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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Sedans

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Comments

  • bmms8bmms8 Posts: 86
    i was wondering if any any one had found any new info on the 2003 E. plz leave a web adress
  • merc1merc1 Posts: 6,081
    Ok you high-level Benz experts: Is all of this going to happen for 2003 in the U.S?

    A new E-Class.
    A facelifted S-Class.
    New C240 and C320 Coupes.
    A new CLK.
    4Matic available on the C240, C320 Sedans and Coupes, S430 and S500.
    A SL55 AMG and a SL600 with more power than the current S600 V12's 367 hp.
    A CL-Class facelift.
    New S55 and CL55 models with the same 469hp as the SL55.

    Mercedes used to introduce a new car every couple of years, now they're doing a new model EVERY year. I have never seen this many new Benzes in one year (for 2003).

    Oh and I forgot the Maybach. Does anyone know of a dealer that has signed up to sell these?

    M
  • john01john01 Posts: 246
    I stopped by one of the MB dealers today and was told that the next Sat. is the formal introduction of the new E in Germany. We are planning on going checking out the new car.
  • bmms8bmms8 Posts: 86
    i dont thik it is gonna happen buddy. mb cant do all that for one year. the only 2 new things im aware of is the clk, and e. i dont thik they will do any other BIG changes on the other models
  • valueguyvalueguy Posts: 208
    I am pretty sure this car will be available sometime later this or January '03. Car and Driver test drove the SL55 with 476HP and stated the car was awesome.

    I am not sure when the E55 will arrive. My guess is Nov/Dec of '02. The new CLK55 is going to get a 376HP v-8 engine and is expected late '02 as an '03 model. I am hoping the E55 gets the 476HP engine and not the 376HP version. M-B is waiting to see if BMW puts the rumored 500 HP engine in the '03/'04 M5. If BMW decides to use that engine M-B will probably use the SL55 engine in the new E55.
    The standard CLK coupe should be for sale 08/02. The new convertible should be ready Feb. 2003.

    The new '03 540 is expected to have 326-333HP so M-B upgraded the standard E V-8 to the 5 liter 302HP engine.
  • vs4vs4 Posts: 70
    Hello All,

    I am interested to get the windows tinted on my E430. Could some one tell me a shop(s) who does window tinting, who they have used in the past and liked them or have heard good things about a specifc shop. I will prefer shops close to Bellevue, WA or Seattle, WA area.

    The colour of my Mercedes is Brilliant Silver so advice me on the tint shade and quality of the Film.

    Thanks in advance.
  • livetodrivelivetodrive Posts: 104
    There have been a number of posts on this board window tinting. Many people have reported scratches to the film due to the tight fit of the window against the seal.
  • wnielwniel Posts: 97
    I can guarantee you that you will get small vertical scratches on the tint because of the close tolerance of the window against the rubber/felt seal. Having said that, I have a 2000 E430 that I had tinted when I first took delivery of the car. The scratches are not visible from the outside and the tinting IMHO is a great appearance addition, plus the practical application of virtually eliminating the ultra-violet rays. I used the very light charcoal color on my Brilliant Silver and it looks great. On the back window I used the dark charcoal. One word of caution, don't use the metal pigmented material on the back window or else the AM radio reception will be nearly non existent. The tint will not be as durable but I have had mine for nearly two years now and it shows no signs of wear.
    I hope that this helps.
    Wally
  • leo23leo23 Posts: 4
    My silver gray MB 320E (01) which I bought in June and has less than 8000 miles on it. Here are several problems I seek your advice on:

    1. I just noticed a small chip (1/8") on the hood-- What to do? Get a touch-up stick and do it myself? Might it have been due to a manufactory's defect, hence covered by the warranty?

    2. The body close to the headlight has 2 very small mall dents, probably someone bumped me in a parking lot? Any idea as to how much that sort of repair would run?

    3. I am thinking of having the MB phone installed, which I presume comes as part of a package that includes a CD player. Can the phone be used as a portable cellular as well? Any experience as far as costs; can one dicker with the dealer?

    4. When I down-grade the manual gear, from D down to 2nd, I often experience a surge, which makes the car move faster.. even if I first press "decelerate" while in the cruise-control mode. Is this a defect in my particular car or is it a general thing?

    Any and all help with the above will be most appreciated.

    Thanks.

