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Comments
i turn it on and sometimes it works and other times
it doesn't. when it is working, it makes a clicking
sound. i tried to remove the blower and found a plastic
housing around it preventing access. i tried to find
a way to remove the plastic housing but all the screws
i took out did not help to move it. any suggestions?
remove glove compartment door
remove ECU the (computer)
disconnect connectors and two bolts
remove ECU
two way heater flow models (double fan one on top of the other)
disconnect control link
disconnect connectors
disconnect connector clamps
disconnect wiring harness clamps
remove the screw
remove the claw and remove the air duct
remove blower motor
disconnect the connector
remove 3 screws and the blower motor.
they further say to hook the terminals on the blower/fan assembly to a battery to test the blower.
god luck! tell us what happens!
I am looking for a tachometer for my 2001 echo, i got sunpro but was told by the dealer that it is not compatible, would something like Equus work? Thanks
you referred to? my echo has 208,000 miles.
a service manual would help for future reference.
Did you fix the blower?
Also, after 208k miles, what things have (or havnt) been replaced on your ECHO? It would be very interesting to know!
Yeah, what major repairs have you had? Or minor repairs?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
[see message #4056]
I was going to wait until I hit 200k, but I'm almost there so here's my status report
Currently, I have 191k miles on the car. It has been mostly trouble free. I don't drive for a job, so its mostly job commuting time and vacation trips.
Troubles?
1) Cracked windshield. - stress crack
2) Trouble with the ECU. Mine is a very early model Echo and had the 1st generation ECU which kept throwing random misfire codes. Used the service manual to exhaust almost every possibility regarding misfires (I do all my own work; it helps me learn, and besides - I'm too cheap to let a shop work on it *pfft*) So, in exasperation, I subscribe to alldata tsbs hoping for - well, anything. They mention a problem with the 2nd generation ECU causing misfire codes.... AHA, I thought. Picked up a 3rd gen ECU from eBay for $25; problem gone.
3) As previously reported, tailpipe has recently started to rust through. No aftermarket part yet, and Toyota wants almost $900 for the part.
4) MAF problems that everyone else has since experienced. 5 minutes to clean it; good as new.
5) minor: Tape deck on OEM unit wore out. Replaced under warranty 1x, the 2nd unit wore out within a year. Replaced with an aftermarket unit.
5) minor: Multiple console lights have burned out.
I will have to say, for an econobox, this is an incredibly durable car. It is on its 4th hood. 2 deers, and some jerk in an SUV making a left through a red light... Had to replace the radiator after the 2nd deer, but the car keeps on running strong! It doesn't burn or leak any oil yet, and the transmission still feels strong (automatic).
Random thoughts:
Replace pcv, filters, fluids, and belts on schedule; brakes when needed, and the car will last a long time.
LOVE the center dash console. Once you get used to it, you will NEVER want the speedo cluster under the steering wheel again.
As I seem to spend an inordinate amount of time behind the wheel, I can say the seats are very well designed. Either that, or they just got lucky. Spend 10-12 hours driving in some cars and even my strong back can feel tired. But the Echo seats seem to have support in the right place.
Hopefully - - - See you at the next 100k!
RJ
How long did your belts last?
" " " " pcv "
" " " " rear brakes "
When you say tailpipe do you mean the exhaust pipe?
I agree this is one well built car. Keep the maintenance up and it going to last a LONG time.
PCV should be changed yearly / maybe every other year; its a standard maintenance tune up item. Good rule of thumb, change your plugs - change your pcv. Although you can check them for blockage, they are cheap enough to just change...
Rear brakes have only been changed once; last check was at 180k and they were still fine.
Also replaced the struts around 180k (although there was still had some life left on the old ones).
And yes, by tailpipe, I meant exhaust pipe. On the echo, its 1 long piece, including the catalytic converter. (The muffler is seperate, though).
After 5 years nothing has worn out on my ECHO. I expect the first thing to go will be the battery. Then the muffler and belts followed closely by the brake pads/shoes. Im hoping to go 10 years and 60k miles just doing the battery and belts.
