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Drive safe.
I had taken the car in for it's 120k service (it was running perfectly) when I dropped it off. I picked it up the next day, and drove away, about 3 miles later, all the warning lights came on and it went into "limp home" mode.
Took it back to the dealer and he the ignition coils were bad and had to be replaced at a cost of ~$700.
I had them replace them and then asked what could have caused them to go bad all of a sudden when the car was running perfectly when I dropped it off.
His admitted that the coils become somewhat fragile after a long life a lot of miles and the technician probably damaged them when they removed them to replace the spark plugs.
They agreed to cover the repair and I bought a new Murano from the same dealer about a year earlier.
There are some good Nissan dealers out there!
They replaced them free of charge because you bought a vehicle from them recently and your repeat business is worth $ 240 to them. They may even have a way of claiming these under warranty for all we know.
My typing mistake on the timing of the events.
The Murano was bought a year later July 26, 2003.
The coil repair was in July 2002. The two events are not linked, except that I went back to the dealer and bought another vehicle from them
FYI, Most dealers actually charge the retail price to their customers, not their cost price.
So according to the other dealer's quote, it takes 1.5 hours just to remove and replace the coils. This means that replacing the spark plugs should be twice that - or 3 hours. At $ 90 an hour, this is $ 270 labor to replace 6 spark plugs. The retail cost of platimum OEM spark plugs for my 98 SE is $ 13.20, or $ 79.20 for a set of six. Assuming the cost of the plugs for the 2000 model is the same, the total cost of replacing six spark plugs is $ 359.20, plus applicable county sales tax.
I do not know about you, but I bet that most people who read this forum would consider $ 360 charge to replace 6 spark plugs in a Maxima unreasonable. If so, why is it reasonable to expect 1.5 hours of labor charge to replace six coils? In my original post I was trying to illustrate the dealer profit for what I believe is at most 1/2 hour of work. Keep in mind that the 15 minute estimate for each coil replacement most likely includes the time required to get the car into the service bay, getting the right tools, disconnecting the battery, removing coil cover, etc. This is done just once, not all over again for each coil. So I would say that our local Nissan dealer is more honest.
Some advice when replacing the spark plugs:
Remove one coil and plug at a time. This way you do not have to label the coils for correct reinstallation. When removing the coil electrical connectors, fully press in the locking tab to avoid breaking the connector. Each coil is held in place with two machine screws with an 8 mm hex head. I used an 8 mm nutdriver to loosen the screws, then used a magnetic Phillips screwdriver to remove them. Using a magnetic screwdriver is especially important for the rear coil screws because you can drop a screw and it may be difficult to retrieve it.
Take care when removing coils after removing the mounting screws. The coils have a long plug boot and must be lifted gently to avoid damaging them. Rear coils were easier to remove for some reason.
You need a 5/8 inch(or 16 mm) spark plug socket with a good rubber boot, a 12 inch extension, and a ratchet to remove and install the plugs. To avoid crossthreading, I always screw in new plugs by turning the extension by hand until the new plug seats. Only then I will tighten it with a ratchet. To get a specfiied torque, you need a small 3/8 drive torque wrench. The specified tightening torque is 14-22 ft-lbs. Make sure your plug socket rubber boot is strong enough to hold the plug in place vertically because the plug wells are very deep.
For the rear coils, you need to loosen and move out of the way several small engine components to have enough clearance to remove the coils and plugs.
I hope this helps. I used the OEM replacement spark plugs. They are not cheap and even sparkplugs.com wants almost $ 11 a piece for them (plus postage). Nissan dealer retail price is about $ 13 a piece. After 68k miles, there was visible wear on the center electrodes of the plugs.
P100, I thought the OEM plugs (platinum?) for the Max are good for 100k miles. Why did you change yours at 68k miles? Do you know if there is a TSB for the coils for the 95-99 and/or later model Maximas?
I have a 97 and 03 Max, and several years ago I received a notice from Nissan (I think it was from the dealer rather than the manufacturer) indicating that the "check engine light" in the 97 Max needed to be replaced (probably something about the oxygen sensor). Since I never had trouble with the light, I ignored the notice. My philosophy is to keep up maintenance according to recommended schedules and not to fix something which isn't broken. So far I have been lucky ;-) Knock on wood.
How is the 2003 Maxima? Any known major problems?
