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Hope this helps.
hope this helps.
I have a 2001 trooper with 83000, Took care of the oil consumption, with engine flushes, and synthetic. Changed the plugs out with denso's cause it came with champions. Changed the timing belt. Replaced shocks. Did the tire Bal/Rot. Also, put a new IMG and plenum on her. She surged at a toll booth. Any suggestions? SOMEONE PLEASE HELP!
Hope this helps.
My only disappointment is that the original pads still had at least 60% of the original pad material, except the inside rear pads were probably down to 30%. So, I probably could have gone another 50,000 miles on the front and maybe another 20-30,000 on the rear. But I figured with 91,000 miles they should be ready. Glad to have it done and won't have to worry about it again.
Thanks
When I purchased it, I brought it to the ISUZU dealer.
They told me this vehicle is in good shape, maybe never off-road before. Howerver, there is something flaws:
1. the power steering pump leaking;
2. engine oil leaking;
3. need to change the CV-boot;
4. frant bearing loosing.
For prob 1: I rebuilt the power steering pump and it stopped leaking. The power steering system works well, but sames the power steering wheel doesn't stay stable at the center point. A little loosing.
For prob 2:I changed the engine oil cooler gasket, it stopped leaking.
For prob 3: I changed all the four CV-boots, and no whimper
while I make a turn.
For prob 4: I paid 265$ to fix it.
But after I changed CV-boots, there are some new problem come out.
1. Sometimes "buzz" when I hit the accelerator, after a little while it goes away. This comes out especiallly after I turn right.
2. Sometimes the brake shakes, especiallly after I turn on the engine and start to shift transmission.
Some tech. told me the "buzz" comes from the muffler, something loosing inside the muffler. About the brake, may need a bleeding. (when I pull out the balljoint to take off the cv boot, the arms flipped out the brake pad assembly. Maybe this cause the air into the vacuum pipe.)
I was thinking of doing some maintenance to try to keep the trooper going for awhile, but I am concerned about the transmission reliability.
I was considering a transmission fluid change or flush among other things
Two local transmission shops with good reputations said not to touch the transmission fluid if I am unsure of previous maintenance as the newer additives would ruin my transmission if it had not been changed every 30,000. They said if its not broke don't fix it at this point. My local dealer said to give it a flush, but they have an average reputation at best.
One person went so far as to tell me I would be lucky to see anything over 120K, and very, very, very lucky to hit 150K on this particular GM transmission.
What do you think about the transmission reliability and flush versus leaving it alone.
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So, to me the Colorado and TrailBlazer are just as much re-badged Isuzus as the Isuzus are re-badged GMs. Check out the Isuzu DMax
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http://www.sonirodban.com/isuzu.html
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2007 Isuzu MU-7 the next trooper?
http://www.worldstyling.com/web/product_detail.php?id=960
1. Where can I get a maintenance manual? Neither Chiltons nor Haynes have yet to print one.
2. I'm new to Trooper self maintenance. Where is the ERG located. What about the 4 sensors?
3. Anyone have any suggestions or warnings before I start?
I appreciate any help anyone can get! Thanks in advance!
1. What are the possible root causes of this problem? I seem to recall some sort of faulty 'sensor' but that's it.
2. How have folks gotten their TOD issues resolved? I'd hate to see my dad drop $500 at the Isuzu dealer, especially since I just sold him this rig a few months ago. But if I was confident they could fix it right the first time for that amount, it might be worth it. We've never visited the Isuzu dealer in his town (Fox Isuzu - Grand Rapids, Michigan) and I have not heard anything about the quality of their service department. He uses a local shop for most/all maintenance/repair work on his vehicles. They are honest, friendly, priced right, and willing to order parts from dealer or elsewhere as needed. But they likely have very little Trooper knowledge. Would it be worth trying to get the problem fixed at this local shop instead of the dealer? It would probably be cheaper if they could fix it there, but I don't know if they could figure out the problem. I have no idea how hard a problem like this is to figure out.
Thanks in advance for the help.
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The EGR valve if failed could be helping to cause the missfires especially at low RPM.
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Fix what you can, maybe have a look at the missfiring spark plugs? Then reset the computer by removing battery power for an hour and then drive a while to fill up some history for the emissions tester to read in when it talks to your ODB2 engine computer.
