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Comments
Rear Deck speakers:
Yes, you need to remove the entire backseat along with the rear paneling that houses the tailight. Only then can you access the 6x9 speakers even though they can be clearly seen from the trunk.
Front Door Speakers:
These are 5.25" i believe, and ya, the regal will make you work to remove these. You essentially have to remove all the plastic trim until you hit bare metal. Its definately easier than removing the backseat, thats for sure.
Headunit:
Good news - the regal uses a double-din sized headunit so any aftermarket stereo should fit no problem.
Bad news - getting it to fit. You have to take apart the black trim that that surrounds the radio and stretches across the whole dash. Then you need to pull back on the lower dash part ... and then the whole process becomes a mess. Do note that the space or depth behind the headunit is not sufficient, some dremel tooling is in order for a piece of metal that was hanging out back there [i think to brace the stock unit].
Looking back at it , the regal is quite possibly the last car on the planet fit for a stereo retrofit. BUT, if you got the $$$ and can pay straightup retail prices for your equipment, go the no-hassle route and get it done by pros at Circuit city or some-place similar.
Oh, I also did a trans. and coolant flush about 6 months after I bought it. I change the oil around 4,000 miles or 5-6 months. It now has about 72,000 miles on it. Except for a couple dings from idots in my workplace parking garage, it is still in very good shape.
It handles like a Buick, which if fine. But, the powerful engine and comfortable ride more than make up for it. I plan on keeping another 2-3... maybe 4 years, which will put it around the 100,000 mile mark. At which point I'll probably look at the LaCrosse, Nissan Altima or maybe the Mazda 6.
Any and all guidance extremely appreciated! TIA
Steve
With a clean towel, wipe off any dirt from the computer chip in your key (both sides).
The other item is you have a faulty sensor (duh!). Many things can come to be when all those lights appear. If you take the car to the dealer, most likely he'll get a vague computer code and their answer is often to change the ABS pump ($1,800). Don't go for it (unless you think you have such problems). Have them change the sensor (most like one of the sensors near the front wheels). FWIW, get the computer code from the dealer.
How is your battery? A weakened battery can cause funny reactions.
After that I'd go to Advanced Auto and have them check for codes even if that SES light isn't on. There may be stored codes that hint at the symptom of or the cause of the problem. The systems involved may not show codes with their reader. They may require a Tech II or equivalent that a good shop would use...
The antilock and traction light could be from a related problem. I'm not sure how th SES engine light would work there and be from the same problem.
Check leads, battery, and get codes read. All free so far!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
thanks
robin
or
are you saying the air stops coming through the dash vents since it's summer and you probably have air conditioning on?
If it's the latter that may mean your motor is lower in vacuum and the vanes inside the heater box that direct the air to the floor or defrost or dash vents are controlled by vacuum. When the vacuum amount drops those doors go to their default setting which is defroster--for safety incase your car loses vacuum and you need to see out the windshield you can always have defroster.
Try holding your hand above the defrost outlets when this happens to see if the air is coming out there. When you let off the gas the vacuum in the intake part of the motor increases and the heater A/C should go back to the original setting. This is easier if the blower motor is on high speed.
If you are saying the blower motor quits completely, this could be connection problem. Unless you have automatic temperature controlled air conditioning, you can check this by turning the blower on high speed and see if it still happens. The high speed blower on a manual switch unit uses a different circuit and a different relay to give full electrical current to the blower.
IF it's an automatic control blower speed with a digital readout, I assume it works much like my 98 leSabre's. There is a blower control module that is an electronic unit that varies the power to the blower. There could be a flaw it in.
If your problem seems vacuum related, there will be a small black plastic or rubber tube about 1/8 inch diameter coming from your intake area of your motor. It will go to a tank that stores vacuum. It may be on the firewall or under the front fender somewhere. The tube may have a split or crack that's leaking vacuum away hurting the vacuum level.
An engine that's worn may have less vacuum also. One test I would do is do the acceleration up a long hill where a vacuum drop occurs and keep the car in a lower gear so the speed of the motor is high. Start in 2nd gear and shift it manually to 3 and see if keeping the motor speed high 3000 rpm, e.g., helps keep the vacuum higher.
Also the motor cuts out the AC compressor when you push the gas pedal down a certain amount, maybe 2/3, to let the motor produce more power. The cooling stops but the blower and internal air movement should stay the same. Same cure; keep the motor moving at higher speed so you're not pushing as far down on the pedal. I have a long hill with a merge from interstate to interstate where in 4th the motor required more opening so I just keep the motor in 3rd with the shift lever.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The vacuum line at the firewall?????
Was the line completely severed? In that case you'd have no vacuum inside.
Even if it's not for the heating AC controls if the line is open that drops vacuum for the motor overall.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Just my 2 cents worth.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I don't know how the whole unit bolts on in your 3.1.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
fixing glove box handle [it got stuck and trying to pull it open resulted it in breaking off.] Glove box is now taped close
Serpinebelt change
just curious what it will cost to get it fixed at dealership.
Is this one of those crazy deals with the Body Control Module where it is relearning what the correct level is?
Any ideas? Many thanks.
Thanks
Robert
Example; ebay link
or you can price them here
Helm inc.
note that most of the manuals are a 2 or 3 volume set. You can read on the front how many books they are--it will say 1 out of 2, etc.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
You may be able to repair.The remote pops open using a coin or screwdriver to carefully open it. The keypad you push is a rubber layer with rubber buttons that stick up through the hard top of the remote. The back of those button have a conductive material that touches copper layers on the top of the circuit board under them and shorts between the two circuits there. That's what makes the remote operate. Lightly wipe those contacts on the circuit board with a clean cloth with rubbing alcohol. It make take off the gooey stuff that accumulates there on touchpads made like that.
I fixed my Panasonic phone handsets the same way when the "three" button quit working unless you pushed several times to make contact. It was hard to take apart however...
If your remotes don't work, try that on one.
Remote seller google search
Ebay search
It's the FCC ID number that needs to match the on on your remotes. If you have remotes that have a large #1 or #2 on the back for memory seats and mirrors on your car, you will have to have the dealer or someone with a Tech II computer connect to the car to program them.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
I wouldn't clean the button side unless the contact cleaning doesn't work. I'm hoping you can get your old ones working and just don't pickup the replacements at the dealer or ask for your money back.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks, Dave :confuse: