Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

bahmed · October 2005

You mean the Trooper goes from 2 gear to 4 gear or just jump to next gear, check the level of Transmission oil and change it if it has been a while, if this does not fix it, then more than likely it is the Transmission Mode/Range Switch. If you are talking about the clunk when taking turns, when you start and stop etc, it could be the Slip Yolk, which requires regreasing the Slip Yolk.

Hope this helps.

hinton · October 2005

98 Trooper. Runs fine for an hour or so. Starts bucking when excelerating at any speeds. Stop, turn ignition off and right back on and engine will run fine for a few minutes, even an hour or so before bucking again. Changed fuel filter but no effect. Thinking it may be a dirty screen on the pick up tube in the fuel tank. Check engine light has been on for a while. Code indicate poor air flow in the EGR valve. Problem just recently started though. Any thoughts?

petegos · October 2005

Hi all, on my '99 TOD automatic Trooper, the shift indicator (in the instrument panel) 'goes wild', i.e., it flashes to the other gears - P, D, 3, 2 - when I shift up manually. This happens when I start from a stop, or if I shift down (for ex., on a hill) and then again when I shift up. The transmission seems to shift OK, although I do hear a slight clunk, but the indicator lights are disconcerting. - Also have a 2001 TOD Trooper, and this has never happened before with it. Any ideas what could be causing this?

bahmed · October 2005

This seems like EGR valve cleaning and may be also intake unit cleaning, you do not need to change the EGR valve, just clean it. If you can do it yourself do it, it is not that hard or get it done at dealership/Autoshop/

bahmed · October 2005

This definetly sounds like Transmission Range/Mode Switch. Just change this switch, this run around $140 from St. Charles Isuzu and you can replace yourself. Make sure you take some digital pictures or make your own markings as you need to put back exactly how it is today.One hint would be, when you remove the existing Switch, there will be a dust mark left by the old switch on the Transmission, when you put the new one, just match the dust mark and you should be alright. I tried opening the switch, cleaning it, regreasing it, but it did not work. Just replace the Mode/Range Switch, you will not have the problem for a long time, this Swith failure is common in Rodeo/Trooper/Amigo. You can see my other posts on this message board on the same topice for some more info if needed. Hope this helps.

29trooper · October 2005

Fram sure drain eliminated this problem for me. It takes a bit longer to drain but it is weell worth the time it takes to not have to clean all the oil up, and off the back of the lefvt front wheel.

29trooper · October 2005

K&N! for air and oil.....the oil filter from K&N has metal in places that other filters use lesser materials....they cost a bit more but if you hold one you can tell the have more steel in them.

29trooper · October 2005

Spray on bedliner. There are several dealers Line-X, Speedliner, etc. that now color match the spray on liner. I had all my fender flares and rocker panels done for $175. The fender flares are now by far the strongest pieces on the body, and it looks cool too.

29trooper · October 2005

I am getting ready to do my first pad replacement, and I was curious if there is anything out of the ordinary I need to know. I have done lots of brakes on various vehicles but, this time I don't have my trusty Haynes to rely on. Is it pretty simple, or do I need any special tools for removing fasteners?????

29trooper · October 2005

Forget factory filters.....K&N is the way to go for oil and air filters. The oil filters cost a little more but they are well worth it.

wlbrown9 · October 2005

I bought replacement pads for my '00 Trooper LS at the local dealer. He printed out a diagram that show where all the parts go....many more shims, etc. than I had to deal with on the '00 Jeep GC we had. I have not put them on yet, so I can't really tell you how difficult the job is yet.

luluisuzu · October 2005

I have owned "Lulu" since June 11, 1988 and she died last week - Oct. 14, 2005 with 240K miles. I have been the only owner and she has been a "real trooper" for 17 1/2 years. According to her doctor "Dr. Weaver" she has a cracked head and he has advised me not to try and resuscitate her this time. I don't know alot of details and the mechanical terms to use but I am hoping if someone can tell me if I should heed the advice of my mechanic and let her go or have her repaired. If repaired what can I expect as far a performance, etc. I had let someone use her the last couple of months and they failed to have the oil level checked and she was 2000 miles past her oil change. I had always taken her for her oil change on time (3000 miles) and taken wonderful care of her. I feel really bad that this has happened and I just can't seem to make myself accept that she cannot be repaired. I am sure some are truly laughing out loud at this crazy person but I am for real. If more details are needed I can ask the mechanic. Thanks for any suggestions.

