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2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala

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Comments

  • batistabatista Member Posts: 159
    John I know you got lucky with your Impala. But it also may be that you do a lot of highway driving. My car is driven only in the city which means more turns and to get to work I park on a multi-level parking lot which means lots of right and left turning.
    This may dry out the ISS or put more wear on it.
  • johnclineiijohnclineii Member Posts: 2,287
    You are probably right. I did and do about 90 percent of my driving on the highway.

    And I was among the very few (from appearances here, anyway) who did not have ISS trouble. Especially on a 00.

    By the way, for those interested, the Five Hundred (mine) is now out of warranty, as of earlier this week...
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    I had the ISS lubed on my Intrigue once at around 2 1/2 years. It's been fine for 3+ years now though I figure I may have to get it done once more in my time with it.
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    Congrats on the new 2006 SS. Sharp car, I like the 2006's more and more now that I see them on the road. Saw a shiny white LTZ yesterday at the train station, beauty.

    Nice of you to let the dealer keep showing your car. I'm not sure I would be so kind.

    ;-)
  • elc32955elc32955 Member Posts: 5
    Has anyone had a chance to drive one of the new 9C1 2006 Impalas yet? I'm very curious to see how they compare up against the 3.8 in the current model (especially since I'm getting ready to order one for my work car!). Heard the jury is still out on putting the LS4 in the 9C1 for 2007... We've got one guy so far over on NewImpala.Com that has received a '06, but he got the base model 3.5 and it's really not a comparison. He posted some really nice exterior & interior pics though, was neat looking at those.... Our webhost has a SS on order so we'll get full info on it when he takes delivery in a few weeks.
  • bigjaybigjay Member Posts: 26
    It's not a problem... I'm getting the car for invoice while other dealers are charging full sticker plus mark up. I am buying a 'Burb at the same time and they are taking $11 grand off the invoice on that one too. In the meantime, they're holding both cars for me until my RE Escrow closes. After all that kindness, It's the least I can do for them!
  • bigjaybigjay Member Posts: 26
    There was a thread on here (somewhere) that talked about the zero to sixty times on the new Impala SS. I wish I could find it again to add these findings...

    On www.thecarconnection.com there is an article about the new SS and they claim it is hitting zero to 60 times in 5.7 seconds!?!?! Consider the following quote:

    "For V-8 fans (and who isn't?) best news is the delightful new Impala SS, which returns legendary small-block Chevy power to the once-legendary Impala nameplate for the first time since last decade's huge, blimp-like rear-drive Impalas. This all-aluminum 5.3-liter sweetheart pumps out a healthy 303 hp and 323 lb-ft, launches the 3712-lb SS to 60 mph in 5.7 sec. and -- partly thanks to GM's Displacement on Demand (DOD) cylinder deactivation technology - delivers a very decent 18 mpg city, 28 mpg highway EPA economy."

    Ummm... I dunno about that. I am a big fan of this new car. I've driven it and in fact, I plan to but one next week. But 0 to 60 in 5.7 seconds? The car scoots along pretty well, but it just didn't feel "that" fast! Felt more like upper 6 seconds.

    Sub six second 0 to 60 times are the natural habitat of some truly fast production cars, ie: MB E500, BMW 545, even the Hemi powered Chrysler 300C. The SS certainly gets up and goes, but it just didn't "feel" like those other cars.

