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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Sounds like typical Battery problems. I've seen where a dead battery could cause those problem. Glad it's worked out hopefully that's the only problem.

    -mike
  • sdavitosdavito Member Posts: 71
    Some newer cars will run rough, or even die if the battery is weak. Unlike much older cars that could have their battery removed once started.

    David
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    That is what I expected...to be able to pull the battery out while running without a problem? I am not sure if all of the stalling I have experienced over the last month is battery related, but it seems like it. It may have been causing a short in the electrical system?

    Paisan...me too, I hope this will resolve my recent issues. I am glad it finally died in front of my house, and not somewhere on the road. Thanks.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I didn't check the dipstick the day I changed the oil but did check the next day. Maybe I'm dumb, but I don't see the problem in that. I mean, what could be wrong after the specified amount is added?

    Let's say you pour in 5 quarts during an oil & filter change. You finish up, start the engine and let it run for a few seconds, and shut it off. How soon will the oil actually travel to its normal resting place anyway? My impression was that the dipstick may not show Full right after a change - i.e., you need to run the engine for several minutes and let the oil settle or whatever.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Just that's what i've always done ever since I started doing oil changes. Never failed me yet. Checking is a good thing, never hurts to check.

    :)

    -mike
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    Bluedevils ... It doesn't take that long for the new oil to make its way to the sump. If you change the filter, add the oil, run the engine for a minute to fill the filter, turn off and wait a few minutes then take a reading with the dipstick (wipe it first, then dip).

    5 minutes will be more than adequate to allow everything to settle down.
  • drmperaltadrmperalta Member Posts: 58
    Hi,

    I am interested on the upgrade. My '99 Passport is pinging all the time unless I use techron (every 3k miles) or use special grade fuel. That's enough for me. Unfortunately, my warranty already ran out. What is done in the upgrade? How much will I have to spend? Thank you very much in adbvance.

    Mark
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    drmperalta....I'm in the wrong hemisphere to comment on the anti-pinging program. However you state that it goes away when techron is added every 3k miles.

    Pinging can also be brought on by dirty injectors. The techron may be cleaning them up to a state where the pinging goes away for a while but they soon get deposits building up again. It may be worth checking whether they need an "off car" cleaning.

    It's good practice to run an injector treatment through every 5000kms (or 3000 miles) to keep the injectors clean anyway.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    My 97 Rodeo 3.2 L V6 takes 5 quarts 16 ounces of oil at a change per the manual. This brings the dipstick up to slightly oiver the full mark.

    Your manual says 5 quarts?
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    but I'm pretty sure the manual does specify 5.0 quarts. This is on a 98 Trooper, which has the 3.5L V6 - similar to the 3.2L in a 97 Rodeo, but not exactly the same.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    is a SOHC not a DOHC like the 3.5 in the Trooper. the 3.5 Trooper engine is more like the DOHC 3.2 in the 98->02 Rodeos.

    -mike
  • ostazostaz Member Posts: 80
    A few days ago, I posted a msg. about my 99 Trooper having a tough time starting, idling rough, fluctuate between 300 to 2000 RPM, and kills when I slow down or stop. The consensus was it is the gasket. I took to the shop today, and it was the fuel pressure regulator (in an earlier post, some of you troopers suggested that too).

    The dealer charged me $88 for the part and $184 for labor $*!(*!_@#

    Thanks for all the input
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Shouldn't that have been under warranty? The 99 have a 5/60K mile warranty on most major components?
  • ostazostaz Member Posts: 80
    The fuel pressure regulator wasn't covered. Had it been the gasket, it would have been covered.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    I have a 99 Trooper, and I had my fuel pressure regulator repaired under warranty earlier this year. I am at 47K miles right now. Is your mileage higher than mine to take you out of warranty?

