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BTW, has anyone ever asked you what "TEO" stands for? Would you care to enlighten us, or should we start guessing? Or, was it mentioned before, and I just missed it?
In addition, it should work with the existing wiring harness, if your car is so equipped, as long as you re-connect the two dangling connectors under the right kick panel.
Premier Audio has it for $260 plus $48 for the magazine. M&R has it for $300 plus $60 for the mag. PartsZoneOnline has it for $270 plus $36 for the mag. Chuck Hutton has it for $348 plus $39 for the mag.
I researched quite a bit when I was thinking of getting one. I've put off my changer plans for now. But, I'm still curious to see if anyone gets one and how it works for them.
V-E-R
Silver! Silver!
Gooooooooooooooo Silver!
How much are you hauling in your car?
Are you using your trunk as a spare room?
How long are you driving at a steady speed?
Out west we can go hundreds of miles before dropping down to 55
Road environment
Both coasts with much traffic and constantly changing speed limits and potholes
Tire pressure
Use of Cruise Control
Watch the DIC in MPG mode (not average MPG) and the variation in MPG
Clean Car?
I know I sent a "let's all be nice" note a few posts ago, but I just gotta say, Torch Red kick's everyone's butt
On my trip last month to the mountains i drove 79-81 mph and went from an elevation of 6' to 2400'. I got 27.75 mppg
It was interstate the whole way with no stoplights.
The trip from the mountains to Atlanta included lots of stoplights and some slower speeds.
Gas mileage was identical or slightly better.
From Atlanta back home i was into the 28 mpg range. It included slower speeds at 64 mph. and by the time i got to charleston i was up to about 29mpg, but did not get gas for a couple of days. So i don't know the trip mpg.
Speed is what controls the mileage.
I've been told that part #25659167 will also work. Apparently, it's the same changer. I'm not sure of the specific part # for this one's magazine, or if it uses the same magazine part # as the first one.
With no disrespect to Kim or Chuck Hutton Chevy, the prices at partszoneonline.com are usually quite a bit cheaper.
http://www.luckyjdr.homestead.com/impala.html
This was on flat ground in New Mexico, windoze were up and the A/C was on........
I don't want ppl to think we get that daily with our work/home commute. That average is in the high 24's to low 25 mpg.
I've never owned a red vehicle. A buddy had a 1987 red Chevy truck he bought new. He nick named it " the target" after 3 minor bang ups that were not his fault in about 18 months. Then the truck was stolen a few years later.
He drives a red Ford pickup now. LOL
First - if you live in a "greater" metro area (I live outside of Richmond, VA) then most likely your buying one of the "reformulated blends" for pollution control. These "blends" even change with the seasons for your area. Your gas mileage will be less than those who are buying outside the area. These "blended fuels" rob you of both power and gas mileage.
Second - I have definitely seen a difference in mileage between different retailers. I used to buy all my gas at Amoco (87 octane). I switched to the Texaco right across the street and I definitely get about 50 more miles to the tank of mixed highway and city driving (3 - 4 miles per gallon more). Also if your burning a higher octane then your mileage may go down. If your car's not knocking then you have absolutely no need for a higher octane gas. (and it shouldn't be knocking). It was set up to run its best on 87 octane.
Third - Check your air filter!!! If its dirty your mileage will suffer. Also check the air filter intake horn. I believe someone on this board said they found a plastic Walmart bag or some such sucked up into it. I believe they said this was the cause of their hesitation problem.
Fourth - Check your tire pressure. Its should be at least at the recommended pressure listed on the inside of the trunk lid.
Fifth - Driving habits are probably the biggest influence on your gas mileage. If you drive like your at Indy then expect Indy gas mileage.
Ok, class dismissed. And don't get in front of me on the way home!! Haha.
Impalanator's observations are right on the money. Tire pressures, driving habits, vehicle load, maintenance, etc, etc.
It is essential to check the tire air pressures at least once a week.
However, i just blew all my car fun tix (see Porsche advice-pt 2).and need a good over the road car.
I started driving when vast herds of Impalas roamed the fruited plain ( 1966 ) and my first three cars were a '61 bubble top, 63 SS and a 64 sedan. I also enjoyed the mighty 95 SS.
Now that I have to get practical it seems that Impalas are there too.
Since I don't have time to read 5000 posts.( 5k plus posts means that there is some passion about these cars, I just don't know whether it's love or hate. The taurus doesn't even have a discussion). Can someone tell me if this will make a good, 40-50k miles per year Salesmans car?
