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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • cwmosercwmoser Member Posts: 227
    Stopped at the local Sams to get a quote on some tires. They recommended the Michlen LT's at $600 total price for 4 tires for 265x70x16. When the salesman check his guidelines, he said that he could not install that size on my Trooper. He said the tire would be no wider, just taller. Is this true?

    What I am looking for is a tire size that is wider and approximately the same height. This ratio of height to width is confusing.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I got 265/70R16 Bridgestone Dueler's from a Firestone place. No hassle, no papers to sign about not going with a non-standard size. They told me that the recommended size is 245/70R16...but we also talked about the 265/65 which is the LT series...this guy wanted my business and was happy to help.

    The 265/70R16 on my increased the ride height by about 5/8 of an inch and the width about the same. If you go to the Bridgestone site, they have a chart that not only includes tire diameters, but also the loaded radius, which is significantly less than 1/2 the diameter. That is a good way to judge height increases. You should check the tire sites, each tire has different widths, since the 265 is one edge of the tread to another, if there is a wrap around of tread, the width of tread is much more than width of tire. Once again read the tire sites, look at the tires in person and bring a flexible tape measure.

    I think 265/70 is a really cool size, and makes the truck look really good. As soon as I get mine back from the shop...(ugh, 3 weeks so far this month on the same problem, I am not going to swear at them until the problem is fixed, but after that they will get an earful)...I will take some shots and get them on the web.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    Unfortunately you can't get exactly the same height but wider on a 16" Trooper rim. The standard 245/70 could in theory be the same height as a 265/65, but the latter simply doesn't seem to exist in an A/T type tyre. Probably for good reason.

    Simple way to work it out is that the sidewall height on a 245/70 is 70% of 245mm, or 171.5mm. A 255/70 would be 70% of 255, or 178.5mm. Therefore the difference in sidewall height would be 7mm. Double this to get the difference in overall diameter. This is general guide only, and even same size tyres in different brands and models will have slight variations.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I have to add this to the Isuzu-suvs.com page


    http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html


    Best calculator out there.


    -mike

  • cwmosercwmoser Member Posts: 227
    Regarding how to decipher a tyre say 245x70x16, is the "sidewall" parameter the width from sidewall to sidewall? In other words, a rough approximation of the tread width?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    No sidewall is the height from the edge of the rim to the ground.

    245 = width of tire
    70 = 245*.70 = height of sidewall
    16 = diameter of the rim

    Overall height of tire = 16+(70*245)(conversion of mm to inches)

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Paisan is correct regarding the numbers and what they mean. However the calculation is diameter, and by comparing diameters you can pretty much judge how much higher one tire will be over the other, but the actual height of the tire.

    Loaded radius is different, a 245/70R16 height, from the ground up is less. The bottom radius is something like 13.2", while the top radius is 14.75" for a height of 27.95", where the actual diameter is roughly 29.5". Again, you can find loaded radius measurements at a lot of tire web sites.

    Comparing diameter to diameter is pretty good to roughly figure out how much taller a tire is, but not necessarily what will fit...for example, I was very afraid that a 265/75 wouldn't fit because its diameter is 31.6", however its actual height is only 30.5".
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yep it's easier to compare tire to tire via the diameter because the loaded height will vary depending on load, and some manufacturers don't have the loaded height available.

    265-75 would definitely fit w/o rubbing there are TONS of people running them.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    In a 245/70/16 tire, the 245 is 245 millimeters. This is the width of the tire. The 70 means that the sidewall height is 70% of the width. E.g. 245 mm x 70% 171.5 mm. The 16 is diameter, in inches.
  • cwmosercwmoser Member Posts: 227
    Any opinions on 255x65x16 tires for a 1999 Trooper? There is a sale locally and a set of 4 Bridgestone Dueler HT's can be purchased for $340.00 installed. Is this a good price and what do you think about this size tire? The tire calculator shows not much speedometer change.

    Also, the Michelin LT's are $444/set of 4 installed.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    That puts more rubber on the road which is nice, but you'll be giving up an AT tire for an HT tire. If you don't off-road or snow drive often it shouldn't cause any issues.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    a pretty good price for a fairly sporty (for an SUV) tire.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    You shouldn't need to replace the spare either. Those are close to stock height, actually slightly less...depending on make, tread, etc. The price sounds good too. I would double check with tirerack.com, they seem to have the best prices going.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I never replace my spare even with bigger tires. Since I'd have to get the tire replaced if it is dead, it's worth the gamble IMHO.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I worry about driving home on one tire that is 1/2" shorter? Especially while on vacation. I figure $100 now will save me huge if I was to wreck a tire anywhere not close to a shop that was open.

