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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • whatnow2whatnow2 Member Posts: 24
    shifting from 1st to 2nd is not smooth, sort of a "hitch" unless the truck has been driven 30 miles or more. another hint may be clutch noise after 30 miles driven - sort of a bearing-type sound. I know i've seen talk of a synchro ring problem with the 2001 5M transmission, but don't want to enter into a giant hassle with the dealer unless necessary.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    The Tacoma I was going to take delivery of this week was damaged in port. There was greater than $500 damage and the dealership refused the truck. A different truck with same equipment was found and I will likely take delivery of it around the end of December. The wait is making me anxious. Anyone have any Tacoma info. while I am waiting?
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    www.tacomaterritory.com
    This is a nationwide offroad club. You can get all info you want there. Beware, though, it's hard on your wallet, being in TTORA.
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    It is sometimes hard to shift into second when truck is cold, it's a little notchy. As far as clutch noise....sounds like it's just your truck.
    No problems with syncho rings on 2001 manuals, don't know where you got that from.
    Check with www.tacomaterritory.com guys, we got a lot of people who know a lot about Tacos, they might help you diagnose the problem.
  • floydsunfloydsun Member Posts: 6
    My Taco is hard to shift into second when cold also. I am going to try Redline synthetic MTF which is a 70-80W gear oil. I heard 75W gear oil solved this problem but can't find any.
  • dcabman1dcabman1 Member Posts: 19
    I own a 2002 Toyota Double Cab. Up until a couple of days ago, this has been a great trouble-free truck for nearly a year. While out off-roading in the truck this weekend, the shifter suddenly would not work: it wouldn't shift into reverse or park. This was a serious problem because I was in a remote area, on a narrow mountain road, that I couldn't turn around on without the use of reverse. I tried several methods for fixing this problem and nothing seemed to do the trick.

    First, I put the truck in neutral and turned the ignition off, then with the brake applied turned the vehicle back on and attempted to shift into reverse. This didn't solve the problem, even after repeating several times. Next I tried to shift the four-wheel drive selector into various positions (4H, 2H, N, and 2L), but this didn't work either. Still no luck. The next approach was to operate a tiny little lever next to the shifter. According to the operating manual, this lever is designed to help a driver get the truck out of park and into drive, but my problem was just the opposite. Needless to say, using this lever had no effect. At this point, I had no choice but to keep driving forward on the remote mountain road hoping to find a spot to turn around in without the use of reverse.

    After driving about a mile and periodically stopping to check the problem, reverse miraculously began to work, but not park was still broke. When I finally reached a turn-around in the road, I pulled over and began looking at the various fuses associated with the automatic transmission hoping to solve what seemed to be an electronic problem. Every fuse was intact. Lastly, after the truck sat for a couple of minutes with the engine off, I was able to shift the truck into park. This incident happened two days ago and the truck has shifted fine ever since.

    When I arrived home after this incident, I called the local Toyota dealership and asked if they could fix the problem. The service manager's response was to ask me if I was depressing the brake pedal simultaneously while trying to shift into reverse, I said yes. Then he asked if the car was still causing me problems and I said no, it's working fine now. His final answer was that unless he could catch the truck in the act of preventing me from shifting into reverse or park, I'm going to have to wait to see if the problem repeats itself then call him to see if he can fix it.

    Has anyone on this board heard of such a problem? I'm really nervous about getting back off the main road and having to deal with this problem again. If the problem flared up while I'm in the parking lot at Wal-Mart, that's really not that big of a deal. But what happens if I'm several miles from civilization and this problems shows up again? I'm really hoping that some of you have some clues as to what could be the source of this problem so I can give the service manager some direction.

    Thank you.
  • drdrevansdrdrevans Member Posts: 17
    dcabman, I'll be you had some junk stuck in your shift linkage and as it worked its way loose you were first able to shift into R and then, when it was gone, you could shift through all your gears.

    Back in the early 80s I had a TransAm (those were the days) that bounced off its bottom on a parking lot bump. The impact slightly crushed the linkage and it had to be completely rebuilt. I haven't looked at the linkage on my Tacoma (which I just got), but many automatics have some sort of system of levers and such on the outside of the AT case that can be jammed by a rock or a branch or something in freak cases. That would explain why it works fine now.

