Oldsmobile Intrigue

stalling98 · February 2005

hey guys whats up

well i had an in 98 intrigue sdn at 166,000 miles
i just got it last december from a car dealer for a good price.for the first week nothing strange about it until it stalls on me.i just had my catalyctic converter change and a tune up.it still stalls from a full stop or even runnin at 70mph.i dont know if its only dirt in the gas tank or something.please help me out.its not the alternator because i have to wait for at least 10-20 minutes then it will start up again.

cornellpinoy · February 2005

My parents' 1992 Olds 88 has the 3800 V6, similar to the one in your car. They also had a stalling problem similar to yours. The dealer replaced the crankshaft position sensor and the ignition module.

dekester · February 2005

Does anyone offer exhaust systems? Seems the sites I go to don't mention the Intrigue 3.8 specifically....Would anything for the Impala/Grand Prix work? Not looking for a true dual exhaust system as I don't want to cut the rear valence for the second tip, but maybe a dual that exits in the stock location?

Also, Baer Brakes makes slotted & cross-drilled OEM-style replacement rotors. They're made out of better grade materials than the factory offerings. Been waiting for a response to my e-mail to them on price and availability....

Deke

millandj · February 2005

I have a 2000 GLS with just over 33K miles. I've been using the standard front to rear rotation but have noticed a lot of noise and now vibrations at over 40 mph. I've had the tires rebalanced and checked/rechecked pressure. Running them at 32 psi. I've read about "cupping" problems here and other forums....a couple of questions.
1. How do I narrow this down to tire cupping? in other words what do I look for?
2. I've also read I can rotate left to right to correct/mitigate the cupping. My local garage guy says this is bad juju for radials...opinions?
3. I've also got front rotor grooving pretty bad. Is turning them an option or should I just replace? Pads have over 50% life left.

thanks!
Red

evandro · February 2005

Yep, I bought an used Intrigue at 37000mls with OEM tires which were badly cupped. After 25000mls on a set of Yokohama Avid Touring, they're as round as new. Which allows me to say that it's not the suspension set up, but a bad Eagle LS set. It just so happens that the Eagle LS doesn't seem to be a half-decent tire...

Have I told you how silent the Yokohama is after a couple of months riding the Goodyear? ;-)

ab348 · February 2005

I have to agree. I couldn't stand my Eagle LS tires after about 30K miles and replaced them with a set of Michelins. Huge difference. A lot less road noise, better ride, just a better choice overall. Lose the LS.

vanman1 · March 2005

If the Eagles aren't rotated properly and on a timely basis, they wear badly and prematurely. I have had 2 tire dealers tell me the same thing. They aren't bad tires but if not taken care of, they can give you problems. We got 82,000 kms thought the last 20K were noisy.

I got the Goodyear Comfort Treds now, excellent tire and really good in the snow this morning.

akitadog · March 2005

I bought a cat-back exhaust system from SLP for my 99 GL w/3.5, though it states it's for the 3.8. It fit like a glove anyway. I don't know whether or not they still sell it, though. It's a 3 inch exhaust that ends with a dual exhaust tip, not true-dual, though. Supposedly good for 10 hp. I lost some low-end torque but my engine revs a lot quicker in the mid to top-range. I don't know how it would affect the pushrod V6.

dtownfb · March 2005

I installed a new battery this weekend. Advance Auto Titanium. I must say that battery was tough to get out. Once you have the right tools, it will take you about 20-30 minutes to remove and install battery. Some tips that wil lhelp:

1) Take out the two bolts on the "bar" that connects the side quarter panel and the front (right above the headlights). And loosen the single bolt on the quarter panel so the bar cna swing.

2) There is a wedge that holds the battery in place. You'll need an ratchet extension to reach the bolt. You'll have to remove the entire piece not jsut loosen the bolt.

3) This is probably the most important item since it is not the most obvious. Right above the battery is the fuse box. Remove both bolts that hold the fuse box in place. This wil allow you to slide the fuse box up a couple of inches. You'll need those couple of inches to remove the battery.

To remove the battery, you have to swing the bar as far as it will allow. Lift the fuse box up a couple of inches and rotate the battery onto it, the lift it out (Watch your fingers!). Then reverse the process to install the new battery.

