Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
How did you fix it? I mean, did just putting pressure on it once take of it for good, or did you get it fixed by the dealer? I can't tell right now if that is the problem, but next time I am with someone I'll have them drive, sit in the back seat and try putting pressure on that spot myself. I imagine its something like that...not a big problem but noticeable--I'd love to get it taken care of quick and easily!
Every state's lemon law is different, but I think the time limits are usually pretty short. If you're thinking of pursuing that course (and I hope you don't have to), you should look into it as soon as possible.
I bought my Intrigue in Maryland, and the law says the problem has to occur within 15 months or 15,000 miles. Other states are more liberal, saying it's within some amount of time after the warranty expires. In most states, the car has to be in for repairs 4 times or out of service for 30 days. Steering and brake problems only require one repair attempt in MD.
I think in past posts you said you're in Tennessee, right? Here's the link to their lemon law site:
http://www.state.tn.us/consumer/lemon.html
When I had my steering problems, it was out of service over 30 days and in for repairs 4 times, but I was over the time and mileage limits in MD. If I were in TN, though, I would have been within the post-warranty time limit.
Good luck.
i just moved it around with my hand. it would be fine for awhile then start up again.
I think the last 12 months I had the car it didn't buzz.
But the front end was making so much noise that i drove around with the stereo cranked.
"re-design" fixed the problem... just band-aided it so they could get you out of the warranty period and, therefore, not their problem. As I said, I think we'll be replacing alternators forever, since GM isn't going to spend any time/resources researching a proper fix for a model/engine that is out of production.
I wonder if there are other brand alternators that work better?
http://www.snorake.com/
I also had to get my car towed on 5 separate occasions because it would not start for me. This happened if I tried to start it after it was recently turned off. The engine would have to cool completely before it would start again.
Turned out to be the fuel pressure regulator. It took 5 tows because no one could reproduce the problem. Finally, I brought the car in on a hot May morning and made it cut out right in the lot.
This, after both crank sensors were replaced on two visits and three visits that left them scratching their heads. The first time it happened left me 400 miles from home!
GM rebuilt it under warranty. Needed new clutch packs, etc.
Turns out there was a TSB on it and lots of them were going out because of too much line pressure or something. The car shifted extremely hard into second.
After the rebuild it was much softer but would still chirp second.
Check with Olds dealer and was told that it's likely a problem somewhere in my steering column since the brake light wires go though or into it, and they said this would be an expensive ($300-400) repair).
HAS ANYONE OUT THERE EXPERIENCED, OR HEARD OF A PROBLEM LIKE THIS? Your kind input will be very much appreciated.
Dewey
These switch go bad some times on all cars. If you have an ohm meter you can unplug the connector and check for resistance.
If you see that it is easy to get at, and can disconnect it from the pedal arm, then it may be easier to check on a bench.
I have sometimes been able to spray some tuner cleaner into the sealed switchs through cracks and work the switch many times to get the dirt out. Rubbing achool works well also, but not as quickly. older car switch were sometimes able to come apart for cleaning . I have not looked at a gm switch lately.
Your ohm meter reading should be less than a couple of ohms otherwise the voltage gets dropped across the switch instaed of the bulbs. Sometimes there is more than one contact in the switch, one for the light and the other for the body module.
If you can not clean it and get a good low resistance reading then a new switch will be necessary. Sometimes brake switches can be hard to get at, if you do go after it , get a good light down there and pay close attention the any spacers and how it unbolts.
Keep in mine that there may be a couple of plugs in the harness from the column to the rear of the car . Sometimes just behind the rear seat accessable from the trunk. Even up under the rear sill where the speakers are. However, if a bad connector was your problem, then i would expect more than just missing brake lights.
Start with the brake switch and keep us posted.
Also, for those who are intersted, a Boston area GM dealer is advertising a new '02 GX for $18500 (before taxes). MSRP is $24400...not a great deal, since I got my GL w/PCS and Sun and Sound for $18900 (before taxes) from an MSRP of $27032, although $550 of that was GM Card and $400 was College Grad. Anyway, just a price update...
For those of you who have had the crankshaft sensor problem, what kind of symptoms did you experience before concluding the sensor was bad?
Anyhow, a local dealer has two GX Intrigues for sale. One is a 2000 with 55k miles and the other is a 2001 with 49k miles. The 2000 listed price is 14,900 but has an "internet price" of 6,999. The 2001 is listed as 13,065 with an internet price of 9,999. Does this sound right? If you go by blue book standards the prices are about 1,500 below bb, although I've often heard that blue book estimates are high.