    FWIW.
  • whatnow2whatnow2 Member Posts: 24
    Looked back and found msgs 132 - 141 on this board about shifting problems - must have read them months ago. As long as the problem stays only "notchy" (good description), and only when cold, probably living with it is better than hassling with the dealer. 1.5 years left on the warranty to see how it goes.
  • skiwarriorskiwarrior Member Posts: 1
    Took delivery of a 2003 Tacoma SR5 Xtra Cab October 25, 2002 with exterior paint color metallic Imperial Jade Mica. The bottom of both door panels/door frames have a light "orange peel" texture. Looks like a defective factory paint job to me. Has anyone else had this experience? First e-mails to Toyota National Assistance Center have not been answered. My 1990 SR5 Truck did not have this defect. Is this Toyota Quality?
  • smgillessmgilles Member Posts: 252
    all new tacomas come with this to serve as a barrier to rock chips. My 2001 came the same way.
  • toyotakentoyotaken Member Posts: 897
    The paint on the bottom of the doors and body panels is actually supposed to be sort of orange-peely. This is because they use a special type of paint that is softer than the rest that is designed not to be as prone to chipping in areas that are likely to see stones and debris kicked up. Look at any toyota and you'll see the same thing. They also use a special primer on the front of the hood and the whole underside of the doors and body panels for the same reason, although it isn't nearly as effective as the soft paint compound.
  • shultzeshultze Member Posts: 1
    I have had my 2002 Tacoma 4x4 for 3 months and it has been in the shop 3 times for the same problem.
    I keep having water pooling up on the passenger side floor board everytime it rains. The first time the dealer ship replaced a gasket behind the firewall but the problem still exsits. does anybody have any suggestions
  • humestonhumeston Member Posts: 5
    I bought my DC 2002 Tacoma in late July. I noticed on my last two extended trips which involved night driving, that the headlights must be set too high. Oncoming traffic continually pops their highbeams. Brought the truck into the local dealer and was told it would cost inexcess of 80 bucks to have them dropped down. Is it this complicated to set these somewhat lower?? They quoted 2 hours to do the job. Thanks for and assistance. Mike (Idaho)
  • nra1871nra1871 Member Posts: 26
    I had that problem on my ranger and it took a few times before they found the problem. The rear window needed its seal replaced.
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    Wow! I don't know what headlights are like now, but years ago I lived in a state that had safety inspections. One of the things they would check was the angle of the headlights. Once mine were off and the guy doing the inspection (local gas station) adjusted them in a second - it was one or 2 screws. Have they changed that much over the years?
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    Just look at the corner near the air box down low and you will see a screw with a hex tip on it, I think it is 5/32 socket and the other side low on the battery side, same screw.
    Adjusting that screw will do vertical adjustment.
  • alans1476alans1476 Member Posts: 2
    Need help / advise: I live in Hawaii, got a brand new Tacoma Prerunner, V6, 29 miles, love the truck. Temperature gauge is at about 2/3 of way toward H, in 80 degree weather. Is that normal? Coolant level OK, rises when hot, when cool contracts back to correct level (middle of bottle). I think it has 195f thermostat. Oil ok, belts ok. I turned on heater full blast to ensure no air, etc.
    How much heat does a new engine generate? break in period? Would this be the cause? Should I put in a 180F thermostat? What is the range of the temperature gauge corresponding to temperature in degrees? (ie middle is 180, 3/4 is 220, H is 240?)
    I am concerned. thanks
  • mtngalmtngal Member Posts: 1,911
    I had a wierd problem with my 2000 Taco last spring. It started overheating when I was going up any type of grade - worse in hot weather. Replaced thermostat but didn't make a difference. They ended up finding a solid blockage in the radiator and replaced it under warranty (though they had said when I took it in that it was a wear part, like a clutch and wouldn't be covered). The dealer thought it might have been a manufacturing defect or something.
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    I doubt it's the weather: I live in TX, and my temp stays at 50% (in the middle, horizontal) all the time when warm, even if it's 100 deg outside. Have the dealer look at it, it's not supposed to happen.
  • 2k1trd2k1trd Member Posts: 301
    My 01 V6 always runs in the middle of cold and hot no matter what the temp is outside or if i'm running the a/c.
  • riddlejariddleja Member Posts: 6
    I have a 2002 double cab 4x4 TRD with 12,000 miles that recently started rattling behind the dash. I took it to the dealership 4 times. The first time, they put some sort of foam behind the radio. That didn't work, so then they claimed to have tightened some airbag bracket. That didn't work, so they took it in and again "couldn't find the problem." I pushed them further and they installed some sort of noise reduction kit. I now have a the same exact rattle, albeit a little more muffled by the foam.


