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Oldsmobile Aurora

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Comments

  • zinc1zinc1 Member Posts: 133
    Well, just replaced the famous GM air deflector under the engine. I can only assume that, for aesthetic body design purposes, this piece is necessary to assist in air flow to the radiator (although the angle is odd). Still curious so I'll check with other GM owners - my neighbors have a Saturn with a huge air deflector (theirs flips up when hit, which they said they do often, ours doesn't).

    blk97aurora, Henri - I think it'll save money in the long run to switch if the rotors are going to fail often. Probably depends on the price of the calipers.

    garnes - Good suggestion not to let Goober do the oil change. When installing the air dam today I noticed a dried yellow sealer around the drain plug. It wasn't there before and it never leaked. I had a lube shop do the oil change last week and I'm hoping they didn't strip the plug. I swear 90% of the mechanics/technicians in L.A. couldn't flip a burger without breaking it.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    garnes, I reread three early road tests -- all 1995 model year with 3.71 autobahn package:

    Motor Trend, Sept. 1994, 0-to-60 in 8.2 sec, 1/4-mile in 16.3 sec at 87.1 mph
    Car and Driver 1994 Annual, 0-to-60 in 7.4 sec, 1/4-mile in 15.7 sec at 89 mph
    Road & Track, July 1994, 0-to-60 in 8.6 sec, 1/4-mile in 16.5 sec at 86.0 mph

    Big differences in 0-to-60 for what seemingly should have been nearly identical cars.
  • darren13darren13 Member Posts: 7
    I was at the dealer today looking at the '96 Aurora. It has 46k miles, and the dealer is asking 11.4k. The car drives nicely and is clean (although a little bit of the surface paint on the center console is coming off). Carfax says the car checks out, and the dealer put a 30day/1k mi warranty ON THE POWERTRAIN.

    I am inclined to buy the car if I can get him down to 10.5-11k, but I want advice on the following:

    1. With the warranty, should I push having it taken to a mechanic?

    2. When I asked the salesman to provide a service history for the car, he said that all he could do is give a Carfax report; I told him I had done that already, but that he could also print out a history of the dealer service by plugging in the VIN# on his computer. He went away for a moment and came back and said that he could do it, but could only provide "warranty" service information. Isn't this inaccurate?

    Is the salesman clueless or a dishonest thug? It is clear that the car was serviced at another dealer; I saw some receipts in the car. The seller's service department was supposedly closed so the printout couldn't be provided. I'm leaning toward thinking he just wanted to close the deal, but wasn't really trying to hide anything. I guess I'll have to wait and see.
  • darren13darren13 Member Posts: 7
    Oh, by the way, I wanted to thank everyone who responded to my question. YOu guys have a lot of knowledge about this car (much more than the dealer).
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    blk97 - thanks for the info. I guess you have to take that 0 to 60 stuff with a grain of salt. I noticed that Car and Driver lists the new Lexus LS 430 at 6.7, but Edmunds has 6.4. Maybe the correct response to the various published info is "whatever".

    Darren - my opinion - if the car was about to die or have a major problem, and that's why it's on the lot (being dumped), I'd think you would notice the problem within 30 days/1000 miles.

    I bought my 98 this spring with only 13,000 miles on it, and the in-service date was 12/21/98, so it still had loads of warranty left. I was still nervous and figured the crazy low miles were too good to be true. I had the worst buyers (what the hell did I just do) for about a week. I was sure something was going to pop up. But it all checked out, carfax, tire wear, mechanic check and all, and it's been a great car. I did bring it in to turn the rotors and fix a loose piece of interior plastic - and just this week the water pump went out after 7,000 of my own miles, but that's been it. The warranty record is good. I think that should tell you if the car has had a major problem history and is a lemon or semi lemon. Mine had a fog light replaced. That's it. I was so crazy, I read the shadow of the original dealer name (sticker removed) in Canada. I tracked them down and called. (this was all after I bought it, but I had to calm myself) And they had record of the car being in exactly 3 months after it was sold for an oil change - with only 1,200 miles on it! So yeah, it was hardly driven and it checked out.

    Again, in my opinion, the Aurora has got to be one of the best looking and smooth rides inside and out, and has respectable power too from a world class engine. All that for 11K +/- for a well maintained 96 sounds great. I hope yours is a good one.