    Leo
  • cmayercmayer Posts: 38
    My '98 E300 has some bubbling just to the right and below the trunk lockset (my right as I'm looking at it.)

    I recall a similar post from another owner - I took a quick look at the archive posts, but it's dark and dusty down there and I didn't see it.

    Does somebody out there share this problem?
  • pecclespeccles Posts: 52
    www.autoweek.com has a cover story on the '03 E-class.
    Still no info if MB will be generous enough to offer a standard
    CD player for your $50K
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    My suggestion on #2 is take the car to a paintless dent removal shop. In the DC area, I've been to Dent Wizard several times over the past 5-6 years and they always managed to get the dings out to my full satisfaction. Several were in places that I didn't think they could reach with their tools, but they managed. Usually, the price for a small ding is about $80. For what you describe, I would guess $150.

    Good luck.
  • microrepairmicrorepair Eastern MassachusettsPosts: 508
    Yes, the plastic cover running down the middle of the block needs to be removed to gain access the wires and plugs. But no special tools are needed , just an extension shaft for the socket to reach down into the hole. And then a pair of needle nose pliers to reach into the hole to extract the plug after it is unscrewed.
  • EdsotoEdsoto Posts: 42
    Any suggestions on where I could find the actual invoice price? Edmunds & KBB come up differently.

    Thanks...

    Ed
  • waltowalto Posts: 34
    Spark plugs should be removed and replaced carefully. Two issues that I did not see in previous posts: anti-seize and correct torque. A small, carefully applied quantity of high-temperature anti-seize comound should be applied to the plug threads. And a torque wrench should be used to apply correct torque in installing the new plugs. Both of these are important because the cylinder heads are aluminum. The threads in the heads can be easily damaged. If you are not familiar with these procedures, I would let an experienced mechanic do the job.
  • cduongcduong Posts: 70
    Thanks for all replies. Any body uses platnium plugs and observes benefits? THANKS AGAIN
  • valueguyvalueguy Posts: 208
    Check out Edmunds' review of the all new "E".
    The car looks like a winner provided M-B upgrades the quality with the new sheet metal. The new E must be the leader in its segment if M-B is going to maintain sales in this market-place.

    Still, all that new technology makes me very weary of purchasing an '03 model. Perhaps, an '05 model without any "bugs" and improved knobs for the climate control (see SL Review by Car and Driver) is worth waiting for. Especially, if I get the 476HP version.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    The review valueguy mentions can be found by accessing the "Helpful Link" on the left side of this page.

    Pat
    Host
    Sedans Message Board
  • r1_97r1_97 Posts: 181
    My one year ownership is almost up and I want to get an addl. 2 year extended factory warranty for my 2001 E320. I live in San Diego. Where is the best price for this warranty from MB (not 3d party).

    Steve
  • billp8billp8 Posts: 56
    Does anyone know of a place in or near Arlington, VA, where you can HAND wash the car yourself? In the past, I have had bad experiences with even the "brushless" car washes. Many thanks!
  • haspelbeinhaspelbein Posts: 227
    I would agree on the torque wrench for spark plugs. You can also purchase a special spark plug wrench (Hazet/approx. $60) that guides the spark plug and makes cross-threading almost impossible.

    I'm not sure that it is necessarily a job for a professional, but it is something that should be done with a lot of care.
  • cce182cce182 Posts: 40
    Rather than spend $60 for a special tool, you can use a short length of neoprene hose that's a snug fit over the insulator of the plug, put the plug in the hose and then guide the plug into the threads, turning the plug with the hose as you guide it in. The hose should be just long enough so you can turn the plug with it as you guide the plug into the threaded hole in the head.

    Once the plug has been threaded in a few turns and it's obvious that the threads are not crossed, just yank the hose off the plug and finish tightening in the regular way with a plug socket, extension, and torque wrench.

    This technique gives you the "feel" of the the plug threading into the hole: if there's any resistance or reluctance to accept the plug because of cross-threading, you'll be able to detect it, withdraw the plug, and restart the insertion again - - all without risk of dropping the plug into an inaccessible place in the engine compartment - - or on the floor. (Plugs don't like being dropped on the floor!)

    By the way, you can also use this same hose for removing the plugs. Just loosen the plug with the wrench in the usual way, then push the hose onto the plug and turn it the rest of the way out. Much more elegant and safer than fiddling around with needle-nose pliers! Further, a hose of the correct length can save your knuckles and protect you from burns if, in your impatience, you're working on a hot engine!

