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Mercedes-Benz E-Class Sedans

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  • microrepairmicrorepair Eastern MassachusettsPosts: 508
    aaragam:
    Your salesman may have been referring to brake dust shields that get installed between the wheel and the wheel hub. They are supposed to reduce the amount of brake dust that ends up on the alloy wheels. They have been discussed many times here and there are widely varying opinions on their effectiveness. I have no opinion: I have not used them..
  • OM is the word - how it is spelled; the utterance can vary according to how long one can - it could be OMMMMMMMMMMMM or OOOOOOMMMMMMMMMmmmmmm, etc. btw another such spiritual combo is SRI OM which is my second choice - SRI refers to one form of the Almighty...OM pays homage...

    mbdriver - thanks, I wanted the mud flaps, the salesman wasn't aware of its use. In a country such as India (where I come from) where the roads are not as good (urghhhhhhh!), these were always necessary. I will get them soon.

    microrepair - I guess you are mentioning the same what the salesman talked about; will explore the archives.. thanks....
  • I have used brake dust shields,it did reduce the brake dust. However it caused overheating and distortion to the rotors, had to replace rotors and pads at a cost of >$500.00. A good alloy wheel cleaner and a hose is your best bet.
  • I will be purchasing a E320 in the DC metro area in the next couple of months. Which dealership should I go to and which sales person should I use? What about the "internet" sales people?
  • Buy from Euromotorcars in Bethesda. My salesman is no longer there but anyone will do. Remember, there is an approximate 7 percent markup on Invoice and a 3 percent dealer holdback. Edmunds will give you the exact numbers. You should be able to get your car for $500-800 over actual dealer cost. Good Luck!!
  • Aaragm, I like the OM, hope you get it. My second choice was GU10TAG, I thought it would have been really nice on a German car. Before I bought the MB I had an Acura Integra GTR, the plates on it were HAIKU. Is there anyone else here that likes to have fun with their Personal Plates? Share with us.

    Bubba

    ". . .my friends all drive Porches, I must make AMENDS. . ." J. Joplin
  • mbdrivermbdriver Posts: 426
    wmoliver - I second what donald02 said about EuroMotorcars in Bethesda. I live close to Tysons, but bought my 2000 E320 from Euro. I found the treatment, courtesy and negotiation there to be a pleasure. I dealt with Sudhir Katyal, a real no-pressure pro, and I'll definitely go back to him, if and when.

    My service advisor is Andy Guida, the best of the best. Feel free to e-mail me with questions.
  • i brought mine from HBL a few weeks ago and had good experience with my sales person mark stephens. a very fine gentleman. don't have enough to say about the dealership itself. i remember i was there a few months ago, stood in the show room for a good 10 minutes and was totally ignored. don't know whether it was how i dressed that day or was it my skin color which i couldn't really do much about. anyway, mark was great and you may want to consider as your second option.

    have heard good thing about Euromotorcars. guess i didn't want to fight the beltway traffic :-).
  • cticctic Posts: 291
    "You should be able to get your car for $500-800 over actual dealer cost."
    That's more of a wish than fact. It has not been the experience of most of the posters here. Many have paid MSRP.

    Regarding brake dust shields, posters across many boards have all recommended against it for the reason 20endicott said - overheating.
  • Dealerships make most of their money on used cars and service. A new car costs them nothing until they have to pay the factory after the car is delivered. A profit of $500-800 per car is a great return for them. The only exception is when supply is less than demand then they can increase the margin. Suggest you get the dealer's cost for the car you want (considering hold back and invoice markup) add $500-800 and make your offer. If that dealer won't accept, then call other dealers within 2 or 3 hundred miles of your home and make your offer to their sales manager. You'll get your deal!!
  • cticctic Posts: 291
    It all depends on the car, I once got an Accord for my nephew at $2K under invoice.

    But how many posters on this board have gotten their E's for $5-800 over invoice?
  • I suspect it all comes down to supply and demand, doesn't it. The internet has increased the amount of info that buyers have so it's easier to make informed decisions. I bought a 2000 E320 in June, 2000 before the market crashed. I did many hours of research and asked people I knew in my city and paid full sticker just like everybody else. 6-12 months later they were selling for slightly more than invoice.
  • Mbdriver mentioned mudflaps for the W210 E320. Does anyone know if they can be had for the sport bodystyle? (E430 Sport)

    -rb
  • rlschirlschi Posts: 1
    My E500 was delivered with "H" rated tires, although the E2 option package specifies "W." The dealer installed correct tires, but no action on 130 MPH electronic limiter. Zone manager claims that factory sometimes makes a "mistake" on particular country vehicle equipment as this is a world car, and presumably the limiter is correctly set at approx. 150 MPH. While I'll probably never exceed even the 130 mark, there was no mention (other than fine print in owner's manual) of the tire rating/speed limiter issue. Any one else have the same experience?
  • I picked up an E500 (E2, folding rear seat, V60 phone, and CD player) last night for $750 over invoice in Orange County, CA with very little difficulty. Maybe it was a slow night, or maybe it was that a lady drove off the lot without buying just as I was walking in the door.

