning on buying my first BMW and am thinking about a 330xi (I want the all-wheel-drive). I plan on getting the Premium Pkg, Sport Pkg?, Cold Weather Pkg, Manual Trans(or Steptronic might be nice), Xenon lights.

But I have some questions if someone can help:

1. Is the 330xi a good car? Any pluses or minuses? Actually, I plan on test-driving next week, so I'm not sure which model I'll choose, but I would think I would want the extra power.

2. I would love a NAV system (saw/used one on my friend's Mini Cooper) - does it work well? Does anyone know if it is the same as that on the Mini?

3. Leasing vs. Buying - If I am going to drive the car alot for my work (starting a real-esate job), are there any advantages to either method?

Thanks for any help.

tomalexm · April 2004

So today si bought a 2000 328ci with 20k mi on it from carmax. Some problems though, even with the "125 pt. inspection". One question I have is about the remote locking. My 528i, with the same security system, beeps when you lock or unlock it. Is the 328 supposed to beep? Also, the red security light under the mirror doesn't blink. Any ideas??? Thanks.

shipo · April 2004

I assume the 2000 328ci has the same security system as my old 1999 328i, and if so, there is no actual alarm, and as such, it does not beep or blink by default. Your two options are to add the alarm (and its requisite programming) or have the blinking and beeping programmed by your dealer. Option two may not be possible depending upon the vintage of your car. I know that mine couldn't be programmed and that the 2001s can be programmed, so yours is a definite maybe, ask your dealer.

Best Regards,
Shipo

jean7of9 · April 2004

I am driving a 03 330xi since one year. With good winter tires it will drive you easy through the most unfavorable conditions. Last month, after a heavy snow storm , I drove 100km (60 miles) on icy country roads, not once I felt the car lost control. On wet or dry pavement the car is outstanding and fun to drive.
I also have the NAV System. It works and is precise most of the time. While BMW Nav System is less sophisticated than MB, Lexus or Infinity, it is still efficient as long as you are within map coverage. And a nice gadget if you can afford it.
Good Luck.

brislance1 · April 2004

Can a dealer program the clown nose on an 03 330i to blink when the car is locked even though there is no alarm? I thought I remembered reading a post some time ago that said it was possible.

Also, can the headlights be programed to blink when the doors are opened and locked using the remote?

What is the cost for an alarm w/installation by a dealer?

Thanks.

blueguydotcom · April 2004

Yes, you can get the programmed.

An alarm is only useful if its cost is outweighed by insurance savings. otherwise, an alarm safeguards nothing. it's all about the appearance of protection - the elctronic club that doesn't thwart any thief.

edh · April 2004

Consumer reports reliability charts show that the 3 takes hits on
"electrical"
'power equipment" ,
and in 96-98 "cooling'"
(as far as these being problem areas).

for those of you that have higher mileage 3's can you tell me what broke in these areas and how expensive to fix?

brislance1 · April 2004

Thanks for your response to my question on programing the clown nose to blink even though I have no alarm. I called my dealer today to get an appointment to do this task and also to program the front signal lights to blink when locking and unlocking. He told me they could not do this programing unless I have the alarm! What gives? Don't they know how to do this task or is it a case of not wanting to do it? Anyone else out there who has had this done?

kyfdx · April 2004

It could be either one.. Maybe they don't know.. or maybe they think they can sell you an alarm if they say they can't do it.

But, it can be done..... Unless 50 different people on this board and others are lying for no reason.

regards,
kyfdx

sapes · April 2004

Has anyone tried to use a bluetooth enabled cell phone? Does any enabled phone work, and if so, is the sound quality (Rx/Tx) good? Any issues?

muzzy325i · April 2004

I have a 01 325i (5SP) with 70K on it. I have had one issue with the car, seat belt in the b-pillar was "clicking", they fixed it under warranty. Only standard mainentence was done on the car according to the service indicator (and a run in with a curb that required the passenger side front rim and control arms to be replaced, my fault not BMW's). I have an 04 330i (Sport, SMG, NAV) on order that just got off the boat in NYC. Should have it in a week or so, and I expect the same reliablity, although the SMG is a wildcard.

BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

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