    The sound seems to come from the lower dashboard in 2 places - 1 is behind/to the right of the radio, and the other seems to come from the bottom right side of the glove box. Possibly something related to the airbag?


    The sound isn't always consistent - I haven't found anything that always triggers it. I'll drive a few days without hearing it, then suddenly, it'll chatter unstoppably for minutes on end.


    I appreciate any ideas any of you have. I've read through past postings and I'm wondering if anything new has come up.


    Thanks,

    Riddler

  • tistevetisteve Member Posts: 142
    My rear u-joint started making a high pitch squeal noise when no load is on the drive train (coasting or easing off accelerator). Only occurs at speeds above 25-30 mph. Sounds like a loose fan belt, very high pitched.

    I lubed it up at all the zerk fittings and the noise goes away for a day or so and then comes back, tried several times. Seems worse when cold. I did neglect lubing it until 30k miles. Now has 39k. Joint seems tight and no excessive play. What could be causing this? Did I fry it buy not lubing it sooner?

    Any advice appreciated,

    Steve
    '99 Tacoma 4x4 TRD 5-spd 4 cyl
  • lariat1lariat1 Member Posts: 461
    Sounds like the u-joint is going bad, If you are under warranty have the dealer replace it if not they are cheap ($10-$25) and take about half an hour to replace. As a warning you are much better off replacing the universal now because if it fails while you are driving it can cause a lot of damage.
  • cutterinfiniticutterinfiniti Member Posts: 1
    I have 2003 trd dc prerunner 3.4 V6. I have been getting under 14MPG and drive with a light foot. What are you guys getting?
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    They may sing the "breakin period" song, but don't bulge. Gas milage is about 1mpg less during break-in period, not 5. Just stand firm and have them run diagnostics on the engine. If could be many things, really: bad gasoline, low tire pressure. But if problem persists and you fill up at different gas stations, then definitely take it back.
  • davedave1davedave1 Member Posts: 45
    My 2002 4 cyl 2.4L tacoma has 6000 mi and now has a very noisy engine at idle. it almost sounds like a diesel, but depends on how hi the idle is and how much the engine has warmed up. [no noise when cold or partially warmed up] No problems with starting, acceleration, smoothness etc.
    Oil was changed at 2400 and 5800. The dealer did the last one; no idea what oil he put in but it's probably 5w30.
    Should I be using a different oil than 5w30?? Is this even a problem?
    Thanks for ideas.
  • yosmanyyosmany Member Posts: 13
    (1) I need the low down one the air filter problem that everyone is having. Is putting a K&N air filter going to hurt my MAF in the long run? Would a TRD one be better?

    (2) I have read all the post on the Air Bag compartment rattle that my truck and many others are having. I am taking back to the dealership this weekend, hopefully letting them know that it is just not my truck would help them out. Is there any thing else I need to know about this be fore this weekend?

    (3)I have a pinging coming form my my engine while it is in idle. I have a 2002 V6 Tacoma and I have already taken it in once before and they told me that it was just wires in the engine bouncing around, but I know for a fact it's coming from the engine block.

    I just bought a supercharger and plan to have it installed in a couple of weeks. I'd really like to have all these problems fixed before I do anything else to the truck. That's why I'd really like to know what the deal is with the air filter and MAF. Should I change it or leave it alone.