    Mine is a black autobahn with the bose and sunroof and I've worn my arms off rubbing it down with Meguires mirror glaze No. 7 and their liquid wax so it's like a mirror. I love the darn thing. There is very little I'd be tempted to trade for it - even imports costing over twice as much (new).
  • tommyboisxty9tommyboisxty9 Member Posts: 8
    ANY engine is too much... you can speed with any car.... I got 3 speeding tickets over my three years of driving -- 2 of which came from an 88HP Ford Escort wagon...

    The third was in my V8 TBird -- but was not as bad a ticket as the first two. Basically -- you either drive at a good speed or you speed and learn... After those tickets I slowed down. I admit, I still speed -- but not excessively so. By speed I mean I'll do 64 on the inerstate where its 55 or 74 when 65.... etc.
    ----
    Today I drove a 2001 3.5L Aurora -- I reallllly liked it... for my complete "review" lol see here:
    Here's what I posted at acura-tl.com (I'm stuck between an Aurora and a 99 3.2TL

    Drove an '01 Aurora
    I was very impressed!!!!!
    It was an '01 Gold Aurora, 3.5L V6.

    Engine ran very quietly & very smoothly.

    Interior felt very tight, well-constructed and rattle free.

    Stock (not optional BOSE) 6-speaker sound system blew the TL's
    BOSE outta the water... this thing had amazing bass & excellent highs.

    Love the real wood -- but we won't get into that.

    Rode very well -- firm -- but comfortable. Cornered well (didn't get much of a chance to really flog it)

    Had very good midrange torque -- doing 45-55 -- step on it and it went pulled very strong up to 80 (was nearing residential areas so I couldn't do much else)

    One annoyance was the fan control -- it was a dial that lit up approximately 10 little LED's as u turned it up. That was fine, however when u actually cranked it up or down -- it seemed to pause too long before it finally did what the dial was telling it to do.

    Off the line it felt very good as well -- I have to 1/2 mash the gas in my V8 TBird in order to start quick -- this hardly.

    It's avg. MPG over 40k that the computer had stored was 23.9 -- the owner claimed he had gotten up to 36 on the highway and generally gets around 22 around town. That's a lot better than what I've heard some of the TL's.

    It doesn't have HID's

    I'm going to have to drive a TL again -- because I was very impressed with this car.
  • tommyboisxty9tommyboisxty9 Member Posts: 8
    WHAT #/size/style whatever you call it are used in the 2001 Aurora's
    *Low Beam Headlights (4 lights system right?)
    *High Beam Headlights
    *Driving Lights
    ???
    Thanks
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Were I in your shoes, I'd STILL get it checked out by a reputable mechanic. Look where it's been parked to see if there are any oil/fluid leaks (Northstar and its derivatives are known to do this, or burn oil). Look under the front bumper to see if the plastic air dam is still attached. Check the window and door seals (especially back window) to see if anything's leaking or loose.

    I think the dealer's right in that he can only look up what's been done on the car under warranty (that's what my dealer told me when I was negotiating to buy my '98). In my case, all of the warranty issues with my car were trim/etc. related - nothing with engine or tranny.

    Other "chronic" Aurora problems include the AC compressor, and the parking assist "mirror points up at the sky" problem... seems to have some tranny problems at higher mileage, too. Might think about a third-party extended warranty (WarrantyByNet, 1SourceAutoWarranty), since, if something with that engine or drivetrain goes wrong, it can be big bucks, easy 2-3x the cost of a decent warranty...

    Hope this helps, and good luck,

    --Robert
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    >Mine is a black autobahn with the bose and sunroof

    >and I've worn my arms off rubbing it down with

    >Meguires mirror glaze No. 7 and their liquid wax so

    >it's like a mirror. I love the darn thing. There is very

    >little I'd be tempted to trade for it - even imports

    >costing over twice as much (new).