29trooper · October 2005

It was a snap! Did all four corners and rotated the tires in a hour. Two bolts hole the calipers on (17mm front,14mm rear). The lower bolt comes all the way out and the top unscrews but is retained, then the caliper just swings up exposing the pads. Rotar surfaces were nice and smooth so I did have them turned (everyone has their own opinions on to turn or not to turn). Replaced the pads, pushed the piston back in slowly with a big C clamp and put it all back together.

29trooper · October 2005

2000 miles past an oil change did not cause her to die....UNLESS that meant she ran out of oil. 3000 miles is a distance that oil sellers have advertised for years to get you to buy oil more frequently but, I bet if you look at the owners manual is probably says 5000 or even 7500 depending on your driving conditions. Get away from conventional oils and use synthetics. Yes, the initila sticker shock of $5+ a quart is a bit much for some but, you on't have to change it as often and it is a superior lubrication plus, you are not using more petroleum products. As fixing her, anything is possible.....it just depends on how much she means to you, and how much are you willing to invest. I think though that saying she died because she was over mileage is like saying the 99 year old man dies becasue he smoked....No, he died because he was old! Sorry for your loss anyway....I love my trooper too but, mine is a young Philly: )

petegos · October 2005

Hi, thanks for your reply. I have this vehicle ('99 TOD Trooper) in my mechanic's shop now (he's an Independent, not an Isuzu dealer shop). I've told him about this part you've identified (Transmission Range/Mode Switch) and he's contacted 2 local Isuzu dealers here in Long Beach, CA. Neither of them knows what he's talking about! Is this the technical name of the part? - You mention "St. Charles Isuzu" - do you have contact info for them? Perhaps he can order the part from them directly. Thanks again.

bahmed · October 2005

Just search for St Charles Isuzu in your Browser and you will find it. Edmunds policies prevents me from typing the actual web address, if you search for my other posts on this board, just search for Transmission Mode Switch and I think one of the post I posted the web address, not a big deal you will get on the internet, St charles Isuzu is the best Authorized dealer for Genuine parts with Whole sale prices. The dealerships usually refer them as Transmission Mode Switch, Transmission Range Switch also Transmission inhibitor Switch, but the most common name I have heard of is Transmission Mode Switch. Go to the nearest Auto Zone and look at the Haynes repair manual in the Transmission section and you will see a picture of the Transmission Mode Switch. What this Switch does is, when you change the gear, there is a lever inside this switch which moves and tells the position of the gear to the Transmission computer. The switch is installed on the shift rod of the transmission, when you change the gear, the transmission shift rod moves clockwise or anti-clockwise and hence the lever inside this switch. This switch is installed on the side of the Transmission, it is on the Driver side in Rodeo (Auto), this switch looks like expanded 'V' with a wire harness connected to it. Call any Isuzu dealer and ask for Transmission Mode/Range Switch, it costs around $142 whole sale, $180-$200 retail, you may want to go to the Dealer parts shop in person and check it out to see how it looks.

hope this helps.

justajason · October 2005

:P Havent had anyone help me out with this yet, so heres a shot... I got a clunk, when I take off at the light. And Ive got a clink, or a clunk, when I put her in gear.
I have a 2001 trooper with 83000, Took care of the oil consumption, with engine flushes, and synthetic. Changed the plugs out with denso's cause it came with champions. Changed the timing belt. Replaced shocks. Did the tire Bal/Rot. Also, put a new IMG and plenum on her. She surged at a toll booth. Any suggestions? SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!

bahmed · October 2005

If it is slipping the gear like from 1st to 3rd while accelarating from Stop and if jumps from 3rd to 1st when it comes to stop, it is more than likely the old Transmission oil or low transmission oil, if that is o.k, then it is the common Transmission Mode/Range Switch. If your talking about the something else, then it could be the Slip Yolk in the Drive Shaft, from the mileage of 83000 it could be either the Transmission Mode/Range Switch or the Transmission Gear Shaft Slip Yolk greased have dried out. If it is the Transmission Range/Mode Switch, change it is like $142 for the part, if it is the grease in the Slip Yolk, you need it get it regreased.