    One last question. Does anyone out there know from experience or otherwise if it is a good idea to add headers and change my exhaust. If I should change my exhaust, should I go with the TRD cat back or a after market like Flowmaster.

    I would really appreciate the advice.

    Yosmany
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    1. Oiled airfilter: there are mixed opinions on this. Some people never had problems, some people had throttle body engulfed in oil. I guess putting too much oil on the filter could be a problem. I think regular cleaning of the throttle body/MAF might prevent it.

    Charger: have the dealership install it. That way it'll be covered under warranty. Headers are PITA to install by yourself, but they are nothing bad. Ditto for the exaust. If you install it at the dealership, they'll just cover it under warranty. TRD will just cost you a lot more than Flowmaster/Magnaflow. I had a shop put in magnaflow for $130 alltogether.
  • yosmanyyosmany Member Posts: 13
    First off let me say thank you Sc0rpi0. You are by far one of the most helpful people on this message board.

    Going back to your response about he exhaust. You have a Magnaflow, right. What kind of performance increase have you seen on your truck? Also, do feel that Magnaflow is better that Flowmaster. The Flowmaster store was asking me if I was interested in replacing the entire exhaust system or just after the catalytic converter, basically the muffler. What do you think?

    Do you use a after market filter? If you do, what steps do you take to maintain it?

    Also you wrote the the headers are PITA, I'm sorry but I didn't understand what you meant what you meant by that.

    Do you have a supercharger on your truck? If you do, how do you like it and what other modifications have you made?

    Yosmany
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    I only have a catback system...replacing the cat would have been too much $$ for me. I went with Magnaflow because it sounded better: Flowmaster is simply too loud and harsh for me. Magnaflow has roar, but it's quieter. It's fine for me: up to 3000 rpms, you can't really hear the engine, it's all exaust. After 3K engine noise takes over. I imagine with Flowmaster you'll just hear exaust.

    As far as performance increase....I figure my truck is right around 200hp now: just the muffler and deckplate mod (basically, take the airbox and cut a hole infront of it, before the filter. It allows for much more air to go through). Look around on http://www.ttora-ne.com/newsite/main.htm (TTORA New England chapter) site, they may have dyno results for non-charged trucks with exaust, deckplate and airfilter mods. I know there was one done about a year ago.

    I don't have a charger..it costs too damn much, and with the lead foot I have, it's the last thing I need. I hear it feels gggoooooooooddddd :)

    I use Amsoil foam filter instead of KnN. It's same idea of using oil, but tests show (and this is a huge controversy) that Amsoil filters better. As for maintaining it.........I've had it in since day 1, for a year now, and in 22K miles I haven't replaced/oiled it. I would just pop it out after particular nasty offroad trips (dusty roads, etc), beat the dust off of it, pop it back in and go on. I'll be reoiling it when I do my 30K service.

    Adding headers is a pain in the *** (PITA), that's the general consensus. Easier to have it done by the dealer, and you get the benefit of having it covered by warranty.
  • yosmanyyosmany Member Posts: 13
  • smgillessmgilles Member Posts: 252
    DO NOT use the TRD or K&N or any other type of pre-oiled drop in filter, especially if you are going to be S/Ced anyway. I ran a K&N with my S/C and then switched back to OEM paper filters. The paper filter is much better at filtering fine dust particles, plus you don't have to worry about killing your MAF. ($300)!

    For the S/C I installed a tranny cooler since I have an Automatic and switched all fluids to sythetic in the entire drivetrain. I have had my S/C on for 20,000 miles and have had zero problems (knock on wood). Just make sure you use premium fuel, try to find 92 octane or higher if you can. I run a catback exhaust (Gibson), but you would be just fine with just the S/C because I didn't notice that big of a difference when I installed the exhaust.

    If you have anymore questions just ask.
  • riddlejariddleja Member Posts: 6
    I just got back from the dealership. They tore apart my dash and drove around until they found the source of the rattle. They said it wasn't from the airbag itself, but from the computer that sits near the airbag. Something about its brackets? I'm not sure, but they put some foam around the computer and the noise is gone, so I'm happy for now. I just drove it for the first time, and so far so good.


