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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    FWIW this makes it sound like getting to the filters can be a real pain, at least on the older Troopers - http://www.outdoorwire.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=86&t=001216&p=


    Granted $169 sounds high. However, if you can avoid the hassle noted in the link, and potential pan gasket leaks, this may be a real bargain.


    In any event, different strokes for different folks and "Sometimes a man just has to know his own capabilites".


    Happy trooping to all.

  • duktrooperduktrooper Member Posts: 78
    Bluedevils...I've had 3 isuzu's all serviced by same dealer for over 8 yrs. Service/responsiveness from my dealer has always been excellent. Filter was replaced as was all the fluid. $169 may be somewhat high, but I KNOW it was done right. Gimme a break.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    duktrooper, I'm not sure what you mean by "gimme a break."

    I do not have a good relationship, or much of a relationship at all, with my dealer. Nor do I get the impression that they are particularly knowledgeable. Here in SE Michigan, there are few Isuzus, so the dealers just don't get that much experience with them. If I did think they were knowledgeable, I would be more willing to have the dealer do certain service work even
    though their prices are higher.

    I've been there about 5 times total in the 4 years we've owned Troopers (1 year on the '96 that was totaled and 2.5+ years on the current '98 that replaced it). Each time it was typically for a warranty item, and I tried to have 1 or 2 routine maintenance items (chassis lube, tire rotation, cooling system service, oil change, etc.) done at the same time. I gave them this business 1) simply to be nice and let them make a few bucks off me; 2) because I'm generally more comfortable with a dealer than a shop because they are more likely to know the vehicle and hopefully to do the work better/right. Unfortunately, they did nothing to impress me. E.g. rotated tires front to back. Yes, they rotated 'em. How do I know? Because when I checked tire pressure the next day, the fronts had 35 psi and the rears had 30, just the opposite of what Isuzu recommends. In other words, they didn't reset the tire pressure and they sent me on my way with what I consider to be a potentially hazardous handling situation.

    I'm glad you have an excellent dealer. If I did, I still don't think I would spend $169 for tranny service, but I understand your reasons for doing so. I think along the same lines, but I guess I'm not willing to pay up for quality work quite as much as you are.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Since the pan needs to be dropped to get the screen filter out and most of the fluid with it, $169 isn't that bad if they include the fluid and new gasket etc.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    duktrooper, the tranny filter is something that is replaced on your '99 Troop? In other words, it's not a permanent screen that never needs replacement?
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Perhaps an independent shop would charge closer to $169 than I thought.

    You are ALWAYS on these discussion boards! What else do you do?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    All day today :)

    Actually bought an electric impact wrench @ Sears :) Good fun :)

    Had to prep my subaru for auto-x tomorrow :)

    Also went to see the last night of lights @ WTC.

    -mike
  • cmunizcmuniz Member Posts: 604
    I've learned a lot by reading the above posts - the most important is to leave all drive train service to my dealer (good reputation for service) or to my local mechanic that has lots of experience with 4x4s and Isuzus. No way I would tackle that job without knowing how many fluid changes are required or where the reservoirs/plugs are for sure. I like my vehicle too much.
  • carrierecarriere Member Posts: 18
    According to your description and from what I have gathered from reading everyone else's post, you changed the transfer case/TOD system oil. Of course I have a '99 auto so I can not say for sure on your '98. On mine the drain/fill plugs where you use a ratchet minus the socket is indeed the transfer case. The shop manual does not spell these things out too well. Sure the manual specifically tells you how to take everything apart, but it does a very poor job of explaining the proper way to handle minor maintenance tasks (or maybe it does and I just can't find where). I shelled out the $150 specifically so I could perform all of the minor maintenance myself, without having to worry about the Isuzu service department charging me out the wazoo. Fortunately we have this forum where those knowledgeable can pick up where the shop manual may have left off. Having said that I want to thank ARMTDM, BREAKOR, and BEER47 for their suggestions on changing the A/T fluid, particularly the part of changing the rubber gasket....the shop manual makes no mention of a the A/T drain/fill plug gasket. Oh and from post 1589 I'm a he.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    It's very disappointing to hear that the shop manual does not seem to explain how to do minor maintenance stuff. That's the main reason I've been planning to buy one.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Here is a simple way to tell the TOD unit from the AT. The TOD transfer case is roughly in the middle of the vehicle, but IS OFFSET FROM THE CENTER LINE toward the passenger side. It is protected by a rock shield that sticks down a little. The transmission is of course directly in line with the engine on the centerline. The TOD transfer case is offset to feed power to the front driveshaft.
  • viktoria_rviktoria_r Member Posts: 103
    Thanks for replies to everyone. it's a shame that my Trooper is acting up this way. I think next time something happens I will take it up with Isuzu of America (they call me after every visit to the dealer to ask how was my experience LOL). I understand that it will not fall under lemon law, but when I bought it it only had 8.9K miles on it and I always performed all recomended service/maintenance. Too bad I do not feel that we can rely on it anymore, otherwise the vehicle fit our needs just fine...
  • coop18coop18 Member Posts: 4
    I recently had the rear diff. oil replaced in my 00' troop by a local shop. I gather that few troops come through the shop - since they had to look up the VIN and confirm whether troops have a LSD (Im mechanically challanged - but as I understand it, LSD's require special additives/lubrication). They also lifted the rear wheels and did the "spin test" to check for an LSD - but it didnt respond like one would expect (Rotate one wheel and the other should rotate CCW if LSD?? - I always get this mixed up). I realize the "spin" is a subjective test - but just wondering if others have tried this - how do you know if its functioning 'normally'.

