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2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala

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Comments

  • unctuousunctuous Member Posts: 9
    I'll have to check that out. Thanks for the sugguestion.
  • hutch7hutch7 Member Posts: 88
    I need to purchase an "airport car" that will be used to park at the airport on business trips and to run around town in. I love my Tundra but can't justify size/MPG unless I need to do truck stuff. On paper the Impala looks like the perfect fit...good MPG,safe and sporty. Any thoughts? Any thing I sould be on the lookout for? My research shows the 02-03's are the most reliable used cars. Thanks for feedback!
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    As a 2000 owner that's been hanging out here since early that year, I'd say you're probably right about the 2002-2003 models. If fuel economy is your primary concern, a 3.4l base model would be your best bet. But as I recall the only way to get ABS and traction control is to get the 3.8l version (which is what I've got). EPA figures on the 3.8 were 20-city/30-highway, which are very realistic based on my experience the past 6 years.

    There was a recall involving the 3.8l and warping of the upper intake manifold which covered some 2000-2001 models, and might have reached into the 2002 models as well (I honestly can't remember). You might dig around a little on this board and find some more info on that, but I'm pretty sure the 2003 models were in the clear, so for that reason alone you might focus on the latter model.

    FWIW if you've got an eBay account you can set up automated searches within a range of your ZIP code that will send you daily updates if anyone posts a certain car within your area; if I were looking for something specific I'd definitely set one of those so you'd be on top of anything on there that's within a distance you could actually drive to look at before bidding.
  • impalakingimpalaking Member Posts: 1
    I just purchased a high mileage 2000 Chevy Impala LS. It has 156K but I have to tell you it runs like it is brand new. All the miles on the car are highway miles and I am so happy with the car.

    I'd like to know who has the highest miles on their Impala. I read a review that said these cars are supposed to be able to last to 400,000. I highly doubt any Impala will see that, but I'm curious.
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    We purchased our LS new and it has 27,000 original miles and still looks new. When I bring it in for inspection, they think it is alot newer. I just replaced the original air filter with a K&N, should have done that years ago. the only issue I have is the ISS needs greasing. I might take it apart myself, I have the factory repair manuals, the size of 2 large phonebooks.
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    I have been fixing cars for 25 years as a hobby and still do my own stuff when I can and for others. I decided to give this ISS issue a look over.
    I pulled the boot that covers the ISS down, it is located under the dash, just above the brake pedal. It is about 4" in diameter. I noticed that it looks like a mini universal joint and it is hollow in the middle. I thought, the shaft must slide up and down in the middle and that is why it is binding.
    I wasn't sure I could get grease in there so I used som PB Blaster, penetrating oil. I squirted it down the hole in the middle and guess what, no more noise.

    Not sure how long it will last, even if it is months, it takes 5 minutes and pennies to fix.

    The reason I chose PB blaster Penetrating Catalyst,
    PB Blaster is a powerful, concentrated penetrant frees rusted or frozen parts by releasing the surface tension that causes parts to stick. Lubricates to protect against future rust and corrosion.

    Only time will tell. I attached a picture, the arrow points toward the hole in the middle.

    image
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I had my ISS dealt with by my dealer several years ago, and just today I thought I might have felt the problem coming back. I think the fix involved drilling a hole and installing a grease fitting, but I've often wondered where this fitting was. I'll try to remember to look under my dash when I get a chance and see if I can find the same piece you've pictured, AND see if I can indeed locate a grease fitting. If so, I'll try shooting a little grease into it myself and see if I notice any difference or not.

    One question - where's the firewall in relation to this photo?
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    the firewall is behind the ISS, look under the dash, you cant miss the black rubber boot, just pull it down
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I just craweled around and looked under mine, and unless the grease fitting is further down the shaft than I can push back the rubber boot, I can't see any evidence of a fitting added to my ISS. I did find the hole you're talking about though, and may spray a little WD-40 in there and see if that helps. I stuck my finger in a little bit, and got a little bit of yellowish grease on it, but I don't think I'm ready to just fill the thing with grease at this point.