    Garnes: you and I have the same car, and the same passion for it. I just spent from 10 a.m. until 9 p.m. (except for a break for dinner) detailing my Aurora (I used Zaino from <http://www.zainobros.com> - did the whole thing, Dawn to remove wax (twice :-), Z-18 clay bar, Z-7 car wash, Z-1 polish lock, and Z-5 polish for swirls and scratches), and the car looks sensational - an incredible, mirror-like finish. I'll be putting multiple coats of it on, and then take some more pictures to share. Suffice it to say, this product works as well as they say it does - if you have the time, it will give you the best finish I've ever seen on a car - it really is amazing!


    I also agree with you, there's nothing else I'd rather be driving (my wife just got a Grand Prix GTP and, while it's nice, it's no Aurora). I never want to sell this car (I do believe it will be a classic as the last great Oldsmobile), and hope that I can garage it in another 2-3 years and keep it as a "Sunday/weekend driver" (guess we better get a 3-car garage at our next house :-)


    --Robert

  • tommyboisxty9tommyboisxty9 Member Posts: 8
    Is there anything available for the 3.5L engine?
    I found so far a K&N Filter... on www.alero.org they have some OLV? concept one with a 3.5L engine tahts the same one -- but with K&N and a Borla exhaust -- i couldn't find that exhaust on borlas website but the two increased the horspower to 245. That along with 200less lbs than the V8 should make quite a difference -- anyhow, anyone konw of any avaialble?
  • dishwishdishwish Member Posts: 11
    I had asked the question awhile back, on how do you tell if you have the autobahn package in your Aurora? I got several responses on the different ways. I checked these out, and I do have the autobahn package. Thanks for the tips.

    Does anyone know what percentage of the Auroras have the autobahn package?

    Another question: Does anybody have the price list of the options carried on the 98 Aurora, when it was new?

    Henri - Now that you got your Aurora back, you have to take it out and start blowing away all those minivans that took advantage of you when you had a loaner. Redeem yourself Henri!!! Redeem yourself!!!
  • drew43drew43 Member Posts: 18
    QUESTION: Can you replace the fuel regulator without replacing the entire fuel rail assembly??I have the offical service manuel for my 1995 aurora,paid $126.00 for it.It says,and I quote:AT THE TIME OF THIS PUBLICATION THE FUEL REGULATOR IS NOT SEVICEABLE.IF THE FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR IS FOUND TO BE FAULTY,THE FUEL RAIL ASSEMBLY(with the fuel pressure regulator)SHOULD BE REPLACED.It's the AT THE TIME OF THIS PUBLICATION part thats got me confused.I belive the manuel was published in 1994,does that mean it's possible that it is now serviceable??I think this is the source of my HARD STARTING problem.Would hate to replace the entire fuel rail assembly if I did'nt have to.Has anyone else had this problem? Where it starts fine 1st thing in the morning,but after sitting for a few hours it cranks excessivley (5 seconds appox.) before starting now starting to stall at low idle.would appreciate any information on this.THANKS
  • hardestyhardesty Member Posts: 166
    The 2001 Aurora uses: Low Beams (which sit behind projector lenses) #9006 (55W): High beams (gloriously exposed in massive reflectors) #9005 (65W): Driving/Fog Lamps (nice touch from the original Aurora prototype) #880 (27W).
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    tommyboy - you have to check some past postings for mods. Check out corsaperf.com. They make a good (my understanding anyway) cat-back for the Caddy and I've hassled them already to make one for my 98 Aurora. They did mention something about the new Aurora and the Seville being on the same platform, and that the exhaust may be the same. Call them. They claim to have got another 20 HP at the wheels (25 + at the engine) on the 300 HP Seville. If the air box is the same as the old ones, you can "open it up". Remove the innner liner on the top part, and remove the "plastic thingy" from the bottom and cut the bottom hole in the plastic to match the existing hole. Buy a back-up to go to stock if needed. Read the old postings from a 2 or 3+ weeks ago. Call superchips and hassle them to come up with a microtuner to change the computer program too. That can add a lot.

    Hammen - yeah, I had mine clay-sticked too when I first got it to remove a bunch of faint white splatter all over the car. Best money I spent on the car. I think it set a good foundation for glazing it and waxing it. My understand and experience with glazes is that it has microscopic grit that produces heat from the friction of rubbing. The clear coat is not removed but softened just for a fraction of a second and is "smoothed" over the scratches. You have to rub like hell to get this result though. Like icing on a cake being reworked to remove a sneak taste. Thanks for the product info. I'll check it out. I've never had swirl problems. I just use the meguires NO. 7 once in awhile, but usually just wax it. I worked all the scratches out when I got it. I was out there all the time. The neighbors must think I'm nuts. I'll bet yours think the same.

