Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I test-drove the car afterwards. Where I used to have a vibration between 65 and 74 mph (not that I travel that fast :-) :-) :-), now it's between 65 and 69, with still a bad shake at 67.
I think it's time to talk to the dealer I purchased the Dunlops from (4 1/2 months and 7000 miles ago) to see what they can do for me. FYI, I paid $52.55 total for the balance, and they worked on it for over an hour...
--Robert
I would say you should be able to get those tires that are out of spec replaced under warranty. Or at the very least, get the tire shop to pay for the cost of getting them matched up right. It's ridiculous that vibration is such a problem - tire quality should be higher than that with the advanced manufacturing stuff we have these days.
I'm sorry to hear you are going through this. I know what it's like. Back and forth extreme hassles and all you want is your smooth ride back.
PJ's Auto Literature
PO Box 233
Reinbeck, IA 50669
Phone 319-345-6760
fax 319-345-9981
www.pjsautolit.com
Email & eBay User ID - pjsautolit@aol.com
"35,000 different items"
Musclecar97 - I think I want to hang on to my 97 for now because it has a larger and nicer print of the power curves than the 98. They are the exact same curve, but on the 98, it's reduced quite a bit smaller.
Garnes, I'd hang on to it too. I wish I'd hung on to the 2001 brochure I had. It had neat-o onionskin pages in between each glossy page. They dropped it for 2002 probably to reduce the cost. The 2001 brochure was real slick while the 2002 is fairly ordinary.
I have the autobahn package and of course have used the V rated tires.
Has anyone used less expensive H rated on Auroras with the Autobahn pakage? Any drop in performance?
Thanks
I am faced with that very same question now. Time to get rid of the Toyos (after 2 short years) and move along.
My mechanic suggests Hankook tires.
Thoughts opinions SWAGs????
How many miles did you get out of them?
Wet weather traction?
snow traction?
cornering?
Give us the 411!
Is this true, or is it up there with the rear window makes the 95's and 96's hold the road better?
See, not so gullible the second time around.
I am still waiting to see the first pictures of the Aurora 442 edition.
Smile smile smile
To be fair to the Toyos, they did meet the life expectancy of a Z rated tire. The guy at STS Tires told me to expect to have them about 2 years when I brought them. On dry pavement I was able to do some pretty extreme driving manuvers without fear.
I am not buying them again because I do not want to be replacing my tires two years from now again (although the edition of the 17" Y2K wheels might make this point moot).
Are ther any tires out there that anybody would NOT buy again for the Classic???
I would like to know which tires made your crappy list.
Thanks in advance,
Henri
You can see my initial thoughts (a few months ago) on the tires here.
These tires ride GREAT!!!! but do not hold up, read on...
RJS knows my tale of the FIRST of these tires going bad on me when my wife BACKED UP 3 FEET and bumped a 4" curb at a local supermarket. It put a hole in the sidewall of the tire big enough to put 2 fingers thru. That replacement bill was around $200 since at the time there was not offered a add-on road hazard warranty at the dealership, since then I have bought road hazard add-on policy for $75.
Yesterday at a intersection turning left, I was behind 2 cars turning left, I followed on left and a car was running the red light from the right had side of the crossing traffic. I had to stop and jump a small curb to avoid being hit broadside with my wife in the passenger seat, remember I had just come from a stop at the light and was not going fast at all maybe 5 mph if that.
I pulled over to a parking lot just beyond the intersection to check both driver's side tires. The back seemed OK but the front had a BUBBLE protruding from the side wall. The dealer said it had split from the side wall, but it is still driveable.
I will be replacing THIS tire today at an expense of $200 AGAIN. Needless to say, I will not be driving on Michelin tires as soon as these wear out. (If I get that far). I do not race or drive my new car fast or dangerous. I treat it with kid gloves. If I had been out driving fast or dangerous on either of these suitations, I would understand the tire crapping out but my wife is also a VERY safe driver.
Has anyone else with the New Aurora had similiar problems???
Thanks for listening...
Steve
I guess I'll start making sure my spare is in good condition. Sorry to hear about your second blow-out... I can imagine it would be frustrating. Why is it $200? They are only $135 from the Tire Rack. With shipping and install I'd think $170 max. Plus, doesn't your road-hazard warranty cover it? If not, then you hardly need to have it. It seems your most common tire problem isn't covered by it...
Try finding a Lexus in the bone yard and use their signal click sounder/whatever. I'm sure they have the definitive luxury sound for the turn signal. You know, that ES isn't just a fancy Camry, it's got the ultimate turn signal sound.
If you get one from an LS, well that signal sound comes through the Levinson stereo system. It's so good you might leave it on for hours as you cruise down the highway on purpose. Ever see a Lexus with the signal on while cruising? - well that's why.