    Riddler

  • saddaddysaddaddy Member Posts: 566
    My extra cab 2000 Prerunner v6 also got about 15 mpg the first summer I had it. The last time I checked it was after a 200 mile drive with an average speed of about 63 mph; I got 23.5 mpg. Man was I stoked. After the first year my truck finally starting averaging around 17mpg, and about 3 months ago I bought a K&N filter and the mileage jumped up an average of 2 more miles per gallon. If I could make myself drive 50 mph everywher I could get better than 25 mpg I bet.

    It has been my experience that 3 things hurt mileage more than anything:
    1. A lead foot - On a lonely straight away last nite I stomped on it and got up to 85 in a very short time and then slowed right back down, and the trip I was on took noticeably more gasoline to complete
    2. Short trips - driving several 1.5 mile trips a day to class keep my mileage at an average of 17.5 when there are no long trips mixed in.
    3. Sustained high speeds above, say, 70 mph - this doesn't hurt the mileage, just prevents it from being 22+.

    Also make sure your tires have a decent amount of pressure in them. And I would highly recommend an aftermarket air filter. I had heard reports that they didn't help mileage at all, but I have seen the exact opposite.

    Hope this helps guys.
  • colbydogcolbydog Member Posts: 1
    The dealer replaced both front fender flares on my 2001 DC a month ago, but the trim is coming out again. Additionally, now the left rear trim (around the gas tank) is coming out. Is there a permanent fix for this? Someone posted that this issue was addressed in the 2002 model year. Is that true? Does this happen to owners of Limited models (ie, is the design the same on those flares). As long as keeps coming out, I'll keep taking it back - but it does become a PITA leaving your truck for a two days (1 day to "diagnose" the problem, 1 day to fix it)
  • hoganitehoganite Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 2002 Tacoma, V6, double cab, TRD with 300 miles. I use to own a 99 Tacoma V6. The new double cab seems to shift with alittle jerk, every time it shifts from gear to gear(especially under high rpm's) compared to the previous Tacomas I have owned. I now have 5000 miles on it and it is becoming very annoying. My previous Tacomas shifted very smoothly and I never had any problems like this. I took it to the dealers and they told me it needed to be broke in! Weirdly enough, the doulbe cab shifts very smoothly in four wheel drive and also with ect. I figured the 2002 would be a better riding vehicle than a 99. Any suggestions? Thanks
    hoganite11@yahoo.com
  • joevirginiajoevirginia Member Posts: 3
    Recommend that owners of Tacoma pick up trucks take vehicles in to have wheel bearings repacked and spindles inspected on regular basis. Here is the situation: Driving down the highway at 70 mph in my 98 "Quality" Tacoma and the right front spindle snaps and the wheel flies off including brakes, rotor, and brake line. No injuries. Toyota sent a representative to investigate and provided this short explanation. "They could find no indication of a design or manufacturing defect." This implies that a properly maintained Tacoma by a Toyota dealership can expect to have its spindle snap at 60,000 miles under normal wear and tear. Hence my recommendation to all Tacoma owners. Any specific questions on this send to me at joevirginia@yahoo.com.
  • epharpepharp Member Posts: 7
    I have a 1998 tacoma and when I went to go to work this morning the key would not turn at all in the ignition. It is Sunday and no service departments are open. Does anybody have a clue on the cause? Did the 1998's have a computer chip in the key? If it did, is it possible that it lost the code? Spare key won't work either so what can be checked on the truck. HELP. I do have the alarm system installed but it is disarmed when I attempt to start it.
  • plutoniousplutonious Member Posts: 799
    This probably sounds obvious, but have you tried wiggling the steering wheel back and forth while turning the key in the ignition?
  • epharpepharp Member Posts: 7
    Yes I have tried that. The key will turn approximately 1/4 inch but will not turn any further. The steering wheel is not locked. I did find a key that I had made as a spare that had previously worked and it does not have a chip in it so we can rule the chip issue out.
  • buffalonickelbuffalonickel Member Posts: 113
    I have a 94 Toyota pickup. Three of my spindles snapped off on one wheel last year. This all happened within a matter of hours because I noticed one of my lug nuts lying in the road in front of our house which prompted my inspecting the truck and grounding it until I took it into the dealer. The shop said that I must've torqued the nuts too tight. They recommended 80 ft.lbs.


