Nissan Maxima

maxappeal · May 2003

If anyone needs any TSB info, just email me. click on my user name.

My cousin was a service manager at a Nissan dealership and they routinely sent Maxima owners away giving them some BS excuse not to perform the TSB. I can give you the link to the TSB info you need so that the dealer cannot give you the brush-off!

This affects all Max owners 89-04. (ex., 02-03: hesitation that causes loss of power or delayed accel)

habitat1 · May 2003

I wasn't really trying to start a "my Maxima is quicker than your Maxima" debate. But since you asked, here is my summary:

1995 Maxima SE w/ 190 hp/ 205 ft lbs mated to a 5-speed manual was generally tested at 6.6-6.7 seconds 0-60. Why subsequent 4th generations (96-99) were tested slightly slower is beyond me. They added a little weight to the 3,001 lbs of the 1995 model year, but not significantly so.

2000/2001 Fifth generation Maxima's seemed slower to me. I test drove one just about every time I had my Maxima in for service and came away unimpressed. The 222 horsepower / 217 lb torque rating was through "tweaking" the same 3.0 liter engine as in the 1995. I was always suspect of the real power increase. The actual weight gain, however, could not be disputed. I believe the 2000/2001 was tested at around 7.0-7.2 0-60 for the 5-speed, considerably slower for the automatic.

The 2002/2003 SE 6-speed is quicker and faster than the 1995. Not significantly noticable from 0-60, as I believe it was tested at around 6.3. But I noticed that it continues to pull stronger at highway speeds, assuming you have it in the optimum gear. On the other hand, the 4-speed automatic version of the 2002/2003 absolutely did not feel as quick to me as my 1995 5-speed. Perhaps I'm just used to the quick start afforded by a manual transmission. Or perhaps the cars I tested had not been fully broken in. But there is no way I would trade the quickness and responsiveness of my 1995 5-speed for a 2003 automatic. Consider that my opinion, not a statement of fact.

One thing was clear to me in driving the 2003 Maxima 6-speed. Any more power is a waste of effort in a FWD platform. In spite of LSD, the car could not put it's power to the pavement effectively and the torque steer was unbearable. Again, perhaps I'm biased by my Honda S2000 that, with almost no torque, will significantly outaccelerate the Maxima. Same, however, for the less powerful, RWD, 330ci. Congrats to Nissan for taking FWD sedan performance about as far as anyone can with the 2003 Maxima 6-speed. If you want more, look to Infiniti, BMW or another RWD direction.

pat · May 2003

Actually any questions you have related to any TSBs can be answered right here in the Town Hall. Check out the discussion at this link: Technical Service Bulletins

pathtomax · May 2003

Hello,

I have not posted lately and wanted to get some feedback.

I have a 2000 GXE (yes, one of the 5% ever made!) with 87,000 miles on it. I generally commute about 120 miles/ day on the highways of NH. Everything was going along fine when my "Check Engine Light" came on last week.

The problems:
-One of the spark plugs blew out (I thought that they were scheduled for a 105,000 mile change?)
-Faulty Ignition Coil (took care of this bizarre knocking/tinny sound that I have had for about 50k miles that no one could figure out)
-Replaced Timing Belt

I hope that the problems are solved. Anything else I should be on the lookout for? These are the first problems I have ever had and I was hoping to keep this car for another 50k (at least).

Tire discussions: I replaced my originals with Michelin MXV4 Plus'. They are GREAT in NH snow.

Gas Dicussions: I attempt to use the Sunoco Ultra94 to reduce the engine knocking as much as possible.

habitat1 · May 2003

Replaced timing belt? I thought the 2000 Maxima had a timing chain (i.e. doesn't need to be replaced).

I had virtually no repairs (other than routine maintenance, tire replacement, etc.) for the first 7 years & 115,000 miles on my 1995 Maxima. In the 25k miles since then, I've had to replace the starter ($500+/-), water pump ($500 +/-), tempurature sensor ($150 +/-), and a couple of other minor items items. Overall, still very good for nearly 140k miles. Engine power is still great and I consistently get 28-30 mpg on the highway.