    I wonder where they got those numbers?
  • jcooleyjcooley Member Posts: 46
    The Edmunds TMV for an 2006 Impala in my area is pretty much half way between the invoice and MSRP. If some dealers are charging a MSRP premium and some charge invoice it looks like the TMV may just be an average of the final price depending if you are good haggler or not. Good luck on you new vehicles.
  • wayneskiwayneski Member Posts: 6
    Your ISS story is similar to mine. My 01 Impala needed the lube after two years. Now it needs it every 18 months. It's expensive and annoying. I was going to the dealership for the service, and am now looking for a less expensive alternative. In my opinion, the lube is a band-aid fix to a defect and I am annoyed to have to pay Chevy every 18 months to correct it. I have never had another car that ever needed regular steering column lubrication. Any other lower cost alternatives to the lubing procedure?
  • batistabatista Member Posts: 159
    I just had my ISS lubed and it cost me $125 CDN and the service advisor told me that I will need my steering rack replaced in the next year or two. I don't know if I will keep this car if I have to pay $1000+ to fix it. I can handle the $125 every 1-2 years but not a steering rack every 5 years. Apparently the steering rack will start to leak fluid or it already has a very minor leak. He wasn't very clear in his explanation. Maybe you can get away with lubing it a couple of times before the rack needs to be replaced.
    GM was replacing steering racks before they had this lube fix. I don't know if the service advisor is just trying to get some business for the dealership.
    After the lubing the car handles and feels much better. I don't feel the effects of bumps on the road and the car is much quieter.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I had the ISS lubed on my 2000 Impala early on, and as I remember the fix involved drilling a hole into the assembly, threading the hole, and putting what I assumed to be a standard grease fitting on so they could shoot lube into the ISS. I haven't actually looked around for this grease fitting (don't know if it'd be under the dash or under the hood for that matter), and I don't know what type of grease it would use...but if the fitting is easy to get to and it doesn't require some special type of lubricant (or connection), you could probably go to your neighborhood auto parts shop and buy a grease gun and the lube for a few bucks. It might be worth asking the service advisor to show you exactly what they did to fix the ISS and see if they can point out the grease fitting and ask specifically about what they used to lube it, then check into doing it yourself. Just a thought; there could be other reasons NOT to do this yourself - but if the warranty is gone it might be worth trying.
  • road46road46 Member Posts: 18
    First and only real problem so far with my 04 Impala was rotor pulsation. Took it into dealer under warranty and they replaced both rear rotors and one rear drivers side hub at no charge. The hub was not mating to the rotor correctly and this contributed to the pulsation. This car now stops as smooth as silk. Rotors were de laminating, I imagine some of that was from our severe winters we have in upstate new york state, also the car was built in Oct 03 and I purchased new in jan 2004. This could have contributed to some rust on rotors. No other problems to report, all in all this is a great car. I am getting 30-33 mpg on highway trips w 3.4 engine and I feel alot safer going down the road knowing this car has a 5 star frontal crash rating. Saw a 2006 Impala 2 weeks ago on I-95 in Maine and liked the new exterior styling.
  • rhumerhume Member Posts: 1
    The License plate bulb on my 2002 Impala needs
    to be replaced and I would like to do it myself.
    My owner's manual does not give directions for
    doing this, it simply tells me to go to a
    dealership.

    Isn't this something that I should be able to do
    myself? I've seached on-line and have been
    unable to find directions. Can anyone tell me
    how to do it or direct me to somewhere I can find
    instructions?
  • bh628bh628 Member Posts: 100
    Hi, I just did a very lengthy review of auto transports. It's at bh628, "Car Transport Companies" #42, 5 Sep 2005 12:17 pm

    Maybe it will help someone on this list.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I replaced the license plate bulbs on my 2000 Impala about a year ago; I don't remember too many specifics, but basically if you crawl under the car you might have to unscrew a screw or two, but it isn't very difficult at all. As I recall I first pulled out the bad bulb and then went and bought the new bulb, which came in a package of two...the process was simple enough that I just went ahead and replaced both bulbs, figuring if I just replaced the one the other would have burned out within a few weeks, and I'd only have to do it again. If it were daylight at the moment I'd go crawl under mine and look, but I think when you get under there and look, it should be pretty obvious how to go about removing the old bulb and putting in the new one.
  • mst52mst52 Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03 Impala with 38k. A clicking noise can be heard when making turns at 10-20 mph, or when turning the steering wheel slightly when stationary. The dealer has looked at this 2-3 times while under warranty, and could not find a problem....saying that all Impala's make a slight clicking sound.
    Steering is fine, no wander, no steering wheel problems. Just the clicking noise that is starting to occur more often. Did not occur when car was new. Did not have this problem with my 01 Impala.
    Any help?
    mst52
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    If the sound is more of a high pitched, "ticking" or "creaking" type sound (sort of like the sounds an engine makes when it's cooling down, but tied to steering inputs), it is probably related to the aluminium engine cradle. There were complaints about this early on in the 2000 Impalas, and it seems like a few folks either had cracks in welds, or had shims or other repairs done to rectify things. As I recall mine made those noises early on, but at the time I was parking in a deck which amplified the sounds. I never had any weld or other problems, and am approaching 85k miles with no cradle-related issues.