    thanks
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    There is a plate inside the engine compartment on the firewall. I believe it has a "G80" if your vehicle has a LSD. If not, then it has something else. Paisan, can probably correct my guess on the number, but that is the quickest and fastest way to determine whether you have an LSD or not.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    But if you have an '00 Trooper it has an LSD in it. I believe all Troopers starting in 99 or 98 have rear LSDs.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    No doubt a tag or VIN code is the best indication.

    The shop test for the presence of a LSD is to jack up the rear with the tranny in neutral. If you manually spin one wheel and the other wheel spins in the opposite direction you have an open diff. If the other wheel spins the same direction you have a LSD.

    I don't know how to really check for the proper operation in use. Some people have forgot to add the limited slip additive when doing a gear oil change. They reported odd noises from the diff.

    Click and Clack on this site(http://cartalk.cars.com/Columns/Archive/1993/January/08.html) proposed the following - Put the truck in your garage and put it in two-wheel-drive. Then pour a quart of Felipo Berrio Extra Virgin Olive Oil (make sure it's Extra Virgin) under the right rear wheel.

    Ray: Next, have your boyfriend step on the gas. If the wheel just spins, you don't have locking differential. If, on the other hand, the truck shoots forward into the bicycles, the storm windows, and the old tires, then you do have locking differential. Congratulations
  • cknottcknott Member Posts: 61
    Please look at the VIN identification plate located on the front side of the fire-wall. If you open the engine hood, look straight back, and you should see a small plate stamped on to the body (firewall) directly behind and next to the engine. If you see the three digit code, G80, then you have a limited slip differential. If you do not see the code, G80, then you have an open differential.

    Beginning in MY2000, the limited slip differential was not standard on all Troopers. It was optional on 2wd's and some 4wd's.

    The "lift the wheels, check for rotation method" will not work for this type of differential. It is designed just like an open differential, but with clutches between the differential side gears and the case. Even so, both differentials (open and limited slip) should rotate in the same manner. For example, if the transmission is in park, and the right wheel is rotated in a forward direction, the left wheel will rotate in the opposite direction.

    If you have a limited slip differential, you will need the additive, if you do not have the limited slip differential, you do not need the additive.

    I will not go into testing the limited slip differential at this time.

    I hope this helps.

    Chad
  • cknottcknott Member Posts: 61
    Breakor,

    The shop test method you descibed to test the LSD in our Troopers may not work.

    That method will work for locking differentials. Locking differentials are designed and function in a dramatically different way compared to limited slip diffentials.

    I do not believe the frictional characteristics of the limited slip will trump the frictional characteristics of the driveshaft without any preload on the side gears, but I could be wrong.

    I have noticed that our Troopers have a very low preload on the clutches. This may fool the mechanic into thinking that the differential is an open differential.

    It is recommended to verify the VIN plate on the firewall first.