    But...in my driving, fixing, and maintaining cars over 34 years THAT was the very first time I ever had that happen. I had the shop take all the studs out of that rim and replace all of them with new ones. Upon MY inspection of the studs, it appeared to me that the metal failed.


    None of the other wheels had the problem and I haven't had anymore problems since.


    My question is simple: how can one detect this problem before endangering everyone on the road? Are there some characteristics to look for?

  • joevirginiajoevirginia Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the response to my spindle complaint. However, I think you are describing your lug nuts failing. Spindles are the small front axles that are not ever known to fail. Lug nuts are not supposed to fail either but they do. And while that is very very serious, that failure is tad bit less serious than an axle snapping. It seems to me that when researching the spindle problem I found a recall for certain model yr toyota trucks for lug nuts. Also check out http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/. You can register your problem with the National Hiway Transportation Safety Admin and search their files also.
  • buffalonickelbuffalonickel Member Posts: 113
    I stand corrected.
    I assume that since you were out of warranty Toyota is leaving this to you to settle on your own accord?
  • sc0rpi0sc0rpi0 Member Posts: 897
    There is one simple way to avoid having stud problems: always torque the lugnuts yourself. Don't leave it to some idiot highschool dropout at the local Discount Tire to "torque" your lugs down with airtools, do it yourself, and you won't have any problems. 80lbs fo torque sounds good.
  • zipperc130zipperc130 Member Posts: 1
    Just bought a 03 taco V6 4x4 ext.cab. I have had two other vehicles with ABS. When the ABS kicks in it is quite violent both in pedal pulsing and pulsing noise(almost like a quiet machine gun). Just wondering if this was normal, on my durango more of just a pedal pulse with little or no noise. Thanks for the help!
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    Normal.
  • tkevinctkevinc Member Posts: 9
    I currently own an '02 Tacoma, Double Cab Prerunner. In reading the posts I have had nearly every rattle, molding, intial build quality problem listed here. The vehicle has been back to the dealer several times but the service dept seems to be rather dull. They can't resolve any of these problems. I noticed that many of you stated there were service bulletins related to your problems (especially the ever-present air bag rattle). The service dept I deal with must be waiting on their new carrier pigeons because they're not getting these bulletins or are just simply too stupid to read them. Does anyone know how I can get my hands on these bulletins so I can take them in and show these guys? If I have to maybe there will be enough info on them to repair some of things myself.
  • joevirginiajoevirginia Member Posts: 3
    Buffalo...you are correct that the Tacoma is out of warranty. The truck is a 98 with 63,000 miles on it. Was in great shape. Every engineer or a mechanic finds it unbeliveable that Toyota considers it normal wear and tear for the spindle to snap and the wheel, rotor, brakes, etc to fly off at 65 mph. My insurance has paid for the repairs and after determining in their opinion that it WAS a manufacturing defect is now going after Toyota for reimbursement. Meanwhile I am pursuing other options. My biggest disappointment is how Toyota handled this...just like a domestic car company.
  • buffalonickelbuffalonickel Member Posts: 113
    Subjugation doesn't always work. Your insurance company in going after this is setting a precedence for the "next" time. The good point is that this shouldn't affect your premiums. We had a Semi rear-ended a pickup on the highway and it "slingshot" into the parking lot to total our "parked" 93 Camry (it was empty when he hit it in the parking lot). I was covered by Farmers and the subjugation failed. The trucking company was self-insured and the adjuster they hired wanted to "cut" the Camry in two and weld a junkyard rear to the front. Farmers was angry with this guy and simply told me to not worry. They totalled the Camry SE and I (hang my head low on this move: bought an Explorer) They will be waiting for next time they deal with this clown.
  • jbh60jbh60 Member Posts: 3
    Anyone having problems with windshield cracks? My 03 Dcab w/500 miles took a hit from a small rock and cracked the windshield!
This discussion has been closed.