    I wonder though...I haven't followed much on the new 2006 Impala (since I won't be in the market for another 2-3 years), but does this new model also use an aluminum engine cradle? Might be telling to see if Chevy kept with that strategy or not.
  • fathertyriciusfathertyricius Member Posts: 116
    I just received a letter from the recall dept of GM informing me that there are problems with the catalytic converters in the Impala's with both engines 3.4 and 3.8 2000 to 2005. The letter mentions that the car could loose power due to the catalytic converter failing, and that Chevy will fix the problem if anyone experiences this issue for 10 yrs or 120,000 miles whichever comes first free from the original date of purchase.
    Well this exact problem happened to me a month ago where I lost all power trying to accelerate from a stop. Chevy replaced the converter under my extended warranty, and now my 01 LS has full power. There were no issues leading up to this problem. It just happened unexpectantly by complete surprise. A bit scary when you are flooring the accelerator and the car goes no where.
    Letting everyone know so all are aware if this happens to you.
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    I have a 2001 LS also and got the same letter just last week (I live in Ontario Canada)...I have been having the same symtoms as you. I plan on taking the car in in the next week or so.
  • toby07toby07 Member Posts: 6
    we have a 2003 impala with 26000 on it we have gotten the same noise went to the dealer he said that there is a bullinton on it the grease fitting between the 2 shafts on the steering rods they loose the grease so they fixed it they had the same problems with all gm cars and truck
  • fallguyfallguy Member Posts: 1
    Cant find a bug deflector for the 2005 Impala.

    Like the Lund X-Terminator (mechanical mount, stands off hood with no bumpers) but it only covers 2000-2003 models.

    Did the Hood or Hood underside change in 2004-2005 models?

    Would the Lund model fit a 2005 and they have just not updated their website?

    Help, thanks.
  • mlanceomlanceo Member Posts: 1
    I am on my third window switch for my 2000 Impala. I wrote Chevy to see if there is a recall on this part because I hear of it much too often.
  • sweetpolly1sweetpolly1 Member Posts: 2
    Hello, wow! I haven't been back to this forum in a couple of years! I still have my 2000 Impala LS and have been taking it back and forth to the dealer for hesitation problems. My most recent problem was that the car would lose power and cut off in the middle of driving! I took it back to the dealer and they replaced an ignition switch (same switch they replaced in 04). That didn't solve the cut off problem. I left the car at the dealer and the car eventually cut off while the service tech was driving it. I was told that the crank sensor needed to be replaced, which it was done under my extended warranty---thank God for those!. Anyway, the car is running fine now. What I want to know is is the catalytic converters something different? I don't know if they replaced that, but I plan to inquire about it. I haven't received any recall letters on it (yet!).
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I haven't gotten a recall notice on my 2000 Impala either...does anyone know if this is an across the board recall, or if it only involved certain VIN numbers?
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    I have a 2001 Impala LS. I received a letter from GM Canada in September 2005. Just some highlights of the letter.

    As the owner of a 2001-2002 Chevrolet Impala, Monte Carlo Grand Prix etc...models equipped with the 3.4 or 3.8 L engine may have a condition where the catalytic converted is replaced due to the front endcone insulation from the converter breaking away and blocking the front of the first catalyst brick and preventing the free flow of exhaust gas through the converter. The converter is replaced due to complaints of lack of power or illumnation of the Malfunction Indicator Lamp. (MIL)

    This is not a recall.....If you have this problem take your car to your General Motors dealership if you believe ythat your vehicle has thie condition as described above.

    GM has extended the warranty on these cars above for the catalytic converter to 10 years or 150,000 miles (190,000 kilometres) to have the converter replaced free of charge.

    reference number 0010055
  • ejs11ejs11 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 2001 impala and it has the clicking noise when I turn the wheel. It does it when I am breaking and turning around corners, and also when stationary. No clicking while on the road at higher speeds.
    I have not ever owned an impala, but test drove three other 2000 impalas when looking to purchase my car, 2 of the 3 had the noise. I assumed this was a normal thing for impalas.
    At the dealership I bought mine at, the dealer told me he owned a Chevy Silverado 2002 and he had the same issues. He described it as a rattle/clicking, mine is more of a popping/clicking no rattle....so I do not know if he was experiencing the same thing?!?
    Let me know if you find anything out from the service department. Its good to know this is a consistent problem with impalas. Hopefully its an easy fix. Anyone know the ballpark cost for this type of repair??

    I also have the air bag light come flicker on occasionally when I drive, it just flashes on for a quick second. Is this a bad sensor or loose wiring?

    Thanks!
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    The 2000 to 2002 Impalas had two problems that created the clicking noise. One was the aluminum engine cradle that developed cracks and when turning slowly you can hear this clicking noise. Chevy installed shims that were to rectify this problem and cars built from 2002 onward had more welds on the cradle to prevent this from happening.. 2nd reason is the intermediate steering shaft that loses lubrication and after a year or two needs lubricating. It causes a clicking noise when turning slowly or going up an approach They have tried several fixes on this problem and made a new design.