I've been reading this thread for a while now, and from what I can gather, the Intrigue is ultimately a reliable, fun vehicle to drive. I guess because I've never dealt with internet managers before, I'm sort of leery about the internet pricing option, the pricing seems low to me. I plan on talking with the internet manager but wanted to get your take on it.
Dewey
Someone here asked what the build date of my bro in law's intrigue was. I looked and found that the 2001 was built in Sep of 2000. Has the bad alternator problem.
I was very pleased with the service at my Nissan dealership. It's very close which makes it convenient but hopefully I won't be spending too much time there. I wish I wouldda taken a picture of my Intrigue with her wreath on last year. It looks great on the Maxima this year too but dang sure miss her.
There are different degrees of abrasiveness on compounds with rubbing usually being very harsh.
You will probably have the best luck doing it mechanically rather than by hand. A cheap buffer or polisher from an auto parts sore will provide excellent results.
I have been looking at pictures of the '04 Pontiac Grand Prix (presumably the Intrigue would have been somewhat similar) and I have to say I'm not impressed. Even though some of the moldings are gone, to me it still looks awkard and "fake." The problem I have with the current generation GP is that it is too long to have such fake 'sporty' attributes, the same things look better on the Grand Am. The '04 doesn't seem to solve this much, and it also doesn't seem to have too many mechanical changes either. I wonder what they will do with the Regal.
I know its been said many times, but count me as one of those who thinks that the Oldsmobiles look MUCH better than Pontiacs--more natural, smoother, more sophisticated. There is a certain 'stealth' aspect to the Intrigues styling. Everyone who sees it knows its fast but it doesn't need to shout it from the rooftops to get your attention. Oh well...preaching to the choir i guess!
In today's local Dallas paper , there are 5 2000's between $7-10K, 3 '01's from 8,995 to 12,995 (GL and GLX), a '98 w/65K for 6500, 2 low-mile '02's for 13,995 and 15,595 respectively.
While Oldsmobile's poor fortunes have made it one of the fastest depreciating line of cars around, anyone looking for a great value on a used car should definitly be considering the Intrigue. I still consider mine a steal.
The car looks great!
Read your recent post and must confess that I misunderstood your first. When you said both lights died, I was thinking one on each side.
However your first post clearly states on the left so I apologize for the posible goose chase I may have sent you on.
If one side worked then the brake light switch probably is not your problem. I am thinking now that you have a bad resistance in a plug or a cut, pinch or wear somewhere in the brake wiring., and it seems to be getting worse.
One might rule out the front of the car as some of your braking lights work, however, today cars "may" send a wire back for each of the three brake lights. You can see this if you remove the liner at the back to expose the plugs of the lamps.
Try following the wiring in the trunk back from the lights to the high mount stop light looking for plugs and or chafing. Unfortunately , mine is in the stupid wing and therefore the wiring would be different.
I would think GM uses the same wiring harness and then probably connects were your window light plugs in and then slides along the trunk lid into the wing.
Remember also that the car has battery rundown protection if your lights were left on or perhaps brake light stick then power is cut to a variety of circuits after 20 minutes or so. Just in case your chasing voltage with a meter with the trunk open and trunk light jerks you around. Hopefully, these lights are not going through some stupid module???
Sorry if I misled you and good luck.
LOL...well, to each one's own I guess...the rest of the car looks good!
I have to admit though, after a few days, it kind of grew on me, and was a little cool that it stuck out from all the other Intrigue's in town. Even though they're whitewalls, at least it has a new set of Michelins and the Crapyears are in the trash!
;-)
TIA
TIA
However, I think that GM really wants to concentrate on its series of 60 degree V-6 engines. They use less space than the much wider 90 deg. 3.5L, and due to their continuously variable valve-timing, have more and broader power and torque. Also, the engines, coming in different displacements, share a few parts. This cuts down on costs. The Shortstar shared few, if any, with other engines.
These engines are some of the finest I've experienced. I mean, who else can pump out that kind of power (215hp, 230 lb/ft) on regular unleaded? Only the 01-02 Aurora 4.0 outperforms it in this way.
3.5L V6 does not have any inherent problems--it has performed flawlessly in the Intrigues and Aurora's it is installed in. It was not cancelled because it leaks oil (at worst it tends to burn a little more than some others). Its just simple economics that dicated it be cancelled.
So what's up with the new look of the message board? Seems to take longer to load on my computer.