I would suggest that if you had knocking going on for 50k miles, you consider having the engine checked out by a mechanic. If it's O.K. another 50k miles for you shouldn't be a problem, especially given that you drive a lot of highway miles.

vanbo57 · May 2003

Hello all. First, to pathtomax - your max does not have a timing belt. It is a timing chain and should not have to be replaced for way over 87,000 miles.
OK, now re: my brakes - had the TSB on the rotors done, no questions asked at around 21,500 miles. I asked what will happen when they warp again in another 8K or so? Service said they will replace before the warranty is up if that happens. Fine. That was around 2,000 miles ago. Now, I have a scraping , crunching kind of noise after the brakes are heated up and the brake petal is half way pressed. The sound coinsides with the wheel turning, like there is a high spot somewhere. It's weird and definatly not right. Service also told me on the initial brake "visit" that my rear pads were 70 to 80% used up while the fronts only 40% or so. I am going to let service know that they should give me new pads as this shows me that there is some problem with the rear brakes which should not wear faster than the fronts. Do you agree so far? One more thing - all 4 calipers have surface rust on them. Looks crappy. Is this common on these cars?
Going in for all this Friday. By the way, other than these brake issues and the TSB on the front end part a while back, the car has really been great. Thanks much for your input.

warrenul · May 2003

It may be helpful to note what Diagnotic Trouble code was stored in your Max's ECM.

My SES indicator lit up on my vehicle approximately 6 months ago. The engine ran smoothly and I did not detect any difference in mileage or performance. Thinking that it was a loose gas cap or that it was due to heavy traffic conditions (prolong idling), I disconnected the battery for 2 minutes to turn SES light off.

It lit up again shortly thereafter and I reset the light again. However,I did notice that this time, the car was prone to stalling only when depressing clutch and letting up on the gas.

I knew that there was definitely a problem and brought it in to the dealer (SES light remained off). They put it on the OEM Diagnostic machine , however, no DTC codes were stored in the car's ECM control module. They performed a Idle Relearn Procedure and readjusted the idle a bit higher.

The light went on again 4 days after getting the car back from the dealer. This time they told me that a P0420 was stored on the ECU. Although this indicates a problem with the 3 Way Catalyst, they attributed the MIL indicator to a problem with the car's original ECM program. They updated the car with a new ECM program under Nissan TSB NTB00070 and sent me on my way. No other problems have been detected although it ghas been only one week.

I am aware that a TSB (NTB01059) is out for a Code P1320. This was released to correct faulty coils. This code was probally obtained on your car.

Vanbo: I have always noticed a fine surface rust on the rotors after a day or two, especially when the humidity is high. I don't think that this is harmful since this quickly wears aways after braking a few times. However, the roughness can be quite noticable until it wears away. I think that its really more susceptable on Maximas than on any other car that I have owned. Maybe it's caused by the quality of the steel used in the rotor?

Good luck on getting your brakes cvered under warranty. BTW. Is warranty up on time or miles?

kyleknicks · May 2003

it is my experience that there's always rust forming on the rotors on my maxima.... if the car sat there even for a day.... but after driving for a lil bit, the rust is gone...

can others confirm this on their maxima's?

cheerioboy26 · May 2003

will happen to any car that has an open rim design and gets wet, either from rain or just moisture like dew. when you first brake it comes right off - no worries.

vanbo57 · May 2003

I understand about rust on the rotors but what about the outside, (the side that you see when you look at the wheeles)ofthe calipers? Am I the only one or is this common?

p100 · May 2003

Yes, rust on calipers is very common as many manufacturers do not even paint new calipers, which are made of cast metal (usually cast iron). Surface rust actually protects these calipers from further corrosion and does not degrade the caliper in any way. A similar brake component which often has rust on its surface is the master cylinder. Other components on cars which are castings and not painted and have surface rust are front wheel hub/knuckle assemblies. If you take your front wheels off, you will see that the hubs are covered with surface rust.

