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Comments
Using premium in a car such as the Echo that doesn't require it not only causes carbon build-up, but it's a waste of money.
Hope this helps.
By the way, my sister went over a pothole and her car started making click-clack noises at lower speeds. Because her Echo is still under warranty, she took it into the local Toyota dealer and they replaced her crossbar and did other minor adjustments free of charge. Echo is like a brand new car again! Warning: Beware of potholes.
Goods and Services Tax is 7%
Too bad, because I always wanted an Acura 1.7EL... (kidding)..
I would agree on the emissions part...
I love my ECHO too aeroterremer, but a diesel hatchback version would be awefully tempting...
IIRC, VW is the only US manufacturer to offer diesel engines in passenger cars, for now anyway. That's gonna change soon with the introduction of an MB diesel, from what I read in AutoWorld.
The second issue is (are?) rattles. There were absolutely no rattles when I test drove the Echo I ended up buying. A rattle did develop around the dash (I thought) and I was ready to return to the dealer when I realized that the rattle was coming from the water bottle rubbing against the cup holder. I think some rattles are from the things that end up filling our car. If you develop a rattle, remove the "junk" from your car and see if the rattle is still there.
The third issue is something I read in Click and Clack's column yesterday. A lady had an Avalon with 55,000 miles and something went out dealing with the suspension (shock and struts, I think). The dealer told her that it would cost $1,600.00 to fix. She wondered if the part should have failed so early. In their answer, Click and Clack stated that all Toyotas were made the same way and this part usually failed around 75,000 to 80,000 miles. Does anyone know if the backend of the Echo is made the same way as the Avalon and if we are going to be facing such a large repair bill when the part on our cars go.
It is a beautiful day here and I wish I was in my Echo, but I have to work. Talk to you later.
As far as rattles I still have my lock buttons rattle in their housings but that's it. It doesn't happen when it's hot out because the plastic expands enough to make them snug. I've been too lazy to get them fixed. The only other sound I've had is a creak from the rear seat latch.
It's funny how you mention the rear suspension because I've noticed that my rear bottoms out easier-low profile tires make it easier for this to happen anyway. I'm hoping it's just a matter of getting some better shocks.
43k miles on my '01 so far!
A week or so ago we got some comment from an Echo owner about his engine being subpar after only 20 some thousand miles of spirited driving. Which meant downshifting for braking, and also revving to 5000 rpms regularly. I downshift my Echo for braking all the time, as well as my other Toyotas of the past, all standard transmission vehicles. With no ill effects. I rev my Echo less frequently now than when it was younger, but still hit 5000 frequently in passing situations, using 3rd gear if there is any need to rush. I am at 74K miles on my Echo now. Runs great.
Any thoughts of comments?
IF YOU REPLACE YOUR STRUTS/SHOCKS OR MUFFLER SYSTEM AT A TOYOTA DEALER THESE PARTS ARE COVERED WITH A LIFETIME WARRANTY INCLUDING LABOR ACCRODING TO MY OWNERS MANUAL. DO NOT GO TO MIDAS TO GET MUFFLER WORK DONE. SUPREAM RIPOFF. YOU NEVER SEE ANY CARS IN THE PARKING LOT AT MIDAS,
X-One or Michelin Harmony. Any comments about these tires?
How many miles have other owners driven their original Potenzas?
I had my brakes inspected at 30000 and I still had 70% left on the front pads and 80% on the rear drums. Is this unusual?
When do shocks need to be replaced? Any comments will be appreciated.
So you see, your experience is not unusual at all.
Unless your car is fully loaded all the time shocks can easily go to the 100k mark.
...As far as tires, I went to 41,000 on my original Potenzas, but never was very happy with the tires. However I bought replacement Potenzas thereafter which are excellent, and still on my Echo. Wet weather traction is great. Same name, but different category of tire, and much superior to the originals. These are type RE930i, and and Size 185/60 R14.
....Dealer said my brakes were 70%, 75%, front and rear (at 60k miles).
In their response about repair rates, Click and Clack used the word Toyotas and not the word Avalons. This led me to wonder if all Toyotas are made like this and if we will face a similarly large repair bill.
I am thinking about what tires to put on the Echo. Do I put on a new set of Goodyears or go with a different tire? Based on a write up in Consumer Reports, I am thinking about going to Dunlop SP Sport A2s. They rate them slightly better than the Michelin Energy MXV4 and they are $50 a tire cheaper ($70 versus $120). The Dunlop rated excellent in both dry and wet braking; very good in handling, hydroplaning, and ice braking; while rated good in snow traction.
The Dunlop has only good rolling resistance while the Michelin has excellent rolling resistance as do the tires presently on my Echo. What will be the effect of not having as good of rolling resistance? Will only my fuel economy suffer? And if so, by how much?
My Yokohama YK420's are very grippy but a little noisy on concrete. They have good grip in packed snow but haven't really had the chance to drive much in slush.
There was a Kumho tire listed on tirerack that had rave reviews for grip in snow and are only $35~!!!
Thanks for the reply, wrgraham!
Seems with the warmer weather, though, a lot of the "rattles" went away. Clearly an expansion/contraction issue.
Also, I don't think anyone answered my question about rolling resistance. If I go to the Dunlops, which does not have as good of rolling resistance, what kind of drop in fuel economy can I expect?
if a tire lasts twice as long, then you're way ahead even if you pay a few dollars more.
and how can you calculate safety? if a tires make you car handle better and makes your car more fun to drive... isn't that worth something?
if due to better handling you avoid an accident, isn't that worth something also?
888-MICHELIN
Their wesite is www.michelinman.com
Any thoughts of comments?
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/NCAP/Cars.cfm
But I can imagine what horrible things would happen if the crash you are (hopefully NOT) involved is with a Ford Expedition, Chev Suburban or similar.
If safety is the most important factor on your shopping list buy a Volvo or Mercedes.
If cost is a very important factor, buy a used Camry for the same amount you would spend on the Echo.