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(1) Finally, at 255 horsepower, the engine feels more powerful. The 222 horsepower version for 2000/2001 actually felt less powerful than does my 190 horsepower 1995.
(2) However, even with 255 horsepower, the GLE with a 4-speed automatic is not as quick as my 1995 SE 5-speed manual. It may have more "top end" power, but my 1995 feels much quicker off the line and, as such, more nimble getting in and out of traffic. Personally, I would not buy a Maxima with an automatic. In my book, the Maxima engine rates about a 9 on a scale of 1-10, but the automatic transmission rates about a 4 or 5. Almost anything else I've driven - especially by Acura, BMW and Mercedes - has much less of a "performance penalty" when you go to an automatic. The BMW 530i, which is a heavier car than the Maxima and has 30 fewer horsepower, is definitely more responsive and quicker when equiped with BMW's 5-speed automatic.
(3) The 2002 GLE also felt somewhat less tight than my 1995 SE in the handling department. The GLE was definitely quieter and drove very nicely on the highway. It absolutely has a more "luxurious" ride than the 1995 SE. But it also seemed to have a bit more body roll and wasn't as enjoyable through a twisty park road which is often part of my daily drive.
Personally, I would have a difficult time going from a 1995 SE 5-speed to a 2002 GLE. Increased luxury does not offset the decreased fun to drive factor for me (a 2002/3 SE 6-speed would be a different matter). And if you are already driving an SE automatic, the difference in going to a GLE won't be as significant. I recommend you drive a GLE for an extended period before making a decision.
JC
I lost 10k in 38 months that's $263.00 a month. Show me a lease that compares.
However, I was surprised to see the MA does not show up in the MSRP. I can only assume it is absorbed by the dealer. There is no reason for me to suspect that the "invoice" they show me was anything by the actual invoice.
We ended up splitting the difference and had them threw in some accessories. I think I got a pretty good deal at >$300 below invoice. I'm just surprised that the MA fee does not show up anywhere in Edmunds site as well as many others. The only place where I think MA shows up in the invoice but not mentioned is at carsdirect.com.
Is this common for all Nissan cars? Or across the board?
JC
If you paid cash for your car, the lost interest on $24000 is around $80-$100 per month (3 years ago you could have gotten a CD paying over 5%). So add that to your $263 per month cost.
If you financed it, you would need to add more than $100 per month to the $263.
By leasing, even with the up-front money down, you would avoid those finance/interest losses. It's possible you still came out ahead by not leasing, but perhaps not by as much as you think.
Thanks!
If your car is in and out of the shop during that period, then you have a decision to make.
I bought an aftermarket warranty because I've had a few problems with mine. But even then I waited until a week before my original warranty expired to buy one.
Goodluck!
BTW: the engine and tranny (I think) are covered under Nissan's 5 year/60K powertrain warranty. So if you're gonna sell your car before you hit that (assuming you drive <12k/year), then I wouldn't bother with an extended warranty.
either Rockville or Bethesda. I don't remember the dealers name but
in the past has had reasonable and fair pricing on Maximas. You
could do better but you could also do worse.
Btw, these are awesome cars !! ( my 2 cents )
online at the carsdirect.com site.
to the front of their car. Your thoughts and experiences, please.
Awaiting Isidore down here in Southern Mississippi...Yikes!
Good luck.
Thanks for your input. With regard to the clearmask, I have seen 2 cars with it
and it is virtually 99% invisible. I am mainly concerned with how it holds up
over time. 3M warrants it for life against yellowing and cracking and my installer
said he would replace it if there was a problem. Another good website for this is
www.xpel.com.
Several years ago, I installed additional wood trim in my 2k Max. GLE. At that
time I purchased a kit for about $ 200 from www.woodtrim.com which was
actually a JoshuaTree kit. I bought this kit because they offered a " Factory
Match " Kit which nicely matched the existing trim in the GLE. As far
as installation goes, if you follow the directions AND take your time it
will turn out great. I'm very happy with it. However, if you only want to re-do
the armrest, it would certainly be cheaper to order a trim piece replacement
from your dealer . ( I'm thinking maybe $ 25 ?? ) It just pops off.