    If you purchased your Impala from a GM dealer (recently) you should have a 30 or 60 day warranty on this car. Same if you purchased from a reputable used car dealer.

    Click into the search discussion box on this page and type in engine cradle or intermediate steering shaft and copy all the complaints from these and they might include GM repair #s. Take these copies to the dealership where you bought the car and demand that these issues be repaired. If you don't the problems will always exist and at some point you will pay!
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    Thanks for the info; looks like the 2000 models aren't involved in the catalytic converter issue (one of the few problems the first-year models avoided!).
  • patd1961patd1961 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 LS w/14k miles. I complained to dealer about steering. First he said somthing about lubrication then when I talked to him about picking it up he said he replaced the steering shaft free of charge w/warranty. He said it is a frequent complaint. BTW the steering is much better, very tight. I will see if they put an improved replacement part in
  • tkccetkcce Member Posts: 5
    I have 59,000 miles on my 2002 Impala with 200 hp V6. This weekend I noticed loss of power. The car would bog down so bad climbing hills on the highway I would have to pull off into the slow vehicle lanes and let everyone pass me by. The car is in the shop today - have not heard anything regarding diagnosis, buy sounds like the catalytic converter.
  • revjim64revjim64 Member Posts: 78
    I have the same problem in my 02 Impala.
    There is a factory defect in the steering shaft. Apparently the u-joint in the steering input shaft has a lot of play or defective bearings. GM is aware of it, but won't recall it! The mechanic at the dealership told me that it is not a safety issue, it is just a nuisance sound.
    for 250 dollars the dealer can replace the shaft and the noise will go away. I can live with the noise for now.
  • shawnwileshawnwile Member Posts: 1
    I recently bought a 2001 Impala. The tire monitor light on the dash came on the other day because one of my tires had lost pressure. No problem, right? Well, now I can't reset it. I've tried the following: With the key in the "acc" position, hold the disp button on the radio until "settings" is displayed. Then, using the seek buttons, select tire monitor and reset it. The only problem is that Tire Mon is not one of the options in my menu. Is it possible that the dealer could have at one point disabled this with his scanner? I've also had suggeastions to try turning the headlights to parking-lights, off, parking lights, off, parking lights within 5 seconds and to simply press a reset switch in the interior fuse panel - but neither of those worked. I can't even find a switch inside my fuse panel...I assume this is because the car is equipped with the RDS. Someone please help - the light is driving me nuts!!
  • b4zb4z Member Posts: 3,372
    There is also a kit that will allow you to grease the ISS.
    A lot cheaper than replacing it.
  • mean1mean1 Member Posts: 15
    My 2004 Impala has only 14,000 miles on it and has been well-maintained. It started leaking oil and the dealer replaced the oil pan gasket. This did not work...so they said that the first time they used a cork gasket and now the second time they would use the GM recommended liquid/rubbery gasket. But still the oil leaks. Now on the 3rd try they say it's not the oil pan but the rear main seal needs replaced. Isn't this a major repair for a relatively new engine. Will this ever be right or is this car a lemon? I don't like the idea of having engine repairs on a car I've owned for 18 months. Is there any hope for this car?
  • pluto5pluto5 Member Posts: 618
    Just keep adding oil until the dealer gets it right. Sometimes they try a cheap fix before they address the real problem, apparently the main seal. Better yet try another dealer. This should not affect your engine if you keep up the oil level.
  • frankf3frankf3 Member Posts: 96
    I just went back for the clicking problem in the ISS with my 2001 Impala LS. This was the 4th time going back with it. The first 3 times they just packed it with grease. As a matter of fact the first time they greased it, it came back worse than it went in. This time we told them that the grease jobs on the shaft wasn't cutting it. They replaced the ISS with one with a different part number.

    :)
  • path4path4 Member Posts: 24
    Hi,

    I am going to buy a used Impala at price 10K-12K, and I need your suggestion. From J.D.power ratings, it looks like the 2003 ones are the best, and the 2004 ones got pathetic ratings. Aren't they the same and built at the same place? Could any Impala owners show me some light on these ratings? I am really confused. I have driven a 3.4L Impala rented from Enterprise and I felt it was powerful enough. Which engine 3.4 or 3.8 is more reliabe?

    Thanks!

