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Comments
I believe that using a good synthetic oil will prevent sludge and varnish in a "sound" engine.
Although costly, at maybe $ 20 to $ 30 per oil change, depending on the application and brand name of the oil, it is still much cheaper than having to rebuild the engine.
If you want to be absolutely sure about the frequency of the oil changes that you should perform you might want to try analyzing the oil at varying intervals. I know, it is expensive with oil analyzing kits selling for $ 15 or $ 20 or more, BUT, you will be able to do a trend analysis and ascertain the exact oil change interval that is the optimum for your application.
After 2 or three analysis results you won't have to spend money for analyzing the oil any more since you will know how long the oil is going to hold up.
All of this will only make sense to people that keep their car for very long.
If you sell or trade your car every 3 or four years, do 3k miles oil changes or every three months with an inexpensive "dino" oil like Pennzoil, Castrol GTX or Chevron (all SL standard) and I sincerely doubt there will be any problems before well past 150K miles.
Also, if you have to change the oil every 3K miles to prevent sludge, and the car's maintenance schedule says 5-7.5K miles for an oil change (which most of the new ones do), then shoudln't the manufacturer replace the engine for free, considering you followed THEIR maintenance schedule for the car?
The 4 speed AT is very nice in acceleration, response, and fuel economy. Is the 4 AT worth the extra $$$?
Also, would you buy a NEW 2002 at 10% discount off MSRP or pay MSRP to get the 2003? I am considering an ECHO 4 door sedan for a 2nd vehicle as it is difficult for the wife and I to get by with only 1. The 2002 4 door ECHOs in stock have 5 Speed Manual, A/C, PS, All Weather Guard Package, and Sport Cladding. THANKS for your advice.
Disadvantage Auto: worse mileage, more difficult to control the car in slippery conditions, more expensive to repair than manual and fails sooner.
Advantage Manual: better mileage, better control of vehicle in adverse conditions, lasts longer.
Disadvantage Manual: may need clutch replaced, harder for older/injured people to operate, less common so less resale value
I don't consider myself manipulative and resent when people like yourself think they know the answer to every problem that happens to others! I have read many of your posts over the years and have always thought you to be a reasonable person but your last post really pissed me off!
You should really think before you type about subjects you know little about!
The Sandman :-(
Lost a lot of faith in Toyota at that point. Still have my '96 Corolla DX and my last Corolla I had for 10 years. Will try Honda with the next car though!
The Sandman :-)
So I drew two conclusions from this: 1)6k oil changes probably were not enough for this car 2) even with the sludge the car ran fine (wife took it to maine every years no problem.)
SOOOO... whats up with this mechanic telling you your car is no good I dont know. He MAY have been perfectly sincere (but wrong, as I see it from here without seeing the car) or he MAY have been secretly trying to get you to buy a new car. (buying tiresat sears a mechanic once told be my brake pads were worn out and the calipers were about to crash into the rotors. I told him Id let my mechanic look at it (ME, who just replaced the pads two weeks before) So these things happen. I THINK there was truly nothing wrong with your Toyota. I mentiond Steves Tacoma 87 with 124k on it, with MAYBE five oil changes in the trucks entire life. You wouldnt BELIEVE the sludge under the valve cover. Runs fine though he drives it every day. Not to mention the gas that has been dripping from the carb fuel line for six years he wont let me fix. Got to go here comes the boss...
My wife is the same - "greatly prefers automatic." The four speed Toyota automatics are very reliable, smooth, and reasonably fast.
Just picked up my new Echo today. it's a 2002 4 dr, white, automatic with power windows. Thus far I am amazed at how quiet it is, even at highway speeds.
We're in the middle of the rainy season here, and the initial problem I'm having is side windows not defogging in the rear seating area. That said, we're pretty much in the time of year when it can rain for a week nonstop. I'll see how it dries out in the next few days. It really could stand to be parked in a heated garage, just to dry it out a bit.
I got rid of a 91 festiva. I loved it, but it was at the age when I'd get one thing fixed and another would go.
I bought the automatic because I live in a hilly area and stop and go traffic. Snow happens only once or twice a year, so it's not really a concern.