Thanks for your opinions.
The passion on this board is truly LOVE.
Brad
At the DIC, press both (And leave them pressed) "RESET" and "MODE" buttons simultaneously.
After 3 seconds you'll hear a 'Beep' tone that confirms that the measurament readout has been changed.
Now your odometer, trip meter, and DIC will display the readouts in Kilometers, Liters or Miles and Gallons.
Impala have big trunk, rear legroom, and its body have better crash rating. Regal have the most comfortable seats / suspension, especially for longer highway trips. Intrigue and Gran Prix are more sporty.
All trims of Intrigue have unique 3.5l engine, derived from Cadillac Norstar. It is optimized for higher speed, like passing on highway and on rural roads.
The upper trim Regal GS and GP GTP have even more powerful, supercharged 3.8l engine. However, they needs premium gas. Roughly $200 extra per year for typical driver, more with your mileage.
Impala LS, Regal LS, and Gran Prix GT have the classical 3.8l GM engine. Reasonably powerful, especially in city traffic, at low rpm.
All of these cars are good. However, for long highway trips, I would look first at Intrigue and/or Regal GS.
Base Impala, Buick Century, and GP SE have 3.4l or 3.ll engines and are somewhat underpowered.
Intrigue = 3.5L DOHC 215HP V6 engine, PCS and 3.29 ratio are its main attractions. Terrible crash testing results, horrible resale, spotty reliability and an orphan model and brand as they will be discontinued in 2002. 5/60 warranty and cheap financing makes them kinda tempting. Olds dealer service is on the lousy side.
Grand Prix = Very sporty, sharp looking car. Supercharged GTP version is a must. Downs are so-so crashworthiness and cheap, creaky interior. If you can live with the cheap interior, you can get one with good finance incentives
Century = 3.1L V6. This car is famous with rental agencies or the geritol set. Not worth it.
Impala LS (3800 V6) is a fantastic car for highway travel and better than either Regal or Intrigue (have been in all 3).
I'll keep you posted then.
I doubt if Olds dealer service is really any better or worse than Chevy's, as a rule. Here in San Jose, Olds, Pontiac, Buick, and GMC are often sold and serviced at the same dealerships in some combination or another. I don't think they'd treat an Olds any differently than a Pontiac, etc.
I think you may give GM a little too much credit in the brand differenciation dept. Many of the sister models are made in the same plants, with much of the same parts from the same vendors, sometimes on the same lines by the same people. Take a look at the Grand Amlero.
BTW, the Regal doesn't have to look too AARPy with the right color, the right wheels and tires... maybe even a spoiler... ;-)
In the ergonomics I dislike the use of the old 'Smart Stalk' (Roger Smith era device) in the GP. Cruise control/wiper/headlights all are crammed into the stalk. The Impala has more up to date steering wheel buttons from the Cruise and Stereo. They still use a mechanical odo versus the digital one in the Impala. I know big deal, but those little insignificant details do make a world of a difference in the way the interior is presented. The fit and finish of the GP GTP that I test drove was not impressive and it was below the quality of the Impala and the Regal which both are made in Canada while the GP is made in Fairfax, KS.
Pluses of the GP is that it handles better than the Impala and it has the Magnasteer steering system. However my beef with magnasteer is that it is completely devoid of any road feedback.
Don't get me wrong the GP is still after 5 production years a very nice car. But the interior bits come from the old GM parts bin school and the fit/finish is not its strong suit.
Of course alll of this is just opinion.
I have NEVER had that problem in the impala.
My father had a medium brown car in the early 80's and got hit very often in that thing. We were guessing it was camouflaged very well, because the accidents seemed so stupid otherwise. Like having a car take a left into you as you go straight through an intersection. Seems like they wouldn't do that if they could see you...
However, everyone knows Red is a big target for cops. Fortunately I don't speed. If I did, I'd never get a red car.
I found the interior of the Regal to be much nicer than the Impala in terms of materials. I suppose craftmanship is probably about the same. Those two are made in the same plant, right? They make better beer up there, too. Mmmmmm. Beer. I'll be right back.
Ever since I purchased 2000 Impala a little over a year ago, I've beenfighting with service people at both Anderson Chevrolet in Menlo Park, CA and at Ellis Brooks Chevrolet in San Francisco to look into some strangenoises that the car was producing. However, up until now, I did not check other Impala Owners' websites/discussion groups, as well as NHTSA website.After getting familiar with the current issues, these are the ones that I'm sure are the problem in my car:
1) Warped Rotors
2) Steering clunks
3) Cradle clicks (clicks when accelerating/decelerating)
4) There is also a clicking noise when I put the car in reverse.
