Nissan Maxima

carguy71 · February 2003

I just wanted to support/add to berbel's comments regarding the '00 model with the 5-speed manual transmission. I've lurked around this board on and off since '99 as well but never posted before. Berbel's comments were right on - at the time there were some very vocal owners that were having issues with what they refered to as as the fuel-cut problem. There also was a poster that claimed to be a Nissan mechanic (I believe his name was Joe... very helpful fellow, got flamed a lot by those posters with problems though.) I don't remember exactly, but he stated it was actually attributable to the break-in process and went away with time.

Despite some misgivings I purchased a '00 SE with the 5-speed in August, '00. When new, the "jerkiness"/stumble was noticeable, particularly so in first gear if you accelarated then took your foot completely off the gas... it almost felt like your brakes kicked in. However, in my case the jerkiness gradually went away until at about 5k miles it was basically gone. I have had no issues with it since and notice a discernable performance difference between my car and my friend's '00 with auto transmission. Just wanted to relate that to the poster who was considering a '00 with a stick.

mtofan · February 2003

I will purchase a 2000 SE stick within the next month or so. I test drove a few cars with anywhere from 20 000 to 65 000 miles. None of them had a "jerkiness" problem.
By the way, are there any other possible problems with 2000 Maximas that I should look at before purchasing it? The best deal I saw advertised was a 2000 SE, manual, leather and all the goodies for $12 500 US. What do you guys and gals think of that price? I'm sure I can bring it down to about $11 500 to $12 000 without too much of a problem. Is that a good deal or is it an average deal? Help me out please.

carguy71 · February 2003

As I mentioned, in my particular case the jerkiness went away around 5k miles. I'm inclined to feel that it was simply a break-in thing. I now have over 30k miles and my car has been flawless.

In doing a quick search of used Maxima's in my area (Seattle) $12,500 for a car you're describing is an extremely low price... they're in the mid to upper teens here. You didn't list the mileage, but I'm assuming average miles.

Kirstie_H · February 2003

Don't forget trivia night on Wednesday, February 19, 9-10pm ET/6-7pm PT. Join other members for some trivia and member-to-member chat!

http://www.edmunds.com/townhall/chat/townhallchat.html

mtofan · February 2003

carguy71,

I'm actually in Toronto, Canada and the price is converted from CDN $ to US $. It has 65 000 miles. I also saw many 2000 maximas SE with around 50 000 miles for $15 000 to $17 000. The one I mentioned for $12 500 seemed to be the best deal.

al57 · February 2003

Am still looking for response to previous posts on certain problems with the 2000. Only have 14000 miles but have heard of bad rotors,ignition coils and wind noise.Will dealer repair these items without already having the problem? The mileage is quite low so these problems have not appeared yet.3 year warranty expires in july. My friend has same car and coils were changed with 30k..Responses are appreciated.Do not want to pay for work when warranty expires for these problems if possible

kyleknicks · February 2003

click on this...

http://apollo799.50megs.com/Maxima/Maxima.htm

norbert444 · February 2003

Sorry, this is a bit long, but here is an interesting problem: I bought my GLE on Feb 10, 2000. The car was delivered to my office and I signed for it on the 18th.

Over the course of the following 3 years, I have noticed shaking of the steering wheel while braking at higher (over 55) freeway speeds. It didn't bother me except I realized last week that the warranty is about to expire. Thus, something needed to be done!!

I called the Nissan dealerships on Saturday the 15th. Told them I suspected warped rotors. The shop man said the warranty expired on the 10th which I disputed and he advised me to call 1-800-Nissan-1. Had to wait until Monday the 17th and reached an advisor who said he'll be back to me within 24 hours. He wasn't, so Tuesday the 18th (exactly 3 years since I got the car) I called the man again. He lost my file but remembered me. He arranged with the Nissan shop to see me today, the 19th. They wanted to charge me $20 just for inspection. I refused to pay and they dropped the charge.

The inspection confirmed what I suspected: Warped rotors. While this was going on, I discovered that it is a standard policy, at least at this Nissan dealer maintenance shop, to use power tools to torque the lug nuts. So, beware: You have to request the repair shop to hand torque the lugs or else you risk more warped rotors!