    I swear the Bose is so good that I don't want to get to wherever I'm going because the tunes are so good. Cruising around on a nice night with the sunroof open and the tunes jammin' and the F-16 dash all lit up (as described by my buddy)is really nice. Got to put in some Brian Setzer on the bose. The big band/rock thing pumping through it is great.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    Hammen - Ok, I just check out the Zaino guys. Sounds cool. I'll probably try it out. I love the Meguires liquid wax, but it does fade rather quickly. The slick feeling is half gone in a couple weeks at best. How's your stuff hold up?
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    Your problems sounds like the fuel regulator (or pressure regulator). I had the same problem with my 98 and they replaced the regulator under warranty. So I don't know exactly what was done. I think just the fuel pressure regulator was replaced though.
  • drew43drew43 Member Posts: 18
    UGH!!! I just got my CARFAX.Have had my AroarA for over 2 years (1995 model)and have had no problems(until recently)Anyway,out of curiosity I sent for a CARFAX eveything checked out o.k.EXCEPT the dreaded ODOMETER ROLLBACK ALERT!If this report is correct she has about 8,000 more miles on her than I thought!!DAMN!! I wished I owned a computer 2 years ago!!OH WELL,what are you gonna do?? I still love my AroarA,she's just a little older than I thought.(WISH I NEVER SENT FOR THAT DAMN CARFAX THOUGH!!)p.s. thanks for the info. FJK57702
  • zinc1zinc1 Member Posts: 133
    drew43 - I wouldn't put a lot of stock in the Carfax report. Mine was clean too, but it cost a mint in repairs as soon as I bought it. The problem you have now is when the next prospective owner checks Carfax and sees the rollback - if you ever decide to sell it that is ;)
  • ewtewt Member Posts: 127
    The fuel pressure regulator is available seperately and is probably the cause of your hard starting problem. My car had the same symptoms a couple of months ago (lots of black smoke after a start too from the extra gas pooled in the intake manifold) and that was the culprit. Pull the cover off the top of the motor, pull the vacuum hose off the regulator and see if gas is coming out the nipple at the top of the regulator. If so, connect the hose back up, and let it bleed the fuel pressure off before trying to replace it to minimize the gas spraying out. It is very easy to replace. You don't even need any tools other than the socket to get the cover off if I remember correctly. It was $70ish at retail.
  • zinc1zinc1 Member Posts: 133
    Maciek sent pics of his black '95 Aurora! They're posted here.
  • garnesgarnes Member Posts: 950
    drew43 - I can't imagine someone would roll back a car for only 8,000 miles. No way. I'd bet the carfax could be goofed. I believe it checks records, so perhaps the miles were entered wrong by the state BMV employees. You know those state BMV people are really on top of things - ha ha. I agree with zinc1 - your car is probably honest, but that goofy record is there to scare a future buyer. If you put a lot of miles on it, it will not matter much anyway. My car came from Canada, so Carfax shows the "grey markey history" warning because it was not originally registered in the US and "does not meet emissions". That may be true of Europe or Mexico, but not Canada. When you pop the hood, it has the sticker right in front that says it does - it's the same car that is sold in the US. No difference. I asked the dealer, and he gave me several VIN's on other cars on the lot from Canada, and they all checked out the same - as the dealer said. You're probably fine.
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    The 98 price list was:
    Base: 35960
    shipping: 665
    autobahn: 395
    disk changer: 460
    heated seats: 295
    sunroof: 995
    bose: 871
    chrome wheels: 800

    This is mostly everything. Note that the intro 95 base including shipping was 32000. I took these from an Edmunds spring price book.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    My '97 has averaged about 1500 miles per quart over the 25,000 miles I have owned. I used Mobil 1 from my first oil change, so I don't have a basis for comparing to non-synthetic oil. This is higher oil consumption than I expected in a relatively new car. Other Aurora and Northstar owners report similar experince. Is 1 qt per 1500 miles "normal" or do I have a problem?
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    Oil - The cars burn oil period. the amount will depend on how you drive the car. If you ZINC the car a lot (like I do), you will probably burn more since the engine's RPM are higher during the take-off. I personally don't think it is anything to be concerned with.

