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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions
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Comments
This is a nationwide offroad club. You can get all info you want there. Beware, though, it's hard on your wallet, being in TTORA.
No problems with syncho rings on 2001 manuals, don't know where you got that from.
Check with www.tacomaterritory.com guys, we got a lot of people who know a lot about Tacos, they might help you diagnose the problem.
First, I put the truck in neutral and turned the ignition off, then with the brake applied turned the vehicle back on and attempted to shift into reverse. This didn't solve the problem, even after repeating several times. Next I tried to shift the four-wheel drive selector into various positions (4H, 2H, N, and 2L), but this didn't work either. Still no luck. The next approach was to operate a tiny little lever next to the shifter. According to the operating manual, this lever is designed to help a driver get the truck out of park and into drive, but my problem was just the opposite. Needless to say, using this lever had no effect. At this point, I had no choice but to keep driving forward on the remote mountain road hoping to find a spot to turn around in without the use of reverse.
After driving about a mile and periodically stopping to check the problem, reverse miraculously began to work, but not park was still broke. When I finally reached a turn-around in the road, I pulled over and began looking at the various fuses associated with the automatic transmission hoping to solve what seemed to be an electronic problem. Every fuse was intact. Lastly, after the truck sat for a couple of minutes with the engine off, I was able to shift the truck into park. This incident happened two days ago and the truck has shifted fine ever since.
When I arrived home after this incident, I called the local Toyota dealership and asked if they could fix the problem. The service manager's response was to ask me if I was depressing the brake pedal simultaneously while trying to shift into reverse, I said yes. Then he asked if the car was still causing me problems and I said no, it's working fine now. His final answer was that unless he could catch the truck in the act of preventing me from shifting into reverse or park, I'm going to have to wait to see if the problem repeats itself then call him to see if he can fix it.
Has anyone on this board heard of such a problem? I'm really nervous about getting back off the main road and having to deal with this problem again. If the problem flared up while I'm in the parking lot at Wal-Mart, that's really not that big of a deal. But what happens if I'm several miles from civilization and this problems shows up again? I'm really hoping that some of you have some clues as to what could be the source of this problem so I can give the service manager some direction.
Thank you.
Back in the early 80s I had a TransAm (those were the days) that bounced off its bottom on a parking lot bump. The impact slightly crushed the linkage and it had to be completely rebuilt. I haven't looked at the linkage on my Tacoma (which I just got), but many automatics have some sort of system of levers and such on the outside of the AT case that can be jammed by a rock or a branch or something in freak cases. That would explain why it works fine now.
FWIW.
I keep having water pooling up on the passenger side floor board everytime it rains. The first time the dealer ship replaced a gasket behind the firewall but the problem still exsits. does anybody have any suggestions
Adjusting that screw will do vertical adjustment.
How much heat does a new engine generate? break in period? Would this be the cause? Should I put in a 180F thermostat? What is the range of the temperature gauge corresponding to temperature in degrees? (ie middle is 180, 3/4 is 220, H is 240?)
I am concerned. thanks
The sound seems to come from the lower dashboard in 2 places - 1 is behind/to the right of the radio, and the other seems to come from the bottom right side of the glove box. Possibly something related to the airbag?
The sound isn't always consistent - I haven't found anything that always triggers it. I'll drive a few days without hearing it, then suddenly, it'll chatter unstoppably for minutes on end.
I appreciate any ideas any of you have. I've read through past postings and I'm wondering if anything new has come up.
Thanks,
Riddler
I lubed it up at all the zerk fittings and the noise goes away for a day or so and then comes back, tried several times. Seems worse when cold. I did neglect lubing it until 30k miles. Now has 39k. Joint seems tight and no excessive play. What could be causing this? Did I fry it buy not lubing it sooner?
Any advice appreciated,
Steve
'99 Tacoma 4x4 TRD 5-spd 4 cyl
Oil was changed at 2400 and 5800. The dealer did the last one; no idea what oil he put in but it's probably 5w30.
Should I be using a different oil than 5w30?? Is this even a problem?
Thanks for ideas.
(2) I have read all the post on the Air Bag compartment rattle that my truck and many others are having. I am taking back to the dealership this weekend, hopefully letting them know that it is just not my truck would help them out. Is there any thing else I need to know about this be fore this weekend?
(3)I have a pinging coming form my my engine while it is in idle. I have a 2002 V6 Tacoma and I have already taken it in once before and they told me that it was just wires in the engine bouncing around, but I know for a fact it's coming from the engine block.
I just bought a supercharger and plan to have it installed in a couple of weeks. I'd really like to have all these problems fixed before I do anything else to the truck. That's why I'd really like to know what the deal is with the air filter and MAF. Should I change it or leave it alone.
One last question. Does anyone out there know from experience or otherwise if it is a good idea to add headers and change my exhaust. If I should change my exhaust, should I go with the TRD cat back or a after market like Flowmaster.
I would really appreciate the advice.
Yosmany
Charger: have the dealership install it. That way it'll be covered under warranty. Headers are PITA to install by yourself, but they are nothing bad. Ditto for the exaust. If you install it at the dealership, they'll just cover it under warranty. TRD will just cost you a lot more than Flowmaster/Magnaflow. I had a shop put in magnaflow for $130 alltogether.
Going back to your response about he exhaust. You have a Magnaflow, right. What kind of performance increase have you seen on your truck? Also, do feel that Magnaflow is better that Flowmaster. The Flowmaster store was asking me if I was interested in replacing the entire exhaust system or just after the catalytic converter, basically the muffler. What do you think?
Do you use a after market filter? If you do, what steps do you take to maintain it?
Also you wrote the the headers are PITA, I'm sorry but I didn't understand what you meant what you meant by that.
Do you have a supercharger on your truck? If you do, how do you like it and what other modifications have you made?
Yosmany
As far as performance increase....I figure my truck is right around 200hp now: just the muffler and deckplate mod (basically, take the airbox and cut a hole infront of it, before the filter. It allows for much more air to go through). Look around on http://www.ttora-ne.com/newsite/main.htm (TTORA New England chapter) site, they may have dyno results for non-charged trucks with exaust, deckplate and airfilter mods. I know there was one done about a year ago.
I don't have a charger..it costs too damn much, and with the lead foot I have, it's the last thing I need. I hear it feels gggoooooooooddddd
I use Amsoil foam filter instead of KnN. It's same idea of using oil, but tests show (and this is a huge controversy) that Amsoil filters better. As for maintaining it.........I've had it in since day 1, for a year now, and in 22K miles I haven't replaced/oiled it. I would just pop it out after particular nasty offroad trips (dusty roads, etc), beat the dust off of it, pop it back in and go on. I'll be reoiling it when I do my 30K service.
Adding headers is a pain in the *** (PITA), that's the general consensus. Easier to have it done by the dealer, and you get the benefit of having it covered by warranty.
For the S/C I installed a tranny cooler since I have an Automatic and switched all fluids to sythetic in the entire drivetrain. I have had my S/C on for 20,000 miles and have had zero problems (knock on wood). Just make sure you use premium fuel, try to find 92 octane or higher if you can. I run a catback exhaust (Gibson), but you would be just fine with just the S/C because I didn't notice that big of a difference when I installed the exhaust.
If you have anymore questions just ask.
Riddler
It has been my experience that 3 things hurt mileage more than anything:
1. A lead foot - On a lonely straight away last nite I stomped on it and got up to 85 in a very short time and then slowed right back down, and the trip I was on took noticeably more gasoline to complete
2. Short trips - driving several 1.5 mile trips a day to class keep my mileage at an average of 17.5 when there are no long trips mixed in.
3. Sustained high speeds above, say, 70 mph - this doesn't hurt the mileage, just prevents it from being 22+.
Also make sure your tires have a decent amount of pressure in them. And I would highly recommend an aftermarket air filter. I had heard reports that they didn't help mileage at all, but I have seen the exact opposite.
Hope this helps guys.
hoganite11@yahoo.com
But...in my driving, fixing, and maintaining cars over 34 years THAT was the very first time I ever had that happen. I had the shop take all the studs out of that rim and replace all of them with new ones. Upon MY inspection of the studs, it appeared to me that the metal failed.
None of the other wheels had the problem and I haven't had anymore problems since.
My question is simple: how can one detect this problem before endangering everyone on the road? Are there some characteristics to look for?
I assume that since you were out of warranty Toyota is leaving this to you to settle on your own accord?