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Buick Regal

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  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,690
    There is no thing as a tune up anymore. I realize it has different meanings to different folk. It used to mean replacing the points and plugs and rotor cap.

    Did you replace ignition wires? Did you replace spark plugs with AC Delco plug?

    At what speed and what gear are you feeling uneveness?

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  • daveb7daveb7 Posts: 1
    I had the same symptoms on my 02. It turned out to be a plugged up catalytic converter, not a trans problem. The dealer replaced it under the smog warranty.
  • adriver3adriver3 Posts: 3
    Ignition wires were replaced. Spark plugs replaced but don't know of brand of spark plugs but can check that--may be NGK. Typically 40-60 mph on light acceleration--even downhill with light acceleration...high gear Thanks.
  • Hello. First time here. I have a 3.8 V6 with 112,000 miles. Stalled in traffic the other day. Pushed it off the street and allowed it to cool down for 5 minutes then it started right up. Two days ago it stalled again and I allowed it to cool and it started again. I drove it to work today and turned it off. Tried to restart and it wouldn't -- cranks fine but just won't ignite. Replaced air and fuel filters a few days ago. Thank you for helping.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,690
    Is it giving a spark while cranking? Attach a used spark plug to a wire and place on grounded part of engine to see spark.

    Is it firing the injectors? You can feel the pulse of use a 194 bulb with leads straightened plugged into the connector for one of the injectors while cranking.

    Possibilities: bad battery connection, especially if you have a double layer positive (red) connector. Pull plastic back to see both connectors.

    Crank position sensor. Camshaft position sensor. Some people have found
    splashing cold water on the crankshaft position sensor will change it and make the thing work and give spark and then start.

    I have also read that a ground wire connection to the connector plate below the coils can stop the ignition system.

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  • doug1958doug1958 Posts: 1
    I just started to have this problem with this car after a fill up i drove it for awhile and it started sputtering and i was smelling something like it was burning. checked for leaks found none all fluid level fine just had the oil and filter changed 2 weeks ago.
    car sounds louder then before. Any ideas
  • headachheadach Posts: 17
    My brother has a 1989 Buick Regal Gran Sport with the 3.1 Multi Port v6. It has 173000 miles on it and runs great on the highway. But ounce in warms up in city traffic the idle gets rough and tries to stall and sometimes show check engine light. If he put it in nuetral it stalls less often but still idles rough. I figured by taking it out of drive it will remove stress. He has replaced so many parts we couldn't begin to tell u. The ones he has replaced tring to fix this problem are the cat, plugs wires (ac delco)(bosch) (with the ac delcos the car wouldn't run and they kept cracking off in the engine)(bosch it runs and don't crack), several fuel injectors that were bad, fuel pump, fuel filter, map sensor and many o2 sensors over the last 72000 miles. He loves the car and it is his back up for when his olds alero is down. However he has put a large amount of cash in it since he bought it used in 03 when it had 100000 on it. Do you think it might be the fuel pressure regulator, mass air flow sensor or something else.
  • bdlabsbdlabs Posts: 1
    a/c and heater work great when the car is cold. When the car reaches running temp, a/c and heater will not work at all. I have replaced the control module on the dash. ( it is the manual one, not the climate control unit.) I have tested all the relays in the circuit. I can manually turn on the clutch for the compressor and the high speed fans at the relay and fuse box. If I let the car cool, everything will work again. Thanks for your help. Paul
  • headachheadach Posts: 17
    I have a 1993 Pontiac Trans Sport with the 3.8 and it has been doing the same thing for about 2 years. I have replaced Mass Airflow sensor which helped but not it, Tune up and throttle Position sensor. I have yet to find problem. I heard it was the torque converter from several people but have had three transmission repair shops drive it and told me it is not the tranni or torque converter. Good luck i have given up and drive it anyways. It has 156000 on it so i am at the point i don't wanna put more money into it. If u hear it is something simply or it is the torque converter please post it i look hear often and would love to fix this. Thank you and i hope this helped
  • paresh1paresh1 Posts: 7
    Hello All:

    Has any one charged the AC for 1996 Buick regal? I know where the charging ports are. They are right below water resorvayor. But do not know which port it is.

    Is it the one with thick tube or the one with the thin tube? Which one is charging port? What should be the pressure?

    Any help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • Hello. Did you ever get any replys to this thread or did you ever figure out which port was the charging port some other way??

    I am trying to figure out the same thing..I went and bought a 20 dollar manual and it just told me that only a service professional should do anything with the A/C!! I have done it on my other vehicles without an issue because usually they put a blue or different colored cap on the correct port.

    If you can shed any light on this I would greatly appreciate it. If not I will keep looking until I figure it out.

    Thanks
    Barn
  • paresh1paresh1 Posts: 7
    Yes, I was able to charge the my AC.

    The charge port is located under the Air Filter Box.

    There are two port. The correct port is located on the thick tube connecting to cylinder. The thick tube comes from compressor to clynder and from clynder to evaporator in the dash board.