So as long as the parts are castings, the surface rust does not matter.

kennyg5 · May 2003

Does anyone know where I can purchase a DC/AC converter that plugs into the car's cigarette lighter socket and converts it to house current so that I can run a laptop? I have seen a 125 volt outlet on the Avalon, and think that is a good feature. My Max has 2 lighter sockets and changing one to a 125 volt outlet will be useful. Kindly advise.

petrnyc · May 2003

http://shop.store.yahoo.com/priorityelectronics/lapdccarpowa.html

PS... consider The Pat Metheny Group for real jazz.

dklanecky · May 2003

Walmart-Kmart-Most auto parts stores. They're widely available in lots of locations, if you don't want to wait for an internet order.

jboucheb · May 2003

Sorry to intrude like this folks, but does anyone know of a way to have these messages emailed to me? For example, whenever somebody posts something new or replys to somebody, I'd like to get an email to my Yahoo account.

I honestly don't have time to log into each and every forum I subscribe to in order to read the messages. Can someone help me out?

Thanks.

p100 · May 2003

Nissan recommends 5W30 weight oil for all around use in these cars. If you live in warm climate like Florida, where temperatures almost never dip below 32 F, 10W30 or 10W40 is preferable. Because summer is fast approaching, I would recommend 10W30 (or 10W40 for very hot climates like in Arizona). I use 10W30 in my 98 SE. I only use Castrol GTX oil.

monte4 · May 2003

Habitat not trying to be mean but you seem to find the worst test for other year maximas and use the best for your paticular car. The 00 manual best was 6.7 sec to 60 and it had a higher trap speed than your 19595 it was 94 vs your 92 best both by Motor Trend.Well cool habitat but the 02 manual wast tested at 6 flat not 6.3 and actual owners have gotten better (you have to look at trap speeds which determine power 7-8 mph more for the 02 which is great. No need in comparing mag. stats go to Maxima.org and look at actaul timeslips and you will see that your 95 manual although quick cant run with the 02/03 auto and definatley not the manual. I prefer real world situations which speak for how most of us drive. Some of us prefer autos to manuals that doesnt make anyone more of an enthusiast. What do you think of these new front drivers that have times nearly identical to the best of the S2000 the Neon SRT-4?

habitat1 · May 2003

Please be assured that I wasn't trying to stack the statistics deck in favor of my 1995 Maxima. We are in agreement that the 2002/3 6-speed Maxima was the quickest Maxima, regardless of by exactly how much. With regard to the rest, I also concede that my ability to directly control gear changes, especially down shifts, makes my Maxima seem more responsive than the automatic Maximas I've driven in many of my "real world" driving situations (e.g. like manuevering in and merging into beltway traffic). If your "real world" situation is doing all out 1/4 mile sprints at the track, I concede you may get entirely different results.

Regrarding the Neon, I'm sure it is impressive in it's own way. But I'm not sure I'd want to be accelerating a 215 hp FWD Neon around a curve. At least not without increasing my life insurance.

P.S. How's your wife's 350Z doing?

bahhumbug · May 2003

Hats off to warrenul for his description of removing the air filter. My 2001 GXE took 3 tries to remove it. The clips weren't the first operation but the last. For those of you attemtping this operation, DON'T GIVE UP. Got a mailer today from my Nissan Dealer, the filter price was $24.95. Not putting mine back in because of the improvement in the air conditioner. GREAT improvement. Worked good before NOW ITS GREAT. No glove box finisher on mine either. THANKS AGAIN!!!!!

monte4 · May 2003

The 350 is doing fine it has 5,000 miles it is sort of broken in, we have had 2 probs with it so far. The HID went out on the drivers side and the grease streak on the windows when you roll them down otherwise we love it. We alternate frequently 3 times a week because she is one of those people that are as meticulous about her car as I am so I know she will take car of it.

vanbo57 · May 2003

Update on my post #6898;
The grinding / crunching noise that was coming from the car when brake pedal depressed 1/2 way after a few miles was - are ya ready - wheel bearings. Yes, at 23,000 miles. These things can happen. Cost me only time of course. What bugs me is that service tells me that the reason my rear brakes are wearing faster than the fronts is that the rear pads are smaller,(shorter) than the fronts so they will wear more evenly. What a load of crap but I guess that's whatit is.