    I did find that there's a panel under the dash which just clips on at the front, and it has the under-dash light attached to it. If you remove the clips and lower the panel, you can twist out the bulb housing and use it as a flashlight to take a look in the area. I checked the shaft from the "universal joint" up to the steering wheel, and definitely found nothing there. I'll do a little digging around and if I find a grease fitting I'll let you know, but if nothing else I'll shoot a little WD-40 in and see what happens.
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    I know the PB blaster works, got it at Advance Auto. I'll bet that 3 in 1 oil would do the same, basicly stops the binding. I thought I had a brake problem also but the lube solved everything, it rides as smooth as new now, no noises. Only time will tell how long it will last. I am willing to spray a little every few months if I have too.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I couldn't find my WD-40; tried something else I had, but didn't have the "straw" that came with it to pinpoint where I was spraying the stuff, so can't say it did me any good. Did you basically spray your PB blaster down the hollow tube (and if so, approx. how long/much did you spray), and/or did you spray the entire UV joint assembly as well?

    One difference I noticed between your photo and what I saw on mine; whereas your UV joint has these nicely machine pressed divots holding the thing together, mine had those as well as a number of irregular looking dents in it too...as if part of the "fix" to mine might have involved taking a chisel and hammering around on the UV joint in an effort to take out any slack in the piece.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I've got a sporatic problem with my 2000 Impala radio; it's the version with the single CD player + cassette. Every now and then (especially on hot days), I'll have trouble ejecting a CD from the player. I hit the "eject" button and the CD raises up and is visible in the opening, but for whatever reason it won't project forward enough to grab and remove. Typically it will pull the CD back in and try again a couple of times, then stop (with the CD inside). The only way I've been able to get the CDs out in this case is to take something like a pocket knife and slip under the CD when it's trying to eject and try to help slide it out, but of course when I do I end up scratching my CDs.

    Anyone else having this problem, and if so, any suggestions to fix it (other than dubbing my CDs to cassette!!)?
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    I just sprayed for a few seconds. It actually started dripping from the botton on to the floor. Still steers like new
  • gerry100gerry100 Member Posts: 100
    I've got a chance to purchase an '04 Impala LS or an "04 Camry from my company.

    Both are salesman cars, 75-80K miles, regular oil changes and maintenance, comparably equipped.

    Interestingly enough, the residual value for my company ( basically what I'll have to pay)is almost $5k higher for the Camry.

    I've been in and driven both, no way the Camry is even close to worth that much more.( IMHO, the Imp drives and rides better) These prices are based somewhat on on perception. My feeling is that the Camry is priced too high and the Impala too low.

    Therefore, I am thinking of helping my recent graduate daughter buy the Impala. Objective is to get her in a reasonably economical,safe, low maintenance car that will last her for a few years -(70-80K miles?).

    Good Idea? Inputs appreciated.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    The Impala is an LS, which means the larger 3.8l engine, plus ABS, traction control, etc. Can you provide any details on the Camry (4-cylinder versus V6, trim level, etc.)?

    Granted as a 2000 Impala owner I'm biased, but I'd also lean towards the Impala, due not only to cost, but also room, safety, ride, etc.

    As you've discovered, Camry's have better resale value, but by the same token they tend to cost more (or be discounted less) initially, so my take on that is it is basically a wash. I'm sure if you were to price both these cars down the road with 150k miles on them the Camry would be worth more, but then again you'll have paid more for it.