Say did you ever have your valves adjusted?
I did learn that the gas warning light starts to blink at around 2 gallons remaining, and that the bottom hash of the fuel gauge represents around 1.5 gallons remaining. Good to know.
I will do a few more tanks to get a solid mpg average, and then decide if I want to risk reducing it by putting on bigger tires. Since high fuel economy is one of the main reasons I bought this car, I don't want to toss that advantage out the window just for slightly better cornering and high speed stability.
I am surprised to hear the above poster didn't replace the original struts until 180K miles. I would probably do them before then just because it is hard to detect them wearing out, if you are the one driving the car every day.
Is this car supposed to have regular valve adjustments?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Now for the good news. Once the adjustment is set in this system, it tends to stay set. My Honda ST1100 stayed in adjustment for hundreds of thousands of miles and thats a high performance motorcycle. (and the ECHOs engine is a high performance car engine!) Also, it isnt hard to CHECK the adjustment. Its about as difficult as replacing the sparkplugs. A little more involved but nothing you couldnt handle. Furthermore, the range of permissible clearance is fairly wide. And even if the clearance gets a little loose it probably wont hurt anything. If the clearances get tight however, you could burn the valve faces. Thats the downside.
So what should ECHO owners be doing? Well, at 60k miles the clearances should be checked. They will probably be fine. Even if they are a little on the loose side, that isnt a problem. The problem will be if they are tight. I mean REALLY tight. Its probably a good idea to be talking with your Toyota dealer to find out if they are able to do this adjustment. Its possible there are independed machanics who could do it, but rememeber this is NOT a typical car engine. But you need to find someone who does this as a regular thing and can prove it.
I will be checking mine in another five years and try to find someone I think can do it if they need adjusting.
So, should I sell this vehicle or keep it? How much is it worth..runs like a scalded dog [100 mph going UPHILL on an unnamed eastern mtn. freeway] and smooth as a bay's butt @ 70-75 mph.....?
Thanks,
Don Gillespie
ATL,GA
As for keeping or selling, it comes down to whether or not you have any other cars of your own. If I had a "company car", I would still keep my own car on the side, but that's just me. I drive a lot and usually have two. You have to bear in mind, though, that if you keep it you will pay several hundred dollars a year in insurance and reg, a little bit of maintenance, etc.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Thanks,
Don
ATL, GA
Note: Blue Book for a 2000 ECHO in excellent condition with 28k miles, ac, and auto transmission in the Philadelphia area is $6500.
Theres a much better market for the Civic than there is for the ECHO!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I was pleased, although of course my running average is only 39. All this driving has been in town, no hiway trips or anything, so the car is delivering on the FE I bought it for.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
i change the brake pads each year myself.
my knowledge of cars and mechanics in general
is very limited. basically, when there is a
problem, i attempt to correct it myself. if
i can't understand the problem, i ask a friend,
a co-worker or recently the internet. if all else
fails, i go to a mechanic. i had bad experiences
with mechanics untill i met this fellow. he doesn't
take advantage of my "mechanical disabilty" (ha)
the biggest problem i had since i bought my ECHO
was the a/c. it worked but never cold.
in 3 years i needed a new compressor. it is the
size of a 2 liter coke. it holds approx. .6lbs
of freon because it is so small. that is why the
a/c is only cool at best. the machamic who replaced
it overfilled it with refrigerant. last summer it was
very cold in the cab. i had a nice summer. i haven't
been able to fix my blower because i can't take out
the white plastic housing behind the glove compartment
that will access the blower. i took out every screw i
saw with no luck. i guess this one needs a mechanic.
so far, this is the best car i have ever owned.
i want to change the spark plug wires but i wonder about
the way it is taped around a plastic coil. i changed
the plugs with busch plugs, 1 plug died and the
"check engine" light appeared. that led to replacing the
catalytic converter at a cost of $700. struts were $370.
i changed them after 200,000 miles of driving. WHAT A CAR!
The manual says you have to remove the computer after you remove the glove compartment door. Did you get the computer out?
