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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Sedans



  • mbdrivermbdriver Posts: 426
    I also have a 2000 E320 and use the downshift feature regularly. Occasionally I've experienced a slight delay when downshifting from 3 to 2, but nothing major. Perhaps it's the sensors determining if the engine speed is too high before "authorizing" the downshift. But I've never experienced a situation where I downshifted from 3rd and it did not "take." BTW, I sort of "slap" or move the gearshift knob to the left with gusto when downshifting, and I've learned to count how many time I move it, to avoid a sudden lurch when I inadvertently go all the way down to 1st gear.

    Hope this helps.
  • Thanks for the information. It's interesting that apparently if you don't use autologin, you must re-login EACH TIME you want to view a profile.
    Anyway, at least now I know what's going on.
  • 2ndmb2ndmb Posts: 72
    Has anyone tried the K&N air filter on their E. If so, could you determine if the performance or gas mileage improved.
  • varigvarig Posts: 99
    I was given a great website to visit.
  • If you read through previous posts you will find that the K&N filters are not recommended due to the larger particles that pass through as compared to the MB filters.
  • jfz219jfz219 Posts: 63
    I have seen several discussions on handling upgrades. My MY 2000 E320 has the MXV4s. The ride is smooth and quiet, acceptable in rain, and poor in snow. Because the car is leased, I have not made any modifications to the car.

    My biggest disappointment in the handling was the effects of strong cross winds at highway speeds. I find that I have solved most of the problem by experimenting with tire pressures. I have found the best compromise in ride and handling with 32psi in the front and 34psi for the rear.
  • Does anyone know if the seats will be changed on the new 2003 E class?

    I think most of us agree that the current seats are OK at best.

    The best seat I have I have tried in a new car is the Volvo S-80. I have a 2001 E320 and I love the car but I have had better seats in past Mercedes. Any thoughts?
  • mbdrivermbdriver Posts: 426
    fishxprt - A friend of mine recently intended to buy a 2002 E320. He's about 6' 3" or 6" 4" tall and 215 lbs., and he spent almost an hour in the driver's seat trying to get comfortable. That was the day he returned to the dealer and intended to complete the purchase. But he really disliked the seats -- so much that the following day he bought a BMW 530i. He's perfectly happy now.

    I love my E320 and have no complaints about the seats. But I'm 5' 10" and 175 lbs. My wife is 5' 3' and 110 lbs., and she, too, likes the seats. Maybe it's a function of size and weight. I know that people report that MB seats are harder than most, but owners also say they arrive refreshed after long drives in a Mercedes.
  • bigrobnhbigrobnh Posts: 114
    I'm a tad heavier than mbdriver but I have no issues whatsoever with the comfort of my seats. Other than no lumbar control they are, essentially, infinitely adjustable. They aren't exactly like a pillow-top cushion but they aren't too firm for me either. Part of the secret may be finding the correct seat angle, seat back, head rest position, etc parameters for you.

    The active ventilated seats were great this summer. Now that winter is closing in the heated leather is awesome as well.

  • It seems the seats are fine for small folks. My wife and I are both 5'5". We have a '98 and an '01 E320. The seats on the 01 are higher and more comfortable than on the '98.
  • When I bought my 96E (2 years old) I also complained to the salesman about the seats and the lack of good lumbar support. He stated that his experience was that most owners thought the seats were comfortable on long trips. I'm not small (6'3" and 250) but I have to admit that although I would prefer to be able to increase the lumbar support a little, the seats are actually very comfortable for me. And I've taken a couple of long trips (2500, 3500, and 5300 miles) in it and find that I'm not tired at the end of a 550 mile day.

    The most supportive and comfortable seats I've come across were in a 1988 MX-6 Mazda I owned that were not power but had 8 different adjustments. Took a 3000 mile trip in 7 days with stretches of 4 hours at a time without a break and never felt the least bit tired. Those seats were relatively firm also like in the E. My wife says they were HARD..! I've also owned cars with soft seats and found them to be tiring and to create aches..
  • valueguyvalueguy Posts: 208
    I have a '00E430 and I just realized my battery is under the rear seat. How long is the battery life? Should I replace my battery after so many years just in case? After all, getting a boost does not seem very easy on this car. Also, where exactly is the battery located and how do I access it? Thanks.
  • The owner's manual shows how to get to the battery. Also, on the '02s there are terminals under the hood for jump starting your car or another car. I assume the '00 would be the same.
  • mbdrivermbdriver Posts: 426
    valueguy - I have a 2000 E320 and discovered the same. But the owner's manual says there are + and - "posts" under the hood for jump starts, so there's no need to access the battery. The positive post is clearly marked, and all you need for the negative is another metal surface (I think).