    Chad
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Like you noted you could be wrong. I think you are, then again you are doing your test with the car in park which seems odd to me. Try the last paragraph of the following which supports my test - http://www.differentials.com/faq.html

    In any event we both agree that the manufacturer's label is the real test.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I thought in 2000 they started putting in LSD across the board. Maybe I'm on crack.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Per my sales brochures in 98 a rear LSD was optional on the S model and included on the other 2 levels. In 99 it was standard on all models. In 00 it was standard on all but the 2wd S models.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Ah ha. Gotcha. Yeah so basically in 2000 99% of the Troopers out there have LSDs.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    A couple days ago I noticed the gap between the top of the front bumper and the bottom of the body on our 98 Trooper (about level with the top of the tires) was larger on the driver side than the passenger side. In case that didn't describe it very well, this is the gap in the front fender flare. I'd say the gap is almost a full inch on the driver side and probably half that on passenger side.

    I took a very quick look underneath for any obvious bolts that would tighten things up but didn't notice any.

    I'm not sure if this is time-induced sag, or if me or my wife bumped something and caused the problem.

    Anybody have any ideas on what/where to check? Anyone ever had a similar problem with their Trooper?
  • cknottcknott Member Posts: 61
    Breakor,

    Thanks for your comments. For the record, I did jack the rear tires up, in neutral, and both tires rotated in the same direction. I did place the transmission in park and could get both wheels to travel in opposite directions, however, I could feel the resistance of the clutches in the differential. If the differential had a locker, and the transmission was in park, I would only be able to rotate one wheel a partial turn, and then the other wheel would lock with it, preventing me from further turning the wheel (applicable to lockers such as Detroit, Detroit EZ, Detroit soft, and lock-right).

    My limited slip comments were based on the design of the limited slip used in the Trooper. If the clutches did not have alot of pre-load or wore worn out, the tires could rotate in opposite directions even with the transmission in neutral. This would cause the mechanic to think that the differential did not have the limited slip, and as a result, the mechanic would not install the "additive".

    The Trooper limited slip design is a copy of Dana's trac-loc/power-loc design which does not in fact lock anything.

    Chad
  • ilitilit Member Posts: 71
    About a month ago, I hit another big SUV in front of me at about 5mph or less causing the bumper tilting up.
    No damage can be found, my T still runs straight! I realigned the bumper myself. There are 2 bolts (1/2 or 5/8" dia whose head fit a 17mm hex wrench) on each side where the bumper brackets are mounted to the frame. These brackets like 4" high C beams are located about a foot from each side. They are easy to locate!
  • ilitilit Member Posts: 71
    BTW, fortunately no bodies got hurt or injured!
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    ilit, thanks for the info. I'll try to realign the bumper and post back if I have any more questions.
  • ilitilit Member Posts: 71
    I torqued those bolts to 55 lb-in.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Thanks you the field test report and other differential info.
  • dokolenkodokolenko Member Posts: 7
    I own 1995 Trooper 3.2 SOHC engine. I noticed oil in my spark plug tubes. What is the fix for this? How much should it cost? Is it a difficult repair?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    You mean around where the spark plug wires get inserted over the plugs themselves? It is probably spilt oil and can be cleaned with a rag.

    -mike
  • fiveharpersfiveharpers Member Posts: 53
    I had that happen recently because my oil cap has a gasket that fell off when checking the oil. I replaced the gasket and corrected the problem. I ordered the gasket from St Charles Isuzu.
  • wheels13wheels13 Member Posts: 51
    Had the same problem in my 1992 Trooper with the 3.2 engine. Valve cover was loose
  • coop18coop18 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the many great comments on LSDs -- I learned a lot. Particularly the info re: low preload on trooper clutches which explains the mechanics spin results. I too thought that all 99-00 troops came with LSDs (but checked the VIN code on mine to confirm). I guess i dont have enough offroad experience in different 4x4s to know if posi trac systems are that much better than a standard open diff. systems when it comes to offroad performance etc. - but as a consumer, I'd hate think I bought a vehicle that came std with a rear LSD, and later found out I had one of the few that didnt..? Regardless, still love these trucks.

    thanks again for the info.
  • spirollispirolli Member Posts: 50
    Hello all. Long time since my last post. I just past the 30k mark. My 2000 Trooper is scheduled in for maintenance this coming Monday. The dealer is telling me that it will most likely cost me around $600 for the 30k mile scheduled maintenance. Can't wait to get that bill.