The repair shop said they agreed with the Nissan customer service that they will pay 50% and I will pay 50% ($75) for machining the rotors and replacing the pads. The pads are still at 7 mm, which is almost like new (9 mm) pads.

I refused any such deals and left. Called the Nissan CS rep again and he said that he originally agreed with the shop that Nissan will pay 1/2 and the shop 1/2. I am waiting for the resolution of this - I told the CS that I am already making a concession agreeing to machine the rotors instead of replacing them outright.

Wasn't there a TSB on warped rotors? Any other advice on this? Like how to correct the original delivery record on Nissan database? Thanks and sorry again for the long post ... Norbert

dklanecky · February 2003

Send me an e-mail and I'll send you a copy of the TSB. It's number is NTB00-88a:

Brief description is as follows (there's more):

Date:
May 24, 2002

2000-01 MAXIMA; BRAKE JUDDER

ATTENTION : THIS BULLETIN HAS BEEN REVISED.

This amended version of NTB00-088 contains revised Applied Vehicle information, Service Information, Service Procedure information, Parts Information, and Claims Information. Please use this bulletin (NTB00-088a) and discard any paper copies of NTB00-088.

APPLIED VEHICLE:
2000-01 Maxima (A33)

SERVICE INFORMATION

Brake judder may be described as steering wheel/body vibration or brake pedal pulsation when braking (especially during high speed braking). Brake judder may be created by excessive "thickness variation" of the brake rotors. Thickness variation is usually the result of excessive rotor run-out. While brake judder is usually associated with the front brake rotors, it may occur in the rear brake rotors as well.

NOTE :Brake judder repair, as outlined in this bulletin, is covered by the 3 year, 36,000 mile warranty for these vehicles.

NOTE :The ONLY way to eliminate brake judder caused by the front brakes is to turn the front disc brake rotors using an on-car brake lathe (such as the ProCut(TM) PFM900* or equivalent). The on-car brake lathe is more effective in reducing brake rotor run out than the conventional off-car lathe method. This is true even if the rotors are indexed after they are turned using the off-car method. The on-car brake lathe is a required essential tool, and must be used when turning front brake rotors as part of a warranty repair

dklanecky1@cs.com

berbel · February 2003

Hey carguy71:

The Nissan tech who used to post on THIS BOARD was
joenissan. You're right.....he did get flamed a
lot but the majority of us who have been here a
while got a LOT of good advice and input from him.
Personally I miss his posting here!

norbert:
IF you brought the problems to the attention of
your dealer BEFORE your warranty ran out, even if
it was 24 hrs. BEFORE it ran out, IMHO, they have
an obligation to deal with it at NO COST to you and
I would insist that they do so.

That problem with rotors was quite prevalent with
quite a number of Max buyers as the factory had
overtightened the lugs resulting in the damage.
Another thing they were doing at the time was in-
flating the tires to 40 pounds (and more in some cases) prior to shipping the cars from Osaka.

Personally, when I have ANY type of tire work done
I make it a point to tell the shop tech that I want
the lugs tightened to 85 pounds....no more...no less. All my brake components are and have been in
perfect condition and I think telling them exactly
how many pounds to tighten to has helped avoid
problems. Just my 2 cents.

berbel

norbert444 · February 2003

Thanks folks!!
I did bring it to the shop's attention 3 days before the 3 years from the true car delivery date (when I received it and signed for it) were up. However, the official Nissan record shows the wrong date (when I first contracted for the car) and I wonder how to correct that.

Thanks also for the 85 ft-lb requirement. It was funny this morning, when the shop mechanic asked for that number from the manager as he was told that I want the lugs hand-torqued. :-)

Now, how does one gain control over what happens in the shop when one is told it is Nissan policy not to let customers into the shop area?

carguy71 · February 2003

Yes, that was the name I was looking for. I agree, I felt he was a fount of useful information... hence why I mentioned his feeling that the 5-speed issue would go away after break-in, which it did in my case. I always thought his posts were insightful and friendly, despite some of the attacks he received. Hey Joe - if you still read this board, come on back!

pat · February 2003

FWIW, I wish he would come back also. I wrote him shortly after he disappeared explaining that he was highly in demand, but I did not hear back from him.