    However, a mechanic friend advised not to fool with trying a jump start another carb because of all the computer systems associated with the 2000 MB and the possibility of inadvertently "frying" them. If you ever need a jump, the smart thing is to call Mercedes-Benz Roadside Assistance, available for zip for the life of any MB automobile.

    One last point -- your warranty is good for four years/50,000 miles, and I'd be surprised if the battery isn't included. Don't replace a battery based on timing. Personally, I don't plan on ever looking at my own battery.

    Hope this helps.
  • valueguyvalueguy Posts: 208
    I read the owner's manual and appreciate MB driver's input. Does anyone have any personal experience with a dead battery on their M-B?
    How long can I expect the battery to last?
    In my opinion, a "scheduled" battery change at 4 years is a lot better than an unplanned, emergent one especially in this car.
  • cce182cce182 Posts: 40
    My 2000 E430W4 has the dedicated battery "plus" lug under the hood, and also has a dedicated "minus" lug on the top of the left fender just in front of the air seal between the front and rear of the engine compartment. I suspect the design of M-B's have had this for a long time on any car with the battery not in the engine compartment. My old '79 Audi 5000 had the battery in the same place. It looks like a teutonic idea!

    I'm surprised that more of you haven't read the owners manual on this subject. Nighttime, under the hood, in a blizzard, seems sort of a bad learning environment.

    BTW, my car, at least, has one honkin' big battery back there. I've never seen one this big at Sears or the Pep Boys. I'm not even sure one technician could pick it up!

    Translated: Any preemptive replacement of the battery before it's really used up is going to cost more than the $69.95 you'd pay Sears to replace the battery in your Kia.

    To the issue of battery life - - remember that the battery is there to start the car, intermittently provide an additional source of power (for such things as window defoggers and heated seats) when the engine is idling, and as an electrical "voltage-variation absorber" for impulses or other glitches in the electrical system. When the engine gets over idle, the alternator is what supplies the power. So, battery life is somewhat dependent on what kind of driving you do - long road episodes at highway speeds that keep the battery charged, or 2 mile errands with the bun warmers on because the heater hasn't come up to speed yet. Battery life, like your mileage, will vary.

    In terms of access, I'd check your owners manual and would suggest taking a look FYI since there are fuses under there, too. There are several locations for fuses in the car, and it makes sense to know where they all are in case you're in too much of a hurry to wait for M-B roadside service.

    I'd not be worried about jump-starting the car as long as you don't inadvertently reverse polarity between the jump-ee and the jump-or.
  • I had to replace my battery on my 97 E320 with 47K miles, just last month. Could not find one anywhere like Pep Boys or K-Mart. Dealership changed out for rediculous price of $180.00. According to the dealer it included a diagnostics check on the electrical wiring/components and the computer, and the resetting of something or another. Like I said earlier in these postings, "If you cannot afford the maintenance costs, Do not get a Mercedes".
  • cduongcduong Posts: 70
    Normal battery would last 5 years... I just replaced mine (1996 E-320), bought it at an Interstate battery distributor, best battery, it took 15 minutes to put in. No sweat.
  • cduongcduong Posts: 70
    Anybody knows what type that they use at the dealer? Can you find after-market coolant for MB? Thanks
  • mbdrivermbdriver Posts: 426
    When changing out a battery, it's probably prudent to check the electrical and charging system, particularly if the battery went dead before its warranty period expired. I recently had to get a new battery for my wife's '77 MB 300D. Went to my local independent foreign car service center (owner was a master MB technician and later the service manager at a local MB dealer).

    They found that they had to replace the alternator, which was barely charging the battery. They were amazed to find that the original alternator was on the car (96,0000+ miles). Had I merely replaced the battery, it would soon have been discharged because of the bad alternator.
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