I can't tell yet if it has helped the flickering of the headlights but it appears the headlights are brighter. time will tell.

dekester · March 2005

Thanks.......I don't think SLP offers anything for the Trig any more - I used to frequent that site checking out different items.

Maybe I'll get a response from Flowmaster on whether their Impala/Grand Prix unit will work on the Olds.

Deke

lmacmil · March 2005

"Maybe I'll get a response from Flowmaster on whether their Impala/Grand Prix unit will work on the Olds."

Fitting and working are two different things. As the other poster said, his Catback fit but he lost low end torque which is what you use for 90% of your driving.

akitadog · March 2005

"Fitting and working are two different things. As the other poster said, his Catback fit but he lost low end torque which is what you use for 90% of your driving."

Only if 90% of your driving is stoplight to stoplight or stop-and-go, then that may be true. My daily commute is about 70% highway at speeds between 60 and 75 mph. My mid- and top-range passing power is enhanced which is what I need the most. Also, the low-end torque loss is noticeable, but by no means is my car now sluggish off the line. Remember, it's a DOHC engine, so off-the-line isn't great to begin with.

evandro · March 2005

"Remember, it's a DOHC engine, so off-the-line isn't great to begin with."

Correction: it's DOHC engine without variable valve timing, so off-the-line isn't great to begin with.

You should try the new 3.6 DOHC VVT V6: off-the-line feels like a 3.8 V6 and on the highway, like our 3.5 V6. ;-)

stalling98 · March 2005

i had pepboys do a diagnostic test on the car and it came up with the ignition module and crankshaft position.thanks man.salamat po bossing problemado kasi ako d2 sa kotse.maraming salamat uli

pat · March 2005

Glad you got your problem fixed - but please do not use any language but English in our Forums. Thanks!

vanman1 · March 2005

Have you tried a 3.6L? I am really wanting to test a Allure CXS or a CTS with the engine to compare with my Intrigue.

evandro · March 2005

Yes, I have. I drove a La Crosse with the 3.6 and was very impressed with this engine. Cam phasing addresses the most glaring issue with multi-valve engines: lack of low-end torque. The 3.6 has really got the best of both worlds. IMO, a worthy successor to both the 3.5 and the 3.8. Let's just hope that it's as reliable as them and consumes as little oil as the 3.8, an industry benchmark.

vanman1 · March 2005

I have a feeling my next car will be a 3.6L powered car. It sounds like a great engine and I really love my 3.5L so I would want something similar.

The Saturn Aura will have the engine and the LaCrosse/Allure and CTS are other choices.

b4z · March 2005

One of our former members also pu the SLP cat back system on and he felt like he picked up a little upper end power.
He liked it very much if I remember correctly.

I have the 3.6L in my SRX and it has a lot more low and midrange power than the 3.5L
My 4200lb SRX is faster than my 3400lb Intrigue was.
But it does have more gearing and a 5 speed auto.
The '04 3.6L is a little nosiy, but the '05s are quieter.

white6 · March 2005

in a six-banger cammer. I noticed that the new Buick has the 3.6, but still saddled with the old four-speed auto. Motor Trend says 8 second 0-60. The CTS, on the other hand, has a five-speed auto and 3.6 and does 0-60 in 6.6 seconds. Both cars weigh about the same, but the Caddy 3.6 is rated a little higher in hp (for some reason). Still, most of the extra performance is due to the better tranny. Looking forward to the new 6-speed auto that GM will start installing this fall (Corvette/XLR) and will work their way down through to other, less obvious but more needy models.

vanman1 · March 2005

If I can scrape enough to buy a CTS, it will be my next car but with kids, my wife starting a business and a pending larger house I may have to wait for my first Caddy.

In the mean time I still love my Intrigue. The new Goodyear Comfort Treads have really made the car ride much better and the 3.5L is still smooth and silky.

b4z : What year is your SRX?

b4z · March 2005

'04 SRX.

0-60 is 7.2 secs.

millandj · March 2005

So what type of Michelins did you buy? Guess they are working out OK for you? Any ideas on the rotors problems...did you have to replace them too. Thanks so much!

ab348 · March 2005

Michelin Harmony were what I got. Actually, here in Canada they are called Michelin Destiny, but they are the same tire.