kyleknicks · May 2003

vanbo.. they told u that as the reason why your rear brakes are wearing faster than your front? what stealerships will make up to just give people an excuse not to fix the problem. My front brakes are wearing faster than my rear and i assume that's what other maxima owners experiences are too.... that's what suppose to happen... front brakes do most of the work..

tuneful · May 2003

Hi folks,
Im shopping for a car and am considering 03 Altima vs. 03 Maxima vs. 04 Maxima.
Im looking for a tolerably smooth and quiet ride (tho I realize that these were designed as sport sedans  I know to avoid the SE model o f altima) and good seat position. Also want good build quality. I have seen a number of complaints about the latter in the owner reviews of Altima.
Re the seat position, the telescopic steering on the 03 Alt and new Max is a real plus. But I just dont know if the difference in these cars (power and price) would be worth it. Im not a performance driver. I can get a pretty good position with an 8-way power seat.
Also, I heard that 03 Maxs were built in Japan and the other 2 are not.
Thanks for any advice!

p100 · May 2003

From what you are describing, you may be happiest with a new 03 Maxima GLE. This is the top of the line Max model with standard leather seats, Bose stereo, auto climate control, and softer ride than the Max SE. It also has the highest resale value of any Max model (up to 03 model year of course), and it is built in Japan. You can buy a nice one for about $ 25K if you look around. There is still plenty of these left on dealers lots.

There is not enough data available on the new 04 Max model to know how problematic the car may be. I would be cautious about buying the first year model built in the US until they have time to work out the bugs. Also, the price increase on the 04 model is substantial. To get one equipped like the 03 GLE, you would have to spend at least $ 32K.

Altima is a smaller, less plush vehicle than Max and carries a lower resale value. Its interior looks really cheap compared to a Maxima.
A well equipped 03 model with a V6 3.5 liter engine retails for almost as much as the 03 Max GLE. The resale value will be much less, however.

blackstone3 · May 2003

I have a 2K Maxima SE with 17 inch tires. Pep Boys has a replacement tire that is close to the original size. It is 225/55/17. Would the differance in 5mm in the height of the tire change the car's handling, spedometer, or overall look of the car? Thanks for any info.

twinsteve · May 2003

blackstone3 -- yes, it makes a huge difference...you should always replace a tire with one of the EXACT SAME width and profile as the other tires on your car. "Close" isn't good enough.

prayerfor · May 2003

First, the 55 in 225/55/17 does not represent a sidewall height of 55mm. It represents that the sidewall height is 55% of the tread width.

Second, you don't need to be exact if replacing all four tires. +/- 3% in total tire diameter is the generally-accepted threshold to maintain accurate speedo/odo readings and preserve correct functioning of other vehicle systems (traction control, ABS, etc). However if replacing just one tire, it is indeed quite important to match the diameter of the other three. It is for this reason that replacing all four tires together is recommended.

habitat1 · May 2003

I agree with twinsteve if you are looking to only replace one tire - they should always be exactly the same width and profile as the others.

However, if your question is regarding replacing all 4, the answer is "it depends". The increased height (radius) of the tire is 11.25mm not 5mm. You get that by multiplying the 225 mm width by the 50% vs. 55% aspect ratio for height. Overall tire diameter is increased from 25.9 inches to about 26.8 inches or roughly 3.5%. That would mean your spedo and odo would be reading too low (i.e. 60 mph on the spedo is really more like 62 mph). You could partially offset this error by dropping to a 215/55 size tire.

The handling differences are probably more dependent upon the manufacturer, speed rating and tread design of the replacement tire than a 1/2 step change in aspect ratio from 50 to 55. For example, the OEM "W" rated 205/55 & 225/50 Bridgestone Pole Position tires on my Honda S2000 are rated considerably better handling than a lot of the 40/45 series "V" or "Z" rated tires. Usually, however, the higher the sidewall, the worse the handling in hard corners.

