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Paisan, when you just did the pads, did you get pulsing with the brakes?
Thanks for the quick replies.
-mike
At my 30K service in December they told me I needed my catalytic converter replaced, so I took my truck home and waited for it to come in. Now 2-3 weeks later I need new brakes? I would think they should check brakes at a 30K service. Fortunately the service manager thought the same thing, so he is going to try to cut some costs for me.
I'd make sure the service mgr knows you think they owe you some relief on the costs - don't let him keep telling you he's trying to do you a favor and help you out. That's garbage. I'd also make sure he knows how disappointed you are that they did such a sloppy job and missed the brakes on the last trip. You could have ruined your rotors in those 2-3 weeks, plus you could have saved this trip back (ignoring the cat converter) by having brakes fixed on your last visit.
I had the wheel bearings repacked and brake work done at the same time - waited until 75k until doing both for the first time. The Honda dealer told me they'd machine rotors while still on the truck.
At a minimum, the dealer should NOT charge you any labor, or parts which are probably just a few bucks, on the wheel bearing re-repack.
I don't remember for sure - couldn't find paperwork last night - but I think Honda dealer charged me $55 for the front pads and about $62 for the rears (parts cost) on my 1998 Trooper. Hope this helps.
Front brakes & wheel bearing repack:
2 oil seals @ 7.22 ea = $14.44
pads $52.00
Labor 3 hrs @ $76 = $228
Total job $294.44
Rear brakes
Pads $55.00
Labor 2 hrs @ $76 = $152
Total job $207.00
Brake fluid flush
No charge
So I paid $501 for all this work. Labor hours seem pretty high for pad install and rotor resurfacing. Any thoughts?
I spent $1,051 on this visit after a discount of $147 (not sure what it was for), so if you apply roughly half this discount to the brake work then I really paid more like $450.
So, about $450-500 for: new pads and machined rotors front and rear, brake fluid flush, and front wheel bearing repack.
Why a Honda dealer? Were they a Honda/Isuzu before or something? The labor charge seems right in line with what my dealer is charging...maybe the only way to beat that price is to go to a local mechanic?
-mike
Also, my impression was the shop mgr knew what he was talking about (I'm not so sure after my most recent visit) and they treated me right my first visit there - free brake inspection (though they must have misdiagnosed, since it was < 8k miles ago and they said '45-50% left front & rear' and I just had brake work done and they and another shop said the rears were basically done) and free chassis lube, plus I had a coupon for free A/C inspection. Brake inspection, fuel filter change, coolant change, A/C inspection, and chassis lube for about $85.
I got a quote from an Isuzu dealer and their estimate on the brake and t-belt etc. work sounded even higher.
This Honda shop changed names in the past 6 months but I think all staff stayed. Unfortunately their hourly labor rate increased from $72 to $76-- about 5-6%.
Hey, are you still pleased with your replacement shocks? Would you choose something else if you could do it again? My notes show you did the Monroe Reflex shocks, and got a great deal at $200 installed. Is that correct?
I generally swap shocks every 50K or so, more often than most people I know. IMO shocks generally don't go 100K without serious degredation in performance.
I had sprayed it last year with Waxoyl (as I did my 99 Trooper last summer).
Waxoyl goes on as a spray, and gets harder but stays flexible like a wax.
I will let you know in the spring, how my Trooper is doing.
Sam
Thank You
Sam
It was a humbling experience to learn that the intake pipe leading into the EGR valve must be brushed clean to allow uninterrupted flow into the valve. It was a simple step that I unknowingly skipped. It cost me $60 for the 2nd diagnosis and $50 labor from the dealer. It took less than 15 minutes to fix. The valve only cost me $115 so I still was better off performing the work myself. If anyone attempts to replace the EGR valve on their Trooper, remember to clean the intake pipe during the process.
What can I say? I’m still learning.
Hope this is helpful.