    FWIW my symptoms were different than yours, it would take a long crank to start, then run fine. Your symptoms still definitely remind me of the IM gasket problem, which I have had twice.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Bluedevils wrote - "I didn't check the dipstick the day I changed the oil but did check the next day. Maybe I'm dumb, but I don't see the problem in that. I mean, what could be wrong after the specified amount is added?"

    Granted nothing could possibly be wrong with adding the right amount of oil back and 5 qts is the right amount. However, the problems come into play when you get sidetracked or confused. For example, did you really add 5 qts or did you miss one? Was that a big 5qt jug or the standard 1-gallon size? Did you put in only 4qts because that is what the OTHER family car takes? etc. Thus, the purpose of checking when you are done is simply a fail safe move.

    As to when to check, I have noted that it can take over 30 minutes to get the last 1/2pt or so of oil to drain from a warm 3.5l engine. Thus, you can get slightly low dipstick readings on even a warm engine as all the oil has yet to make it to the pan.
  • ostazostaz Member Posts: 80
    Both Isuzu and the dealer told me it is not covered. The truck has 39k miles
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Paisan has a link to the warranty on his site. That is the best place to check.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I don't believe I became sidetracked or confused in this case, but your point is valid and is good advice.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    It says the fuel pump is covered...I don't know about the regulator. It is probably a subjective decision, that went against you.

    However, I would gladly pay to have my car fixed than hear...we couldn't find anything.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Were you beyond 36 months? The general warranty is 3 years or 50K miles. I was still under 3 years, so it wasn't an issue.

    BUT even if you were, the Powertrain Warranty is 5 years/60K miles. It specifically lists "Fuel Pump" and "Gasoline Fuel Injection Equipment". IMO the fuel pressure regulator is an integral part of the fuel delivery system, and therefore an integral part of the powertrain, and also could be construed to be part of the "Gasoline Fuel Injection Equipment", and therefore should be included in the Powertrain warranty.

    I mean, if it's not part of the powertrain, what is it part of?
    Suspension? No. (actually, most suspension parts are covered under the Powertrain Warranty)
    Electrical? No.
    Accessories? No.
    Body? No.
    Climate control? No.
    Tires/belts/hoses? No.
    Interior? No.

    Everything that's left is the "powertrain", including the fuel pressure regulator.

    Oh well, I'll get off my soapbox now.
  • ostazostaz Member Posts: 80
    Good points sds2. I wonder now if I should go back to the dealer and dispute the charges. The truck was beyond 36 month (by 4 days).
    But to you point, the regulator IS part of the fuel delivery system.

    Thanks guys
  • mkayemkaye Member Posts: 184
    In case the dealer TOLD you "Isuzu" said no on the warranty, I wouldn't believe the dealer. Ask to speak to or get the area reps. contact information and speak with them directly.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Call Isuzu Customer Service yourself! and bring a copy of the warranty into the dealer with you.
  • ostazostaz Member Posts: 80
    I called Isuzu. They said the fuel pressure regulator is NOT part of the fuel system ^!#@(*)~, rather part of the emission system, which for the 99 model year has 36mo/50k mile warranty. I am at 39k miles, but 4 days over 36 months.

    Oh, well, that's life.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Go back to the dealer or try another dealer and ask nice for them to make the warrantee cover it. Since it failed so close to the 36 months.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Many dealers would honor a repair under warranty on a vehicle that's 4 days past warranty. Unfortunately, your chances of getting reimbursed are probably much less than your chance of having it covered in the first place if you had pressed them on it.

    I'm no engineer, but it sure seems like a "FUEL pressure regulator" would be considered part of the FUEL system.

    How much were you charged for this repair?
  • ostazostaz Member Posts: 80
    I know, but when the dealer is holding your truck hostage, and you need your wheels, it's hard to argue for too long. The part was $88, and labor was $164, including $144 diag fee $!&@* and $20 shop disposal fee (I couldn't believe they were charging me $20 to throw away the old pressure regulator!).

    Don't really have too many choices, around here (Mineapolis metro area), there are only 2 dealers left.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Oh, well...like I said in an earlier post, I would rather pay to have my truck fixed quickly without multiple dealer trips, etc. than worry about the cost (for smaller items).