Hope this helps.

wlbrown9 · October 2005

I finally got around to replacing my brake pad ('00 Trooper LS 2/wd) Saturday. It took me a couple of hours since I used the standard jack and jack-stand one wheel at a time. No problems....just as you described. Much easier that the old '00 Jeep GCL we had a couple of years ago. I had purchased the pads from the local Isuzu dealership maybe 6 weeks ago.

My only disappointment is that the original pads still had at least 60% of the original pad material, except the inside rear pads were probably down to 30%. So, I probably could have gone another 50,000 miles on the front and maybe another 20-30,000 on the rear. But I figured with 91,000 miles they should be ready. Glad to have it done and won't have to worry about it again.

starquality · November 2005

I have a 1990 isuzu trooper v6 auto . While i was driving it just shut down and stalled . I have checked for spark and fuel and both are fine . can anyone suggest what might be the problem? Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks

tenobb · November 2005

I'm trying to replace the water pump in my 88 Isuzu pickup (2.3 liter engine). I'm having problem with removing the timing belt cover. can anyone help me?

richa1 · November 2005

I have had similar experience; check for loose or broken engine mounts, especially in the rear. I also had a transmission rebuilt once and the supporting cross member had a rubber pad/bumper on it. They broke it during the replacement of the transmission and I had a knocking ever since, especially when accelerating from a dead stop.

thudy · November 2005

I bought my 1996 trooper on 78k miles this summer.
When I purchased it, I brought it to the ISUZU dealer.
They told me this vehicle is in good shape, maybe never off-road before. Howerver, there is something flaws:
1. the power steering pump leaking;
2. engine oil leaking;
3. need to change the CV-boot;
4. frant bearing loosing.

For prob 1: I rebuilt the power steering pump and it stopped leaking. The power steering system works well, but sames the power steering wheel doesn't stay stable at the center point. A little loosing.

For prob 2:I changed the engine oil cooler gasket, it stopped leaking.

For prob 3: I changed all the four CV-boots, and no whimper
while I make a turn.

For prob 4: I paid 265$ to fix it.

But after I changed CV-boots, there are some new problem come out.
1. Sometimes "buzz" when I hit the accelerator, after a little while it goes away. This comes out especiallly after I turn right.
2. Sometimes the brake shakes, especiallly after I turn on the engine and start to shift transmission.

Some tech. told me the "buzz" comes from the muffler, something loosing inside the muffler. About the brake, may need a bleeding. (when I pull out the balljoint to take off the cv boot, the arms flipped out the brake pad assembly. Maybe this cause the air into the vacuum pipe.)

green11 · November 2005

I own a 99 trooper with 92K miles and bought it with 74k and I am unsure of previous maintenance. It was an affordable vehicle at purchase and has been affordable to maintain so far (only oil changes). I am trying to decide if I should keep the trooper for the long haul and invest in it or sell it in a year.

I was thinking of doing some maintenance to try to keep the trooper going for awhile, but I am concerned about the transmission reliability.

I was considering a transmission fluid change or flush among other things

Two local transmission shops with good reputations said not to touch the transmission fluid if I am unsure of previous maintenance as the newer additives would ruin my transmission if it had not been changed every 30,000. They said if its not broke don't fix it at this point. My local dealer said to give it a flush, but they have an average reputation at best.

One person went so far as to tell me I would be lucky to see anything over 120K, and very, very, very lucky to hit 150K on this particular GM transmission.