    I tried to pre-buy the navigation Comand, but was told that the special offer expired and is no longer available.

    Love the car.
  • Which particular dealer was this and can I have the name of your salesman if you don't mind =)

    Thanks!
  • cticctic Posts: 291
    MB is not a mass market dealer like Honda or Toyota. Typically they don't sell as many cars and there are not as many MB dealers in an area.

    And consider the salesmen. If you can get a car for $5-700 over invoice who's going to pay them? And from what I hear, a sales job a MB is the pinnacle of carsales jobs - they must make over 100K there.

    That is not to say you can't get deals. My friend got about 1K off his 2003E320 which was on the lot, and I got about the same for my old C-class even though it was a special order. However, all new style cars coming in, the S-classes in 2000(?), the new E in 2002, the new CLs, etc. are pretty much all MSRP.
  • To Crazymaler: I got my E500 from Caliber Motors in Anaheim. The salesman's name is Wade Liu; he was polite and helpful. I also looked at MB of Laguna Niguel - I spoke with someone who bought on 12/31 and he received a deal at $500 over invoice.
  • These reports of near-invoice E sales really calls into question the accuracy of the Edmunds TMV calculations. Does they just lag far behind the market, or are they just plain wrong? They still show the E320 as having a TMV exactly equal to MSRP, and I am in the same area as all these near-invoice posters, what gives?
  • mbdrivermbdriver Posts: 426
    rbrenton88 -- The MB OEM mud flaps will fit any W210 E-Class, including (I'm almost certain) the E430 Sport. When my dealer tried to install mine on my 2000 E320 and had trouble, they discovered that although the box/packaging was marked "E-Class," the mud flaps would not fit. They called the distribution center with the MB part number, and it turned out that the mud flaps had been mispackaged. and were actually for a C-Class.

    Several days later the dealer received the correct E-Class mud flaps and they were installed in minutes.

    Hope this helps -- your dealer's parts department should be able to confirm that they will fit your E-430 Sport.

    houstonmerc -- I bought my 2000 E320 in late April 2000 (D.C. area) and paid around $1,000 over invoice. I guess the going price depends on where you shop.
  • There have been many posts over the years lamenting how the "dealers" will only sell for MSRP or for a small amount under MSRP. Americans seem conditioned to not want to bargain for anything but houses. Somehow it's unseemly to "bargain". I lived in Italy for a year and once you learn how to bargain in Europe you can get much better deals in the US.

    The dealer wants to move his product, perform service functions, make a reasonable profit, and keep the system running. Then how do you get a 'good' deal? Notice I didn't say the best deal! (If you know what it takes to make you happy then go for it.) First you determine specifically the car you want and what deviations you will accept. You determine what the exact cost to the dealer is for the car you want including 'dealer holdback'(which is about 3% for most cars). You determine what amount over dealer cost you are willing to pay. (Personally, $500-800 is my limit for a Mercedes) This gives you your 'offer amount' for the car you want.

    Get on the phone and call all dealer's Sales Manager's for your brand within a reasonable mileage radius of your residence and tell them specifically what you want and give them your offer. Speaking to the Sales Manager eliminates one person from the commission chain saving you money. About 1/3 will tell you to stick it you-know-where, 1/3 will give you a ridiculous response, but 1/3 will meet your price or very close to it. (At least this is my experience in buying cars over the years).

    Armed with this information go to your local dealer who you probably would like to deal with since he is close and makes the deal much more pleasant if you can get together. Based upon the info from the other dealers make your offer maybe adding $100 or $200 to buy close to home. Don't be worried by that "we never cut prices like that", or, if you give him your phone number and say "call me if you can come down" and he says "we never call back" (that's my dealers favorite line). When I got home the phone was ringing off the hook to get my business. My dealer is EuroMotorcars in Bethesda, MD

    I'm convinced the main reason most people don't get good deals on cars is their 'emotional' need to get the car fast, their inability to 'walk away' from the showroom, their lack of preparation, and backbone. These same people will drive all over town to save 50 cents on a box of Wheaties. Think about it, buying a Mercedes is a lot of money. You owe it to yourself to get the best deal for you family and you'll feel great when you DO THE DEED!!!
  • footiefootie Posts: 636
    I agree with your approach 100%.

