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There was a recall involving the 3.8l and warping of the upper intake manifold which covered some 2000-2001 models, and might have reached into the 2002 models as well (I honestly can't remember). You might dig around a little on this board and find some more info on that, but I'm pretty sure the 2003 models were in the clear, so for that reason alone you might focus on the latter model.
FWIW if you've got an eBay account you can set up automated searches within a range of your ZIP code that will send you daily updates if anyone posts a certain car within your area; if I were looking for something specific I'd definitely set one of those so you'd be on top of anything on there that's within a distance you could actually drive to look at before bidding.
I'd like to know who has the highest miles on their Impala. I read a review that said these cars are supposed to be able to last to 400,000. I highly doubt any Impala will see that, but I'm curious.
I pulled the boot that covers the ISS down, it is located under the dash, just above the brake pedal. It is about 4" in diameter. I noticed that it looks like a mini universal joint and it is hollow in the middle. I thought, the shaft must slide up and down in the middle and that is why it is binding.
I wasn't sure I could get grease in there so I used som PB Blaster, penetrating oil. I squirted it down the hole in the middle and guess what, no more noise.
Not sure how long it will last, even if it is months, it takes 5 minutes and pennies to fix.
The reason I chose PB blaster Penetrating Catalyst,
PB Blaster is a powerful, concentrated penetrant frees rusted or frozen parts by releasing the surface tension that causes parts to stick. Lubricates to protect against future rust and corrosion.
Only time will tell. I attached a picture, the arrow points toward the hole in the middle.
One question - where's the firewall in relation to this photo?
I did find that there's a panel under the dash which just clips on at the front, and it has the under-dash light attached to it. If you remove the clips and lower the panel, you can twist out the bulb housing and use it as a flashlight to take a look in the area. I checked the shaft from the "universal joint" up to the steering wheel, and definitely found nothing there. I'll do a little digging around and if I find a grease fitting I'll let you know, but if nothing else I'll shoot a little WD-40 in and see what happens.
One difference I noticed between your photo and what I saw on mine; whereas your UV joint has these nicely machine pressed divots holding the thing together, mine had those as well as a number of irregular looking dents in it too...as if part of the "fix" to mine might have involved taking a chisel and hammering around on the UV joint in an effort to take out any slack in the piece.
Anyone else having this problem, and if so, any suggestions to fix it (other than dubbing my CDs to cassette!!)?
Both are salesman cars, 75-80K miles, regular oil changes and maintenance, comparably equipped.
Interestingly enough, the residual value for my company ( basically what I'll have to pay)is almost $5k higher for the Camry.
I've been in and driven both, no way the Camry is even close to worth that much more.( IMHO, the Imp drives and rides better) These prices are based somewhat on on perception. My feeling is that the Camry is priced too high and the Impala too low.
Therefore, I am thinking of helping my recent graduate daughter buy the Impala. Objective is to get her in a reasonably economical,safe, low maintenance car that will last her for a few years -(70-80K miles?).
Good Idea? Inputs appreciated.
Granted as a 2000 Impala owner I'm biased, but I'd also lean towards the Impala, due not only to cost, but also room, safety, ride, etc.
As you've discovered, Camry's have better resale value, but by the same token they tend to cost more (or be discounted less) initially, so my take on that is it is basically a wash. I'm sure if you were to price both these cars down the road with 150k miles on them the Camry would be worth more, but then again you'll have paid more for it.
I'd buy the Impala and take some of the money you're saving and sock it away somewhere so that if you have some problem with the car you've got money to cover it, and if not when it's time to trade cars you'll have some money available for a down payment.
First the engine cradles issues, intake manifold, intermediate steering shaft and now for the second time transmission problems.
I thought Ford had tranny problems--GM is even worse.
Shuddering, slipping and flares and after I spent $700 for the PCS to be replaced and now 6 months later same problems.
Great reliability in the Impala and with only 34K miles.
That's right only 34K miles and the first trans problems occured with 30K miles.
They are going to have big problems with this powertrain warranty they now have.
Here is a list of my problems after 36000 miles:
1) Water leak from passenger side firewall (happened twice in 2.5 years)
2) Intermediate steering shaft
3) Replaced Power steering rack
4) Air condition (replaced condenser and evaporator)
5) Power steering fluid leak (almost caught fire under the hood)
6) One of the engine valve spring broken (big $$$$ to fix and I gave up after that!!).
In message 13199 I was inquiring about our turn signal working intermittenly. I just wanted to report back that it was indeed the relay within the hazard button (or something like that, I may have the terms wrong) like you guys suggested.
I just wanted to thank you guys for saving us the $400 or so more it would have cost us to replace the whole turn signal works as the mechanic had recommended. Not to mention the major frustration it would have been to have paid that much to fix the WRONG part!! Thanks so much!
Angela
I found this forum and bought a can of PB Blaster in my local Pep Boys (you also can get this online at: www.pbblaster.com). I was skeptical, but this afternoon I pulled off the kick panel under the steering wheel and peeled down the rubber boot around the steering shaft. Its not easy to pull this down, but I managed to push it down with one hand and spray with the other. I managed to spray the stuff so that some of it did go down the hole in the center of the shaft. Some sprayed all over the place and ran down inside the boot, I hope that's OK (It would be a lot easier if the PB Blaster had one of those little red tubes that is usually supplied with a can of WD40).