What do you think about the transmission reliability and flush versus leaving it alone.

newro · November 2005

Quick question for all. I have a 2000 Rodeo Ls with 87k miles on it. Virtually trouble free from day one. Looking at the Ascender (I like Isuzu's, this would be my 4th one), however have some concerns about the company staying in the states (warranty issues) etc. Also, how are Ascender owners doing with it quality wise. Again, I have had 3 Isuzus (2 troopers and the rodeo) they have all been great. Thanks

bahmed · November 2005

Please be aware that the Ascender is not at all a true Isuzu, they are just a rebadged GM TrailBlazer/Envoy. Just compare the inside and outside pictures of a GM TrailBlazer with that of a Isuzu Ascender, you will notice the similarity. Hope this helps, the only benefit you may get is the longer warranty, not sure about the price.

boxtrooper · November 2005

GM contracted Isuzu to redesign their S-10 pickups and SUVs, the results are the Chevy TrailBlazer SUV and the Colorado Pickup and their copies sold by the other GM brands. While not entirely an Isuzu design, these are a huge improvement over the S-10 series.
..
So, to me the Colorado and TrailBlazer are just as much re-badged Isuzus as the Isuzus are re-badged GMs. Check out the Isuzu DMax
..
http://www.sonirodban.com/isuzu.html
..
2007 Isuzu MU-7 the next trooper?

http://www.worldstyling.com/web/product_detail.php?id=960

davec4 · November 2005

Help! I have a 2000 Trooper, 4WD. Here in Atlanta we are required yearly emissions testing.....mine failed! The printout said EGR, misfire, and all 4 sensors bad. I know about taking the ERG off and cleaning it. Also planning a tune-up and will attempt replacing the sensors myself. But before I start, a few questions:

1. Where can I get a maintenance manual? Neither Chiltons nor Haynes have yet to print one.

2. I'm new to Trooper self maintenance. Where is the ERG located. What about the 4 sensors?

3. Anyone have any suggestions or warnings before I start?

I appreciate any help anyone can get! Thanks in advance!

bluedevils · November 2005

I'm going to dig through the forums here for more ideas, but in the meantime I wanted to ask a question right away regarding Torque on Demand (TOD). Sold my 98 Trooper to parents, who bought it primarily for snowy winter driving. Well, the TOD is on the fritz again - flashing red "CHECK" occasionally and blinking all the time when the 4WD Auto button is pushed in (turned on).

1. What are the possible root causes of this problem? I seem to recall some sort of faulty 'sensor' but that's it.

2. How have folks gotten their TOD issues resolved? I'd hate to see my dad drop $500 at the Isuzu dealer, especially since I just sold him this rig a few months ago. But if I was confident they could fix it right the first time for that amount, it might be worth it. We've never visited the Isuzu dealer in his town (Fox Isuzu - Grand Rapids, Michigan) and I have not heard anything about the quality of their service department. He uses a local shop for most/all maintenance/repair work on his vehicles. They are honest, friendly, priced right, and willing to order parts from dealer or elsewhere as needed. But they likely have very little Trooper knowledge. Would it be worth trying to get the problem fixed at this local shop instead of the dealer? It would probably be cheaper if they could fix it there, but I don't know if they could figure out the problem. I have no idea how hard a problem like this is to figure out.

Thanks in advance for the help.

boxtrooper · November 2005

On my 2001 the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) valve is on top of the engine in plain view near the firewall on the passenger side of center. It is about 2 inches in diameter and 4 or 5 inches tall. The original was black, the replacement was silver. The 2001 EGR valve is a GM part, so you might try and cross reference it to a GM car part number to buy it for less. I had my mechanic change mine, the part cost was between $175 and $200 and the labor was the same, the cleaning out part is the hard time consuming part. The cleaning takes place in the hole where the EGR valve was removed, not so much on the valve itself. I was told the silver one is a better design than the black one.
..
The EGR valve if failed could be helping to cause the missfires especially at low RPM.
..
Fix what you can, maybe have a look at the missfiring spark plugs? Then reset the computer by removing battery power for an hour and then drive a while to fill up some history for the emissions tester to read in when it talks to your ODB2 engine computer.

