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Thanks for a reply so I can quit looking or try and figure out what's the problem with the key fob as all other functions on it work.
Sunny
Spencer
Thanks for your response.
Sunny
Did you not get 2 remotes with the car?
By the way, have you perchance heard of any gas pedal sticking problems with our 2004 Toyotas? Thanks for your reply.
Sunny
Thanks...Sunny
This morning, since we had a heavy snow storm here, I wanted to warm up the car so I started it and moved a little bit, for around 5 minutes. After half an hour I came back and the car was not cranking, nothing, it sounded like the battery died. I did jump it and started the car again.
Could that be an alternator problem or starter problem? or maybe the battery is not good. Could you please help?
Thank
http://sarasota.craigslist.org/cto/1706756916.html
Quick rundown is 99 solara. V6 model fully loaded w/leather and sunroof. 153k miles. Asking $4k.
Great news is it's the color I want and all the options. But the miles kind of scare me. Thoughts/opinions?
I have a 99 SLE V6 with 113,500 miles. For the first 11 years, I never did anything to it except replace an oxygen sensor and regular maintenance. Now I have just replaced AC as the clutch bearing was going bad and it was making a vibration noise. I also rebuilt the starter as it was beginning to require that I turn the key over several times before initiating. I also replaced the water pump and timing belt. The belt was due at 90K miles, but will likely go to 130,000 with no problems. That engine is non-interference type, so even if it broke it would damage the push rods.
These are things you can expect to go wrong after 11 years, so you need to know if they've been done on any car you want to buy. I had the alternator checked, and mechanic says it's probably good for another 25K- 50 K.
You need to know if the timing belt was changed and any other major repairs. The price seems about average from what I've seen advertised all over the net, however, I personally wouldn't pay more than $3500 with those miles, and then only if I knew the major things I mentioned have been done.
I just bought a new car, and my Solara will be going on sale soon, asking price $5250 OBO. These cars should go on and on with proper care, but one that hasn't had regular oil changes can get sludge that will block the oil passages. Toyota is supposed to replace the entire engine if this happens, but without records of proper oil changes, it may be difficult, so that's what you should consider also.
Does anyone know how to get access to the space below the parking brake? My wife dropped something of value to her and I cannot reach it by slipping my hand by the rubber gasket. Is there a way to get access?
Phil
ClaireS, Host
Automotive News & Views | Coupes & Convertibles
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I have a prob with the rear screen defroster, doesn't work correctly, I have been to the dealership but they couldn't find a problem and basically told me it would only work to thaw ice not clear a misted window!!! (of course it was summer when i took it in) Anyone else have a defroster problem???
I did not hear from a dealer until January 2011. By that time I had traded the car in. Really left a bad taste in my mouth and probably will not purchase a Toyota again. Roofie
One way to see if the motor was sludging would be to remove the oil filler cap, and look at the underside of that cap. It should be clean and free of carbon deposits or gooey substances. It also may be telling to use a flashlight to look into the valve cover through the opening for the oil filer cap; and see whether the metal surfaces are clean; or are either carbonized or coated with gooey sludge. If either the oil filler cap or the inside of the valve cover show these kinds of deposits; the motor is sludged. In addition; I absolutely would not buy this or any other used car without having it first inspected and evaluated by a competent, experienced, honest professional mechanic; or a AAA diagnostic center or equivalent. The used car market is full of reconstructed wrecks, and sloppily repaired damaged vehicles. You are swimming in shark infested waters when you buy a used car. Take this advice, and you won't regret it.
Regarding your late Sienna; it is highly unusual for a Sienna engine to fail at just over 100,000 miles. It may be that this engine was still good; but just had a problem which was not understood. If you post the symptoms which led to the conclusion that the vehicle died; and also tell me who made that determination; I'd appreciate a chance to respond.
The Carfax is nice to see; but I wound not take as a substitute for a mechanic's evaluation. Sometimes bad things can happen to a car since the last time it was serviced at a dealership. The $100 inspection fee is pretty standard for this sort of work.
Ask the mechanic to evaluate the color of the transmission fluid (which indicates the type of driving and maintenance a car has had) and similarly evaluate the condition of the coolant. Another way to get a sense of the engine's health is to remove several spark plugs and inspect them for excess carbon deposits or signs of oil consumption. A cylinder compression test would be even better for this purpose; but many mechanics would charge extra for this level of work. I would gladly pay extra if it was asked.
Please be aware that all too many mechanics just compare how even the compression pressure readings are in the cylinders, and pronounce the engine good if all the readings are similar. This is not a reliable way to evaluate a compression test: The vehicle manufacturer publishes a specification for the new and the minimum allowable compression pressure in this motor. The limits are different on different engine brands and models. Your mechanic should look up the specifications for the compression on this motor in a service manual BEFORE running a compression test. I have repeatedly seen mechanics pronounce a compression test result "good" when the numbers were actually below the minimum limit. I apologize in advance if he is offended by this request; but a truly knowledgeable mechanic will recognize the necessity of knowing the correct pressure specifications. The minimum allowable pressure should be somewhere between 150 and 170 psi; and the new pressure should be about 30 psi more than that. A really good motor should have close to new compression. The minimum limit is not a pressure I would like to have in a car I owned.
it's a 2001 with 128,000 miles - you aren't in the orlando area by chance? if you are, I would love to hire you to check out my potential cars! Thanks
The sludge issue on the Camry 3.0 liter engine began with the 2003 model year. At that time they redesigned the cylinder heads to use variable valve timing; and they also redesigned the coolant passages in the heads, so the engine would warm up faster, and thus produce fewer emissions during the warm up cycle. This revised coolant passage design turned out to produce hot spots in the heads; which cooked the oil that passed over those areas, and produced sludge. Some 2003 3.0 motors had variable valve timing; while some still used the older design cylinder heads, which did not have the revised coolant passages. But all Camrys from 2004 on were sludge prone.
So the 2001 model you're considering is unaffected by the sludge issue.
I have an `06 Solara Convertible. Been thinking a lot about whether to trade it in for something new or fix it up. Saw one all tricked out with XRS technology at a car show not long ago. Thought it was a cool idea.
So, am I nuts? Would rebuilding the engine, replacing the tranny and gearbox, rear end exhaust and suspension be a bad idea? Would it be, more expensive than buying something new that's made to be speedier?
I don't want to race, I just want a more enjoyable driving experience and I really love my Solara.
Please speak from experience and don't be shy.
Thanks,
Meegwell