    Battery - I am becoming a little concerned agout my battery. With a build date of December 94, I am beginning to wonder if I should attempt another winter eith the battery. The DIC says everything is okay, but I am mindful of the posting about the readout being from the alternator and not the battery. OPINIONS????

    P.S. - I dusted my first MINIVAN today.
  • pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    Is there a way to see if the wires are assembly line-original or if they actually replaced them like they said? I remember the wires on my 3.4 DOCE V6 in my 94 Cutlass were numbered 1-6 from the factory and I have seen that on other factory wires, but the GM dealer replacements aren't numbered. Maybe they just replaced the plugs and skipped the wires on my 95? This Pontiac/Buick dealer probably had the plugs on hand but didn't feel like ordering out for the wires. Anybody still have the original set of wires?Jay
  • fjk57702fjk57702 Member Posts: 539
    Since they fixed the oil leak my 98 doesn't use oil ~ .5 quarts between oil changes (3000-4000miles or more).
  • cwiley1cwiley1 Member Posts: 82
    I own a '95 and a '97 Aurora both w/autobahn. We really enjoy the cars, BUT, in the summertime in KS where the temp is 100+ the guages read 220 to 240. Olds dealer say that is okay. I would like my high speed cooling fan to come on at the start or could be controlled manually. Olds dealer says there isn't any way this can be done because of the computer control, it turns on the "check engine light". Manual says it comes with 180 degree thermostat, Olds dealer says it comes with 195. I don't have any problems when going the speed limit, engines run 195 - 200 degrees, just traffic jams. any suggestions. I have read some of the other concerns about the temperature, but no solutions. Thanks
  • drew43drew43 Member Posts: 18
    garnes-zinc1 yeah,the more I think about it you guys are right.I think this CARFAX is goofed.On 3/21/95 It has the car being inspected with 7,893 miles on it.Info source just says,Inspection co.NewYork.8 days later 3/29/95 It has car at 13 miles on it.Info source New York motor vehicle dept.under general comments just says TITLE ISSUED.WHATEVA!!I don't plan on selling her anyway.I may have to sell my house because of this car,but i'm not selling the car, gotta keep your prioritys straight you know.
    May have wasted some more money,anybody out there ever try ALLDATA.For $25.00 bucks you can get all service bullitens tech info etc.for 1 year.I signed up for it.It seems really good,tons of info.Just 1 problem the site is SLOWER than HELL!!Keep getting a page that says "having trouble with server"Maybe it will be better tommorow.I'll do anything to stay away from those GOOBERS down at the local dealership.I'm out.
  • drew43drew43 Member Posts: 18
    cwiley1- I think the dealer is right on this one.I belive these cars just run hot.I was concerned about it too.I have the offical service manuel.($126.00)It says the low speed fans don't kick on until the engine temp. reaches 223 degrees farenheigt.And the high speed fans don't kick on until the temp reaches 230.I thought they should kick on earlier than that, but I guess not.I don't think there is anything you can do about it.But STAY TUNED there are people that visit this site that know more than I do.
  • gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    is a chronic problem for me. It seems every other month one side blows out.

    Henri --- Glad you got your baby back. Just take it out on the highway and really enjoy the smooth sailing that the classic provides. My 95 was built in May and I am going to order me a battery because I don't think I want to be caught this winter in Chicago with a 6 year old battery.

    iahmatthew -- The part that controls the air doors was cracked on my 95 and that caused the doors not to open for the air. I will get back to you with the part number.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    pizza442,

    As far as I know, the plug wires on my '97 are original. I bought it in September 1999 at 37,000 miles. The wires are marked to identify the cylinders (2, 4, 6, 8) -- I haven't examined the rear bank. Also imprinted on the gray surface of each wire is a white rectangle positioned where the wires are secured by notches attached to each fuel injector; looks to me like this was an assembly line job aid. Wires 6 and 8 also have a round purple dot next to the white rectangle; I have no idea what this may signify.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    iahmatthew,

    By "recommended battery" do you mean AC/Delco brand? Do any other manufacturers (marketers) sell a battery of the right size and with the venting to fit our Auroras?
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Garnes: I don't have first-hand knowledge on longevity of Zaino, seeing how I just used it for the first time on Saturday. From what I've read, it's supposed to last for 4-6 months. It's a real bear to prep your car for this (remove wax, wash, clay, wash), but, once that's done, and the Z-1 base is down, it takes 20-30 minutes (each time) to put the polishes on/take 'em off.