wlbrown9 · November 2005

Here is a link to a EGR section of the FAQ, links to some photos as well. http://isuzufaq.ibctech.ca/#faq1

mbiggins · December 2005

Hi, had a 91 that did same thing check the in the distributor cap there is a electronic modulator try buying a new one.

valkyriemc · December 2005

I have a 1990 4 cyl. with 325K on it. I've had a blown head gasket at 125k, a cracked head (not rebuldable)at 225k and I just did a valve job due to extremly low compression on two cyl, at 325k. If you can do the job yourself a rebult head can be had for $325(I think) on ebay. You have to evaluate time, money, vs. a new car $$$'s. If the rest of the car is good to go, I'd go for it. If you dont want to pour 1k to 1400. for someone else to do the job then it's sinara....p/s eventual head problems with this car are INEVITABLE.

sbcooke · December 2005

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes? Does 4wd still work when engaged? How about 4wd low? Have you tried Autozone for the code? They pull it free.

When my actuator was bad, it would flash check when it would sense a slip and would send power to the front. Since the actuator was not working, it wouldn't get power there and fail. So I would guess either you 4wd isn't working, or a sensor is bad. I had no luck with dealers and TOD issues. The sensors are easy to replace from what I can see. Perhaps even cleaning one would fix it...again it is finding out which one and how to access it. It would be worth buying a manual, ordering a part from St. Charles Isuzu and replacing it yourself if you can identify the problem.

There are some sensors on the front axle that can be reached easily. The only problem is knowledge. I replaced my 4wd actuator myself, but it took a lot of research, I almost bought a helms and probably should have.

bluedevils · December 2005

My Dad ended up taking it to the Isuzu dealer. Still need to bug him for the paperwork so I can see what was wrong.

coastin · December 2005

I have a 1997 Trooper, V6, automatic, basic model, 135,000 miles. I'm the original owner. When I slow down (like stopping) the engine will not return to idle speed, but stays at anywhere from 2,000 to 3,000 rpm. At first it was intermittent, but now happens the majority of the time I drive. Had it to the local Isuzu dealer and local mechanic but they're clueless. Maintenance is up to sched. Sometimes while it's staying at driving rpm, and you stop and turn off the car for a few minutes it goes back to operating normally. Also, if you start the engine and leave it in neutral, it won't surge up in rpm, but will immediately (after previously faulting) once you put the transmission in gear. Any help here? :confuse:

petecal · January 2006

My Trooper just developed a leak in the power steering line. A picture is
at:

http://home.adelphia.net/~pjcalinski/PWRStrLeak.jpg

One drop of pink fluid can be seen hanging from the tubing about two inches to the left of the bracket holding the tubing.

I believe I can patch it by sliding some rubber hose over the area where the leak is.

Note, I already did this with the transmission fluid lines to the radiator after they rusted out.

Before I proceed, I have some questions.

1) Is this the high pressure side? It is difficult to tell by following the routing of the tubes but I think it is the high pressure side. I don't know if I can get rubber hose that can take the pressure. According to the shop manual, the normal operating pressure is around 580 psi.

2) Why did they route the tubing like this? Everything associated with the power steering system is on the drivers side. That includes the pump, reservoir, and steering box. For some reason they brought the tubing across the front of the vehicle, behind and just below the radiator and then made a "U" turn and took it back. The "U" turn is the black section of tubing in the right of the picture.

Did they do this for cooling purposes? Did they do it to reduce the pressure by making the flow cover a longer distance? Frankly I'm stumped.

The answers to these questions might impact how I solve the problem.