I took it for drive this afternoon, drove to a couple of stores, and lo and behold the ISS Clunk seems to be gone!! The steering still seems a bit loose and occasionally makes a click sound, but the clunk while turning at low speed and the "shifting" feeling while braking is gone!! So thanks to all who posted the info on this forum!
Oddly enough, a few weeks ago my next-door neighbor called over the fence to me from his back deck; he's got a 2004 or 2005 Impala, and wanted to know how old mine was, how many miles, etc. I asked if he'd had any problems, and he said he had this noise/bumping coming from the steering...I replied "you notice it especially when you're turning right?", to which he replied "Yeah"...and then I said "and when you're applying the brake you feel it even more distinctly, in the brake pedal too?" and he was speechless! I explained what the problem was, but at the time I hadn't tried the PBBlaster yet. Now that I've had a third confirmation of this curing (at least for the most part) the ISS problem, I may try to catch him this weekend and see if he'll let me try some on his and see if he notices a difference.
I just started my own website and hopefully posting some pics of the 2K LS soon. Just took the original tires off almost 7 years old and only 27,000 miles. I put the uniroyal touring tires on, rides much better.
I shopped around and purchased a new ignition cylinder for $140 and ignition switch for $110 and had the car towed to a local garage. The garage called a local locksmith and had my new ignition cylinder re-keyed for $50 and charged me $150 for the labor to remove and install the ignition cylinder and switch. My total repair cost was $450 plus tax versus $750 or more.
"I have found a replacement for the bulb on the factory fog lights.
Sylvania 893 crosses over to a 885 the difference is:
The 893 is a 35 watt bulb and pulls approx 2.92 amps @12volts
The 885 is a 55 watt bulb and pulls approx 4.59 amps @ 12 volts
You need to take this into consideration when you change these bulbs ie wiring and fixtures they will put out more light and also create more heat. I have replaced the lights in my car and so far (week now) have not had any problems."
Not suggesting you go with the brighter bulb or anything, and it doesn't help with HOW to replace the bulb, but at least it...er..."sheds some light" on the type of bulb to look for.
I guess I'll go with the Sylvania 893. Still wondering how to change it though. Does anyone have the repair manual?
I replaced mine years ago with the higher watt. bright white bulbs with the blue tint, no problems.
I haven't been on this list in quite awhile, since buying my '04 Impala at the end of '04. Lots of life changes for me, and so far 10,000 miles on it. Really nice car, especially since I moved to a colder climate! Thanks for everyone's advice in helping me pick out my car. Hi, nosirrahg, I moved near your neck of the woods!
Strange chime happening. I drove from Asheville, NC to near Bristol TN (yep, NASCAR country) on 2 separate occasions. About an hour ride. On two separate trips, the car began to chime at the end of the ride, as I got off the same off ramp. I didn't see any warning lights. The first time was 2 weeks ago, and no problems or chimes after that. The 2nd time was yesterday.
I did a search on chimes on these messages, but there always seems to be a warning light. There was a lot of light onto the dash, so maybe the reflection kept me from seeing a warning??? This particular ramp is a slight downhill. :confuse:
I'd hate to go into the dealer, but definitely will if it's a safety issue. Anything I could try first? Thanks!
This is an easy one. It happens to me in my trailblazer once and awhile. If your directional stays on too long you will get that warning. It seems to happen on this long ramp I get off on occasion that is pretty straight and it doesn't automatically reset itself. It almost sounds like the low fuel chime. It startled me but went off but as soon as I turned off my directional, it went away.
I bet the turn signal is your problem; when I first read your post though I thought about a "problem" I've had several times with my 2000 Impala...I'll leave home and get to the top of the hill at the end of our street and I'll get a chime and my "trunk open" light will come on. Apparently I hit the button in my pocket and the trunk releases, but it doesn't spring open so I don't notice until I come to a stop and the trunk lid springs up a little and triggers the chime/warning.
On most 2000 models when you push the trunk release, the trunk barely opens...maybe a quarter-inch or so (if that). Lots of people complained about it, because they'd have their hands full and hit the button, and couldn't open the trunk. So on newer models they adjusted the tension so the trunk lid springs open; but on the early models they don't.
good luck
I tried to remove it, and only ended up making it worse. It's like the shine is "shrink wrapped" onto the woodgrain, and I succeded in pulling part of it back.
Should I just pull it all off? Or use some clear nailpolish to try to patch it up? Or what? I know it's cosmetic, but I have a lot of pride in my car. Thanks sos much.
It's good to know that the panels are so unforgiving. I will keep that in mind when I'm cleaning mine. I have the metallic finish in my SS but I'm betting the same clear plastic coating is there. Thanks for the info.
So it's a good thing that the panel is cheap to replace. Might wait till I have a little bit more cash, though. Don't know the labor cost...
Thanks!
I must admit, I've been spoiled when it comes to washing my car. In Southern Calif (where I moved from), there are car washes everywhere! For about $10, you get a bunch of guys and machines that will do your car inside and out. Rugs, windows, everything!
Now I moved to a place where the closest thing to a car wash is a short drive-thru, while you sit in the car. Or a hose that you can use on a time limit. Gosh, I miss those car wash guys, they made the outside and inside look fabulous! And I am due for a wax.
I went to the drive thru, and it looks like there's a bunch of grease in different places. On the door, and bumper. Anything I can use, like a spray-on degreaser, to remove this? I don't want to make a big deal of it or make it labor intensive.
Thanks for listening, and your help.