However, some (if not all) of these problems are not very easy to reproduce, especially if they occur under certain conditions.
Ellis Brooks Service Manger told me that their mechanics will not even check any of the problem reports from GM Database until the problem is identified during a test drive (to save GM money). This does not make any sense since GM reports list the ways for mechanics to identify the problem without the test drive. Also, he told me that mechanics are NOT being subjected to any quality control.
Please let me know if you know of a GM-authorized Service Center in San Francisco or anywhere in the Bay Area that WILL look into GM Database and that have a department dedicated to quality.
I have no idea what to do next so any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Oleg
Don't get me wrong at some point I considered getting one and the Jetta has much going for it but quality and reliability (If you get past the looks and interior materials)don't belong in the standard list of features for the VW Jetta.
Another gripe with the Jetta is the alarming lack of rear leg room space on a four door sedan, ridiculous.
My friend is has had a lot of problems with her '99 2.0L Sedan and she is considering letting go of it very soon. Too bad is a nice looking dark green sedan.
$17K for a car that stickered when new at least $22K or $23K? Hardly impressive. You can sell a 2000 Impala LS in pristine condition with 32K miles for around $18K to $20K in my local market. The base models sell for as much as $16K to $18K depending on condition, mileage and options.
Anyway, you did the right thing by getting rid of your '00 Jetta GLS and getting an new Pathfinder..a much higher quality product indeed without the headaches and cost of VW ownership.
My '01 Impala LS with nearly 4K miles, doesn't exhibit a single rattle anywhere in the interior. Before my '01 LS I had a '00 LS and at 15K miles it had no rattles either. While the interior might not have the *perfect* packaging of the Jetta or Audi products is still very good, attractive and functional and well screwed together I might add. I drive in roads that have a large number of pothholes, bumps, rough pavement and other imperfections....the car feels extra solid. In a Jetta? Probably by 1000 miles the thing would have already being rattling like an orchestra of Maracas...
Did you hear the beep tone?
In my LS the odometer, trip meter and DIC readings ALL switch from English to Metric and viceversa with no problems.
Try again.
I've basically had 3 problems with my Impala:
1. Intermittant A/C temperature, which has apparently fixed itself.
2. Engine hesitation, which they repaired with an injector flush.
3. Loose driver's seat back, which they didn't correct, but did order the part and make the attempt.
As soon as they finish their move to Stevens Creek and San Tomas, I will go back and ask for a whole new seat. I have a feeling they'll comply. They are very courteous and eager to please.
They also have a cool '50's style cafe at their current location. I hope they'll have one at their new place.
Just take I-280 South to Saratoga Ave. North(Left) on Saratoga. Right on Stevens Creek. Two blocks to San Tomas.(408)249-3131
Where are the Vette owners? In the shop?
Malibu and Cavalier owners do spend a lot of time in the shop, however...
In March we have the auto show and I was able to narrow down my search for a replacement vehicle quite a bit. I decided that the car I wanted to buy had to have more than one dealer in the area. This narrowed my choices. At the auto show I was able to compare ease of entry and exit from the various cars.
On July 7th I went to a local dealer that I have been checking out and I had seen that they just received an Impala LS. On that day I test-drove the Oldsmobile Intrigue GLS and then the Impala LS. I found the Impala a little more comfortable and cheaper.
I traded in the VW and drove off in a white Impala LS build date of 6/01 and the date that is under the drivers seat is 6/11 and the engine cradle is 6/8/1. I am very pleased with the Impala it has a lot of power and still gets good gas mileage, only 3 to 4 mpg less than the VW around town. I am planning my Thanksgiving trip to San Diego and I feel the Impala will get close to the same mileage as the VW on that trip. Just FYI the VWs EPA sticker listed the mileage at 23/28 and the Impala is 20/30 on the trip to California in the VW I would average 29 to 30 mpg.
My Impala currently has less than 3,000 miles on it. The only things I miss from the VW is the 6-disc cd changer and the Goodrich Comp T/A tires.
I don't think that's a great value IMHO
Czardale:: Welcome to the club. You'll have a blast in the Impala!
LOL
Actually, it's one sweet car. I've always wondered why there's no Corvette discussions in TH. It's probably because there are so many Corvette specific web sites and clubs elswhere. Most Vette owners are quite fond of their little cars.