    I guess it is what you are comfortable with. On Nantucket, it would cost a lot to get a tire replaced, and could negatively impact my vacation, so for me it's worth it.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm usually near the interstates when I travel so it's not so much an issue. I would have no problem putting my spare on the front of my truck if I had to though. Also being single I don't have the family issues to deal with if my vacation is delayed etc.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    changing a tire is a last resort. I have 2 cans of fix-a-flat on me, and AAA ready. It is a real pain to change a tire on the truck, even with a hydaulic jack and stands.

    When we first got the truck, I showed my wife where the jack was, how to operate it, etc. After rotating the tires myself, I realized, she would not be capable of changing one under ideal situations, let alone the side of a road somewhere. Now I just make sure she keeps the cell phone charged.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I just did the brakes on the rear and my small floor jack that I carry in my truck barely is high enough to lift it.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I have had 2 tire guys tell me to only use fix-a-flat as a last resort. They told me it makes a really large mess inside the tire and is a major pain to clean out. This is especially true if left in there for any extended period of time. While I cannot confirm this from personal experience it does seem to make intuitive sense that a bunch of goo inside the tire is not a long-term good thing.

    FWIW I carry the stuff myself just in case as well as a tire pump to fully repressurize the tire. I agree that changing a tire is never an ideal option. However, I personally would always prefer to go that route first. That being said, I can envision circumstances where I would use the stuff or even drive on and damage the rim just to get out of the wrong place at the wrong time. I certainly agree that its use is ALWAYS preferable to running the risk that a loved one could get hurt while changing a tire.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Primarily I would be using it offroad. Even to get to a spot to then put the spare on. This would also ensure that when swapped with the spare, I would still then have at least a minimally functional spare.
  • drmpdrmp Member Posts: 187
    It's so damn hard to change a flat using the factory jack. Now I have a floor jack always tucked at the back.
  • emiuraemiura Member Posts: 59
    I carry Safety Seal kit for plugging punctures. When I got a sidewall cut, two plugs stopped the leak and I could drive safety back to camp. You'd also need a compressor to inflate tires, but this is much easier than changing tires on trail.


    http://www.sunperformance.com/SSKOTR.gif


    ...Eiji...

  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    What kinds of things should be done to prolong the life of a vehicle's A/C system? Our 98 Trooper has about 4 years under its belt and I'd like to make sure I'm doing the proper things to minimize the chances of a catastrophic failure (e.g. compressor goes bad) in the A/C system.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    with A/C (default) once a month during the winter to keep it lubricated.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I try to run the A/C occasionally even in the non-summer months, but what other maintenance should I have a shop do? Is there a standard "A/C system service" or something that should be done every x years or xx,00 miles?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    None that I know of. Any kind of A/C maintenance will be snake oil sold to you. The only other item I could think of is to make sure your radiator/AC condenser is clear of dirt and other foreign materials, the better it can cool the AC gas, the less your compressor has to work. Adding an additional cooling fan can also pro-long the life of your AC system as well.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    The A/C in our '98 Trooper (65k miles) doesn't seem quite as cool these days as it used to be. Maybe I was just really warm that day; I'll have to doublecheck.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Is there a belt that could need tigtenening and/or replacing? That is one possible maintenance item, however without any abnormal noise I wouldn't think it would need adjustment. Or is the fan electric?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Isn't it the same belt that runs the I-run everything belt?

    Mine doesn't have the electric fan in the front of the condenser so I dunno. I may pick one up eventually and install it just for extra security.

    -mike
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    There is a maintenance routine for airconditioning.

    The receiver/drier needs to be replaced periodically. This is the canister shaped thing with a sight glass on top that is located behind the grille.

    As this means opening the system, the gas has to be evacuated and then re-loaded. At this time, some oil is added to the gas system so as to keep seals and other components lubricated.

    The system is also pressure tested to ensure that there are no gas leaks.

    Every few years is adequate. However, our car is nearly 3 years old and we haven't done one yet. Might get one done before this (southern hemisphere) summer. In Australia, they are about $150 or so.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Thanks for the info. I'm not familiar with a couple of the terms you used, but I plan to call a couple shops and see what A/C maintenance they recommend for vehicles that are several years old.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Speaking of A/C...I noticed yesterday that my A/C makes a noise much like a CD player spinning up. This happens when we come to a stop...the car has only been running for 15 minutes at this point?