Thanks,
Don
On the way back, I drove halfway with the A/C running, and often at speeds over 80, and only managed about 40 mpg, so the A/C and high speeds definitely have an impact on the FE. I know, I know, DUH! Right? I was a little surprised at just how much it impacted it. I will have to figure out if it is the high speeds or the A/C that really knocks down the FE in this car. Additional future testing! :-)
More than one reviewer knocked this car for poor long-distance comfort and support from the seats, but I found it to be more comfortable than a number of other cars I have had, even after six hours at a stretch.
It was 88 degrees where I was at yesterday, and the A/C performed like a champ. Quick to cool the car (which is pretty small after all), and very good at maintaining the temp once achieved.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I have not experienced problems with the AC cooling the car as others have, although the air coming out of the vents is not as cold as some cars I have driven. I suspect these problems result from not putting the air lever on recirculation.
Although I weigh 250 pounds I am very comfortable driving my ECHO even on long trips. No problems there at all. Additionally, because it sits so high, getting in and out of the car is easy too. Its easier than getting onto and out of my wifes 2005 Camry and thats a BIG car.
:-P
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Many dealers will just tell you they don't want a trade-in in that condition, but may take it off your hands for free as a favor for buying a car from them.
Can't you get it fixed? Was the person who hit you uninsured?
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Unfortunately, the person who hit me was uninsured and unlicensed.
I wonder if I can get anything for it at an auto dismantler...
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
the part. i used my wife's compact case mirror to look under the dashboard. the
mirror and the light reflected from a flashlight revealed 2 screws far in
the back holding the plastic cover containing the motor
in place. thanks for the help. without it i could not
have removed the motor. the service manual was correct,
however, i don't know why it did not mention the screws.
by the way, what is a claw? the service manual and recall
bulletin mention removing a claw to access the motor. but
i never found it. the idea of using a mirror came from a
good friend with mechanic skills
if i had one. it does not, however, provide all the
answers. i wonder if the dealer works from the same
poorly translated service manual as we are forced
to use? there is also a list of recall bulletins found
in chilton's repair manual online. the one i found
is accessed, i think, through ebsco host on my local
public library's website. i found that information
helpful also. thanks. keep this forum going. its great.
Thanks
Larry
John
Is this normal and is there a way to adjust it for the use of a bit more break before it tries to "Help me"?
Thanks,
John
http://www.msnusers.com/Sorensonbrian/yourwebpage.msnw
Handy stuff.
John
Thanks again
Larry
Thanks again
Larry
how can i change the drive belt?
how can i remove the power steering belt?
thanks,
There are two bolts which are loosened to remove and install the alternator belt. One is fairly obvious and it moves in a curved slot to make the adjustment. There is another one which is part of a bracket to actually hold the alternator on. When you get these both loose, shove the alternator towards the BACK of the car. This will give you enough slack to remove the belt.
With the alternator belt off you can remove the powersteering belt. It may help to remove the right wheel so you have more room to work/see. Be sure to use a jack stand to hold the car securely if you do this. PLEASE dont work under the car with just a jack holding it up! Make sure you know how to get the car on the jackstand properly! You could get killed. There are also two bolts to loosen to move the PS pump so the belt can be removed. There are four "holes" in the face of the pulley. One of these bolts is accessed through one of these holes. You might have to bump the engine around to do this with the starter. (make sure the engine is in PARK or neutral!) There is another bolt to be loosened which is ABOVE the pulley almost directly above the one you get at through the pulley. IGNORE the bolt to the RIGHT of the pulley as you face it. Once the bolts are loose you can shove the PS pump towards the FRONT of the car to looosen the tension on the belt.
Put the new ps pump belt on first. Tighten the two bolts sort of tight but not all the way. Then move the ps pump to the BACK of the car to tighten it. Then fully tighten the two bolts. The same idea works to get the new alternator/water pump belt on. You want the belts fairly tight. Check the tightness of the belts after about an hour of use. They may need tightening.
Good Luck and BE CAREFULL if you work without the right front tire on. It might be possible to put the car up on ramps if you dont want to remove the tire. If you do make good and sure it is steady up on the ramps!