    They may have issues getting warrany repairs paid for by Isuzu? Maybe that is why they didn't go the extra mile? They identified the problem and fixed it quickly, there is something to be said for that.
  • cmunizcmuniz Member Posts: 604
    with warranty work is, I'm afraid, going to become more common as time passes. What does Isuzu have to lose by saying NO to borderline warranty work? Customers????
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I was all psyched up to tell Ostaz to take them to court. Then I checked my 1999 owner's manuals. On page 14 of the "Warranty Information" manual it clearly lists "fuel pressure control valve". It is considered to be part of the emissions system and as such it only has a 2yr/24,000mi warranty period. There are all sorts of other surprises, at least to me, in this emissions warranty section. Things such as fuel injector, throttle body assembly, powertrain control module, spark plugs, speed sensor etc. are also in this 2yr/24,000mi category.

    Everyone else might want to pull out their warranty manual and read it before you too are in for a nasty, non-covered repair.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I had my steering column replaced a while ago due to excessive wear (somehow dirt got into the boot on the joint on the column and caused a problem) and some slack has developed in the steering since the repair. I thought I would try to adjust the steering box myself. It has too hard to get at and make the adjustment, well it wasn't impossible, but it seemed like if I made a mistake I would then be SOL, so I am going to save it for the dealer.

    I have also had some front wheel vibration at 55 MPH for a while, which I attribute to my new tires. However I jacked up the truck today just to look around noticed the front driver's side wheel has some movement when I put pressure top/bottom? Not much, probably less than a mm, but still movement that could vibrate at speed? Maybe when they replace the steering column they took the wheel and other assembly off and didn't put it back right?

    Nothing too bad, but since I have a 3 ton Jack, I have to get out and use it once and a while.
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    That's good info, I didn't even consider the FPR could be "emissions system equipment". I wouldn't have thought that about the injectors, either. I mean, without the injectors IT WONT RUN (I guess that is the ultimate in emission reduction).

    I think it is pretty weasely to stick stuff like that under the emissions warranty.

    I wonder how you guys with the 2000s and later are covered for stuff like that?
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    I see you are in the Twin Cities - I am too! You go off road at all? We were trying to get a few people to go up to the new off-road park in Gilbert, but couldn't swing it. I think it closes for the season after this weekend, so maybe next spring...
  • ostazostaz Member Posts: 80
    That would be cool. I am in Bloomington.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    With a few of the issues I have had, stalling, running hot on 98+ days on the highway, some front end vibration...my service guy is recommending I get the 30K service done. I tend to think he is right, they will change the coolant, check/repack the bearings, check starter, etc. Axle fluid, while probably not necessary, couldn't hurt with the amount of water I have travelled through (even though now I limit myself to 1 foot or less)

    What have others paid for this service?
  • 96_i30_5sp96_i30_5sp Member Posts: 127
    Spend $50 on parts and a weekend in the garage and do it yourself. It's rewarding to get to know your Trooper while doing the job right. I would probably let a pro repack the bearings, though. If you are unable/unwilling to do it, shop around the local Isuzu dealers. When I called around the quotes ranged from $375 to over $500 and that didn't include the bearing repack.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Well time is the issue for me and doing service at home, though I sometimes change the oil myself and do rotate the tires every so often.

    On my way home from work and to the dealer afterwards, the transmission just crapped out? It wouldn't engage gears properly, and while shifting and/or @2500 RPMs it started to make that tape winding noise. At one stop light there was a low rumble and vibration, it was as if the transmission was slipping or a clutch (I don't know if a clutch engages with the brake?) wasn't engaging properly with the brake depressed?

    I was driving with TOD activated the last few days and power drive on. Afterwork I turned both off because it stopped raining and gusting...power drive just because people were talking about it on the forum recently. The only thing I think might be that the electronics failed and the TOD and power drive didn't properly disengage?