Rotors: I took mine in last summer to the dealer complaining about a brake vibration and they changed the front rotors under warranty so those are fine now.

millandj · March 2005

Looking at the Goodrich Traction T/A as replacement tires. Scored better than most everything else on Tirerack.com reviews and surveys. Sucks I'm only getting 33K out of the OEM Eagles...I expected way more.

Too bad on my rotors I guess; only 33K but I've had the car over 5 yrs so no warranty for me. Gotta believe they are undersized for teh car though...

vanman1 · March 2005

I got 80K kms out of my first OEM set of brakes. Changed all 4 pads late in the fall. I did do a fair amount of highway though, probably a 1/3 of the 80k.

Just changed my OEM Eagles at 83K kms with GY Comfort Treads, I was hoping for more since they are rated for 120K but oh well.

focus · March 2005

Is rotors under car manufacturer warranty? i thought they are classified as wear and tear?
i need to change all my pads next month with about 55,000 km, not gripping well and slip one time in emergency braking, will have them look at the rotor too.

ab348 · March 2005

All I can tell you is that I got a free set as well as a free turning of the rear rotors. Did GM expand the coverage as part of the Olds phase-out, I wonder?

Actually I do have an issue with the consistency of the warranty coverage re. brakes. Last month I took the car to the dealer for service with a complaint that the front right caliper was sticking or grabbing. They confirmed that diagnosis and said that because of that, the pads were worn out. I had to pay for a new set. My only issue is that the car has been exclusively dealer-serviced the entire time and part of the regular routine involves a "brake service" which I would have thought ruled out such problems, especially since they had replaced the rotors 7-8 months earlier anyway. Seems to me that a sticking caliper could only be caused by lack of lubrication which to me is their issue. But I paid for it (begrudgingly) anyway.

lmacmil · March 2005

"Seems to me that a sticking caliper could only be caused by lack of lubrication..."

I'll bet a lot of mechanics don't relube the caliper pins when performing a brake job. If your pads have gone 40-50K miles, the pins may have dried out before the linings needed replacing.

pat9 · March 2005

My 2000 Intrigue is on its 3rd alternator. This cured the minor dimming problem for the last 50,000 miles. This week, after driving fine for 40 minutes the headlights began to rapidly flicker (from 100% all the way down to completely off), brights too. The flashers still worked, the interior lights were fine, and I believe the fog lights were fine. Of course when we took it in, they could not duplicate this. It happened again for about 2 minutes another night, but has been fine other times. Has anybody else had headlights cutting out this drastically? We drove with the flashers on out of necessity.

white6 · March 2005

I'd probably look at the headlight switch first. Try jiggling or switching quickly while it is flickering. More likely the headlight relay, though.

moonshadow · March 2005

pat, some thoughts.

If it is an altenator. prob. then your dash lights and your blower motor should go crazy as well.

Have you tried to use the headlight switch on the stick?

One side of each headlight is connected directly to +12 volts through fuses. One for each side of the car. The other side of the bulbs are tied together and all that is required is to connect it to ground.

METHOD 1
The daylight sensor on the top of the dash near the defrost vent, via the BCM, controls a headlamp relay, which connects the headlights to ground through its contact.

METHOD 2
Moving the headlight stick control from auto to low beam or high, provides a ground through its contact in the stick.

As long as the stick contact is closed, regardless of what the relay wants to do, the headlights are powered.

With the stick, you have a direct connection from the bat. through the bulbs to ground. Instead of the sensor, the BCM and the relay and its contact.

Of coarse there is a plug connection somewhere between the front end and the stick switch.

Also, the ground of the stick and the ground of the headlamp relay are the same ground point.

dtownfb · March 2005

Had the same thing happen to me about a month ago. It looked like someone was turning my headlights on and off. My battery was low. I replaced the battery. I have had a couple of instances of the headlight fllickering but nothing like that. My battery was about 5 years and 5 months old so changing it made sense anyway.

buckwalter1 · March 2005

Need some help, here. I lost the owners manual (don't ask...). I changed the oil and now need to reset the service interval indicator. I forgot the process, can anyone share it with me? Also any tips on finding another owners manual would be appreciated too.
Thanks....bill

moonshadow · March 2005

For the oil servive light .

place the key to acc without the engine running and hit the gas pedal to the floor 3 times quickly. Wait for the oil service light to flash several times and then go out. Turn key off and start engine, should be out and or reset. The flashing of the idiot light is the indication that it is reset.