Joe, if you are there, we really would like to hear from you! :-)

simon_tx · February 2003

You should visit maxima.org website.

search the 5 Gen Maxima board and you will learn more than you care to about the Maxima.

I have a 2000 GLE: here is a list of problems i have had - all fixed under warranty

climate control blower motor (replaced twice)
warper rotors
A/T slipping - solenoid and transmission control module replaced
Wind noise on rear windows
bumper scratch just below trunk latch

Others I have read about, but not experienced myself include ignition coils - however this is a problem with almost every car (not just Nissan) - VW and Audi are recalling their cars. I think Bosch made some real bad coils that got put into late 90's early 2000 cars.

Mass Air Flow Sensor failure - not as big a problem with 2000 as the 2002 Max - a lot of people modify their intakes so it is hard to gauge actual problem.

Some people experienced ratlling in the rear deck around the Bose speaker - not a problem on all cars.

A lot of Nissan owners complain about the paint chipping easily - this again is a personal thing and in general I think paint on all manufacturers has gotten less durable in recent years.

If you go to NHSTA.com they list all the Technical Service Bulletins for the 2000 Maxima - there are some repeats and all do not apply to the SE or even all models, sometimes just within a VIN range.

For the most part it is a pretty good car - a pretty good blend or performance and luxury (at least in my case with the leather and Bose).

If you are into modding cars there are plenty of things you can do the improve performance, but as is the Maxima is a pretty good performance car.

Also - for what it is worth - the VQ engine in the Maxima gets very high praise for it performance and reliabilty from owners and press alike. In fact - although the engine in the Altima and Maxima are now 3.5L - it is essentially the same VQ in the 2000 - Nissan is not putting that is almost every car they make including their trucks.

kyleknicks · February 2003

okay guys.. i had posted a link to the warped rotors for the 2k maxima.... just go to that site and u'll be able to print out the tsb itself..

http://apollo799.50megs.com/Maxima/Maxima.htm

here it is again

aggiedog · February 2003

I've put 18 in my tank (02 SE). My wife had it riding on fumes.

norbert444 · February 2003

Further to my posts 6387 and 6390, and all the wonderful help posts from you folks:

Later in the day, I contacted the Nissan CS Rep and he finally arranged for my car to be repaired "as if under warranty", "one time complimentary repair." He said that the warranty has run out 3 years from the day I agreed to buy it, not from the day I took delivery. Nissan database lists the former as a date of delivery, though - go figure...

Thus, armed with the warped rotor TSB (thanks, dklanecky and kyleknicks), I went and had the car repaired. They also put in new brake pads. I spent a lot of time on this but paid $0. I wanted to watch the repairs but was denied entry into the work bay.

Interestingly, I originally wanted the rotors to be replaced with new ones but the TSB convinced me that it is best to just machine the existing ones ON THE CAR.

gerapau · February 2003

Norbert, I for one think that you got lucky getting Nissan to pick up the bill. The TSB that was issued dealing with warped rotors was issued because the cars were shipped from the manufacturer with the lugs over torqued. If it happened that your car was shipped with the lugs over torqued you should have noticed it and brought it to the attention of Nissan long before your car was three years old (I for one had my rotor replaced under the TSB after only 2 months and about 5,000 miles). If the wheels were over torqued they would have warped on you long before this. In three years there are just too many other reasons that your rotors could become warped. Nissan, in my opinion, has treated you very nicely.

