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Any input from the forum would be great!
kgoward: Congrats on the car. I'm sure it will be great for your needs. Your gas mileage should be great.
I've sold a lot of my cars privately and I've never had a problem. I tell them everything I know about the car, strong and weak points if any.
I make VERY sure they know the car is being sold strictly AS-IS. I even have them sign a form that states that.
Still, there are risks involved. The transmission could fail in three months and you could wind up in small claims court. Unlikely, but it could happen.
Do not take a check. Insist on green cash or if you have to, a certified check.
Also, try to screen out the flakes that call...you'll know who they are. If you feel uneasy, tell them you have a deposit on it or something.
I drive from CT to NJ, so you can imagine the people do dart infront of me, but I usually drive in the right lane in traffic, and trucks, which are almost all manual, make it flow smoothly. Truckers don't want to be shifting gears either, so they keep pace. If you keep a distance of 0.75 cars between you and the car infront, most people with common sence will not try to take the spot, but it gives you enough coushion to not to clutch. And even if someone jumps into your lane, they are not going anywahere fast, and they usualy jump in the right lane to get off anyway. I don't claim to have a scientific approach to this, but for some reason, people think that they can get somewhere faster by constantly shifting lanes, the fact remains, that they are still not going anywhere. By sitting in one lane and simply cruising rather than speeding up and stopping, you save your self a few neurons, and have an easier, smoother commute.
I drove a clutch in rush hour, and the clutch was not the problem, it was the traffic!
Can anybody confirm this with their recent purchase? It's not that I don't trust my dealer, but, ...
Also, when I took delivery, the car's floor mats were missing. The dealer ordered new ones which should be here next week. Question: Is the standard equipment on an LX Coupe front floormats only or both front AND rear floormats? (I'lll leave it to your imagination as to why I'm asking
Anytime a car I bought came with floormats, both front and rear mats were included. I can't imagine the Civic would be any different.
Sure enough, I checked and the keyless remotes are there. I went back to the dealer and showed it to him. He said something along the lines of "they were a mid-year change." He was used to delivering LX's w/o them. He took my car through the service center and 5 minutes later brought it back with 2 remotes coded to it.
As far as the floor mats, I talked to the parts person and asked about the mats that were ordered. He said they come in a set of four (2 - front and 2 - back.) Although the salesman said only front, I should be getting all four. I have to wait and see for sure until next week when they come in.
I wonder how many people he sent away without remotes and floor mats.
Did you get all 3 keys? or only one?
I took the two I found in the car and was going to give them back to the dealer. The dealer told me to keep them for my trouble. If I should loose or break one, I've got a spare that I'll simply have to get tied to my car (only two can be tied to a car at a time.)
Also, as of today, I have floor mats!!! Turns out there are three, 2 for the front and 1 for the back that spans both sides.
I sold my CR-V remotes on ebay for like $20 each, plus shipping, after I installed remote starter and alarm. Apparantley some of the remotes, CR-V in particular, work with Honda Motorcycles. Just make sure you list the FCC and model number when posting.
Floor mats can go on ebay as well, if the dealer does not want them.
2004 was the first year remotes were standard on Civics so if that salesperson had been selling Civics for years, they could simply forget I suppose.
Still, the fact you questioned him should have jogged his memory or caused him to ask someone with better product knowledge.
Some Civics did have remote locking standard before 2004, right?
I average 27-28 mpg and this week I only got 24.91! I am not even using a/c since august! I don't understand why Honda is falling short in fuel economy on the new vehicles.
Every car has its sweet spot for different goals: such as mpg, handling, etc.
Or pardon me for saying this, but you might be flogging the vehicle. I tend to believe what you say, but truly I have nothing to reference your real driving behavior against.
The reason I am thinking something is wrong because I "easily" get 35-38 mpg and I am "flogging it" within the parameters of the break in procedure.
Normal driving, the car spends most of it's life at 70 mph on my daily commute.
Just short of 13000 miles now, overall gas mileage is 38.03 mpg. I noticed the mileage steadily increase during break in and seemed to level off at around 3500 miles at approximately 37.8 mpg. Switched to Mobil 1, 0W20 at 10,000 and mileage went from 37.8 to 38.03 overall. Not much change. More likely due to less A.C. use. The car definitely feels more lively now at 13K than it did at 3K. I may be pushing it over 70 more often too. I was pretty easy with it during break in.
