2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala

alabelle · March 2001

I have not yet formally introduced myself, but I've been lurking around the conversations of all of you Impala owners for about two months now.

I had trouble with my 2000, silver, cloth seat, program car Impala just as I had read in so many of the posts. I learned how to put the noises and things I was experiencing into words and most importantly with TSB's. Thanks to Night Owl, Teo, Platour, and so many others I took my case to arbitration with the BBB. My hearing was March 21, 2000. Guess what? I won!!! The Chevrolet manufacturer has to repurchase my car. I proved my case with the web-site, the knowledge that I learned, the TSB's, the pictures, and the confidence I got from listening to you all chat.

I don't know how to say thank you enough.

Teo, how long did it take for your to get your check to buy back or did you trade in?

Have a great day all, and thanks! ALABELLE

pat · March 2001

Yes, I know what you mean. The best that jump box can do is get you somewhere close.

It all depends on how many messages have been deleted in any given discussion. Have you noticed that the posts renumber themselves when a post is removed? For instance in your post you make reference to message #2300, but (right now, anyway) your own message is actually #2300. It looks like at least one post prior to yours was removed after you posted.

If you put your cursor on the link that is your message number (2300) without clicking on it, and look at the bottom of your browser, you'll see the actual link and it will end with a "/2348" - that "2348" is the actual number of posts that have been made in this discussion through your post.

That "actual" number is the one the Go To feature is working with. So the fact that you are about 50 posts off actually makes sense - 48 posts have been removed in this discussion through your last post.

Why does the Go To use the actual number instead of the relative number? I have no idea. :-)

Hope this helps a little.

Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards

platour · March 2001

It is unfortunate that you had to take things that far....but justice has been done. As you have noted, a little knowledge can be a formidable weapon. The Forum certainly is a great resource for those who have minor and major problems. I would hope, and I truly believe, that most Impalas are on the road each day serving their owners well. But from time-to-time a lemon (of whatever manufacturer) does get into the hands of a consumer. With modern quality and assurance (Q&A) manufacturing standards, this has always been a mystery to me. But each car cannot be tested 100% as it comes off the line, I suppose. The recent problem of sweetpolly with a leaking intake manifold gasket (little heating capacity) really through me. I thought such mechanical glitches were a thing of the past. In any case, glad you won the case and the Forum could be of assistance!

platour · March 2001

I will work on your suggestion. Meanwhile post number 2245 has been deleted. I should have paid more attention to the copyright notice at the bottom. Apologies!

pat · March 2001

;-)

stnel · March 2001

People have been writing in with car problems with cars built before 10/00. How can you find out when a car has been built?

Been going to lots of dealerships. Talked to Chevy salesman and the price he started out with for Impala wasn't as expensive as I was expecting. The rebates will have expired by May though.

platour · March 2001

I guess the easy answer is to look at the build sticker on the inner surface of the driver's door. Mine says "Date-10/00." As to the day, you can ask GM at its web site (with the VIN).

stnel · March 2001

Thanks for the info! It would have never occurred to be to look on the inside of the door. I'll have to check that when I look at cars the next time.

teo · March 2001

Glad to hear that the forum was an instrumental piece in the success regarding your case during BBB proceedings. Congratulations on a successful resolution.

I am curious (As I am sure most of the other posters are) to know exactly what problems you experienced with your Impala. What model was it? Base or LS? Mileage? Build date?

Will you buy another replacement Impala or go for a different vehicle this time?

Fortunately, I didn't have the need to escalate my complaints to the BBB arbitration board....everything was handled strictly between my excellent dealer and the GM District Manager representative.

Having witnessed the improvements made to the 2001 model year Impalas (Built after 10/00) I agreed to give the car a second chance and do what they call a "Trade-Buyback" for a new 2001 Impala LS. The whole thing has taken longer than expected for problems outside of anyone's realm. Now, the paperwork has taken longer as GM up in Detroit take their sweet time to do things quickly. I should be getting my new replacement Impala LS within the next few weeks.

Don't be surprised that the process of getting the Buyback completed and your refund check takes longer than usual. Sometimes they say '7 to 10 business days' but it can easily take a month or even more. Just be on top of them and try to get a status on the whole process. However, once GM has agreed to repurchase or trade-buyback a vehicle they will not back out from their initial offer. Just be patient, but firm and attentive at all times.

Good luck and hope that you will return to the Impala family

stnel · March 2001

I discovered this web page called GM Buy Power and it gives VIN for cars on the lots of the different dealerships. So I was able to look up the car on that web page to get the VIN of the car I looked at today. Emailed GM so hope to hear from them in a few days. Thanks again!

mediumfry · March 2001

Thanks for the reply, Pat. I understand why the "go to" is 48 off.

On the 2300 reference, I was actually referring to my own post on purpose. I had landed on 2200 earlier and noted that the even number might be lucky. Just being a goofball really. Then I landed on 2300 as well. Coincidence.

I guess if someone deletes a post between 2200 and 2300 I'll really look like a dork.

Thanks again.

pat · March 2001

meanwhile, perhaps all the signs are right to run out and buy a lottery ticket?

:-)

ehaase · April 2001

Does the 3.4L in the Impala have the same piston problems that the 3.1L used in the Malibu and Buick Century has?

bearmer · April 2001

I've seen complaints in discussion groups of piston slap upon cold startup. This is where the piston skirt audibly hits the cylinder wall at the bottom of its stroke. The dealers call it normal. I don't know if these engines suffer damage from it. Is this the problem you mean?

There's an Edmunds forum called "Common General Motors 2.8, 3.1, 3.4 V6's engine problems". You might ask there.

For alabelle: Can you tell us what's causing your engine noise and which engine is it?

frankf3 · April 2001

My mother had a '90's series Chevy Lumina. I don't remember what size the engine was, whether 3.4 or 3.8L, but she did get a recall notice concerning piston slap. It really used to rattle and clatter on startup - especially on a sub-zero New England morning. As I recall, they gave her a certain time frame to get the car in for servicing OR not have it covered by GM. She held onto the car till only a month or two before the end date on the notice. When she finally brought it in, the dealer parked it outside overnight to start on it the following morning. The night they had it out at the dealer was also a very cold night - below zero. When the mechanic went to start the car in the morning to do the job, the engine threw a rod ! They ended up putting in a new motor on GM's nickel. I also had a couple of friends that had their motors replaced on their Luminas but as far as I know, their engines didn't blow before they were replaced.

Frank

platour · April 2001

Thanks for that tip on the 60 degree GM engine Forum. I read the 36 or so messages there but there was nothing on piston slap. There was a number of messages re intake manifold gasket failure, particularly on high-mileage vehicles. This stems from the fact that the 3.1 and 3.4L engines have aluminum cylinder heads on iron blocks, unlike the 3.8L The lesson to take away in my view is that the coolant must be changed every two years. If not it develops an acidic condition which chews up (corrodes) the aluminum heads. And this is not a problem restricted to GM. Any manufacturer using the Al/Fe combo faces it. For example, Ford Tempo and Taurus . I have seen thermstat housings go this way on Chev V8s and it is a sight (not pretty) to see! I change every two years as it is not a big job. But as a consumer, I do question the marketing approach by GM: DexCool is good for 100,000 miles but by the way, if you do not change it every two years, your warranty is voided. There is something wrong with this picture.

The same thing with synthetic oil. See the reply below from GM to my question on that subject. No problem using it (it being good for 12,000 miles or more) but if you do not stick to the service cycle of 3,000 miles (severe use and that includes city driving and Canadian winters), then the warranty is void. I was going to say that GM should have a clearer policy on synthetic but in reality I guess the policy IS clear!

>Thank you for your recent inquiry regarding the use of synthetic engine oil
> in your 2001 Chevrolet Impala.
>
> Synthetic and conventional mineral oil-based oils have some similarities.
> Most of the additives used in synthetic oil is identical to those used in
> conventional oils.
>
> To determine whether an oil meets the quality requirements indicated in
> your Owner's Manual, engine dynamometer tests are run. These tests
> evaluate the ability of the oil to prevent wear, deposits, rust and
> corrosion, as well as solidification of the oil itself. They have been
> developed over many years to assure the recommended oils will perform
> satisfactorily in vehicle engines under a variety of conditions.
>
> Engine oil change intervals are selected based on extensive road testing
> and field service experience. Engine part failures caused by using any oil
> beyond the recommended change intervals stated in your Owner's Manual will
> not be covered under the General Motors of Canada Limited New Vehicle
> Limited Warranty.
>
> In addition, synthetic oil appears to cost considerably more than
> conventional oil. If the recommended oil change intervals are followed, it
> will cost substantially more to use synthetic oil.
>
> We appreciate the opportunity to clarify our position.
>

platour · April 2001

Winter almost coming to an end, it is time to think of those nasty white calcium stains on the rugs. Other than the spray-on cleaners from the local auto store, does anyone have a favourite cleaner for this purpose? Or a home-brew mix? What do the auto detailer shops use? They seem to do a good job (at a price, of course).

iusecad · April 2001

A guy I work with washes his floor mats out at one of those coin-op car washes with the high pressure hoses. He says it works well, but I've never tried it myself. I have rubber floor mats.

Might be easier than scrubbing...

platour · April 2001

There was a mini-debate some time back re the merits of rustproofing which I had done when I bought my 2001. I enjoyed the back-and-forth on that topic as there were some very interesting points-of-view, pro and con. I noted at the time that GM advertised galvanized body panels but they never said where and to what extent. See below. It appears that all body panels except the roof are galvanized. And that is a fine feature. So those who said rustproofing is not needed would seem to have a valid point. But I do not regret my decision<g>. Did not hurt: all drain holes in the doors are free of interference. Also, you have to be careful with corrosion. There was an article in the local newspaper last Friday re a Saturn owner who was upset because his stainless steel exhaust system was rusting. Stainless steel does not rust, of course!! Well, there is stainless steel and there is stainless steel. The quality depends on the nickel and chromium content and anyone who expects their SS system to last five years may be in for a rude surprise. I hope the quality of galvanizing on Impala body panels is up to snuff. Any metallurgists out there? Would appreciate comments on galvanized and stainless steel in automobiles.

http://www.chevrolet.com/csv/fleet/impala/exterior.htm

night_owl1 · April 2001

Hey all. I just got back from a trip to Paris and have been trying to catch up with all the messages. I'm working on an update right now, so bear with me. I got a lot of junk to upload, mostly new links I found.

The Impala How To Page

http://home.hawaii.rr.com/impala/

night_owl1 · April 2001

Sorry to hear about your health problems, but...

YOU HAVE NOT PICKED UP YOUR IMPALA YET?!?!?

*fainting*

night_owl1 · April 2001

Ok, I am totally jealous. Did you get the AT1 (GM only) or the AT12 (GM & Ford)? I've been lusting after the AutoTap for a while now, but I don't have a laptop so I would have to shell out for that as well. Have you tried the runing log feature yet? How much hard drive space does it eat per minute of logging?

mcdill · April 2001

I am back from my trip , drove about 800 miles round trip , car did great , I drove the whole time, We were loaded with about 700 pounds of people and luggage ,so it was sittin down in the rear , I was real pleased with the gas mileage , it got 30 mpg the whole time , I was going between 65 to 75 mph , The only complaint I really have is those noisy Goodyear Eagles ! thanks------------mattmcdill

bearmer · April 2001

Well the 2.8L had iron heads and an aluminum manifold and it leaked, too. I've never read a good reason why this family of engines is like this. It can be a tricky situation for a car owner and here's why.

First, the real danger is an undetected internal leak which contaminates the oil with antifreeze. Ethylene glycol is a petroleum derivative which is miscible with oil but destroys its lubricating properties. The resulting friction damage occurs quickly. The mixture in the crankcase starts to emulsify and the first evidence is usually a light colored, pasty emulsion collecting under the filler cap. It looks like dirty mayonnaise.