Thanks in advance,

PeteCal

limpwell · January 2006

Question???
Can Trooper 4 cylinder head work be done without removing the engine from the vehicle? Generally speaking, How difficult is a 4 cylinder Trooper to work on. I've been working on Small Block Chevys for a long time. I'm considering a change. I'm a 50 year old back yard mechanic.

makaye · January 2006

Coastin;
Dealer couldn't figure it out?
What did the dealer and indy mechanic check?
It would seem that the problem would be relatively straightforward to diagnose with "common" fuel injection diagnostic / flow charts.
Did you try a "google" search on fuel injection idle problems?
How about the Edmunds forum for idle problems?
/direct/view/.ef13c30/0

petecal · January 2006

#1) The shop manuals always say to fix the first problem (EGR) first then reset the DTCs. That may make all the other errors go away and stay away.

#2) I wrote up quite a description about how I rebuilt an EGR that was giving DTC P0405. I gave it to the guy that maintains the Isuzu FAQ and he said he would add it. I can't seem to find it there.

#3) If anybody can cross reference to a GM, that would be great. I was at Napa store a few years ago and saw a kid buying an EGR for his Blazer that looked just like my Trooper EGR. I should have gotten more information from him. I happened to be passing the same place just a few weeks ago and I had some time so I went in and tried to get the guy to work with me to cross reference it. He was less than helpful even though the store was empty.

I am sure that the GM EGR can be used on a Trooper or at least it can be cannibalize for parts to repair the Trooper EGR. Believe me, I have dug way down into the operation of the EGR.

Hope this Helps

PeteCal

petergos · January 2006

Hi,
I've just started noticing that on my '99 Trooper, the front wheels engage when there's no reason they should. Although the "4WD" button is pressed in (i.e., the TOD system is turned 'on'), there was no reason the power shouldhave shifted to the front wheels (the system showed a 50/50 power spit between front & back, and I could feel the drive in the front axel). I tried it again on dry pavement several days later, and the same thing happened. I just had a major service done on the vehicle. It has 48K mi. Any ideas why this could be happening?
Thanks.

bigdogg · January 2006

How's it going. The reason for your high idle is the IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE, or the THROTTLE AIR BYPASS VALVE. It is called several different things, but it basically makes your car idle by controlling the air going past the throttle plate. It is easy to fix, and I can't believe that a mechanic missed it. Most can see it coming from a mile away. Easy money for the mechanic when you take it to a dealership. When the idle is high, usually hitting it will move the plunger enough to cut the air flow down to normal. That's how most find out that's the problem. Hope that helps.

bigdogg · January 2006

The valve is hanging up at the throttle open or gas pedal depressed setting. When you go down the road, it opens up about 3/4 so when you let off the gas quick, it won't stall the engine. Your's is just hanging up. Whether the valve is gummed up, or the motor part of it that moves the plunger is malfunctioning. It is usually located near the throttle plate. Or where the air pipe comes from your air filter box to the intake. Somewhere there. Has a 2 wire connector going to it most of the time. I checked for you and advance auto parts has one for $38, GP SORENSON IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE Part #77910077. Once you look at it you will know what I am talking about. The pintle that controls air flow and the motor that goes with it.

bigdogg · January 2006

Yes I do think that you need your trans fluid changed...not flushed. I think on a trans like that you should just do the old fashioned trans fluid change by dropping the fluid pan and replacing the filter, and putting the 4-6 new quarts of fluid in the trans. Some people will say but you don't get the fluid out of the converter, who cares. you have 6 out of the 9 quarts you have in there. And when it mixes it you have some pretty new fluid. If you really want to be crazy about the fluid. In about 5 to 10000 miles just drop the pan and change just the fluid-not the filter. That will give you almost new fluid. That what they did before all this flushing crap came out. I think that it is all bull anyway. When you flush the trans you stir up all that crap inside it. Fine metal and friction material then hang your valves up inside your valve body(provides the shifts1-2-3-4-5)and you are stuck in 1st gear because the garbage scored the valve up. Just be clean when you do it, make sure no dirt off of you goes in there either. Clean the pan,
with a new gasket to go on = a whole lot cheaper than a $100 trans flush. Oh and NNNNNOOOOOOO Additives. Everything you need is in that fluid. Don't let anyone sell you some bullcrap like that. Not needed. One question, do you really think that they put that stuff in it when it was built at the factory? Nope, you could say because of cost efficency, but I say because it's a gimmick. Some aftermarket company trying to make a buck. I hope this helped. Oh, and coolant flushes are rediculous too. I know because I am a mechanic who no longer works at a stealership. I am in private industry now, I like it much better. I had too much of a conscience. All you need to do is drain and refill your radiator. Sometimes the additives help depending on your nitrate level, but if you D&R, you should be just fine. Remember your belts need changing too, and a air and fuel filter is nice sometimes every 15-20K too. Those are about the best bang for you buck things you can do.