Al57, I for one have had many problems with my 2000 SE 5 speed. As mentioned above, I had the warped rotor problem as well as the following:
- Coils replaced
- Back window problems (wind noise)
- Power Drivers seat switch
- Heated drivers switch
- Altinator (which left me stranded during vacation last summer)
- Transmission problems (rebuilt twice and is starting to make a funny noise again)
- Many fit and finish problems including having to get the back bumper painted due to misaligned trunk lid

It should be noted that all these problems were fixed under the warranty but it was still a major pain in the a**.

nabi · February 2003

Hi, we had a severe snow storm in DC area. My car was in snow pile for a couple of days. I just found that I got dent on passenger door panel. I'm not sure if it's from cleaning crew or other cars. Since it's a brand new Max. I really like to fix it well. Should I go to dealwership to get recommendation? How should I report it to my insurance to get it fixed without penalty? I have $100 deductible. Thank you.

mtofan · February 2003

My mother has a 99 maxima with only 28k on it. When going over bumps, there is a rattling noise coming from the dash (driver side). When I put my hand on the dash board, the noise goes away. I'm thinking it could just be a loose screw. Any suggestions?

mtofan · February 2003

nabi,
I would go to the dealership first to get a quote. Don't report it to your insurance company unless they want something like $1000 to fix it. Your rate will probably go up. In the long run, it will cost you more. Is it a big dent?

habitat1 · February 2003

I live in D.C. and have Geico insurance. In December, my Maxima was dented in a downtown valet parking garage and I unfortunately didn't notice it until after returning home. The parking garage management wouldn't cover the $850 repair, so Geico stepped up and allowed me to file it as an uninsured motorist claim. They had me contact DC police and file a report over the phone and give them the report number. I have $500 collision deductable, but only $200 on uninsured motorist, so their suggestion saved me $300. And they repeatedly confirmed that this would not go on my driving record or otherwise affect my premiums.

As for the repairs, I would fist take it to Dent Wizard (there is one in Rockville) and see if they can fix it using their "paintless" dent removal. If not, I recommend Quatro Auto Body in Silver Spring. They did a great job on my 1995 Ruby Pearl Maxima.

Good luck.

berbel · February 2003

I believe you would have a valid arguement with
Nissan if you took the position that you did not
purchase the car until the date you took delivery.

The day you take delivery is the date that your
check for the Max was handed to your sales rep.
The act of "paying" for the car is the "purchase."
The "purchase" IS NOT "ordering." Your warranty
is effective with the "purchase" NOT the "ordering."

Obviously, since Nissan has so "generously" agreed
to do the fix under warranty, the above points are
moot.

You don't have to be in the "service area" of your
dealership to convey your wishes to the tech who
will be working on your car. Your car warranty is,
in essence, a binding contract between you and
the manufacturer. The dealer is the manufacturer's
"agent." As such, he is required to meet needs
which you perceive to be important to you. You
can tell the service manager to convey your wishes
to the tech or you can tell the service manager that
you would like to speak directly to the tech who
will be performing the work on your car. The tech
can be summoned from the work area to the service
desk in order to speak with you directly. Neither
of these requests is unreasonable and you have
the right, as the owner of the car, to make them.
Hope this helps!

berbel

dklanecky · February 2003

I agree with berbel. I ordered my Murano on 2/15/2003. I will take delivery sometime in early May. My warranty will start when I take delivery of the car in May, not when I signed the contract and gave them the deposit in February.

Regarding access to the service area. I have always taken the few extra minutes necessary to type out my specific directions each time I have taken the car in for any service. I hand this to the service writer who inevitably gives it to the technician.

Now I've always got a record of what I wrote down and instructed them to fix or look at for ever the issue was, even normal maintenance items. This has proven issues I identified that the dealership said they couldn't replicate while they had the car.

vocus · February 2003

Agree about the warranty.

I always write out the stuff on paper before taking in the car, mostly so I don't forget while I'm there.

One time, this dealer messed up the same thing like 3 times on my car, and I was hot. I went on the 'net and translated everything I wrote into Spanish, and left bi-lingual directions. He was mad too, but it worked. The problem was fixed on the car when I got it back.

aggiedog · February 2003

I don't know where you live in this area but here are a couple of places to get estimates from that I've had experience with. Maaco in College Park did excellent work on my old Mazda 626. Someone tried to break into it at the door handle and when they were finished it looked like new. Also Capital Toyota's Body Shop in Landover Hills (just off the BW Parkway near the District line). They worked on my 4Runner and did a great job. The body shop manager told me that they work on anything that's been damaged, not just Toyota's.