If the car is under warranty and there is no bearing noise, the dealer will just say it needs a gasket. I don't know how you really find out what it's done to the engine. If the engine is toast, the dealer will call it consequential damage which isn't covered. The engine wasn't defective, it was damaged as a consequence of another event, the gasket failure. So all he owes you is a gasket. If a short circuit in a harness burns the car down to a cinder, he owes you a harness. Cute, huh? I think some or all extended warranties exclude gaskets. I don't know what they say about consequential damage.

From reading the discussion groups, I see that dealers are telling some customers that the gasket failed because of faulty maintenance. Use only the orange Dexcool antifreeze and abide by the recommended drain interval.

I think that Dexcool is silicate free so don't put any green stuff in it. Silicate is like fine sand that gives it an abrasive property. It scours deposits out of the system, but erodes aluminum. There used to be a GM chemist on the Vettenet mailing list who told me that when they had to get rid of the silicates they lost some ground in combating solder blooming. This is a condition where corrosion forms at the ends of the radiator tubes where they are joined to the tanks. It eventually blocks the tubes. You can see it when you look into the filler. Of the 4 or 5 radiators I've replaced over the years all were blocked this way except the one I stuck a screwdriver through.

I've got a comment on piston slap, too, but my fingers are tired.

platour · April 2001

I look forward to your next post when the fingers get relaxed . I have read ad naseum the reasons for Al/Fe motor failures. And the prospect that DexCool would solve that problem for GM engines. It may; I do not know, quite frankly. But I will use it if need be in my new Impala. After all, it is good for 100,000 miles . But I will change after 24 months. On the old green ethylene glycol, I have used it for many years in my 1979 Corvette with no problems. My rad is original from November 1978. I guess as long as it does not get into the crankcase, all is well. And I would say that for any coolant.....for obvious reasons. This stuff has worked for decades but I see its days are limited. I suspect that GM has tried to solve its Fe/Al problems with this coolant.

I will check my extended warranty from 1SourceAutoWarranty re your comments on gaskets and engine damage. In other words, if a gasket fails, and an engine fails, is one covered? It is a good point, and indeed a critical one for those who may pay out like I have for seven years. That is serious money: $999.00US. Perhaps they can be persuaded to make a statement here. They are endorsed by Edmund's....And I bought on that endorsement amongst competitors. Hello Pat!! Would like to hear from you. Thanks.

platour · April 2001

Please be careful about what you conclude from posts in this Forum. Some GM consumers do run into problems but that can be told may times over for many other brands of automobiles. I apologize if I have been confusing in my posts but many Impalas will go for many, many miles without problems. I have been GM since 1963 with an Impala 283V8/Powerglide (just like the current GM Impala ads) and they have been good and dependable cars. Not terribly exciting, and they remain so. Just a good, honest and day-to-day dependable ride. And that is what I wanted when I bought the 2001. Just *&^% comfortable. smooth and very relaxing to drive. GM has been under the analysts' guns for a number of years for producing mediocre cars but they have trouble giving the new Impala grief. Search the net and try to find "real" criticism." I do not hesitate to suggest that you buy one. I do not put many miles on mine but it has been an absolute joy so far. Today at a shopping center, a fellow in a Jeep Grand Cherakee (sp?) told me he was thoroughly displeased with his SUV and really liked the Impala. OK, he and the Wife sat in and tried the baby seat attachments. They loved the buckets in my base with 60/40 backs. I thing I see a trade-in coming....All that to say, you will really like the Impala.

mediumfry · April 2001

Thanks for your comments, Night_owl1.

I got the AT12 for now because the AT123 isn't out yet. I waited a couple months for the AT123 because I didn't want to have to turn the AT12 back in to get the AT123. However, with their full-credit buy-back and the continued delays in releasing the AT3 and AT123 I finally ordered it. I love the tool. I only have my Impala to work with, but friends, relatives, and probably many future friends have cars I can tap for them if I have the AT123. Also, I rarely buy new, so my next few cars are likely to be OBD II compliant as well. A long term investment I say, and a hobby too.