I see 2003 GXE Automatic cars advertised for about $17k with about 13k miles on them. If I can get the price lowered to $16.4K will that be a good deal?
As to my 2003, which I have owned for 11 months and now has 5k miles, the car has been trouble free. The only "complaint" I have is that it hesitates for a split-second when you accelerate hard from a full stop. Since I am not an aggressive driver, this doesn't really bother me. The one place where I think the 03 is inferior is the "premium" Bose system. The 97 has amplified Bose speakers, but I don't think the 03 has them, though it comes with a bass heavy subwoofer. The 03 has very user friendly steering wheel mounted buttons which control all audio functions, including changing CD discs on the dash-mounted changer.
My main concern about the 03 is the super bright HIDs, which are magnets for thieves (depending on where you live). I was told that they can be stolen in less than 5 minutes and it costs over $3k to replace them and the damage to the hood.
This is an out-of-town dealer and I need to make up my mind on this real soon.
Thanks in advance for any suggestions / advice. I intend to do a CARFAX report before going there.
My 1995 Maxima SE 5-speed (placed into service September 1994) now has 143,500 miles. Overall, I have been very pleased with it's performance and how it's held up. However, the past 12-18 months have required several expensive repairs, suggesting it may be prudent to consider a replacement:
Miles 0 - 50,0000 (3yrs,7months): Total routine service = $928.96 Repairs = $0
Miles 50,000 - 100,000 (2yrs,8mo.): routine maintenance = $1,750.16. Repairs = $0.
Miles 100,000 - 143,500 (2yrs,7months): routine maintenance = $2,095.61. Repairs = $2,173.91
The repairs consist of: engine temp coolant gage ($190), water pump ($600), starter ($440), front axle boots ($600) and miscellaneous other items. All of these repairs have occurred in the last 20,000 miles (123,500+). Note - the above figures do not include self performaed oil changes at every 4,000 +/- miles. I also put tires and brakes into "routine".
What do you think? Time for the bone yard? I still like the car, but I'm wondering what the nest 20,000 miles have in store.
Besides, any $ you put into it at this point won't come back out. If it is a 2K car, another 1.5K in repairs and it is still a 2K car.
Move it on to a new owner, and get the 5 series you really want (good deals now on left over '03s!).
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
I know you love the BMW 530i, which you may still be able to get great deals on (I heard $3k below invoice). Had BMW offered this kind of discount when I was shopping last year, I would have bought one myself. My concern is that BMWs tend to be less reliable than the Max, and the repair cost can be quite expensive.
The G35 is also a good choice, but it is rear wheel drive, and you have to pay close to MSRP. Since the G35 shares Max's engine, one should expect great performance and reliability. If you want a Max clone, get the I35, although we don't know if Infiniti is going to keep that car, and if so, for how long.
The TL-S may also be a good candidate, but I am leery about the transmission problem that some TL owners have been complaining about. The 04 TL looks good, is more powerful and luxurious, but you may have to deal with fresh design bugs and pay MSRP (at least for the first 6 months).
Part of me has wanted to keep the Maxima as long as possible, just to see how high I can get the odometer up to. Fortunately, the car still looks good, so it's not as though I'm embarassing myself driving to a business meeting in an old Crown Victoria. However, another part of me recalls that when my old Acura Integra started to go, it went downhill very fast and took me for $5,000 in repairs in it's last year and a half. And, as stickguy points out, when I finally handed the keys to charity, my deductable donation wasn't any greater than it would have been before dishing out that $5,000.
Although $2,000+ in repairs in the last 12-18 months isn't cheap, that's still about half of the depreciation that would occur driving a new 530i off the showroom floor. And, in fairness, that needs to be balanced out with $0 in repairs for the first 7+ years and 120k miles. I suspect some of these items might have gone earlier, if I did more stop and go city driving. We had to replace the starter in our Trooper at 5 years and 50k miles.
As far as possible replacements go, the former 530i would have been at the top of my wish list, had I been able to get one equiped the way I want at $2-3k under invoice. What's left here are non-sport automatics. The G35 sedan looks still rub me the wrong way. I should probably drive one with a 6-speed before ruling it out. Forget the I35. I would never have paid for an overpriced, undersuspensioned Maxima in 1995 and I sure wouldn't now. The Acura TL also doesn't do it for me, although I should probably withhold final judgement until seeing and driving the 2004 6 speed in person. I just don't see much of a "premium" in a gussied up FWD Accord made in Ohio. The other option might be a 330i 6-speed with the upgarded sport "performance package". I need to determine whether the smaller size will work, given that I prefer having a car alternative to the Trooper for shorter family trips.