nabi · February 2003

Thank you for inputs, guys. Do I have to report it to my insurance right away?

jjgittes · February 2003

I saw in a previous post someone picked up a new Maxima for $21k. Anyone else out there in Southern Calif. get a deal like that recently? Where? Thanks

jeff186 · February 2003

So is the '03 Max out of production, or are orders being taken? Best prices I've seen here in northern NJ for an '03 SE automatic are a tad under $20K, today's ads mark a new low in the prices being advertised. Most tempting, esp. if the 2.9% for 60 months is still available.

jjgittes · February 2003

wow, under $20k for an '03 Maxima SE? That's really good. Anyone out there actually pay this??

cheerioboy26 · February 2003

I would assume that 03 production is over, since Nissan has built almost 3000 2004 Maximas already in preparation for launch (from autonews.com)

berbel · February 2003

That was funny. I'm still laughing!!

berbel

jeff186 · February 2003

Go figure this. I just saw tv ads for the '03 Max on several stations this weekend. The ads show the car doors and make comparisons to a jet. They're promoting the current leasing program. Hmmm, it will be interesting to see what kind of rebate/financing Nissan offers in March, to move out the remaining stock of '03s.

vocus · February 2003

You might have liked it, but the service writer didn't...

eddie1028 · February 2003

Im thinking of trading in my 2001 Maxima GXE for a ES300, should I trade in before the new ones come out or will the price not go down that much.

vocus · February 2003

The trade-ins on Maximas are already pretty low, because of the rebates Nissan has been giving for the new ones. Also, it is an older design that is, in some cases, outclassed by newer rivals. Having some Maximas in rental car fleets doesn't help trade in either.

I would hold on to the car until it dies, because you don't really have any more to lose on it more than likely.

ahalledmunds · February 2003

I just replaced my OEM Toyos (215/55 16) with Michelin MXV4+'s which I don't like - not a great ride (surprisingly) over bumps and not as tight of handling as the Toyos, even if they are quiet. The MXV4+'s just aren't a good match for the Maxima I think. So I'm planning to exchange the tires at Costco where I got 'em last Friday. Costco can now get the Potenza RE950's which they couldn't even order as of last week in my size...

Spent time on Tirerack.com and it appears the RE950 and the Dunlap SP Sport A2 are the two tires of choice for the Maxima, even if they probably won't be as quiet as the Michelins (OK, I guess I'll live). A few comments about the RE950's disturb me about gas mileage being reduced. Anyone have any experience with that? Anyone with a 2000 GLE gone with either of these tires?

Thanks,
Andrew

sgrd0q · February 2003

I have a 2001 GLE with 32K miles, and I may have to replace the OEM Toyos (215/55 16) soon, as well.

RE950: I had them on another car and they were great, except I had to balance them very often. These tires would go out of balance every few thousand miles. Ended up being quite expensive in the long run.

Dunlop SP Sport A2: Never tried these tires, but I hear they may be a bit noisy. Also, sometimes they have quality issues. I would definitely go with the Sumitomo HTR+ instead (if I were prepared to put up with the noise and harshness). Note that you need to go to size 225/50 16 with the Sumitomo.

Why did you not like the Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus? Did you get the V or H rated ones. I hear the H rated ones have a fairly soft sidewall resulting in sloppier handling. What do you mean by "not great over bumps"? Is this compared to the Toyos? Is your tire pressure correct (33psi front 31 rear)?

I am curious because I am leaning towards these tires myself.

ahalledmunds · February 2003

The MXV4+'s are touring tires, so you expect them to ride better than an all-weather performance tire in exchange for some handling (mine are H-rated). You definitely give up the handling - the Michelins are much less responsive than the Toyos were. But the Michelins most definitely are quiet.

The ride is nice and smooth on the freeway though no better than the Toyos. But over bumps on side streets I can feel *everything* - my whole body feels the vibration. Grrrr! Was it really this bad with my old tires (I have a GLE not an SE)? Maybe I wasn't paying attention - I always though my GLE handled bumps better than this. In any case, to me there's no benefit in the ride with these Michelins - all I get in exchange for higher cost and poorer handling (and - I'm hearing - lousy wet weather traction once the Micheins wear) is a quiet ride and presumably long treadlife.