It's hard to say how much space it uses per minute on the hard drive because it depends on how many parameters you're logging. I loaded up the 26 most desirable features onto one screen and logged it for approximately 25-30 minutes. The log file was 800k. Not too bad. I've got a 12 gig drive with 10 gig free so, let me calculate. Let's say 1 meg per half hour. That's 48 meg per day (let's say 50 meg/day). That's one gig every 20 days or 200 days for 10 gig. Yikes. Since it's a DOS based application gone windows, it doesn't have the "hog'ness" of a typical windows application. That's nice.

I'm very fortunate to have a company laptop that I use to log the values. I then download the data to my home computer and I'm all set.

The tool is not a GM Tech-2 (it doesn't write values to the PCM and it doesn't do body and chassis values), but it also doesn't cost $3000-$6000 like a Tech 2 does. And it DOES clear DTC's (though I haven't had to do that yet). I'm just tickled to have it.

I'd love to scan and log your car's values for you, but a 8000 mile interface cable would be a little pricey. I will, however, send you the files from mine if you're interested. '01 LS, 3.8 liter, etc. I haven't completed a good set yet, but would like to eventually have all values logged through a complete warm-up from cold through steady state, both crusing and start/stop driving.

I'll be in touch.

stnel · April 2001

My father knows a lot more about cars than I do and once he finishes his taxes he can explain a lot of the technical info to me. He would be interested in the discussions on the gaskets as well. He explained what a manifold gasket was so it's helped me to follow the dialogue between you and bearmer somewhat.

morphius909 · April 2001

Hello All;

Has anyone shampooed their Impala Engine yet? There is a lot of dust and dirt/rock sediment on mine (Nasty Highway Winter Driving).

Is it safe to wash it? Does anything need to be protected?

As for RUST PROOFING:

If you follow the proper routine, I.E.-Wash, wax, touch up scratches, chips, rust proofing is generally a waste of money. Picking up any consumer magazine or auto book will confirm this, it is simply a "dealer profit" gimmick. The same goes for Paint-Seal protection, undercoating, etc. Paint sealant shine only lasts for a few months, and after a while is pretty much useless. I am amazed how many people get sucked into the "CARE" package the dealer sells, I was lucky, the dealer simply offered it and then when we said no, never brought it up again... if you really want to protect your car, remember the hinges, the weather stripping, the works... that's my criteria for a neat car.. anyone can clean the outside, but it's the details.. open the trunk up and clean the trunk hinges, stripping, etc etc!

Ciao
Paul

yurakm · April 2001

Thanks for interesting info about the orange engine coolant (Dexcool).

I have a 98 Malibu, build 07/97, almost 40k on odometer. Recently asked both my mechanic at local Firestone, and service adviser at dealership about the coolant. Both said it is really good for 5 years, do not need to replace before.

On the other hand, both said the transmission service is needed every 30k miles or so. Even while the car manual asks for 50k miles service even for severe driving conditions.

crosley4 · April 2001

these v-6 motors also suffered from corrosion inside the intake manifold betweeen the air intake passage and the water passage (a common wall).

The water would be sucked onto the engine and none would leak onto the ground.

I do not know if this is true of the later engines , 3.1 & 3.4 cid. I have not looked or talked to ppl about this. I would think it is still possible unless GM redesigned the intake. Mayb after 10 years they did......((-;

jeffreyw1 · April 2001

How much did the AT12 automotive diagnostic tool cost? I would like to get more information about this tool because it would be neat to find out the parameters of the Impala LS while it is running. I, too, like working on vehicles and consider it a hobby. I take pride and joy in performing any maintenance that I am capable of to my autos. I would be interested in getting those files from you if it would not be too much trouble. Thanks and have a great day!