    The only thing I would add is that once you get a given dealership to say yes to a given car and price point, be prepared to confirmt the outthe door price on the phone.

    Add the car price, taxes and what you expect the license and registration fee to get your 'OTD' price.

    That way you don't show up and find out that your car has 'oh by the way': VIN etching, Lojack, paint shield, armor plating, tinted windows and a tow hitch for only $3200 more.

    Also you need to insure that the registration and license fee are reasonable - they vary somewhat by state. Here in the Boston area, it's as low as $75 and as high as $300. What do we think they pay the person that runs these over to the registry every day?..

    Good luck and shop hard!
  • footiefootie Posts: 636
    Hi Innerloop

    There's a place on Edmund's where they explain how the TMV is done.

    http://www.edmunds.com/products/tmv/learn.html

    It sounds good, but stretches my credulity a bit in terms of how often they update so many cars - so it's probably an approximation at best. They also have a 'proprietar' algorithm that takes lots of factors into account, such as brand.

    In that case, they might just peg the MB pricing to MSRP.

    Who knows, maybe they have a deal with MB that says they do that anyway.
  • Good points Footie.

    I once made the mistake of helping my son buy a Nissan Maxima and the best deal was in Tysons Corner. I specified over the phone the total deal including ALL taxes, surcharges, etc. The sales rep agreed and promised no additional charges. When we got there he added a $250 prep charge. He said all dealers in Virginia added that same charge (the Federal Trade Commission would be interested in this). I told him to stick it where the sun don't shine and we left. Happily he had already prepared a lot of paperwork which was in vain. GREAT!!
  • I agree with the earlier posts. Here are my extra pointers -

    1. Pick the dealer as well as the car. I am prepared to pay a little more to a dealer with an excellent service department. When I later go back to the dealer for warranty repairs, they will see that I bought there and hopefully treat me like family.

    2. Try to do your shopping during less busy times at the dealership. 90 minutes before closing time on a weeknight worked for me. I've shopped for cars before on rainy days - salesmen are dying to do a deal.

    3. With leases, do your homework in advance. Find out what residual rates and money rates are being offered. (There's lots of information on the internet.) Do the math in advance and be prepared to stick to your guns. Most of the time, the dealers can manipulate the numbers to make lots of profit on a lease, all the while telling the customer that he's getting a great deal.
  • cticctic Posts: 291
    In the case of service it doesn't matter where you buy your car. They will treat you the same.

    While I was at the dealership this week, they got a call from a guy who bought a new car elsewhere but didn't get the walk through on the car and asked if they would do it. The dealer was happy to do it.

    MB is different from other brands in this regard. Other marques may not give you a loaner car if you didn't buy it from them, but MB dealers will give you one no matter where you got it. I think some other marque's dealers may refuse to even service your car if you got it elsewhere.
  • mbdrivermbdriver Posts: 426
    donald02 -- Your experience with the Maxima is typical of the sales approach used by the dealer. My experience is that they will do or say almost anything to make a sale and maximize their profit. But I learned my lesson long ago and now, even though I live a mile from Tysons, I won't even consider shopping there or at any of the other dealers run by the same organization.
  • patpat Posts: 10,421
    >> In that case, they might just peg the MB pricing to MSRP.

    Who knows, maybe they have a deal with MB that says they do that anyway. <<

    Heh, usually Edmunds gets accused of that sort of collaboration with BMW, not Mercedes-Benz.

    I assure you, the staff who produces the site is not collaborating with any manufacturer in that sort of way. If you really want to ask about this, check out the "Help" link at the top of the page (also the bottom) to find ways to talk to the site content producers.

    :-)
  • footiefootie Posts: 636
    Dealers for most brands in the U.S. have 'bought' their vehicles when they are put on the truck here in the U.S. So they don't sit on lots still belonging to the manufacturer or even their U.S. import organization. When and how they 'pay' for them is between the dealership and the distributor/manufacturer. This is also part of the cost settlement that never shows up in invoice pricing.

    Most manufacturers are FOB point of US shipment to dealer. Here in New England, Lexus is FOB New Jersey and Honda FOB Westboro, MA. This is where their 'ports' are.

    Same would be true for MB unless they operate under different rules.
  • Yes, the car belongs to the dealor on his lot. However, he pays based upon an invoice he receives from the manufacturer. His only cost is the interest on the loan he uses to pay or the lost opportunity cost if he uses his own assets and no loan.

    So, the point I was making earlier is that making several hundred dollars for a few days interest is a good return. And whether it's a Mercedes or a Kia makes very little difference in terms of the cost to the dealer.
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