    I'd buy the Impala and take some of the money you're saving and sock it away somewhere so that if you have some problem with the car you've got money to cover it, and if not when it's time to trade cars you'll have some money available for a down payment.
  • batistabatista Member Posts: 159
    I have had nothing but problems with my 01 Impala.
    First the engine cradles issues, intake manifold, intermediate steering shaft and now for the second time transmission problems.
    I thought Ford had tranny problems--GM is even worse.
    Shuddering, slipping and flares and after I spent $700 for the PCS to be replaced and now 6 months later same problems.
    Great reliability in the Impala and with only 34K miles.
    That's right only 34K miles and the first trans problems occured with 30K miles.
    They are going to have big problems with this powertrain warranty they now have.
  • yeeyee Member Posts: 7
    I agree with you 100%. I owned a 2000 Impala LS. I had to get rid of it less than 5 years at ~56000 miles. It costed me over $4000 for repairs after the warranty.

    Here is a list of my problems after 36000 miles:

    1) Water leak from passenger side firewall (happened twice in 2.5 years)
    2) Intermediate steering shaft
    3) Replaced Power steering rack
    4) Air condition (replaced condenser and evaporator)
    5) Power steering fluid leak (almost caught fire under the hood)
    6) One of the engine valve spring broken (big $$$$ to fix and I gave up after that!!).
  • mrwaynemrwayne Member Posts: 20
    I think it's hit or miss with these Impala's. Some have many, and/or re occurring problems, and some have relatively few problems. Myself and a fellow supervisor at work both own 2001 Impala's. Mine is a 3.8, his is a 3.4. Mine has 51,000 miles, and his has 102,000 miles. I drive relatively short distances, he drives long distances, plus drives out of town several hundred miles several times a year. Neither of us has had powertrain problems. We both had the blower resistor problem. I had the BCM problem. My power steering hose seems to be "damp", but doesn't seem to drip. No other problems other than that we both have a minor exhaust leak somewhere. (My single exhaust now sounds like a dual, and his single sounds even louder). His 2003 Malibu has had the ignition switch replaced, and presently suffers from an intake manifold leak. (119,00 miles) I had a 1991 Cavalier that I had for 10 years and 143,000 miles. Only problems: Exhaust leak after 129,000 miles, and blower motor replacement after 139,000 miles. (No crappy electronic computer annoyances. Both rear wheelhouses rusted through, though, so I got rid of it, but GM's older technology was a lot more reliable and long lasting than anything they build today. The whole GM line suffers from computer/electronic crap-outs.
  • unctuousunctuous Member Posts: 9
    On my 2004 Impala LS the Tire sensor light comes on after a long drive even when all tires have approriate pressure. If I reset it thorugh the radio it goes away. The manual says that if one tire goes 8 psi diff than the other the light will come on. Should I reset when tires are cold?
  • road46road46 Member Posts: 18
    Hello just checking in w an update on my 04 Impala 3.4. I now have about 25k miles on her and car is still running excellent. Nicest car I have ever owned. Do have a loose rear pass side fender panel, appears to be a loose fastener or something. This is right over the the back of the rear wheel area and it appears the car left the factory or dealer this way. Nothing major that won't be under the warranty. Also wheel covers that appear to be painted silver, flaking off. Probally will have dealer check my headlights for adjustment, since not so good at night even with the Silver Star bulb upgrade. I am thinking about a 2007 with the better headlights and redesigned interior. Not sure if the seats are as good as the power Sport Seats I have now though. Does anyone have the post # that lists the upgrades/downgrades for this model? Any comments would be appreciated. Thanks
  • road46road46 Member Posts: 18
    thanks, this covers some of my posted message.
  • road46road46 Member Posts: 18
    thanks
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    Also the 2007 Impalas have a 6 year 100,000 mile powertrain warranty, as compared to your current 3 year 36,000 powertrain warranty.
  • blackngoldfanblackngoldfan Member Posts: 4
    Hi all,

    In message 13199 I was inquiring about our turn signal working intermittenly. I just wanted to report back that it was indeed the relay within the hazard button (or something like that, I may have the terms wrong) like you guys suggested.

    I just wanted to thank you guys for saving us the $400 or so more it would have cost us to replace the whole turn signal works as the mechanic had recommended. Not to mention the major frustration it would have been to have paid that much to fix the WRONG part!! Thanks so much!