    At least it happened on the way to the dealer. I just hope it doesn't disappear after is sits overnight.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    My Monterey did that in March. Turned the ignition off, turned it on again and it went away.

    A DTC was caught and analysed by the dealer. Something to do with a range finder. There has not been a repeat and has been fine ever since.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I had something similar, but on mine it was cause my brake lights got shorted out (from my trailer hitch wiring) and it blew the brake light fuse, this in turn caused a problem with the tranny, and also my cruise control would not engage. Changed out the fuse, and all was better.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I shut the truck off and gave it 20 minutes while rousting the family to follow me to the dealer. It didn't go away. It did get better if I would shift in and out of "D" every so often or put it in Park.

    I am hoping 1. That they can find something wrong (nothing worse than getting it back with "nothing found" on the repair slip) and 2. that it is something simple, like a fuse or short or something.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Got a call from the dealer...$375 for the 30K service, not including the bearing repack.

    I have a bad catalytic converter? It is under warranty, but going to take a week to come in, so another trip out to the dealer in the next few weeks. Maybe that was causing the stalling here and there? That also may be the tape winding noise I just started hearing?

    No answer on the transmission yet.
  • catmanducatmandu Member Posts: 53
    Am heading to town this weekend to buy a hand pump for fluid changes. Where do you buy synthetic gear oils for diffs , also are there re-packable wheel bearings in the front wheels on a 4WD and can the weekend wrench jockey do it? Thanks
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Any auto parts store, Walmart, Sam's, Costco likely usually have Mobil1 gear lubes in stock. For other brands, like Amsoil or Redline, you have to look online or in speed shops.

    As to doing the front wheel bearing grease, many people DIY. However, it is a more involved procedure. For example, you have to pull the front rotor to get at the inner bearing, properly reset the bearing preload, get the hub nut off, etc. While not rocket science or real complex, it is way more complicated than fluid changes.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    The whole job came to $575. This included replacing the thermostat, which required removing the intake manifold? The said they gave me a break on the price because some of the labor got wrapped up in just the regular 30K service?

    The catalytic converter is going to have to be done next week. Supposedly they will have to remove at least 1 if not 2 frame rails to replace it?
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    how many miles on your truck? Why wasn't the thermostat replacement covered by warranty?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    IIRC is a wear and tear item?

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    30,500 miles. All in all I think they did a good job.

    I am not sure about the thermostat and the warranty (I will have to check, but it does seem like a wear item), it was $137 to replace. They did it because I reported running hot this summer...the service manager wanted to be safe...since it is such a pain to get back and forth to this place, I agreed. The other option is to wait for it to overheat again and then deal with it. If it overheats again, I will try to get something off the repair cost since this one wouldn't have been necessary.

    They also had to balance my tires, which is the 2nd time I have paid out of pocket at a different shop since the initial install. So for the $80 over the initial tire price, I could have bought a set of michelins which may be manufactured better and then offset the repeated balancing cost. My front end vibration is gone, which could have been the balance or the bearings? Either way I am glad it is fixed.

    Total cost $590 OTD - $180 for above work, so I guess the 30K service was $410 OTD.
  • calf1calf1 Member Posts: 14
    I had similar tranny issue (99 3.5) a few months back, it turned out to be the mode switch, a switch that senses the mechanical position of the shifter and inform to the PCM. It was miss-diagnosed by the dealer many times. I finally noticed that the gear position on the instrument panel shown does not match the actualy gear selected sometimes and they then finally fixed the problem. Don't know if you check this on your truck.
  • twnisbetttwnisbett Member Posts: 11
    Just for everyone's information - I went to a body shop, and they said that there's nothing they can do to move the seat back any further - Isuzu does not provide an extender kit, etc. And, they cannot drill new mounting holes without violating safety laws. Granted, a guy offered to do it in his garage at home, but I don't want to get in trouble. So, it seems that the seats stay where they are!

    Travis
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