    Let me know if you have any further question.
  • I have a '91 buick regal, 3.1 engine. It recently overheated while driving on the highway in very hot weather. The reserve tank to the radiator was full of water, so we are not sure why it overheated.

    I am wondering if anyone can tell me what I may be able to do to fix the engine. We have a broken valve, piston, and head. I have read that it really entails a lot to be able to do this ourselves. Anyone know more or less what the price range would be to fix this? Someone has suggested to us that it would be better to just get a new engine for the car. Opinions?? Any help is greatly appreciated. Below are pics of the piston and the head.
    <img src="http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq96/desertshi/various017.jpg
    <img src="http://i437.photobucket.com/albums/qq96/desertshi/various018.jpg
  • 1993 regal 3.8. I have changed the thermostat 3x, new radiator, flushed system.
    The heater works well sometimes & not at all sometimes. HELP???
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,690
    Does your thermostat housing have a bleed screw for letting air out after the system has run to full temp?

    Does your radiator stay full-not the reservoir-the radiator?

    If so, when you're done refilling and purging air from the heater, see if there's air in the thermostat housing and the radiator is full. Probably the heater can be purged of air by revving the motor after the car has run long enough on a short drive for the lower radiator hose to be hot.

    Do both heater hoses stay the same temperature indicating enough flow?

    The only thing I've heard that might apply is that when you think everything is full, have someone hold the motor at 1500 or so and you'll see the radiator level go down. Refill the radiator while they hold the motor at that speed. Put the radiator cap back on while they're still holding the speed. I've heard a talk show tell people to do that.

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  • I noticed about 2 months ago my regal is not getting very good gas mileage. My car has 86,000 miles and the average mpg was 23.5 mpg and quickly dropped to 19 mpg.
    The low traction light was on and the brake light was also on. I took the car to a local mechanic and they added brake fluid which took care of the lights. Then they hooked it up to a computer and found that the car had been misfiring so they changed the spark plugs and wires.
    They thought maybe the brakes were hung up and when they checked them they had to replace the pads and rotors.
    I brought my car home and I've had 3 tanks of gas through it and the average is now 16.9 mpg.

    Does anyone have an idea what the problem could be? I was hoping to take the car back to the same mechanic but he hasn't returned my call. Taking that as a bad sign I made an appointment with another mechanic on Tuesday.

    What do you think the problem could be? :sick:

    P.S. I'd also add that twice the review mirror lights stopped working and started working again hours later.I haven't noticed this problem in a week. Not sure that it's at all related.
  • Yes, I had spark plug replaced twice.

    I think engine 3800 V6 has issues. The head Gasket may have damaged and coolent may have leaked into teh Engine and May be damaging the Head assembly or something.

    This engine has history of coolent getting into the engine and damaging teh engine and mechanic do not know what the hell is going on.

    Let me know what you find out.
  • I have same issue. Changed teh Radiator and same issue. I changed teh thermostat and same issue. The engine coolent light would come on.

    The mechenic are idiots and do not know what the hell is going on.

    Then I changed the Coolent sensor. Located on the right side of teh radiator and that fixed the problem. For some reaon it was not circulating teh coolent.

    Does teh "Low Coolent" come on?

    This Model 3800 has design issue on coolent system. It also damages the engine head Gasket and other plastic Parts due to the over heating of the engine.
  • Hi, my Buick Regal runs really cold. I've put three different thermostats in it finally leaving a 195 in it. When the car is at idle the heat from the vents gets a little warmer, once you start to drive it gets cooler. The running temperature of the car is only 50F at best. Can any give me an idea as to what this may be. Any help would be appreshiated.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Crossroads of America: I70 & I75Posts: 17,690
    Not too sure about 93 Regal's setup.

    When you say running temp of the car, do you mean the motor? or the passenger compartment?

    If you're saying the motor itself is hot and upper radiator hose stays cool until thermostat opens...,
    is radiator full -- not reservoir, the actual radiator. Leaks will often drop that level without using reservoir fluid to refill. Then the heater doesn't get proper flow.

    Is the heater core full of coolant? With radiator full and motor warmed thoroughly, run motor at 2500 rpm for 10 seconds, and repeat for total of 5 times. That should burp the heater air out.

    Then bleed the air at the thermostat housing if it has a bleeder screw on top.

    Are both heater hoses the same temp when motor is completely warm--with the blower on high. That's an indicator of enough flow. IF not heater core could be blocked by crud. Sometimes a cooling system flush will clear radiator chemically. But it's usually better to remove hoses and try to gently flush both directions with water being careful not to apply water line pressure to the heater from a garden hose.

    Is the water pump circulating properly. When motor is warmed up, does water move through the radiator when the motor is gunned. A few people have found worn paddles on the impeller that don't circulate enough. Usually overheating results. One person found the impeller was sheared off completely and just lying in there (he'd let the car freeze without antifreeze in coolant and pump apparently froze and twisted off impeller when car was started).

    Is the belt around the water pump in the proper direction? One person found a shorter belt had been used and the water pump was running the wrong direction--previous owner had replaced it in an emergency.

    Just trying to suggest things since I don't know how long you've owned the car or it's history of maintenance.

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