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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Sedans

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  • Hello!

    I’m looking at purchasing a new 2002 C-coupe. I will get it with almost everything (i.e. comand, c1 package, c5 premium package, leather, multi-contour seat, auto trans). The only reason I can get this is because of some settlement money I have come across so I’m new to MB. That means I’m left with a few questions:

    What is the service like, cost, worth, etc. All of the small things that most don’t think or care about when purchasing a MB I’m thinking about. I don’t know, any help would be great!

    Thanx!
  • htma1htma1 Posts: 10
    Anyone else have a problem with oil level sensor? My 2001 C240/6 flashes a red warning screen, beeps, and gives me the "OIL OVER FILLED" warning once or twice a day. The dealer said that they replaced the oil sensor a month ago to correct this problem, and changed the oil (A-service)at the same time. I'm pretty sure that they changed the sensor, because they spilled oil on the exhaust, and we were treated to the smell of burning synthetic oil for a couple weeks.

    The over-fill warning went away for a week or so after the repair, but now it's going off a couple times a day.

    Then again, maybe my engine is creating oil?
  • My 2001 C320 is 10 months old now. I thought I fell victim to the "forgetful key" syndrome that has plagued other owners.

    Both keys started to intermittently give trouble (not opening or locking doors, ignition not working). The red diode would blink when I tested for adequate battery power. I tried re-programing the keys by inserting into the ignition lock 12 consecutive times. I tested the lithium CR 2025 batteries, and they both read "good" on my battery test meter, well into the green zone. For the past week, I have been carrying three keys with me (both Smart Keys, plus the mechanical key), in case of emergency. I did not feel like being towed, given the cold weather we now have in New York.

    The Home Depot had a sale on batteries on New Year's Day (1/2 price for all Duracell!). I purchased four new CR 2025 batteries. I tested them prior to installation, and well, the new batteries were even further into the green "good" zone on the meter!

    I have not had a problem yet with the new batteries! Perhaps batteries falling just short of 3V, by even a few tenths of a volt, are causing some of the key problems.

    I remember my previous cars used 12-volt batteries in the remote controller, so maybe Mercedes figured out a way to cause much grief for their customers by using two 3V batteries in series.

    Any thoughts...
  • ahostahost Posts: 36
    Previously on the board I believe some people wrote about side mirror drift, i.e., after some time (e.g. a week) the side mirrors would have (slowly) drifted out of their setting and would have to be set back by pressing the memory button. I'm experiencing that, and I wonder if someone ever found a solution/had it corrected by the service center?
  • mleskovarmleskovar Posts: 171
    If I am not mistaken, battery is not needed to start car. So if your ignition was not working it was a bigger problem. After two key replacements in the first 4 months I have been key problem free for 6 months. In fact, after getting the steering wheel straightened, the keys, and a new front passenger seat belt retractor, I've been trouble free and really enjoying the car. Not your Japanese car quality but then again not your Japanese car driving experience either.
    Having owned both I prefer the MB and know the long term (100K miles +) mechanical integrity is superior.
  • mtroymtroy Posts: 45
    Last Friday, I made appt at Auto Stiegler in Encino to replace tail light per indicator. They had the car all day, and at 4 pm, I got a message that they didn't get to it and would need to keep the car over the weekend and I could keep the free rental. But I didn't have a rental! I picked up the car that evening. There was no apology and no explanation. I am never bringing my car there again, nor would I ever buy a car there. This is the third time in a row that they've displayed horrible service. Coincidentally, my wife's Honda also had a tail light out. I called my Honda service guy (J&C in North Hollywood), who told me to bring it in. They replaced it in 4 minutes. What a contrast.
  • I should have clarified... the only time I had trouble with the key in the ignition was when I was inserting 12 times to reprogram the key. Occasionally, the ignition may not recognize the key (this is mentioned in the owner's manual). Otherwise, my forgetful keys' only symptom was not locking or unlocking the doors (intermittently).

    This problem was resolved with fresh lithium batteries. It wouldn't be apparent, however, as the original batteries still tested good on the battery meter (almost "like new" on voltmeter) and red diode still blinked on the SmartKey.

    Wish me luck over the next 9-10 months or so... at which point I will proactively change the 3V batteries again!
  • I purchased a C240 several months ago, but decided at that time not to purchase the extended warranty. I have decided to purchase the warranty and have been trying to find the post that provides info on purchasing the extended warranty. Can someone provide me with either the post number that contains the info or provide any info on purchasing an extended warranty at a "good price."
  • husky11husky11 Posts: 53
    You will find the extended warranty information you are looking for, on this board (i.e. the Mercedes Benz C Class) in post # 4781 by paul_p. He saved $800 compared to his local dealer. You must purchase by the end of the first year from purcahse date. Name is: Lisa Lehrbaum, Courtesy Motors, Chico, CA at 1-800-655-3535 Lisa's FAX number is 530-893-1131
    Good luck.
  • mtroymtroy Posts: 45
    In contrast to Auto Stiegler's failure to fix my tail light even though they kept my car an entire day and wanted to keep it over the weekend, I took it to Downtown LA MB, where it was fixed in 10 minutes. It was fixed by the service advisor himself,with no paperwork and no waiting.
  • I have been having trouble with side mirror drift as well and the dealership has looked at the problem on at least six different service visits since September (the mirror is not the only problem .... power seats, electric windows, keys, trunk, ..... and so on). The dealer has yet to figure out the mirror drift and instead has damaged the interior door panel - 2" diameter bubbles - pushed through from the back side of the soft interior door panel. They also decided to remove and lose the rubber trim that runs along the top of the interior door panel along the base of the window. If you wondered - it sounds like you are driving with a window cracked with that trim missing. It took several weeks for them to even aknowledge they had removed and lost the part. Anyway, they've replaced the trim piece and the entire door panel and the mirror still drifts. I give up. I'm getting rid of this heap as soon as I can!!
  • benz747benz747 Posts: 91
    Hi, yesterday when I was driving on snow, I realize that when I apply breaks it gives me funny sound and some resistance while driving on a road with a snow accumulated; I am just wondering if this is a normal behavior of the CAR, I am driving in "W" mode - any replies would be appricaited
    thanks
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    It's called ABS - the antilock braking system is doing its job [those would be brakes, not breaks...let's hope, anyway].

    This has nothing to do with whether you use the winter or summer mode in the transmission - all the winter mode does is start you in second gear to try to minimize wheel spin.

    Between the ABS and ESP, this is a very safe car in snow - but no system will make up for a complete lack of traction, which is why snow tires are a good idea in any area of the country that sees substantial quantities of the white stuff. Somehow, the tone of your question suggests you are not in one of those areas, in which case slow speeds and due caution are all that are required.
  • benz747benz747 Posts: 91
    thanks for the valuable information, now I know that W is only need to be used when you start the car initially, and once it is motion we should change to S - please correct me !!

    I also noticed on my information panel, the "i" mark in triangle appears and then disappears when that breaking happens. It happens so fast that I could not get chance to see what exactly it is.

    I am in Columbus ohio area and only yesterday I had chance to take her on ice

    thanks
  • ngdienngdien Posts: 2
    I have noticed that a lot of people are buying the extended warranty, but a lot of MB owners claimed that their cars last well into 200K miles without any major problem so I am wondering if the Extended warranty is necessary. Also if you think MB has a great reputation for quality and longevity then why are you doubting their FSS sytem? I don't think they want to risk their reputation if it does not perform as designed.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    The warning triangle light is telling you that the traction control is working - it will first modulate the brakes, and then cut the throttle, depending on what it takes to keep you moving forward. Everything you describe is the system working as it should under these conditions...
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    ngdien,

    I would agree with you that 200k with minimal (if any) drivetrain issues is not unreasonable mileage for a MB vehicle to accumulate. But imho, it is the "small things" that will get you - one of my former colleagues liked to use the phrase "nickel and dime you to death." In this case it's by the $100.00's.

    As others have mentioned on the board, MB repairs can be quite costly. If something as "small" as your fuel gauge or electronic speedometer stops working - which could require replacement of the instrument cluster - at 4 years and one day or 50,001 miles, it could easily cost you over a thousand dollars to get fixed. There is also a myriad of electronic sensors on the car, most of which I would expect are in the hundreds of dollars to replace.

    I believe the extended warranty covers those things and much more for up to 4 years beyond the regular warranty (total of 8 years). The $1,680 I paid for my extended warranty was worth the peace of mind. Lisa Lehrbaum at Courtesy Motors in Chico, CA is who I bought it from, saving about $860. over what I was quoted by my hometown Atlanta dealer. Lisa can be reached at (800) 655-3535.

    Buying the extended warranty was not an easy decision for me, as I work in an unstable high-tech industry. I wanted to therefore ensure minimized cost over the next 7 years with my (paid-for) Benz. The last thing I would want is to have to sell it because I could not afford to fix the air conditioner, transmission, electronics, etc.

    Good luck with your decision and with maintenance on your MB!

    - Paul
  • What do you recommend to clean my C240 leatherette?

    I used a cotton swab w/ rubbing alcohol to clean it...Is it safe?

    Thank you for your advice.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    ...for this purpose. There are lots of products out there for cleaning vinyl surfaces that are effective and a lot more gentle on the material. Take a stroll down the auto supply aisle at any discounter...
  • husky11husky11 Posts: 53
    I was driving through heavy rain a few weeks ago. Ran into fairly deep (4-6 inches) standing water and the yellow warning light came on for only a second or two. I was wondering if something went haywire but am glad to hear that it was just the notification (in effect)that the system is working. It IS a scary way to notify one though. I have a 1999 C280.
    Thanks for the information.
  • pk6pk6 Posts: 26
    The warning lights a quick reminder to slow down or use caution when you're on wet roads and hitting those puddles and even more so I think when you hit those frosty sections of an otherwise dry clear road in winter... especially when it's getting dark and you can't see as well.
  • cticctic Posts: 291
    My warning lights are coming on more often now that my rear tires are wearing out. Happens every time I go up my driveway now.