I'll let you know how it goes.
btyvr
Our 2001 has 16,000 miles, the OEM Bridgestones are about 1/2 worn, the engine is sparkling clean inside with Mobil 1, and 39 MPG lifetime, including lots of A/C time here in LA.
My guess would be as a response to lawsuits and numerous complaints. Don't you think?
Toyota Motor Sales, (TMS) U.S.A., Inc., today announced a new customer satisfaction program for owners of 1997 through 2002 Toyota and Lexus vehicles equipped with 3.0 liter V6 or 2.2 liter 4-cylinder engines. Toyota is taking this action because a very small number of customers have reported engine damage from motor oil breakdown, also known as oil gelling or “sludging,” a result of oil change intervals delayed beyond the factory-recommended schedule. While any make vehicle can suffer from this condition if the oil is not changed often enough, Toyota has initiated this program to ensure owner peace of mind.
http://pressroom.toyota.com/photo_library/display_release.html?id=20020403
I would note however that Toyota is NOT paying for this program. Theyre going to charge more for their cars to pay for it. So is there any merit to these claims that we the consumers are going to be paying for? What exactly is this engine dammage the owners are talking about? This thing would seem to indicate that 6 and 10k mile oil changes are not wise. But if you change the oil at 3k miles and you still get sludge and the engine runs fine, what exactly is the problem?
All I can think of when I hear this is what happened at the sales counter at Sears a few years ago. The guy ahead of me had an old hedge trimmer. I mean this thing was 20 years old and completely worn out. It looked like it was dragged behind a pickup truck for 100 miles. He wanted his money back because it didnt work. Duh! And he badgered the clerk until he got it! I said to the clerk why did you give that guy his money back? The clerk said "If you complain loud and long enough, youll get your money back" And I said "You mean Sears will chage ME more to pay for doing that!" and the clerk said "RIGHT!"
The Sandman :-)
With the modern oil technology a reguirement to change oil every 3,000 miles in order to avoid sludge formation is unacceptable and would indicate an engine design defect.
Do you know any other make having the same problem?
My feeling on the sludge issue is that frequent oil changes (3k) will lessen it. The extended intervals (7 to 10k) is probably going to result in some formation, even if the car is driven long distances, the most mild of conditions. BUT IMHO the formation of sludge in moderation at least is not going to hurt anything. Why Toyota and Honda etc specify thse long intervals is beyond me. Perhaps consumers who are charged $25 for an oil change would baulk at the expence of 3k changes. (thats almost $700 over 100k miles) And there is competition to have the most maintainance free car. I will always change my own oil four times a year. At $7-8 a change its cheap insurance, while posssibly not actually required.
Sort of makes the supposed "sludge" problem in some Toyota engines a moot point.
I never felt like the car was unstable at speed even before upgrading wheels and tires. I drive to Vegas from LA once a month to visit family and have no problem cruising at 80-85mph. It gets a little twitchy around 90mph but is amazingly quiet at speed.
seems like the 15" wheel option on the echo is well worth it.
As for the 15" wheels, make sure that your tires are 205's and not 195's. The 205's give you a wider footprint and more traction on dry pavement.
I would also add that they increase the risk of hydroplaning on wet surfaces. They will also make the car handle far worse in snow. And their increased weight will cause increased wear on the already lightweight parts of the ECHOs suspension and transmission. Something to think about.
I saw a pic of an 03 ECHO in a new-car price book the other day, and it had fog lights on the front. Looked pretty neat actually.
I would consider an ECHO in a second if I didn't drive highways all the time where the speed limit seems to be 75 or more (Capital Beltway in MD/DC). They are a very practical, spacious car. And I even think the styling is pretty cool as well.
I do have a problem with these tires: I take corners way too fast now and all my stuff goes flying around in the car!
I wish my ECHO did as well in snow as the 93 Saturn my wife is driving now. Boy that car does GREAT in snow and with cheapo Pep Boys tires too. My ECHO wants to swap ends kind of like the old beetle. (but without the traction of the beetle) I have Potenzas on it now. Im wondering if anyone has any good things to say about their tires in snow?