My cubicle neighbor has a beautiful blue 1994 C4. Forget splash guards, floor mats, and K&N filter. He put in a whole new air intake, Corsa cat back exhaust, differential, nitrous, wheels and tires, etc. The amazing thing is he got it on eBay for $14K, and added about $3K in mods. $17K total for that car!!! Golly!
I am here strictly for the purpose of finding my winter vehicle when I put my Vette to sleep in a few months here in the midwest. I tested the Impala's Traction Control system here last winter and was very impressed. I have been monitoring conversation here for a while now, but thought I would speak up on this, plus one other issue that was recently discussed regarding resale value.
I have been monitoring this very closely in my area lately and have found that I can get a 2000 Impala LS with average miles (20-30k) for about $17k right now in this month of August. A standard Impala can be had for about $14k (rental companies are actually letting them go now for about $11,900, but that is a whole different story). By October, the prices overall will drop by another $1k to $2k lower yet, and I really have a tough time believing that anyone could get more than $18k for their used 2000 in any condition now or later in fall. Maybe its just my area that its a buyers market, but I doubt it.
24 month: 45.0%
36 month: 37.0%
48 month: 32.0%
60 month: 27.0%
These numbers usually correspond to resale value. Because I leased through GMAC, I was able to get a 50% residual on a 36 month lease on a 2001 LS. If I went through a bank, my payments would have been higher than most foreign cars costing $1000's more.
Based on Edmund's TMV values provided for my zipcode, the Impala commands the highest resale value among all American midsize sedans. The worst performers on that appraisal were the Ford Taurus, Dodge Intrepid and Olds Intrigue.
Since I keep my cars well beyond 3 or 4 years, resale value becomes a moot point. If I were to trade cars every 1 to 3 years, then I would have opted for a different route on an *import* vehicle.
What are the specs of your Corvette model?
I agree 100% with your comments regarding heavy bias against the Corvette from one of the moderators in the Coupe/Sports car forum. No wonder the Montecarlo owners decided to move away from Edmunds to make home at Yahoo Clubs.
Hope that you can become yet another happy Impala owner.
In reality, the residual value of the Impala LS at 36 months is more in the 40% to 45% neighboorhood, according to Kiplinger's.
Generally speaking, I do not recommend leasing 'Bread and Butter' American cars because their low residuals make them very expensive to lease, but cheaper to purchase.
Actually, the salesman did say that GM gives a higher residual value to help move their cars, which makes sense.
>"Generally speaking, I do not recommend leasing 'Bread and Butter' American cars because their low residuals make them very expensive to lease, but cheaper to purchase."
NOW YOU TELL ME! ;-)
I used the Automotive Leasing Guide, which is an industry standard, for the numbers I posted. My understanding is most banks use that.
I just checked Kelley. The trade-in for a 2000 LS w/24K, excellent cond, FULLY LOADED w/leather, CD, premium sound, power seat, alloys, spoiler, etc in San Jose is $17,345. Of course, one wouldn't actually get that from the dealer, but it should be close.
Hertz sells 2000 LS's for $15,000, 2001 LS's for $19K here.
This means that GMAC artificially *inflated* the projected residual value over 36 months, to lower your monthly payments thus giving you an added incentive to drive away in the car.
My advice: When the lease expires return it. Let GMAC take a bath on it unless you want to keep the car and be able to negotiate the residual value at the end of the term.
Same thing happened when I leased my '97 Acura 2.5TL for only $350 per month for 36 months with AHFC and only $1000.00 that were made up of the security deposit, bank fees and first month's payment. (Oh yeah those were the days of cheap leases on Japanese luxury cars).
I had planned to buy out the car at the end of the lease (In despite of the jerky transmission I really liked the car and it was also in prestine condition) but the residual was way above the actual used market value and AHFC wouldn't bulge to lower the residual value. I returned it and AHFC took a nice cold water bath on it.
Leases have an advantage only when the manufacturer's lending arm is willing to bite the bullet at the end of the contract and subvent the lease to lower your payments. Current leases are moving away from that costly trend and now you must pay for the depreciation or capitalization costs UP FRONT. Leases under those terms do not attract me at all.
I financed my Impala for 36 months, have it free and clear in about a year or so, and have at least 3 to 4 years FREE from car payments. To me this is the cheapest way of car ownership. No more leasing for me unless I can get a BMW 325 for $300 per month for 36 Months and $500.00 down...wishful thinking