bdime · April 2001

Just a reminder folks to read the owners manual when you have a
question or complaint. I checked mine to see if there was anything I
could do about the add-on to factory installed alarm interface and saw the stuff about the settings from the factory. I thought the car was locking and arming itself without my hitting the button and it is designed to do that.That's for some of us that forget to lock the car. My deal is I have to park in a hospital lot and I'm not supposed to arm the alarm (quiet zone)-can't do that unless I turn off the auto lock feature which I really don't want to do. I guess I'll wait and see if the wonderful security forces come after me. Here's to hoping they are busy with the coffee and the serious miscrients!

neals1820 · April 2001

Took my 2000 LS in for the warm start up hesitation problem again and asked about the bumps I feel in the steering wheel when turning to the right at slow speeds or on bumpy roads. The service tech says no problems reported on the Impalas and suggested tire rotation and balancing. I am not getting a clucky sound in the steering colume, just a bumpy feeling in the steering wheel. Car doesn't seems as tight as it used to be (14,400 miles). Any thoughts.

bdime · April 2001

While I don't have any recommendations for a specific product our local paper (Chicago Sun-Times) just had a nice little column on cleaning those carpets. They talked about any all purpose carpet cleaner, using a wet dry vac, pre wetting (not ink stains!)& allowing the chemical to saturate but don't rub it in (causes the circle marks).They also suggested waiting for a warm enough day to be able to keep the windows and doors open to allow through drying (important to keep out that mildew smell in the midwest).

teo · April 2001

Without a doubt, the 'Looseness' that you are experiencing in your steering wheel is the direct result of the premature failure of the Intermediate Steering Shaft. I am not surprised by your dealer's technician comments as most of them are still kept in the dark regarding this unfortunate and very common problem among 2000 model year Impalas. Since there is no official TSB addressing the problem and most owners can't really identify any radical difference in the steering feel and performance, some dealers conclude that the problem is not existent and fault other items that have no relationship whatsoever with the steering shaft issue.

having traveled this road a few months ago, again my suggestion is to call the 1-800 Chevy customer service number, describe the nature of the steering problem you are having, get a Case or file number and request for them to contact your dealer's Service Manager DIRECTLY that way you can meet with him at the dealer by appointment to take a test drive a have him acknowlodge the problem and take charge of your case. Don't try to deal with the Service Advisor or technicians directly...they are low level employees that will deny and dodge your requests for troubleshooting to no end. Go to the top (Service Manager) for quick and efficient resolution.

Also, if you have the time, go back to some of my posts (Look for posts in the month of January and February) that describe the nature of the Intermediate Steering Shaft problem in clear and concise detail. Also, Nightowl's website has problem entries which also describe the problem including the shaft's replacement part numbers. Print these out and show them to the Service Manager. He can't deny you service when the problem has been documented Ad Naseum.

get the Intermediate Steering Shaft replaced as soon as possible. It can potentially become a safety problem if you don't do so in time. Also, re-balancing, re-aligning or rotating the tires WILL NOT TAKE THE PROBLEM AWAY!.

If you have any questions, feel free to ask me directly.

Good Luck,

TEO

tomaso7 · April 2001

Before I take my 2001 LS into the dealer has anyone had complaints from back seat driver side passengers, [except for your mother-in-law]? The sound is a noise that ocurrs only over 110 KPH or 66 MPH. I tried moving the OnStar aerial to different positions but that was inconclusive. I opened the back seat to the trunk and the noise was not coming from the trunk. The only other thing that's left, I think, is the rear quarter panel that might be loose. The only people who can hear this noise is the person sitting in the back seat behind the driver and to somewhat a lesser extend the other rear passenger on the other side.

sweetpolly · April 2001

I picked up my car from the dealer last Thursday and Saturday, the car did the hesitation again upon start-up. I'm going to take it back to the dealer and have them look at this again, however, I'll wait until the wheel liners come. I really hate this hesitation/stalling problem. It's nerve wracking and anoying. I talked to the Chevy 800 rep today and told her that I'd seen the dealer two times re this problem, she suggested I take it back (will probably need to take it back a 2 more times) and if that didn't resolve the issue, they'd put me into another car (you think they could locate another Med. Regal Blue? not likely--definitely not 2001). I assume I could order a 2001 special painted in the Medium Regal Blue, do you think so? Have any of you, who had replacements, posed this question?