BTW: Good luck with " Isadore" . I hope you are in the right place at the right
time. ;-)
http://www.invinca-shield.com
$67 for the hood and end caps
$289 to cover the entire front
(I think) offer on a 2003 Max SE, Gray Lustre, Frost Cloth & Sunroof - $23,800 plus tax, title, tags. I am picking up the car on Friday afternoon for an extended test drive (returning it on Saturday). Let me know what you think of the deal!
I got my 03 Majestic Blue Max SE for $250.00 over invoice at the beginning of Sept here in Seattle. Options are leather (black), titanium and meridian packages, sunroof, traction control, carpet trunk mat. It had just come off the truck and the interior was still wrapped in plastic. Good Luck.
That said, the Acura TL is experiencing some un-Honda like problems (auto transmission and little fit and finish issues), is made in the US and, in spite of high horsepower numbers on paper, is way, way down from a BMW 3-series in driving dynamics. If I was replacing my sedan today and decided not to upgrade to a BMW 5-series, I think I would pick a Japanese built 2003 Maxima over a US-built Acura TL. If I really needed to save money, I might consider a Honda Accord, but I just don't see the value of the TL over the Maxima. I do favor performance, however, and the SE 6-speed would be my clear choice - for which there is no Honda/Acura equivalent. If I was forced to chose between a 4-speed auto GLE and 5-speed auto TL, that would be a little tougher.
P.S. The S2000 was a much easier choice - Boxster S performance with Honda quality and limited production exclusivity for $32k. What's not to like?
Here's another web site. Researched it last year but didn't went for it. They in fact have local installers also if you are not willing to take the risk of messing it up. Expensive stuff though.
http://www.xpel.com/
kruebbe "Real-World Trade-In Values" Aug 30, 2002 11:54pm
Thanks much for any help you can provide.
Dvf
The little plastic fastners that hold the interior trunk finish piece are a little tricky to get out the first time you try it but it's easy after the first one.
Get yourself a bottle of wheel cleaner @ an auto
supply store and a brush with something like tampico bristles (soft/non scratching). Just
spray the inside (between the spokes) and brush
away. Rinse each wheel as soon as you're done
cleaning it. Several manufacturers make the cleaner
but be sure the label says "all wheel types" so
you don't buy something that will eat the clear
coat or pit it.
berbel (master detailer)
on your paint, not sure if vinagar is safe for your paint...
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
While waiting for the alernator to be replaced, the technician comes to me and says "Sir, the belt needs replacement as its quite cracked up. We will do it $90 instead of the usual $120 because we have already removed the alternator, replacing the belt will be easier." The alternator replacement was free for me as it was a manufacturer recall. But somehow I was not convinced of the "new" cracked belt problem the dealer discovered. I felt he just wanted to make an extra $90 for a lark. Ofcourse I did not get the belt changed.
I still don't know if by "belt" he meant the timing belt or alternator belt. If its the alternator belt, has anyone of you had to replace it and if so after how many miles?
I will appreciate your feedback. Thanks in advance.
Seeya
paint as well but it will require a follow-up with
a wax or polish depending on your preference.
Vinegar will strip any wax/polish from your finish.
Another alternative is to clay the finish or use
of polishing compound BUT I do not recommend that
unless you have a severe paint problem. Also, I
would NOT suggest you you try it yourself. Take
it to a professional detail shop. Use of clay
or polishing compound in the hands of someone
not familiar with its application and removal
can be disasterous.
good luck/berbel
windshield. I know of instances where use of steel
wool (regardless of how fine it is) resulted in
the windshield being scratched. You don't even
notice the damage until night when another driver's
lights hit the windshield and then you see the
scratches. I know of two people who had to have windshields replaced because of that.
Another possible solution for glass. Wad up a clean rag and wet it. Wring it out about half.
Pour common BAKING SODA on it and wipe down your
windshield thoroughly with it. Hose thoroughly
and dry with terry cloth. berbel
Well, over the weekend, I waxed my "Sterling Mist" with McGauirer's (sp ?) again, and it seems that with each waxing, the water spots on my finish are fading. And boy is she shinning! I feel like I'm almost driving a mirror! As for my windows, I haven't done anything there yet. I surely don't want to ruin those windows. You can't see the water spots from the inside of the car, but you can from the outside. Of course, I tend to look really close at my car, but sure would like to get it perfected as much as possible since I plan on keeping it for a while.
Thank you for your suggestions. Much appreciated.