Hope this helps - also suggest you log on to Tirerack.com for lots of usefull info and prices.

buzzard4 · May 2003

I purchased a new '03 GLE last week. I noticed a vibration on the way home, like a wheel was out of balance. I returned it to the dealer, and they could not get the wheels to balance. They took it to another shop with more sensitive equipment, and they determined 3 of the 4 tires were out of spec. The dealer said that they have to get the tires from Nissan, and they would take over a week to arrive. Meanwhile, when they remounted the bad tires, the vibration got much worse, to the point that they agreed it was best not to drive it. I have been without the new Max for almost 2 weeks waiting for the new tires. Frustrating! Nissan customer assistance was no help in reaching a faster resolution, either.

Has anyone else had a similar experience?

p100 · May 2003

Yes, I had a similar experience. Unlike you, I noticed this during test driving two 03 Maxima SE 6 speed brand new cars. One had a distinct steering wheel vibration at 60 MPH, the other had somehwat less vibration around 65 MPH and the hood shook violently up and down. I was very serious about buying one of these vehicles but this was really disappointing to me. Even if the problem turns out to be just tire balance, there is no reason why two vehicles should have the same vibration problem at the same speed if proper QC was in place. This smells of serious quality problems with Bridgestone tire manufacturing. If I am not mistaken, GLE models use Bridgstone Turanza tires as original equipment and SE use models use Bridgstone Potenzas.

In your case the solution is obviously to replace all of the tires on the car. If I were you I would demand they go with a different brand tires as well. You cannot go wrong with Michelin Pilots, for example.

I have read quite a few complaints about vibration problems with the new Maximas, most of them problably due to lousy tires. When one buys a new car, few people feel like spending $ 600 to replace all four tires. My 98 Maxima SE came with Toyo tires. They lasted almost 60K miles and I never had problems with them. They needed first rebalancing after about 25K miles due to natural wear. There is absolutely no reason why Nissan should use shoddy tires on their new vehicles. They already lost me as a repeat customer. You must ask yourself this question: if they do this with tires, what other car parts are of dubious quality as well?

By the way, I believe that Nissan should have installed four good quality tires on your car after the discovery of defective tires and they could have purchased these in any local tire store. You would be better off with Michelins anyway. Why would they let you wait two weeks? This is unbelievable.

aggiedog · May 2003

Here is a site that lets you plug in your old and new tire sizes and it tells you what the speed difference would be. I may have got it from someone on this board (Thanks) but I can't remember. Don't let the miata name throw you off. It works for all tires.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

vanbo57 · May 2003

I will most likely replace my Potensa's with the Michelin Pilot Sports, (I think that's the model) before next winter. I have read on Tirerack .com that these are the best I'm going to get for my '01 Max - there are a lot of reviews on that site. It will be very expensive, probably over a grand after ballance, align, etc, etc but from what I read and hear, these are the best - excellent wet as well as dry. Probably won't be "great" for snow but, either were the Potensas.

p100 · May 2003

I installed four new Michelin Pilots on my 99 Mazda 626 ES V6. The tire size was P205-60 HR-15.

The tires have been excellent so far, but the ride is very firm. Also, they wear rather quickly and you must rotate them frequently, about every 5K miles, or the front ones will wear out in half the time as the rear ones. I do not expect more than about 35K miles from mine, although Sears gave me 50K tread wear warranty on these.

Expect less mileage for a V rated tire, and nobody will give you any tread wear warranty on that one.

One other tire I can recommend is Toyo Proxess. I also like Michelin MXVs which are softer riding than Pilots.

habitat1 · June 2003

My 1995 Maxima SE came with Eagle RSA 215-60HR 15". I replaced them at 55k miles with the same tire and then at 110k miles with the Toyo Proxess in July 2001. After 30k miles on the Toyos, they seem to be wearing about the same as the RSA's and offer comparable or slightly better handling. They cost me $361.40 for a set of four, including balancing and mounting ($79 per tire alone).