Oddly, 3 months ago I would have said no way to the 2004 Maxima. I've now seen 4-5 on the road (mostly black SE's) and they look pretty good. If I were going FWD for practicality and still looking for good performance, the Maxima might still be at the top of my list, especially at a price closer to invoice than MSRP.
My current plan is to hang on to the Maxima through the remainder of the year and consider replacing it in 4-6 months after I better evaluate some of the newer options, including the new 5-series. That will also allow for evaluation of the new Maxima relative to whether or not it has first year bugs. I could change my mind quickly if I get stranded on the Beltway. Or I might go back to my original plan of 200k or bust if I don't!
Thanks again for your input.
kenny...FYI...the G35 and TL are both built here...your point doesnt make sense in nixing the max.
My 1995 Maxima appeared to have better fit and finish quality than the similar vintage US built Accords and Camrys. Although the Accord and Camry, having now been built in the US for a decade or more, seem to now be back up to par, the early US production ones were not.
The BMW Z3 and Mercedes M-Class, both built in the US had horrific quality problems relative to their respective standards for German built cars. If I'm not mistaken, the M-Class was recently rated by JD Powers as the second worst vehicle in initial quality out of about 100+ vehicles tested. Coincidental or linked?
On the other hand, I have not heard much either way about Nissan quality with respect to the Altima and may have even heard that the plant received some awards. Would I rather the Maxima be built in Japan at a plant of the same world renowned quality as my Honda S2000 was produced at? Sure. But perhaps I should give the new Maxima another 4-6 months to see how it fares.
So I'm not anti-American, just pocket-book prudent.
I know the Altima/Maxima are built in Tenn.
Why would they build the G35 in Tenn with the Maxima and Altima. They aren't even built on the same platform.
Built in the US on the FF-L platform: Altima, Maxima, Murano.
Built on the FM platform (couple of variations) in Japan: 350Z, G35 sedan and coupe, FX35/45.
Does anyone know of any decent dealerships in the Washington, DC area were they know the meaning of customer service?
In your experience, is this something you notice on a regular basis? On moderate acceleration? Mainly when cornering? Do you have to drive it "all out" as if you were a C&D test driver to notice it? I'm actually a fairly steady driver, but just like to have a decent handling car for those times when you feel like pushing it a little.
My purchase date is still a little in the future, so I haven't driven this car yet. When the time comes, I'll drive it and see for myself. But, test drives are somewhat limited, and I would really appreciate your real world take on this issue. I did drive the previous version, the 2003, and liked it except for the lack of independent rear suspension.
Thanks for any insights you can offer.
Been driving mine for about 2 months now. With no problems as of yet. I haven't really pushed it around the corners like I do the police cruiser I drive, but I love the feel of it. I haven't felt the front-drive torque pull on cornering if that is what you are talking about. Guess I am afraid to really push this new baby like I do the crusier. But, I can tell its going to handle a lot better than that heavy duty crown vic.
Altima and new Maxima are the same basic platform, and made in the US. Prior Max was Japan. I35 Infiniti is still on the prior Max platform, and built in Japan.
Murano is on the Altima platform also, but I'm not sure where it is made. Murano has nothing to do with the FX, other than vaguely similar style.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
The FF-L platform is a front-wheel drive platform, with and AWD option on the Murano.
The FM platform is a rear-wheel drive platform, with AWD on the FX and the G35 sedan optional.
I'm not sure what else to say.
http://www.infinitinews.com/infiniti/news/products/relmatt2003013- 195833.shtml
"All FX45 models utilize an enhanced version of the FM (Front Mid-ship) platform."
http://www.infinitinews.com/nissan/news/products/relmatt200211191- 011.shtml
"The new Nissan Murano’s unique, modern design is made possible, in part, by the use of Nissan’s new FF-L (front engine, front-drive) platform, which it shares elements with the award-winning 2002 Altima. "
The Altima, Maxima, Quest and Murano are based ont the same platform. Front wheel drive. AWD is optional on the Murano.
They have different platforms because, well, One platform is front wheel drive, and the other is, ummm...rear wheel drive.