    Path4.
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    Basically the cars are all the same, however each year GM bids on different parts sources to build and provide certain parts for the cars. I know my sons rotors on his 2003 LS were a slightly different design then my 2001 LS. I do know that the 2000 and 2001 cars had more issues then the later models. Motor trend also indicates that the 2003 cars were suppose to be better. I don't think you can go wrong with either one 2003 or 04. I would go with the 3800 engine. Its a very reliable, fuel efficient engine that has had many upgrades over the years. Make sure you take one for a good run and listen for clicking noises when turning slowly or going up a driveway approach. Even today they are still having issues with the ISS. I would also go with a lower mileage car that might have some documentation or service records available. Last, before purchase check the VIN# with CARFAX for any previous accidents the car might have had. Good luck!......just my opinions
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    FYI - if you're considering buying a used car and think it might have been involved in any of the hurricane flooding in the Gulf Coast region, you can go to www.carfax.com/flood and run the VIN to see if the car has any reports of car damage for no charge. You'll still have to pay to get all the other report info, but at least if you want a little peace of mind for free that's available.
  • dexboxdexbox Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Impala and two months ago I received a voluntary recall on the cat. converter because of the issue you are talking about. I made an appointment with my local dealer and it was replaced it at no charge. The car definately has more power now.
  • jim01jim01 Member Posts: 1
    my 01 ls had a sqeeling noise coming from the steering wheel when i turned it. the dealer replased the rack and pinion 1 year ago at 25000 miles.the noise was gone.now at 43000 miles the noise is back.are all the rack and pinions bad, or is this a yearly repair?
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I've been reading posts here since back in '99, and I don't remember anyone complaining about a rack and pinion before.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I'm approaching 90k miles on my 2000 Impala, and it's probably I replaced my spark plugs.

    Any advice as to what brand/type to use, and thoughts about replacing anything else while I'm at it?

    I assume I'd need to put platinum plugs in, wondering about the Bosch Platinum +2 and +4 plugs, if they're really worth the difference or not. And can I get by with the same wires and such, or should those be replaced/upgraded (and if so, any suggestions on what to upgrade with)?
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    I would definetly replace the spark plugs but anything else, or the additional costs of upgrading the plugs etc, depends how long you plan on keeping your car.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I'll probably keep it at least one more year, maybe two. I'm approaching the point where I'm ready financially and emotionally for a new car, but I'm hoping to drive this one as long as it doesn't give me any trouble for a couple of years.

    I'm thinking about a new Colorado/Canyon crew cab, but I've read there's a new version coming out in 2008 (as a 2009 model); so if I can stretch this one for two more years I can save my money, and then either get a good deal on the outgoing model, or if the update is major enough, get into the new design.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    Recently I've noticed a pronounced whine coming from the engine of my 3.8l 2000 Impala. This primarily happens if I make a spirited corner or quick acceleration, approaching the point of the traction control kicking in. Immediately afterwards I'll get a loud whine, which varies with the speed of the engine. Yesterday the noise started, and I happened to roll down my window as I was going past a wall or fence, and realized the noise is VERY loud outside the car...if I were on the sidewalk this noise would definitely get my attention! I tried slipping the transmission into neutral and revving the engine, and the noise seems connected to the engine RPM versus the transmission/speed of the car. I'd assumed the noise was coming from the transmission, but with the pitch changing with engine RPM only, I'm somewhat stumped.

    Anyone have any idea what this might be? :confuse:
  • batistabatista Member Posts: 159
    My 01 Impala 3.8L makes a whine sound when accelerating fairly hard when the defrost fan is on. When shutting the fan off it doesn't make a whine sound.
  • malibu99malibu99 Member Posts: 305
    Has anyone experienced a weird problem where the gas gage seems to work backwards? When the car is OFF the gage reads half, when its started it resets itself and goes below the "E" mark..its as if its working but someone knocked the pin out ot line. I have a 2004 SS. Anyone know what causes this? is it something I can fix?
  • crimpalacrimpala Member Posts: 1
    I realize it has been a long time since you've posted this blog, but I was wondering if the problem with the hazard switch was fixed using P/N 1030898 or 12450013? Also, if it was the flasher as opposed to the hazard switch, where the heck is the flasher? I've torn up my whole dash looking for it. Thanks for your time.
  • lortolorto Member Posts: 25
    I used 1030898 and it's been working fine since. The flasher and hazard switch are a combined unit. So, you have to replace the hazard switch to replace the flasher.
    Good luck,
    Bruce
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