    Angela
  • kdconodkdconod Member Posts: 53
    I've had the "ISS Clunk" for quiet some time, but I didn't know what it was until I found this forum. It was minor at first and I ignored it. But its gotten worse and worse the last few months. When I recently had my 2000 Impala in for brake work, I had them check it out. They couldn't find anything wrong, but I knew something was up! It felt like something was really loose in the steering.

    I found this forum and bought a can of PB Blaster in my local Pep Boys (you also can get this online at: www.pbblaster.com). I was skeptical, but this afternoon I pulled off the kick panel under the steering wheel and peeled down the rubber boot around the steering shaft. Its not easy to pull this down, but I managed to push it down with one hand and spray with the other. I managed to spray the stuff so that some of it did go down the hole in the center of the shaft. Some sprayed all over the place and ran down inside the boot, I hope that's OK (It would be a lot easier if the PB Blaster had one of those little red tubes that is usually supplied with a can of WD40).

    I took it for drive this afternoon, drove to a couple of stores, and lo and behold the ISS Clunk seems to be gone!! The steering still seems a bit loose and occasionally makes a click sound, but the clunk while turning at low speed and the "shifting" feeling while braking is gone!! So thanks to all who posted the info on this forum!
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    I discovered the ISS fix and mine has been good for months now. Glad to help
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I know we sound like a bad infomercial, but I also tried the PBBlaster after you recommended it, and thus far it solved my ISS problem too (probably 6-8 weeks ago). It isn't a perfect fix, as I still occasionally feel a little bit of a clunk here and there, but maybe 3% as often as I used to before. I keep wanting to give it another blast to see if it will eliminate the problem all together, but I really want to give that first application as much time as possible to see how long-term the fix is.

    Oddly enough, a few weeks ago my next-door neighbor called over the fence to me from his back deck; he's got a 2004 or 2005 Impala, and wanted to know how old mine was, how many miles, etc. I asked if he'd had any problems, and he said he had this noise/bumping coming from the steering...I replied "you notice it especially when you're turning right?", to which he replied "Yeah"...and then I said "and when you're applying the brake you feel it even more distinctly, in the brake pedal too?" and he was speechless! I explained what the problem was, but at the time I hadn't tried the PBBlaster yet. Now that I've had a third confirmation of this curing (at least for the most part) the ISS problem, I may try to catch him this weekend and see if he'll let me try some on his and see if he notices a difference.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    THANKS to the edmunds.com folks for resurrecting the "2005 and earlier" thread on the Impala board...I know it's easier to find things in the other, more detailed threads; but from a community/sharing ideas standpoint I find this thread much easier to keep up with and react to.
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    A friend at work has a 2K LS like ours, his rear defroster doesn't work but the side mirrors do. I checked my factory repair amnual and they say to check for poor connections at the glass. I told him to try that first. Any ideas?

    I just started my own website and hopefully posting some pics of the 2K LS soon. Just took the original tires off almost 7 years old and only 27,000 miles. I put the uniroyal touring tires on, rides much better.
  • charts2charts2 Member Posts: 618
    Recently I noticed my rear window defroster wasn't working. I tried to check the fuse block but it has a relay and a breaker but not able to make access. I checked the rear connecting wires and one was off. I don't know how to attach this as it looks like it was lightly soldered. Any help appreciated?
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    Did you mean the wire was off or the connection on the glass is off? That is most likely caused by a carwash cleaning the back window. If the connector is broken from the window, they sell a kit at your local auto parts store to glue it back on. If it is just unplugged, plug it back in
  • unctuousunctuous Member Posts: 9
    I have a 2003 Impala LS and there is a squeaking sound coming from under the Glove Compartment. Any idea what it may be?
  • unctuousunctuous Member Posts: 9
    One of my fog lights in my 2003 Impala is out. Does anyone have any experience with replacing the bulb? Do you know what kind of bulb I should get? I don't have a repair manual.
  • rbraserbrase Member Posts: 9
    I went to start my 2004 Impala (100K miles) and my key would not turn the ignition cylinder/switch from the lock position to start. I had my car towed to my local dealer and they said the ignition switch ($160), ignition cylinder ($200) would need to be replaced. In addition, they would have to re-key the ignition cylinder and re-set the pass lock 2 system. The total cost with labor would be approx $750.
    I shopped around and purchased a new ignition cylinder for $140 and ignition switch for $110 and had the car towed to a local garage. The garage called a local locksmith and had my new ignition cylinder re-keyed for $50 and charged me $150 for the labor to remove and install the ignition cylinder and switch. My total repair cost was $450 plus tax versus $750 or more.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I found this info at www.impalahq.com that might be helpful:

    "I have found a replacement for the bulb on the factory fog lights.

    Sylvania 893 crosses over to a 885 the difference is:

    The 893 is a 35 watt bulb and pulls approx 2.92 amps @12volts
    The 885 is a 55 watt bulb and pulls approx 4.59 amps @ 12 volts

    You need to take this into consideration when you change these bulbs ie wiring and fixtures they will put out more light and also create more heat. I have replaced the lights in my car and so far (week now) have not had any problems."

    Not suggesting you go with the brighter bulb or anything, and it doesn't help with HOW to replace the bulb, but at least it...er..."sheds some light" on the type of bulb to look for. :)
  • unctuousunctuous Member Posts: 9
    Thanks. I actually stumbled upon that site myself - lots of good info.

    I guess I'll go with the Sylvania 893. Still wondering how to change it though. Does anyone have the repair manual?
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    just remove the torx screw in the front innner corner and remove the lense. Now you access the bulb from the back by twisting it out.

    I replaced mine years ago with the higher watt. bright white bulbs with the blue tint, no problems.
  • bh628bh628 Member Posts: 100
    Hi Everyone!

    I haven't been on this list in quite awhile, since buying my '04 Impala at the end of '04. Lots of life changes for me, and so far 10,000 miles on it. Really nice car, especially since I moved to a colder climate! Thanks for everyone's advice in helping me pick out my car. Hi, nosirrahg, I moved near your neck of the woods!

    Strange chime happening. I drove from Asheville, NC to near Bristol TN (yep, NASCAR country) on 2 separate occasions. About an hour ride. On two separate trips, the car began to chime at the end of the ride, as I got off the same off ramp. I didn't see any warning lights. The first time was 2 weeks ago, and no problems or chimes after that. The 2nd time was yesterday.

    I did a search on chimes on these messages, but there always seems to be a warning light. There was a lot of light onto the dash, so maybe the reflection kept me from seeing a warning??? This particular ramp is a slight downhill. :confuse:

    I'd hate to go into the dealer, but definitely will if it's a safety issue. Anything I could try first? Thanks!
  • 2k_impala_ls2k_impala_ls Member Posts: 311
    I am a big earnhardt fan and would love to visit your region someday.

    This is an easy one. It happens to me in my trailblazer once and awhile. If your directional stays on too long you will get that warning. It seems to happen on this long ramp I get off on occasion that is pretty straight and it doesn't automatically reset itself. It almost sounds like the low fuel chime. It startled me but went off but as soon as I turned off my directional, it went away.
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    I'm not sure where you're moving from, but I suspect if you're in my neck of the woods and encountering what you'd consider a cold climate you're probably about three hours northwest of me (where most of the groth in this state tends to be, and the temps run about 10-degrees colder!).

    I bet the turn signal is your problem; when I first read your post though I thought about a "problem" I've had several times with my 2000 Impala...I'll leave home and get to the top of the hill at the end of our street and I'll get a chime and my "trunk open" light will come on. Apparently I hit the button in my pocket and the trunk releases, but it doesn't spring open so I don't notice until I come to a stop and the trunk lid springs up a little and triggers the chime/warning.