Too bad GM can't get this right.
Sorry - no offence. Just goofing. Couldn't resist.
They adjusted out the tire for me. My part of the tire purchase being around $40. Then I had the front end re-aligned at a discount rate and the whole tab for today was $75.
If I had just bought the new tire by itself, it would have been around $140 plus all of the ad-ons that go with the tire purchase, so you were right on your estimate of costs.
I sent THAT bill into my "Road Hazard" insurance place for a full refund. The dealership was just going to replace the tire at NO pro-rating around $160, plus the other stuff.
I also read on one of the other "Edmunds Boards" that most all new tires on new cars are different from the Replacement tires you buy at all of the tire dealers across the nation. The factory tires are built to a cheaper specs. sheet. The post said to go to the TPC code on the tire and look there.
In answer to your questions: I run 30-31psi in tires. I check it weekly in the early morning hours before I drive it.
Thanks for your help,
Steve
FJK - I thought I had a warped rotor the way the car was thumping in the front. Either that or a bad cv joint. When I got new tires "Toyo's" and had them force balanced the other day all of the shaking, thumping and vibrations went away. Tires in balance and not internally breaking apart make a HUGE difference. My guess would be that the original tires you have are in need of replacement. Garnes posted about tires he had once on another car that the tread lasted forever.
javidogg - The security light always comes on and flashes when you turn off the car, nothing to worry about.
Hope this helps.
I once entered the car, sat down and noticed taht the security light was on even though the system was suppose to be off since I just opened the car wth the clicker.
the car would not let me start it or do anything.
I had to press the rest button a few times before the system reset and allowed me to start the car.
Hope this helps
Henri
I hope you have btter luck with them than I did.
BTW, does the Aurora (Classic) yell at you if you leave the signal on for a while? I'd try it out myself, but would feel kind of stupid. Maybe I'll wear a blue wig.
the car "bings' it does not yell.
The Aurora is no street brawler (unless you try to take it at a red light).
I have left my turn signal on a few times and the DIC alerts you to it with a chime and message: 'Turn Signal On?'.
I would suggest you ask the dealer where the reset button is for the alarm. Hopefully a servce tech at the dealer would know. Mine is underneth the dash board directly beneath the steering column.
I don't know if it will be in the same place for you. In any event , it is ai little red button.
Also, if you want to change the car's chime to a Westminster chime, consider yourself equally obsessed.
Steve, glad to hear it didn't cost you a fortune to repair that tire. That's really strange that you'd have two of them blow out. I've never had a tire blow out in my life. That's also interesting about the factory tires being cheaper. It's not surprising, though.
Shucknet, sorry to hear you parted ways with the Aurora. You never know, though. It may not be your last experience with one. Best of luck with the Sub.
FJK57702, "So I suspect that the problem is a warped rotor. They were turned once after the front calipers "hung" and burn up the front pads." Uh, yeah, I think that would do it...
Your help is appreciated.
If you want a tire that can handle impacts without blowing up, you might try looking at the weight ratings of the tires. The ones that can handle more weight will probably do better on sharp impacts like you've had problems with. However, it's possible that replacement MXV4's are more durable since you pointed out that oftentimes OEM tires are made more cheaply. I wonder if you could find out from Michelin or Olds if that's the case. I'd think Michelin would want to let you know so that you don't dismiss their MXV4's based on your OEM experience with them.
Steve, would you replace the tires with something else this soon, though? How many miles have you put on them so far? I've only put about 11,000 on mine. They barely even look worn. It seems a shame to swap them out so soon, except I can understand given your experience with yours thus far. When you had the tire replaced at the dealer, they didn't grab another OEM one off some Aurora on the lot did they? It wasn't the replacement that blew up the second time, was it?
800wattAURORA
BTW, I lost a center cap on one of my wheels. Anybody ever have to buy one from the dealer? Are they as outrageously priced as I think?
After reading your post, it doesn't sound like the "Run Flat" tires will do.
Weight ratings sound like the way to go.
Will have to check in on OEM tires and replacements. I think I still have OEM tires that were replaced the orig OEM's.
No, the tire was new on both tires.They had to get it from the Michelin Dealer the first time, (I saw the receipt) and the second one WAS at the Michelin Dealer where the first one was bought at.
No, all of the tires blown were the ones from the factory and I have replaced with the same tires. Now, I have two tires with 11k, on tire with 8K, and one new one.
I have the OEM tires on the front for now, and will be swaping with the replacement tires which are now on the back. I have the newer ones on the back because the Michelin dealer tech. said to put new ones on back to break them in properly. Something about setting up the groove tracking correctly at a non drive wheel.
Have you tried a Local Hub Cap shop for your center insert?? Ebay???
As always Bob, thanks for your help. Hope to have a service Manual by the end of the year.
Steve