    I did order some touch up paint from my dealer's parts department about 1 month ago. They told me that Isuzu sells the touch up paint in q=3. It was cheap, around $13 with shipping and all. I tried to touch up some spots on my fender flares where the paint was chipped. I have the Limited edition Troop, so the fender flares are the same color as the truck. Moonmist Gray Mica. For some reason, the touch up paint they sent me hardly matches. It dried to a dark silver color. It looks like [non-permissible content removed]. When the paint chips on the fender flares, it exposes the pitch black color of the fender flare. I am thinking that due to the black color of the flare, it's making it difficult to match the appropriate color. Despite the fact that I have hit it with several coats. Apparently, it is the right color touch up paint. They checked it against my VIN. I can't figure out what it's so off in terms of a match. The guy who details my truck tried to find a paint number. He said that on all cars/trucks, they post the paint# either on the door frame or under the hood. Apparently, you can take this number into any body shop and they should be able to make you up a can of touch up. However, there is no paint number on my truck, at least no where that we could find. Any ideas on where to find the paint number ?

    I'll mention it to the dealer when I drop off my truck Monday morning.

    Steve
  • jadeljadel Member Posts: 2
    How can i find out about: 1. recall's on 1997,2. timing belt replacement intervals,3.long term problems with 1997 models. Son is considering a 1997 with 100,000 miles already on the odometer.It is in good condition,hoping that all the service records are up to date. Thanks
  • vivayovivayo Member Posts: 32
    Is it just coincedental that Isuzu uses the same code for the Trooper's LSD that Chevy/GMC
    use for the full size pickup (including the Heavy Duty models) LSDs? I know our auto trans is a GM product - is the LSD (an Eaton product) also supplied by GM?
    FWIW, there's a discussion right now over at thedieselpage dot com about the correct lube for the GM G80.
    Charlie
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    spirolli, our 98 Trooper is Red Rock Mica (dark red) monotone. The touchup paint for that color is not a perfect match either. You may get better results by spot-touching some primer before applying the paint. On the rear bumper and the fender flares, the paint doesn't seem to stick very well.

    Next time I touch up the Trooper, I will probably try some primer first then do the touchup paint.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I don't know for sure, but I believe the trooper uses the Isuzu 'Corporate' and I think GM has a 'corporate' model?
  • carrierecarriere Member Posts: 18
    I finally broke down and took my Trooper to the dealer service department for some minor repairs...I almost feel like I am missing part of my family. My front mud flaps are being replaced, as they were destroyed from too much off-roading over the past 3 years. I am also getting one of my fog lights replaced. I would like to get my running boards replaced but the dealer wants $411 and that does not include installation (current running boards are not the true Isuzu boards, but rather some cheap after-market pieces of !#*%) I'll pass. Inquired about a transmission fluid change and I was quoted $86. This does not include the filter change. I'll probably do this myself from the information that I have gathered from all of the earlier post.

    As far as the limited slip differential is concerned, I used approximately 12 oz's of TRANS X POSI-TRAC for the limited slip additive. My differential doesn't make a sound (or if it does I can not hear it over the constant hum of my Buck Shot Mudder tires). I haven't been in the mud since I changed the differential oil but it should work as good as new.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    If you are interested I have a set of heavy-duty rocker bars that do dual duty as side steps. I haven't had a chance to get em welded on yet, bu you can jack the car on these. E-mail me

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Get a quote from St. Charles Isuzu. They sell everything 15% off manufacturers list price. I bought the black Isuzu side steps from them, about $280 (a couple years ago). I think the running boards were slightly more -- low 300s. If I can install these myself, anybody can!

    P.S. St. Charles has free UPS shipping.

    I think the info is 800.727.8066 and www.stcharlesauto.com.

    I've got an Isuzu parts coupon at home. Don't remember how much the discount is, but if you're interested I could mail it to you. It's good through 12/31/02.
  • cknottcknott Member Posts: 61
    Just FYI for all the Trooper owners:

    I needed to replace the battery in the Trooper last night.