    On most 2000 models when you push the trunk release, the trunk barely opens...maybe a quarter-inch or so (if that). Lots of people complained about it, because they'd have their hands full and hit the button, and couldn't open the trunk. So on newer models they adjusted the tension so the trunk lid springs open; but on the early models they don't.
  • artyvwartyvw Member Posts: 1
    pretty easy replacement requires removing 1 torx type screw, assembly slides out any good auto parts store carries the correct bulb
    good luck
  • bh628bh628 Member Posts: 100
    Great! I will try it. Yes, it really did scare us. It does happen on a long off ramp. Thanks to both of you!
  • bh628bh628 Member Posts: 100
    Maybe you can help me with this one? I hope it's easy also. Yesterday I noticed what I thought was a spot on the "woodgrain" piece on my door panel.

    I tried to remove it, and only ended up making it worse. It's like the shine is "shrink wrapped" onto the woodgrain, and I succeded in pulling part of it back.

    Should I just pull it all off? Or use some clear nailpolish to try to patch it up? Or what? I know it's cosmetic, but I have a lot of pride in my car. Thanks sos much.
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    Nail polish probably would only look like you got nail polish on the panel. I would bring it to the dealership and mention how the spot had formed before you tried to clean it. It may take some insistence on your part but I think they should replace the panel. It's probably a pretty cheap fix and you did nothing to cause the original problem.

    It's good to know that the panels are so unforgiving. I will keep that in mind when I'm cleaning mine. I have the metallic finish in my SS but I'm betting the same clear plastic coating is there. Thanks for the info. :)
  • bh628bh628 Member Posts: 100
    well, it's past warranty. I don't drive a lot of mileage, so I didn't buy an extended warranty.

    So it's a good thing that the panel is cheap to replace. Might wait till I have a little bit more cash, though. Don't know the labor cost...

    Thanks!
  • quietproquietpro Member Posts: 702
    In my experience, there are plenty of "shade tree" mechanics that can replace parts for you for much more reasonable prices. The trick may be finding a replacement part for a good price but check with some auto-salvage places. You may get lucky and find the part for a good price and it may even match better considering it would be aged like your car's current interior. Good luck! I know how you feel about keeping your car looking nice. :(
  • nosirrahgnosirrahg Member Posts: 872
    And if you can find a "you-pull-it" salvage yard, you can go out and experiment on removing/installing the piece, to see if it's something you can easily do yourself. Better to make a mistake trying to take something off a salvage car than your daily driver, and you may find it's something you can easily do on your own. If your problem is on the driver's door, you might experiment on the passenger door at the salvage yard until you figure out the process, and then take off the part you actually need.
  • road46road46 Member Posts: 18
    Hello, had the same exact problem. Try taking everything out of the glove box and see if it goes away. I had alot of weight in there and it was making a sqeaking noise too. After I removed all it went away completely. Hope this helps.
  • bh628bh628 Member Posts: 100
    thanks for the suggestions. I'm still looking for a mechanic, may have found one. It's kinda weird being in NASCAR country and most of the people I know seem to get their car serviced at the dealer. Oh, the other group does it themselves. So finding a mechanic is taking awhile. The "shine" really looks like cheap shrink wrap. I guess if it all comes off, it probably won't be too bad.
  • bh628bh628 Member Posts: 100
    New topic.

    I must admit, I've been spoiled when it comes to washing my car. In Southern Calif (where I moved from), there are car washes everywhere! For about $10, you get a bunch of guys and machines that will do your car inside and out. Rugs, windows, everything!

    Now I moved to a place where the closest thing to a car wash is a short drive-thru, while you sit in the car. Or a hose that you can use on a time limit. Gosh, I miss those car wash guys, they made the outside and inside look fabulous! And I am due for a wax.

    I went to the drive thru, and it looks like there's a bunch of grease in different places. On the door, and bumper. Anything I can use, like a spray-on degreaser, to remove this? I don't want to make a big deal of it or make it labor intensive.

    Thanks for listening, and your help.
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