Frankly, I believe anywhere near $1,000 for set of tires for a FWD Maxima (let alone with only 15" wheels) is a big waste of money. That's more than a set of top of the line "Y" rated S-03 Pole Position tires for my Honda S2000. That's also more than replacement tires for an M3 or 540i 6-speed.

I love my Maxima, but a sports car it is not. There are very good tires out there that will run $400-$500 or less including balance and mounting. Putting a set of $1,000 tires on a Maxima isn't going to turn it into something it isn't.

berbel · June 2003

I recently purchased a set of these to replace the
Potenza RE 92's which were OEM on my SE.

Critique: These are ultra high performance tires
which have proven to be excellent on wet roads
even at interstate speed limits (and slightly above) They have a treadwear rating of 400 (which
is great for this level of tire) and a heat rating
of AA. If you choose a tire of this nature, expect
tradeoffs. They do ride noticeably "harder" and they are "noisier" than I expected they would be.
I have not had them on the Max long enough to truly
assess how they are wearing. Would I buy this tire
again? Probably not! In spite of their pluses, they
are too noisey to suit me. I would more than likely
go back to a "V" rated tire or a high quality "H"
rated tire in lieu of these. Just my two cents....

berbel

p100 · June 2003

I absolutely agree with habitat1 when it comes to spending a lot of money on ultra high performance tires for a Maxima. I chose a set of Toyo Proxes TPT tires as replacement for my 98 Maxima original Toyos and they provide good quiet ride and decent handling. As I mentioned in the post above, I have a set of Michelin Pilots on my Mazda 626 and they are a lot harsher riding tire than the Toyo, plus they wear out a lot quicker. I got 58K miles out of the original Toyos on my Maxima. Do not expect more than 35K miles out of the Michelins Pilots on the Mazda. The total cost of four Toyos (P215-55HR-16) was about $ 460 including mounting and balancing.

kyleknicks · June 2003

i just recently put a set of Dunlop A2's on my 2000 maxima gle with the 16in wheels and paid exactly $502 ..which includes tires, balancing, stems and taxes. so far, i've only put 500 miles on them and am very happy with them... not that i put too much thought into the tires.. afterall, it's only tires.. i would never spend 1000 bucks for tires.. that's why i didn't look at the Pilot sports... hope that helps

monte4 · June 2003

I agree with Habitat as well but with odd size and availability of the tires for the 00-03 SE 17 inchers they are expensive. Stay away from the Potenza when its time to replace they are expensive and tend to have a balancing problem I too had that issue on my new 03 Max.

vanbo57 · June 2003

Sorry all. I originaly posted my tire size as 225 50 15. I meant 17.
Well, anyway, thanks s for the input. I have read that the ride is harsh with the Pilots which could be tough as the ride over bumps is already harsh - my Max is an SE. I've got just over 24K on the Potenzas now and, should make 30K. Never had a balance problem with them. Rotate and ballance every 6 - 7K. What I have read, (mostly on TireRack.com is that the Pilots do have a better wear rating than the Potenzas and I believe, the Goodyears as well. I'll have to see what my wallet tells me when the time comes. I know a grand is a lot for tires but the Pilots are really supposed to be a good and very safe tire in the wet as well as the aformentioned long wearing nature.
Thanks.

giant56 · June 2003

I do notice that the Potenzas are a little choppy at 70-80 mph. I wonder if it is the air or lack of air that is in the tire(s). Should I follow the air pressure recommendation on the tire or the one located in my vehicle? My 98 Max SE w/16 Pirellis had a better ride and I am a little confused by this. Thanx in advance for any response.

dklanecky · June 2003

A tire is manufactured to be used (potentially) on lots of different vehicles.

Each vehicle has it own specific design requirements so the correct answer to your question it to always follow the vehicle manufacturers requirements.

da763 · June 2003

For what it's worth, I recently replaced the RE92s on my 2000 Max SE with the Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires. All 4, from the Tire Rack, with shipping, mounting and balancing, came to just under $1,000.

They are noisier than the RE92s in dry weather, but the grip in all weather conditions is significantly better than the Bridgestones. Strangely, they did seem to quiet down after a few hundred miles - maybe they need to warm up and get broken in?