Link below for buying(uggh) a manual from gm, however, first, I would drop by a junk yard and ask them. Maybe a dealer may have something left over.

http://www.gmgoodwrench.com/TipsAdvice/OwnerServiceManuals.html

cheers

c2000intrigue · March 2005

Hey all,

Yesterday when i started my 2000 Intrigue up, the engine was vibrating sending the front of the car up and down and also noticed there were no power brakes. It was running fine all day. It had been sitting for about 4 hrs.

I checked the codes on it and said the engine was misfiring and the guy at autozone said that i needed new plugs. But he had no idea what could be wrong with the power brakes. The fluid level is fine.

I went to get the plugs but was informed there wasn't any plug wires on this engine but some thing else. I was wondering if i got the plugs and just changed them out if it was difficult. My brother said he could do it for me. He knows a little about cars but just wondering how hard it would be.

It just seems very weird to me how the engine misfires and the power brakes go out all of a sudden just sitting for a few hours. Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

moonshadow · March 2005

Sorry, buckwalter1.

I misspoke in my previous message.

Should have typed "key to on" instead of "key to acc".

I guess it's back to the rack for punishment.
sigh

buckwalter1 · March 2005

Thanks for the info, moonshadow...you were "spot on". The oil change light is reset, this time in conjunction with an oil&filter change. I will follow up on the owners manual as my father has now asked that I sell his car for him. This car has grown on me, with it's comfortable ride, and the Bose sound system in conjunction w/my satellite radio, road trips have been the "cat's pajamas".

lmacmil · March 2005

No power brakes means a vacuum leak in your brake booster. A large vacuum leak would also cause the engine to run rough.

c2000intrigue · March 2005

Thanks!

You are right. We changed 3 spark plugs and started the car up. It was still acting up. My brother heard and spotted the hose that was off. It was a large hose leading to the master cylinder. The clamp was missing. I had my transmission reworked lately and guess they didn't put the clamp back on. At least i got new spark plugs put in ( we went a head and put in all the plugs).

Thanks again!

anchony · March 2005

Can someone please advise where the spark plugs are located as I would like to change them myself. Thanks

lmacmil · March 2005

If you can't find the spark plugs, you should probably not be changing them yourself. That said, just follow the plug wires until they end.

white6 · March 2005

No plug wires to follow..........

anchony · March 2005

You must not be very knowledgeable as there are no visible plug wires. It would help if you knew where the plugs are located.

lmacmil · March 2005

"You must not be very knowledgeable as there are no visible plug wires."

You're right. Another reason that it doesn't appear to be a job for an amateur.

dtownfb · March 2005

I think what lmacmil is saying is if you can't find the spark plugs, you probably should let someone else who is more knowledgable of the workings of this engine handle changing the spark plugs. If there are no spark plug wires to worry about, it should be an easy job for a mechanic.

mrdubya · March 2005

Hi, im looking for a service manual for a 2001 intrigue. i know haynes makes one for 97-2000 w-body's including the intrigue. is this the best one to get? im pretty sure the 2000 intrigue had the 3.5dohc like our 2001, but maybe it was the 3800....i dont know.

what do you recommend for a 2001? i had a gm service manual for my 95 aurora because that was all that was available, but maybe it was just me, but it seemed less user friendly, better if you were already a mechanic, but i dont know what the intrigue one is like

thanks

vanman1 · March 2005

The 2000 Intrigue and many 99's also had the 3.5L

Try e-Bay for the manual. I have heard they can be downloaded before but I have never found them. Your local GM dealer may be able to help you or order a replacement also.

hammen2 · March 2005

http://www.helminc.com ($135) or eBay...

lmacmil · April 2005

I will be leasing a new Toyota Camry SE-V6 and have sold my 2000 Intrigue to a work colleague for $5500. This was about $1000 above dealer trade and $600 below KBB private party sale price so it was a good deal for both of us. It has only 57,000 miles and is very clean with only a couple minor issues which I told him about. I hope to get the Camry late next week (they have to get the color I wanted from another dealer) and turn over the Intrigue the next day. Will be touring the Camry plant in Georgetown, KY next Monday.

Oldsmobile Intrigue

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