Costco initially jacked the pressure all the way up to 39 psi per tire ("they'll wear out faster at lower pressure" I was told later). Before even driving I lowered the pressure to 33 front/30 rear as my 2000 calls for. Lowering to 29/29 (another spec I saw on a tire quote) helps the ride a little but then handling gets worse and presumably so does wear.

I am disappointed that I can't seem to buy a tire that is quiet, rides well, has good traction (or does one exist at some astronomical price?). Oh, well, no free lunch I guess.

Andrew

sgrd0q · February 2003

ahalledmunds - thanks for your comments. I am surprised the Michelins are harsher over bumps - very interesting to know. This possibly has to do with the particular suspension on our cars. Please let us know if you exchange the tires, and what you think of the replacement.

Thanks!

cmd74 · February 2003

Hi- I was hoping to get some input on pricing for a 2003 Maxima SE with a Sunroof and Titanium Package options.

A local NYC area dealer quoted me a price of $23,091, which is below edmunds TMV & invoice and also lower than carsdirect.com's price.

With the 2004's soon to be in stock do you feel this is a good price? If I were to turn this into a lease what do you think a good monthly & down payment would be?

vocus · February 2003

Be careful with leasing, because the Maxima seems to lose its value pretty quickly because of stiff competition, rebates, and some fleet sales.

Also, invoice - the rebate should be a pretty good price for the 03 SE. Act quickly though, because Nissan already stopped building the 03.

mikey38 · February 2003

a local dealer here is advertising $4500 off sticker on all 03 Maxima's plus 0.9% financing..you might use that as a guidline..not sure what the sticker is on the one you are looking at. Make sure the price they give you includes all dealer fees. Good luck

stickguy · February 2003

I recently put a set of Dunlop SP sport A2s on my '99 Max SE. They work very well in all conditions (including snow), and I don't notice any more noise than before (the OEM Toyos). They also tend to be a good value, and I don't think you can go wrong with them.

I generally like Bridgestones too, but don't have any personal experience with the 950s

berbel · February 2003

I was considering trading my '00 SE on an '04 SE.
If that proves to be not feasible, I was considering upgrading my present car with after
market suspension, brakes, wheels, tires etc.

Have any of you other SE owners done this? If so,
specifically what have you chosen to do and was
it worth what you put into it?

I am considering Brembo's and maybe some Koni
suspension upgrades as well as Michelin Pilot Sport
tires matched to a set of TSW wheels.

berbel

vocus · February 2003

Make sure you consider the fact that you will not get any return on the aftermarket parts that you pay for. Something to think about...

habitat1 · February 2003

I agree with vocus and also consider that the Maxima is a FWD car. Nothing you can do is going to turn it into a 50/50 balanced BMW 3/5-series.

I myself am pleased that, for a FWD car, my 1995 SE is a decent handler, as is.

carguy71 · February 2003

I know there's debate as to whether strut braces do much for a car, but for what it's worth I put a front strut tower brace (FSTB) on my '00 SE a couple years ago and personally felt like it made a big difference when cornering. The car didn't lean as much going through the turn and it felt like it freed up the shocks/springs to do their jobs easier. The FSTB is relatively cheap and extremely easy to install. I know there's a rear brace available as well. I wanted to add lowering springs and shocks too, but my driveway pitch is such that I would completely bottom out if I did that. I've also wondered how heavy the stock 17 inch wheels are - does anyone know that info? Going to a lighter aftermarket wheel would free up unsprung weight and give your car a little more oomph from the lighter reciprocating mass.

vocus · February 2003

From what I have heard, the front strut brace only makes the steering feel stiffer. I have never driven a car with the brace, but I know alot of people who have them. A give-or-take modification, if you will.

lilelvis · February 2003

I'm looking to buy a GLE w/ meridian or loaded SE w/o nav. Anybody buy one recently and how much did you pay. thanks!.

Nissan Maxima

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