    My wife thinks it has been happening for a while, maybe it is just because I had the radio off I noticed it? Sounds like the compressor releasing pressure or something. Anyone else notice this?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Mine makes a horrible noise at idle if the pulley is dirty. It only happens at idle and if you clean it with a spray it's fine afterward. Could be the same noise.

    -mike
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Here it's about $150US for the evacuation and replacement of the gas alone.

    -mike
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    Don't forget, I'm talking $AUS.

    You have to wonder how they justify $150US for a gas recharge. That's $300AUS!!!!
  • radman6radman6 Member Posts: 81
    Some years back the US became very concerned about freon released in the atmosphere contributing to depletion of the ozone layer. All the shops had to tool up with machines that recovered and recycled freon. The cost went up significantly at that point. Newer more environmentally friendly versions of freon were introduced. The cost of earlier versions of freon also went up significantly as the US began to phase it out. R-12 in particular is pretty expensive now. Now it's like highway robbery to get your AC system serviced.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    All the tree-hugging liberals who drive gas guzzling SUVs :(

    -mike
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    Nothing is released into the atmosphere here, and we are also using the ozone friendlier refrigerants. Has been the case since about the early 90s. So our shops are tooled up for that too.

    Before the change, an air-con service cost about $50 at any auto-electrician. So the cost here tripled.

    I think you guys are being taken for a ride under the guise of environmental concern.
  • fiveharpersfiveharpers Member Posts: 53
    Capitalism at its finest
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Reviewing the steering column work they did on my truck, I noticed that I am missing 3 of the clips that hold the vinyl flaps in the wheel wells in place. Any ideas what could be used to replace them? (I know going back to the dealer...but they are too much hassle for what its worth)
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    If you are talking about the front mudflaps, my understanding is the fasteners are just basically pop rivets. Of course the ones from the dealer are about 30 times more expensive than generic, but you probably would have to paint the generic ones.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    not the mud flaps, these vinyl dividers sit between the engine and the wheel well.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I would use zip ties? one of mine always flaps around the sway bar and I have to put the bottome part back behind it.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I was thinking about using those? I guess I will go to sears and the autozone tomorrow and see what they have, if not then I will try zip ties.
  • keepontroopinkeepontroopin Member Posts: 297
    Lowes should sell pop ins that will fit the area you are talking about. They are found in the specialty hardware section with all the other nuts and bolts.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Today I noticed the CEL is on--solid, not blinking. Must have happened this morning while I was driving or last night while wife was driving truck.

    Anybody ever go to AutoZone or another auto parts store that advertises a free diagnostic check if your CEL is on? I'd like to do that before paying a shop or a dealer an hour's labor to hook it up to the scan tool and give me the trouble codes.

    I had a CEL probably 3 months ago. Truck was running fine, so I disconnected battery for an hour, reconnected, and problem was "solved."

    Truck still seems to be running fine right now-- 65,8xx miles on our 98 Troop, so it's out of powertrain warranty.

    Does a loose gas cap usually throw a solid or a blinking CEL? I gassed up 2 days ago, so maybe that's the problem. At that fillup, I added 2 16 fl. oz. bottles of Chevron's ProGard fuel system cleaner. I doubt this has anything to do with the CEL, but I thought it might. This stuff has less active ingredients than the Chevron Techron, so I don't think I did any harm by putting in 2 bottles. The label basically calls for 1 fl. oz. per gallon of fuel being added. I added about 19 gallons of fuel with the 2 bottles.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    The solid CEL is for any emissions problem. I had it solid on when my EGR valve went bad, but then it went off before I could bring it to a dealer. Eventually they pulled the code when I had it fixed. I recently had a CEL on and luckily my buddy with his pocket-logger palm-OBDII diagnotic tool was able to see that it was the evaporation system failing. he reset it and it bounced back on, sure enough I go and tightent he cap, and bam gone. That was 3K miles ago and no problems since.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I have a Palm Pilot.
  • cwmosercwmoser Member Posts: 227
    I had the solid Check Engine Light a couple months ago -- gas cap was loose.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    How did your gas-cap-induced CELs go away? I removed the gas cap today and re-tightened, then started and drove the Trooper for 15-20 miles. CEL stayed on. I shut the engine off a couple times and restarted during the trip but that didn't help.
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