I'm wondering how much influence the Vtec has on mileage. It kicks in at around 3000 RPM (65mph in the EX). I've had several trips in the low 40's (mpg) when I was driving on rural roads under 65 mph. When I push it over 70, mileage drops to the mid 30s.
Warner
If you go back a few posts, you will find a more accurate way of figuring out your MPG's. Your first mistake is that you went to fill up whwn you only needed 5 gallons.
Fill up at a gas station until the first auto shut off, DO NOT TOP OFF! Reset the trip odometer to "0". Drive as you usually do. Wait until the tank is very close to empty (when "low gas" light is on). Go back to the same station, same pump, same time of day and perferrably same weather. Fill up until the first auto shut off, DO NOT TOP OFF!. Note the mileage and amount of gas needed. Reset the odometer and repeat the procedure 5-10 times. Average the 10, and you will get the most accurate MPG's.
Also, any idea if its better to run the car to close to empty before filling, in case they put something into the tank before it leaves the factory to preserve the life of the gas?
Dealer puts the gas in your car. It comes with very little gas from factory.
I found that the driver side of this vehicle is 1cm lower than the passager side.
Is that normal?
Does anyone have the same issue?
Thanks
max9
Also, I doubt your gas mileage will improve much as you put on miles. I would be very surprised if you see more than 1 or 2 MPG improvement from day one through 100,000 miles. Both my Hondas have gotten the same mileage from day one, which has been slightly under EPA estimates. Cars are machined better than ever and break in just isn't as big a factor as it used to be. Drive it easy for the first few hundred miles like your owner's manual states. Then drive it the way you plan on driving it the rest of its life.
Inside the fuel tank of most vehicles is a sending unit that includes a pick-up tube, and a float operated fuel gauge. The fuel tank pick-up tube is connected to the fuel pump by the fuel line. Some electric fuel pumps are conbined with the sending unit. (I don't know if this is true about Honda)! The pick-up tube extends nearly, but not completely, all the way to the bottom of the tank, so that rust, dirt, sediment, and water cannot be drawn up into the fuel tank filter, which can cause some nasty issues.
Vehicles equipped with EFI engines usually have electric fuel pumps mounted in the fuel tank. Some EFI engines have an in-tank electric pump, and a second electric fuel pump mounted under the vehicle.
Electric fuel pumps offer some important advantages. Because electric fuel pumps maintain a constant fuel pressure, they aid in starting and reduce vapor lock problems.
It is NOT a good idea to run a fuel tank low with an EFI vehicle that is equipped with an electric fuel pump in the fuel tank. The electric fuel pump in the fuel tank contains a small direct current electric motor with an impeller mounted on the end of the motor shaft. The main reasons for the fuel pump being located in the fuel tank are: ----1.) To keep the fuel pump cool while it is operating, ----2.) To keep the entire fuel line pressurized to prevent premature fuel evaporation.
If the fuel level is allowed to become low, the liquid, (gasoline), will move in the tank, and it is possible that there will not be sufficient fuel, (liquid), around the body of the electric pump to keep it cool. In addition, the movement of the fuel will also move the sediment and water at the bottom of the tank.
Fuel injectors spray a certain amount of fuel into the intake system. If the fuel pressure is low, (due to a problem with the electric fuel pump), not enough fuel will be sprayed into the individual cylinders. The engine will run, but on a lean mixture. Over time this can cause major engine damage.
As a side bar piece of information, boat owners with EFI inboards and I/O engines replace the electric fuel pump as a regular maintenance item every two season. The reason for this is simple. The electric pump on a boat is not in the fuel tank, but rather, it is located in the engine compartment. There is no fuel on the outside of the pump keeping it cool. The CG will not allow electric fuel pumps to be located in the fuel tank of the boat. Electric fuel pumps loose their efficiency very slowly, and as such, it will be hard to notice a loss of power or performance. On a marine engine, because of its high operational RPMs (3,000 +), the operator will notice the RPMs on the Tach. hunting very slowly,(not enough to alter performance). This is the first sign of a fuel pump problem. Since the pump has been loosing efficiency slowly, when the new pump is installed, a significant improvement is felt in the operation of the engine.
Anyway, that's for the add'l ammo. :-)
Elissa
Additives are a waste of money. The only one I've heard about is Chevron's Techron additive which is a high dosage of the additives they use in their own fuels. For several years they were regarded as having the best additive pack in ALL grades of their fuel. Then Texaco took the best for a while. This is according to a mechanic who keeps up with data in the trade.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,