When my actuator was bad, it would flash check when it would sense a slip and would send power to the front. Since the actuator was not working, it wouldn't get power there and fail. So I would guess either you 4wd isn't working, or a sensor is bad. I had no luck with dealers and TOD issues. The sensors are easy to replace from what I can see. Perhaps even cleaning one would fix it...again it is finding out which one and how to access it. It would be worth buying a manual, ordering a part from St. Charles Isuzu and replacing it yourself if you can identify the problem.
There are some sensors on the front axle that can be reached easily. The only problem is knowledge. I replaced my 4wd actuator myself, but it took a lot of research, I almost bought a helms and probably should have.
at:
http://home.adelphia.net/~pjcalinski/PWRStrLeak.jpg
One drop of pink fluid can be seen hanging from the tubing about two inches to the left of the bracket holding the tubing.
I believe I can patch it by sliding some rubber hose over the area where the leak is.
Note, I already did this with the transmission fluid lines to the radiator after they rusted out.
Before I proceed, I have some questions.
1) Is this the high pressure side? It is difficult to tell by following the routing of the tubes but I think it is the high pressure side. I don't know if I can get rubber hose that can take the pressure. According to the shop manual, the normal operating pressure is around 580 psi.
2) Why did they route the tubing like this? Everything associated with the power steering system is on the drivers side. That includes the pump, reservoir, and steering box. For some reason they brought the tubing across the front of the vehicle, behind and just below the radiator and then made a "U" turn and took it back. The "U" turn is the black section of tubing in the right of the picture.
Did they do this for cooling purposes? Did they do it to reduce the pressure by making the flow cover a longer distance? Frankly I'm stumped.
The answers to these questions might impact how I solve the problem.
Thanks in advance,
PeteCal
Can Trooper 4 cylinder head work be done without removing the engine from the vehicle? Generally speaking, How difficult is a 4 cylinder Trooper to work on. I've been working on Small Block Chevys for a long time. I'm considering a change. I'm a 50 year old back yard mechanic.
Dealer couldn't figure it out?
What did the dealer and indy mechanic check?
It would seem that the problem would be relatively straightforward to diagnose with "common" fuel injection diagnostic / flow charts.
Did you try a "google" search on fuel injection idle problems?
How about the Edmunds forum for idle problems?
/direct/view/.ef13c30/0
#2) I wrote up quite a description about how I rebuilt an EGR that was giving DTC P0405. I gave it to the guy that maintains the Isuzu FAQ and he said he would add it. I can't seem to find it there.
#3) If anybody can cross reference to a GM, that would be great. I was at Napa store a few years ago and saw a kid buying an EGR for his Blazer that looked just like my Trooper EGR. I should have gotten more information from him. I happened to be passing the same place just a few weeks ago and I had some time so I went in and tried to get the guy to work with me to cross reference it. He was less than helpful even though the store was empty.
I am sure that the GM EGR can be used on a Trooper or at least it can be cannibalize for parts to repair the Trooper EGR. Believe me, I have dug way down into the operation of the EGR.
Hope this Helps
PeteCal
I've just started noticing that on my '99 Trooper, the front wheels engage when there's no reason they should. Although the "4WD" button is pressed in (i.e., the TOD system is turned 'on'), there was no reason the power shouldhave shifted to the front wheels (the system showed a 50/50 power spit between front & back, and I could feel the drive in the front axel). I tried it again on dry pavement several days later, and the same thing happened. I just had a major service done on the vehicle. It has 48K mi. Any ideas why this could be happening?
Thanks.
with a new gasket to go on = a whole lot cheaper than a $100 trans flush. Oh and NNNNNOOOOOOO Additives. Everything you need is in that fluid. Don't let anyone sell you some bullcrap like that. Not needed. One question, do you really think that they put that stuff in it when it was built at the factory? Nope, you could say because of cost efficency, but I say because it's a gimmick. Some aftermarket company trying to make a buck. I hope this helped. Oh, and coolant flushes are rediculous too. I know because I am a mechanic who no longer works at a stealership. I am in private industry now, I like it much better. I had too much of a conscience. All you need to do is drain and refill your radiator. Sometimes the additives help depending on your nitrate level, but if you D&R, you should be just fine. Remember your belts need changing too, and a air and fuel filter is nice sometimes every 15-20K too. Those are about the best bang for you buck things you can do.
LOVE MY TROOPER)