I was very happily surprised at how well they did in the snow (I live in Northern Virginia). Whereas the RE92s were absolutely hopeless in snow or slush conditions (felt like I was driving on ice all the time), the Michelins gave me great confidence. Considering the winter we had, I'm even happier with my decision to sink the big bucks on them.

p100 · June 2003

Recommend you rotate your tires at least every 5K miles for even wear. I did not do this for about 15K initial miles with my Michelin Pilots and was surprised to see that the front tires were halfway worn while the rear ones were like new. I guess this may work two ways. If you do not rotate the tires all, you will probably go through two front tires for each rear tire. The rear tires always last much longer on any front wheel drive car, especially one with fairly strong engine.

st_pu · June 2003

How Nissan Maxima 2004 designers managed to get 40 feet for Turning Diameter if Maxima 1999 had Turning Circle: 34.8 ft.? Dimentions are not so different: Length: 193.5 in. Width: 71.7 in. for maxima 2004, and Length: 189.4 in. Width: 69.7 in. for Maxima 1999

p100 · June 2003

I bet the larger turning diameter has a lot to do with larger wheels/tires on the 2004 Maxima. I know that 99 Maxima used 15 inch wheels for GXE and GLE, and 16 inch for SE. The 2004 model wheels are 18 inch for SE (not sure for the SL, but I think they are 17 inch), Larger wheels/tires mean less clearance between the tire/inner fender when turning, so the turning angle of each wheel had to be reduced, hence the larger turning diameter.

A good example of how large wheels/tires will increase turning diameter is my 95 Nissan SE V6 king cab 4x4 pickup. It came with huge 31 X 10.5-R15 tires (these are even bigger than P265 R75-15) from the factory. To provide sufficient clearance, they use wheel stops on the truck frame that prevent front wheels from turning beyond certain point. This truck has a turning diameter like a bus! It can be annoying sometimes, especially because when the wheel hubs contact the metal stops, there is a grinding metallic noise like someting is breaking apart. If I went with smaller tires, like P235 -75 R15, I could adjust the wheel stops for a much tighter turning diameter.

nissangirl · June 2003

Hello Townhall, it's been a while!!

I'm interested in getting the wood grain covers for door arm rests, dash covers, etc. Any suggestions where I might find such at a reasonable price. Is this stuff recommended? What are some of your feelings about this stuff. My husband has it on his path, but it came that way, but he really likes it.

Nice to be back.

perna · June 2003

I personally think it looks nasty, and actually dismissed buying an Olds Bravada because it comes on all of them.

I've read a lot on maxima.org, etc., and the 2-3 posters I've seen who installed it all wished they hadn't. I have your car's twin (Grey Lustre 2003 SE), and I couldn't imagine ruining the black and titanium interior with plood. Ugh, no!

But, YMMV.

prayerfor · June 2003

Our '03 Max SE came with the wood trim kit. At first I thought I wouldn't like it for being too tacky and obviously fake. I actually like it and think it looks quite nice, and IMHO it succeeds at taking the interior upscale a bit.

If I was starting from scratch, I'd install about half the pieces and leave the other half off. The ones I'd put on are the center console pieces and the door switch pieces; the ones I'd skip are the side vent covers, the pieces that are left and right of the steering column below the gauges, and the clock piece. I'd basically use the big pieces and skip the smaller ones.

Not sure where to source the kits though.

monte4 · June 2003

You hit it on the nose bud as far as the turning diameter, it is do to excatly what you said. The 00/01 with 17 inch rims, 02/03 SE's and 04's all have that horrible 40 ft turn radius.

ssn171 · June 2003

Nissangirl

My parents just put in a wood dash kit in their 2000 SE several weeks ago. I would suggest getting a molded kit if you decide on getting one. They look much better IMHO but cost more. I think my Dad got it from autoanything.com By the way, I posted some pics of their new dash at http://www.cardomain.com/member_pages/view_page.pl?page_id=339589

Sean

Nissan Maxima

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