Lee
leedavidyoung, what year is your Trooper? Where's the EGR located? Did you have a shop manual to guide you?
Thanks for posting the link!
I did not use a shop manual for the repair. A friend of mine knew where it was and helped me with the removal and installation.
Also, what do you guys use to remove the lugs on your truck? The factory wrench isn't long enough to provide enough torque for me to get the lugs off on my 98 Trooper. I'm thinking about just buying a 22mm socket to use with my 1/2" drive socket wrench.
-mike
-mike
I couldn't remove the lug nuts on our other vehicle with the stock wrench either. Maybe I'm just too weak!
X-wrench
Basic Socket Set
Quart of Oil
Quart of ATF
Washer Fluid
Poncho
Wire Hanger
Duct Tape
Electrical Tape
Wire
Electrical Connectors
Tow Strap
Shackles
Extra Headlight Bulbs
WD40/Liquid Wrench
5-10lb mini-sledge hammer
paper towels
come-along
hose clamps
1" 7/8th Ball and tounge
2" Ball and tounge
Jumper cables
Clear Packing Tape
Bungies
I keep the light bulbs and shakles in the 30% door pocket, the towstrap in the 70% large pocket. Electrical tape and wire and connectors in the small 70% pocket along with adapter for Uhaul trailer lights and bungies.
In the under 2nd row of seats I keep the tounge and balls, jumper cables, and packing tape.
In a rubbermaid small bin, I keep the rest.
-mike
Can anybody please direct me to the fix? I am hoping for a simple "patch" like liquid gasket on the leak point only.
Thanks in advance.
The fluid in the Power Steering Fluid Reservoir is going down faster than normal and there are no leaks. I have never flushed the fluid as reccommended in the owners manual, but I dont know where the fluid is going if there are no leaks, some change is expected due to drop in temperature but it is more than that. Any comments or reccommendations will be highly appreciated. Thanks
..
Then I had a slight noise in the engine compartment when steering. I checked the power steering fluid level and it was gone. So I added some synthetic automatic transmission fluid, becuase I like synthetics, and the noise stopped. I made arrangements to have Creech Import look at the power steering system.
..
Over the phone they said this problem happens at the high pressure outlet hose fron the power steering pump. I took it in and sure enough that is what it was.
..
If you ever have your power steering fluid changed like the manual recommends, It might be a good idea to change that little hose too. But it was an expensive hose around $80 for the part I think.
I just had new brakes installed and I'm thinking of rotating the tires myself to make sure the lugs aren't overtorqued at the shop and thereby damage the brakes. Since I haven't yet changed a tire on this vehicle, I figure it would also be good practice in case of a flat.
BTW, are all of you proponents of cross style lug wrenches aware that tighting up your wheels without using a torque wrench can easily warp your rotors?
David
-mike
Re: club.vmag.com-- is this *another* Trooper discussion board that I need to add to my watch list? I thought I had identified all of the main ones (Edmunds, 4x4wire, ITOG, and forums.vmag.com/suvtrooper0199), but this "club vmag" wasn't on my radar screen.
I'm not so sure that some of the smaller get-err-done type of garages wouldn't miss something like using the proper torque on lugs.
Appreciate your input. Thanks
Thanks
Anyone else run into this? No, I didn't check my oil every other fill up. I have never encountered an engine that burned this much oil, especially when I bought it new and changed the oil much more often than Isuzu recommended.
As to the cause of the loss who knows. I believe the Corvette owners are thinking rings. Some talk that malfunctioning PCV and EGR valves are related to the Isuzu consumption.
Bottom line you have to check your oil levels. Some people have reported losing an engine in as little as a 1000 miles between level checks. Also, FWIW my opinion is that 3kmis is a more appropriate oil change interval on these trucks especially the ticking 3.2s. Granted you can find lots of support (including the manual) for much longer change intervals. Then again for the cost of some oil and a filter I think think it is cheap insurance to change as noted. Just my $.02.