    My Trooper is a 99 model with a July 1999 build date. It was purchased new in February 2000 with around ~20 miles.

    The battery was made in Japan by the "FB" Group some part of Furukawa limited? I could not find a build date of the battery.

    So far so good. The trooper got my wife home and then let us know the battery was nearly dead. It appears that one of the cells in the battery was weak/broken/failed.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    While I haven't had this problem my buddy had to replace his battery after about 13 months of ownership on his 00 Trooper LS. I had to do it on my Rodeo @ about the 24 month time frame. Luckily it's pretty easy and cheap to do.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    We got about 2-1/2years out of our factory battery.

    FWIW I only noticed a slight hesitation when starting one time. The next time the battery was down to about 11 volts and would not crank the car.

    I guess these new fangled cars are so good at controlling themselves that they only need a marginal spark to fire up and run off the alternator. You can hit that lower battery voltage (i.e. amperage) limit with little or no warning. FWIW I now routinely check my battery voltage with every oil change. Yes, I know to do a real check I would have to do an amperage load check. However, I am hoping that my voltage only reading on a non-running vehicle will also tend to tell the story.
  • cknottcknott Member Posts: 61
    Breakor,

    I think my wife's experience and your experience are very similar. I do not believe she could distinguish a "slight" hesitation in starting, however, at home the battery read around 10.4 volts. Upon an attempt to start, I heard the "click..click..click" sound, the sound depicting not enough current to overcome the spring in the solenoid, preventing current from getting to the starter motor. Depending on how you calculate the age of the battery, ours lastest around 2 1/2 years as well.

    $64.16 later with a 9 year warranty, 3 year free replacement, and off we go.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Good reminder. As far as I know, our 98 Troop is still on the factory battery. It's been in service about 3.5 years. The first year it was a corporate Isuzu vehicle. I assume the battery wasn't replaced during that time. Since we've had the truck, we have not replaced the battery.

    I suppose getting almost 4 years out of an automotive battery is pretty good.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    The other day, I was able to remove the inner plastic cylinder-type thing in the P/S reservoir on our 98 Trooper. Used a basic pliers, grabbed the edge and twisted while pulling up. It comes out with moderate pressure; no need to reef on it.

    This allowed me to drain 9 fluid ounces of fluid from the reservoir. I added about 8 fl. oz. of Mobil 1 ATF (Dexron III compatible)-- the reservoir was slightly above Max line before drain, so 8 fl oz filled it to Max. The capacity is 1.0 or 1.1 qts-- don't remember which-- so I got about 1/4 of the old fluid out.

    General question on this procedure, not just on the Trooper: If I do this again, will I be draining out the same fluid that I added, or does the P/S fluid in the reservoir circulate through the system? I'd like to do this procedure a couple more times, to increase the percentage of fluid that has been replaced. But it would be a waste of time if I was just replacing the new fluid that was just added.
  • spirollispirolli Member Posts: 50
    Well the bill for the 30k Scheduled Maintenance on my 2000 Trooper came to $614. It didn't require any additional parts like brake's, etc. Thank God. I went over the list of what all was done and did a tally as if I would have had all the items done separately. I was off by about $100 but could find pricing for things like "Lube Key Lock Cylinder", "Change front and rear axle oil", "Lube front & rear propeller shaft and flange torque". I assume that accounted for the extra $100 I was off by.

    The dealer did determine that Isuzu sent them the wrong touch up paint for my car. They are sending me out the correct touch up paint. I probably take bluedevils advice and hit the spots with some primer prior to painting with the touch up.

    You are certainly correct about the paint not sticking to the wheel wells and fender flares on the mono-tone colored Troopers. In fact, my dealer repainted all the fender flares for me last year, under warranty, cause they were chipped so badly. Of course, that had a lot to do with me off-roading on rock covered mountain roads in Potter County, PA. But who's telling.

    Steve
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    spirolli, I'd consider yourself lucky. I would not expect a dealer to repaint the fender flares just because they are all chipped. To me, this is normal wear and tear and even though the fender flares aren't as chip-resistant as they should be, I wouldn't expect the dealer to bail you out by covering it under warranty.

    Are you pleased with your dealer overall?
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