    I now have applied 2 coats of the Z-5 swirl/scratch polish (with the Z-6 gloss enhancer in between), and the car positively glows. I want to apply another coat of that, and then a couple of the Z-2 show car polish, before taking some pictures and posting the link here...

    Absolutely amazing stuff... and no, I have no vested interest in the company, other than as a very satisfied consumer...

    --Robert
    (who still has his wife's white Grand Prix GTP to do :-)
  • zinc1zinc1 Member Posts: 133
    I'm keeping an eye out for an Aurora hubcap for Maciek. He lost the left rear one on his 95. Looking for a used one in the States to purchase, as it costs too much for him to buy a new one and ship it to Poland. If anyone sees one for sale, please let me know. Thanks.

    Also have to confess I was in a hurry to get the car waxed today so I used Nu Finish on her. It looks and feels very nice right now. And it's supposed to last a full year. We'll see. Anyone tried it?
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    zinc, in a previous life, I used NuFinish on my Grand Prix. It did OK, but it does haze/fade over time, and definitely doesn't last a year - 3-4 months, maybe. You also have to watch out for swirling (more noticeable on a darker car).

    One other thing I like about the Zaino is that it applies very easily, and it's not difficult to remove, meaning that I have little to no overwax leftover on the car (a personal pet peeve, again, especially bad on a black car)...

    --Robert
  • shucknetshucknet Member Posts: 98
    You looking for a rim or just a center cap?
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    We're not supposed to use Town Hall to buy and sell stuff. Perhaps you could take this hubcap conversation off-line.

    Thanks.

    Pat
    Host
    Sedans Message Board
  • zinc1zinc1 Member Posts: 133
    I posted a request on my Classic Aurora Forum for this. You can reply there, or email me if you find one. Thanks.

    hammen2 - I did some reading on these products last night. Seems Zaino takes a few steps to complete, but it's used for show car quality, and, if you're right, lasts longer than Nu Finish. Nu Finish had okay reviews. Some were great reviews: used for 10 years and loved it. Some mentioned orange peel, yellowing, average appearance compared to better waxes. The Polymer base vs. Carnauba is supposed to last longer. It's easy enough to apply.

    Also dropped karen@edmunds.com a suggestion for a new thread in the owners club: I liked the 'You Know You're an Aurora Fanatic When...' series, but I can't keep track of the entrys here.
  • shucknetshucknet Member Posts: 98
    I think it would also be cool if we had sub-headings inside the problem and solution section for common Auroritis-type problems such as the water pump, surging, back window seal, etc. That way it would be easy to find info from others on these problems.
  • shucknetshucknet Member Posts: 98
    Sorry about that - was just curious since all Auroras (to my knowledge) had aluminum rims instead of steel with hubcaps. Thought it might have been some weird setup or something.
  • nne3jxcnne3jxc Member Posts: 134
    Is there a common problem with the rear window seals on these cars? I noticed that mine is a little loose on the drivers side-bottom edge. I put it down to age (mine's a '95) and was planning to squirt some silicone sealant in there to seal/glue it up.
    Since it was mentioned a few posts up, I thought I'd ask -- is this a indicative of a really serious problem, or should I just glue it?

    JC
  • vwbus1979vwbus1979 Member Posts: 42
    Heya nne3jxc;

    Yeah...There IS a common problem with the rear window seal...GM flaked when it came to this minor problem. Keep in mind that the seal you SEE is not really a seal, but a filler for the gap that the real seal leaves...So that plastic that wraps all the way around your car down the back window and around the front windshield is merely a shroud. It can be glued, whacked, nailed, stapled or taped in any way you see fit.

    My car was in the shop for 6 weeks because of this problem...Hey! I got to drive a new caddy while they worked on it! Anyhow...It has since come off in places, so I just used a very strong epoxy and it fixed it.