bigdogg · January 2006

You are getting an artificial intake leak from your egr valve probably. It is sticking and probably letting exhaust lean out the mixture, which is causing your missing and bucking. I would replace the egr valve. Cheap if you do it yourself. The reason it clears up sometimes is it probably stops sticking, and then all of the sudden it sticks and leans the motor out. Hope it helps.

bigdogg · January 2006

Change the belts, Drain and refill radiator(much cheaper than flushing which is stupid anyaway)Drain and refill transmission fluid in pan(no flushing or additives, just drop the fluid, clean the pan gooooood with brakeleen and new gasket if not reusable) Check Front end balljoints and tie rod ends(shouldn't charge to check, but don't pay over 20 bucks. It takes a wiggle of the wheel to check both) Air and Fuel Filter are both a good idea at least every 20-30K. Also the Differential Fluid is good to change, not a necessity, but it is good for long term if you have the money for it. It is simply take the cover off of the rear end, let the fluid drain out and clean mating surfaces and apply sealant and reinstall. Plug is in the front or in the cover. Fill until it runs a good slow stream out of the fill hole. If you want to try it yourself. That's about it. Along with oil changes regularly. Hope it helps.

bigdogg · January 2006

IDLE AIR CONTROL VALVE or an intake leak. Check your hoses and make sure they are not leaking. 99% sure it is your IACV. They are a common problem. Hope it helps.

bigdogg · January 2006

What is the mileage on your troop? If it is 60,000 or more I would change the plugs, oxygen sensors, and the egr valve. ALL of it can be done by you for much cheaper than the stealership can do for you. Even if you have to buy a $5 Oxygen sensor socket at Advance. Plugs are Cake. Make sure you blow compressed air down the plug holes as they collect dirt and crud down there you don't want going into your engine. Hope this helps. Oh, the sensors are all on the exhaust. You have 2 upstream(before the converter) and 2 downstream(after the converter) The 2 downstream are your catalyst efficiency monitors. They monitor how well your catalytic converter and EGR are doing the job of lowering your NOx levels in the exhaust. Did you have a check engine light? I have a hard time believing that 4 sensors were "bad" and it didn't even trip a check engine light. Also, the sensor which monitors how much exhaust is going through your egr valve might be bad. If it is generally it will do some weird things. You will usually get a INSUFF EXHAUST FLOW or EXCESSIVE EXHAUST FLOW DETECTED. Ford called it a DPFE sensor or Delta pressure feedback exhaust sensor. Might be worth a look. Generally throws a code though. Hope it helps.

n9pug · January 2006

after installing a vortex generator in the intake hose, and putting in a 4700 ohm resistor in place of the thermistor (IAT SENSOR ) I am getting 16 mpg combined town and highway. Has anyone got more or is this about the best it gets? I would like to get 20 mpg, any tips apprecaited......I have seen some websites where they give the mileage at 13.8 when it was new.
LOVE MY TROOPER)

bigdogg · January 2006

I would be careful putting a resistor in place of the IAT. It adjusts the fuel/air ratio depending on the density of the air coming in the motor by reading the temp of it. Colder air has more density so you get more oxygen in it, which requires more fuel. Hot air has less, so you need less. Just be careful not to run it too lean or you will burn a valve or put a hole in a piston. The MAF determines the amount of fuel by how much it detects coming across it in conjuction with the density measured by the IAT. That's messing with some of the fuel maps in the computer. Just be careful. Gas is cheaper than a new motor.

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