    I'd be surprised if there weren't heli-coils in the sparkplug holes. There certainly ought to be (and could be installed if you accidentally stripped a spark-plug hole). Use of heli-coils in piston aircraft engines is widespread. These engines universally have aluminum heads. Plugs are much more frequent removed and reinsertion (at least once/year at annual inspection) of plugs, so OEM heads already have the helicoils in them. Also prevents aluminum galling on the plug threads and stripping the hole as you remove the plug.

    Champion sells a spark-plug thread lube which works fine in this application (just don't get it on the electrodes - it's electrically conductive), and by all means, use a torque wrench to finish the tightening!
  • digital_bdigital_b Posts: 127
    if you could actually get to the entire list of posts. the links at the top for beginning and scroll up 20 DONT WORK.
  • cduongcduong Posts: 70
    My small rectangular yellow light , on the right front side of the '96 E320 car has a bad connection resulting in "Lamp Defective" readout at the dash board. Any body has any idea "how to" get to it for replacement.
    Thanks a bunch
  • cmayercmayer Posts: 38
    If it's the same as on my '98, it's accessible thru the wheel well. You'll see an access door there.
  • cduongcduong Posts: 70
    Cmayer... What is the wheel well and where is it? Thanks
  • lhcleunglhcleung Posts: 24
    Hi everybody! I have been a reader of this board for more than a year. In April 2001 I've got myself a E320; it's just a beautiful, beautiful car!. Now, I have almost finished one year for my car; but I have travelled only 6,000 klm (kilometers). My first Service A is not due until another 9,000 klm. I know this question of getting engine oil change before 15,000 klm has already been covered extensively on this Board. But I would like to hear from those of you who ACTUALLY HAVE FOLLOWED THE FSS (flexible service schedule)as recommended by MBenz, about the RESULTS you've got - any negative or positive effects on the engine or the result is even better. I certainly would appreciate any information on this. As I have heard that Mercedes Benz have actually preconditioned the engines before the final production; as a result there is no need to have the first 5,000 miles oil change to flush out any possible metal debris the engine may have. I don't know how true this is.
    Louis
  • valueguyvalueguy Posts: 208
    After 10 weeks of waiting I took delivery of my 330 Convertible today. I wanted a convertible for my weekend drives and I picked the 330 over the SLK. These cars are very different but their prices are close. I wanted to spend no more than $45,000 on my third car. I chose a 2002 BMW 330 convertible White/Sand with 5 speed, xenon lights and premium package. Also, I got the M3 steering wheel and clear lenses for the front and sides.

    The BMW is very different from my M-B '00E430.
    The car shifts well and handles crisply. Acceleration is brisk and the car feels fast due to the smoothness of BMW's in-line 6 cylinder engine. Interior and ergonomics are on par with M-B.

    When I got home today from the dealer I noticed a dime sized ding on the hood. Perhaps, one of the service guys dinged the hood while installing my clear lenses. The dealer promised a dentless repair next week. Other than the ding(@!@!) the car has some scratches on the hood and one very tiny (real tiny) bubble on the hood. Overall, the paint quality, fit and finish is excellent.

    So far, I prefer my M-B ride to the BMW as a daily
    commuter. I will see if my opinion changes as I put more miles on the 330. Any input on how I should handle the "dinged" hood situation with my dealer is appreciated.
  • cmayercmayer Posts: 38
    The wheel well is the area beneath/behind the semi-circular cutout in the fender where the wheel and tire are. You'll find the access to release for the parking lamp assembly in the front of the well near the amber lens.

    You should stop at an auto parts place before hand and buy a front parking lamp (bulb.) Almost any parts store should have them, but you may need to buy two due to packaging. No big deal as we're talking about $1 each. You'll need to specify your car by year and model

    When you're ready to replace it, you'll want a dry cleaning cloth to remove the grime you're apt to find on the assembly. If it's really grimy, you'll want warm, soapy water. If so, use the water only on the outside of the assembly. Then dry it and your hands before you open it to change the lamp. You'll spend more time cleaning than you will renewing the lamp.
  • cduongcduong Posts: 70
    Cmayer.. Thanks for the info. Internet is wonderful, isn't it. Have a nice day
This discussion has been closed.