    AFAIK, the buttons will only work with the OEM CD changer. If you don't wanna pay the factory price you can get an OEM CD changer at somewhere like clairparts.com and install it yourself. You need to ask the guys there whether you need to still take it to dealer get the system to recognize CD changer though. Pro of dealer installation, the CD changer is warrantied for 4 years. Con: Price.

    Cotton swabs and alcohol. Sounds as fun as cleaning toilets with a toothbrush. That will disinfect the seats too, but is someone with open sores and a thong sitting in your seats? It might dry the leatherette too. I use a Meguiar's leather cleaner. They sell one for synthetics too.

    husky11: Wasn't that rain something. 4-6 inches of standing water? I once drove in water that deep and it shorted out the engine.
  • paul_ppaul_p Posts: 271
    Just curious: Would driving through 4 to 6 inches of standing water be enough to warp the front rotors on a C-Class?

    My 1995 C started developing front braking vibration at 25,000 miles, and I wonder if it was becase when I washed the car, I used to spray lots of water to clean the front wheels (after driving it). Just in case it does make a difference, I will only wash the front wheels on my "new" '00 C before driving - when they are cool.
  • tariktarik Posts: 344
    Paul,
    Driving through a puddle of water (no matter how deep) will only warp your rotors if they are REALLY hot, like immediately after an emergency brake manoeuver. Under regular driving conditions, the sudden temperature change won't be enough to do any harm.

    ctic,
    A friend's brother (yeah, yeah...) had his Toyota LC turbo diesel fitted with a cold induction kit and increased boost to be, well, quicker. As appropriate (he thought) for a 4x4, puddles were no reason for him to slow down, ever. What he didn't know until the tragic day his engine gave up its ghost, was that the cold induction pipe ended in the back of the right front wheel well. The air out there is rather cool - and in his case it was saturated with water, too! His engine took a good gulp of water, which in turn very suddenly blocked the engine after making it into the compression chambers. Diagnosis: broken and bent connecting rods, engine all to h@**. Intake kit Manufacturer's remorse and answer to his claim: zilch

    After this little endeavor, he switched to a 190E and was never again seen anywhere close to standing water...

    Tarik
  • benz747benz747 Posts: 91
    thanks for the valuable information and I am glad that I bought C
    did anyone noticed new commercial of C lately?
    one more thing I watch watching a movie shot in Luxemberg and the girl in that movie was driving CAR exact similar to C 240/320 but the rear end was reading as C200 Kompressor !! this is just for information
  • Hello,

    I got my C240 last year in Feb 2000. With a few minor issues Can anyboy help with these:
    1. One of car keys does not work, especially, If I take it out as soon as I stop the car.

    2. The breaks sweak always.. Took it to the dealer on the 2nd day, the cleaned it and it worked fine .... it is back again..

    3. SNOW !!!. I live in the North east, I justk skid and skip on slopes any suggestions. Will snow tires help ?.

    Thanks

    A
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    A single shot through a deep puddle probably won't do it, but hitting hot brakes with a hose when washing it certainly will. ALWAYS wait for the brakes to cool before attempting to wash around the wheels, either front or rear.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    If you are slipping and sliding, there is no question you need winter tires. There are lots of alternatives, including ready-to-mount packages from such as Tire Rack [got to TireRack.com - they have a superb website]. Or, switch to a all-season tire that has a good rep for wet/snow traction - the Michelin MXV4 Plus is a good choice if you are not constantly in snow during the winter. Also keep in mind that effectiveness is reduced a lot as the tread wears down - what is safe and reasonable in the summer might make the car useless in the winter, depending on the tire and tread design.
  • jrct9454jrct9454 Posts: 2,363
    There are at least 3 or 4 other engines available to EU customers for this car that we don't see here, including the 2 liter Kompressor. Thus it has always been and probably always will be - same with interior options, color choices, wheel choices, etc. ad nauseum.

    If we ever do see the next generation A-Class here, as promised, count on a maximum of one or two engine choices, vs a half dozen in the EU. Certifying all of the various engine/transmission combinations for US sale is too expensive, and just will never happen...
  • cticctic Posts: 291
    Spraying your hot wheels with cool water is a definite no-no. No matter how tempting it is to wash your car after getting home I always wait until the morning to wash it. Another thing I do after washing the car is to drive it a little bit to get any remaining pools of standing water off unseen surfaces. And I step on the brakes a little. This way you get water off the brakes and you don't get any unsightly rust marks on your brakes.

    Having said that, I don't suppose it is a good idea to go through a car wash after driving your car hard then. Because your brakes are sure to be hot and the car wash will be spraying cold water on them. But in living in Seattle you're always going to get a combination of hot wheels and cold water because it rains half the time and the brakes are sure to get wet any time you're driving in the rain.

    Tarik: It was also a Toyota I was driving in when the engine went out. Strangely enough, it was in the Bay Area. It was the only downpour I had ever been in down there, massive amounts of rain, worse than in Seattle, just for a few hours. Would have drowned if I were born a few inches shorter.
This discussion has been closed.