shamino · April 2001

I've had complaints about this banging or in my case thumping/creaking noises from the rear passenger side occupants. It occurs at almost any speed. I also hear the sounds from upfront. It is annoying as heck!! But I haven't had time to bring it in to the dealer to get it fixed. From closer inspection, I can see the trim on the rear passenger side rear pillar has come off. This is what is causing the thump sound every time I go over a uneven bump in the road. As for the creaking sound, I'm pretty sure it has something to do with the sunroof trim or sunroof itself being loose. THe weird thing is I only hear the creaking noises over speed bumps or rough patches of the road where one side of the car is flexed.
From further inspection, the winter driving has put even more scrapes/paint chips in my poor baby!

I hope this weekend is good, so i can do the touch up.

teo · April 2001

Your stalling problem history sounds awefully similar to that of Scotsman. I think the time has come for you to contact the dealer and the BBB in your area. How many times has your car been to the dealer/days out of service to attempt to repair the same problem?

Stalling/Hesitation problems are not only annoying but down right dangerous while driving in traffic.

Same as Scotsman, the facts on your case are 'Clear as water'. GM should replace your car with a new 2001 Impala LS. Scotsman was successful filing his claim with GM and the BBB, you should be able to do the same.

As far as the color is concerned, nope you can't get a 2001 custom painted in Regal Medium Blue. I had to let go of my first color choice (Driftwood) for the '01 replacement (Sandrift) but in the end I know I am getting a better car for years to come.

Don't put up with your problems anymore, stand up and make GM do the right thing for you!

pat · April 2001

Have you seen this discussion over on our Finance, Warranty & Insurance Board: Talk Directly To 1Source Auto Warranty?

You might want to check it out.

Pat
Host
Sedans and Women's Auto Center Message Boards

stnel · April 2001

In an earlier post regarding cradle problems on cars built before 10/00, were there other problems as well with cars built prior to that date. I've re-read a number of posts and only saw cradle problems.

teo - I just got an Impala brochure this weekend and saw your picture.

platour · April 2001

Thanks for the tip, Pat. It is so difficult trying to keep up with all the discussion groups. I did not know of that one. And it is interesting!

yurakm · April 2001

There were several posting about similar problem on the Alero board:

ryanroseberry "Oldsmobile Alero 2" Mar 24, 2001 8:36pm

Turned to be a bad fuel pump regulator. After sitting while, the fuel leaked back to tank and was not available when starting.

ryanroseberry "Oldsmobile Alero 2" Mar 30, 2001 4:14pm

pat · April 2001

You are certainly welcome, platour - let us know what you find out over there.

lrcobra · April 2001

How was your trip? let us all know about the spectacular mileage.
Lrcobra

platour · April 2001

It may be sloshing (sp?) of the fuel in the gas tank. I hear it from time-to-time.

platour · April 2001

Pat, I read all 150+ posts over there and contributed a couple of my own. I was distressed to learn that a thermostat failure and subsequent engine overheating/damage might not be covered by my 1Source Diamond warranty. I leave Impala Forum members to draw their own conclusions from the questions I posted (e.g. #152) and the answers I have yet to receive.

nick01 · April 2001

I ordered my 2001 impala on the 7th of March. The dealer said it would take 6-8 weeks.It came in this morning. I took delivery this afternoon. 25 days. No one at the dealership could believe it. The bronzemist paint dont look to bad. I can live with it. Lots of road noise, but not as much as the Monty Carlo I test drove. I think I will like it. 25 days...can you believe that. I'm located in central Indiana.

bdime · April 2001

Congrats on the Brozemist 01. I really liked the test drive of the MonteCarlo too-
sporty and loved those tail lights (But I am a Jeff Gordon fan so it doesn't take
alot to sell me) I couldn't see the 2 door and it costs about $10 more a month in
car insurance-ouch! Happy with my Impala

2005 and Earlier Chevrolet Impala

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