    The real seal is underneath the cheap plastic seal. Keep that in mind...
  • drew43drew43 Member Posts: 18
    NNE3JXC- Yes,this a very common problem.My 95'has the same problem,to fix it correctly I belive the rear window has to be pulled out and new mouldings/seals have to be ordered.Took mine to a glass shop the guy there said he's done plenty of auroras the dealer ships them over to him.gave me a price of $180-$200.00 if I remember right.Being the great procrastinator that I am,haven't had it done yet.He assured me this was a cosmetic problem,and the window will NOT leak.But said that over time the wind would work on it and it would just get worse.I'll have to have him do it.(SOMEDAY)
  • vwbus1979vwbus1979 Member Posts: 42
    Zinc...Any news with the replacement of your curb grinder? What is it for? Did GM install it to make me wince everytime I pull out of my driveway? Why? Why? Why? Mine is hanging by a thread and I would love to replace it. I saw a part number a few posts earlier and I will be sure to check it out as I hear from you. If it proves to be purposeless, then I will simply rip it off like a bad hang nail.

    Ewww...
  • vwbus1979vwbus1979 Member Posts: 42
    Drew43: I originally thought that the outer seal was the real seal, but I saw my car with it off and there is a huge THICK seal underneath that flimsy one that actually protects the car...

    They do not have to remove the glass. If they had to remove the glass, it would not be $200.00! Do not take this repair lightly. It is VERY difficult and if you do not have a decent craftsman look at it, then it will look crappy and blow off again. Trust me...Remember...I'm a record holder here! If it is bubbling in the center (rear) or peeling away at the base of the windshield, just use a simple black resin to fix it yourself. If it is much worse and your car is under the FACTORY warranty, then take it to the dealer. Be sure you get a nice rental, cuz it's gunna be awhile!

    VM
  • drew43drew43 Member Posts: 18
    UGH!! Just clicked on the link: Aurora owners photo gallery, from the Town Hall site.What is that thing? does'nt look like an AroarA to me.(sorry could'nt help myself)
  • patpat Member Posts: 10,421
    Karen's just showing you how it is done. Post your own picture of your AroarA and show us all what they really look like! ;->

    Pat
    Host
    Sedans Message Board
  • cwiley1cwiley1 Member Posts: 82
    If you are talking about the cardboard like stripe on the bottom of the radiator/frame it does serve a purpose. The Olds dealer in Wichita, Ks said take it off and leave it off. I did until the first warm day, the engine ran 10 to 20 degrees hotter than normal. I had the Olds dealer order me one(about $25 I think). I put it on and the engine temp. ran normal. You need it unless your climate is cold.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    I posted earlier (after vwbus came back) about the "outer" seal coming off my still-in-warranty-for-90-more-days '98. My dealer has glued the clip (and taped it to the back window with duct tape for 2-3 days) 3 times, and yep, it's come off 3x (seems to stay on for a month)...

    Should I just insist that the dealer fix this? Call the Olds Assistance Center (has anyone ever had luck in doing this)? Take it to another dealer?

    If anyone's got any advice for me, I'd sure appreciate it...

    Thanks,

    --Robert
  • zinc1zinc1 Member Posts: 133
    nne3jxc, hammen2, drew43 - Mine had a black silicone oozing out of the front and back window seals/trim when I bought it. Looks like the dealer worked on it. I trimmed off the excess gunk and everything has stayed in place for 2 years. I usually swear by the clear silicone for adhering slick surfaces together (it's used in aquariums) and would/will use it if the trim comes off.

    vwbus1979 - I haven't had time yet to get a lot of opinions on the infamous plastic deflector. I agree with cwiley1 that it's necessary for added air to the radiator, but I can't figure why it's not actually scooping the air in. GM puts these on other cars as well, but they've since learned to make them flexible so they won't get knocked off - my neighbors with the Saturn thought theirs was a 'curb finder'. Really. Just a guess: the flat surface may cause an air bulge in front of it that could separate airflow above and below the bulge without sending up too much dirt and water, maybe - could also allow hot air to escape from behind it too. And yeah, I wince every time I leave the driveway now :P
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