Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
So there could be a sensor issue, or you could have under/over ,between front and rear, inflated tires that cause enough difference to trigger the locking
I would ensure that the speed sensors are well connected.
Thank you.
3 months ago the turbo blew which is look of the draw all the same cost 1400 dollars fitted.
The problem im having at the moment has me broke and my mechanic lost. sent the jeep in to get belts fan,alternator etc tightened and a new back box fitted a few other bits and pieces which came to 900 dollars.
since i took it back it cuts out as you take your foot of the gas and will not idle sometimes it will but eventually dies. duz any one have any advice. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1 :sick:
now blows black smoke and fuel mileage cut in half and the gas has small explosions you can feel and hear
I'd appreciate it if someone would draw the relative positions of NEUTRAL LOW and HIGH ranges for me. I've rarely used 4wd except when I'm in the mud behind the barn, and it pulls pretty good in first gear in whatever range I'm in.
This thing is no spring chicken anymore - the clutch was last changed in 1994 but the AC works and it's still pretty tight after 275,000 miles. This March, I'm getting a "new" daily driver - an '87 with only 42,000 original miles that has most likely never been in 4wd or even driven across a lawn. My "Big Blue Bus" will have it's top cut off and an awning fitted, and it will live its days out in our horse pastures and fire roads hauling feed and hay and farm wagons. Other folks with little or no experience will be using it, so I'd much rather know for certain that it's in low range.
Thanks
skill1234
Here's some food for thought.
I would check on what your comprehensive insurance will cover, so call your auto insurance company, also call the friend's, if they had a policy, to see what they're liability or comp covers.
I suspect Isuzu will deny any claims, because when it got hot, it wasn't turned off, the trouble lights were essentially ignored so that is abuse from there POV
The parts that put the parking brake on, have to be metal, so it works in an emergency, but the parts that release it, don't, so since it was so hot that it was melting plastic parts in the enginebay,it could have melted something above the TC too. I also suspect that the heat burnt up a few electric parts, this may also be the cause of the TOD issue, as the sensors could be fried.
If you get no assistance from insurance, you'll have to start fixing on your own, so...
Because it got so hot, I would change the TOD fluid, and the tranny fluid too, and it wouldn't hurt to add a cleaner to the oil and change it out.
Lastly, and this is the probably last thing on your mind, if the worst happened, one might claim against the estate if they really were burdened by the $$ damage to the rig.
Best Regards
..
1000 miles will go by very quickly, I drove over 2000 just last week.
..
I would have a look at the fuse box and then the ignition switch, there might be a relay after the ignition switch to enable all the stuff that comes on when the ignition switch is turned on.
..
Have a look at your battery cables. Put one probe from your volt meter on battery positive termial and the other on battery negative terminal, write down that voltage. Leave the positive battery terminal connected to your volt meter and move the other voltmeter lead to an exposed metal part of the engine, if you can't get the same voltage as before then you might have broken or corroded inside battery cables.
..
Keep posting results I like a puzzle.
thanks
Dave
Jacqui xx
The last 2 years (maybe 2 or 3 month intervals?), the engine might quit while starting up from stoplight (1st gear), but would restart easily or revive if I hit the gas quickly. Also, something (fuel pump??) makes noticeble mid to high (whine?) noise 1-2 minutes after engine is turned off.
Starting last summer, speedometer needle would drop suddenly to pin while driving, but then suddenly work again during driving: maybe down 3 days+. Operational since September, it quit 1/2 day in Jan or Feb.
Got a tank of bad gas approx. 2 weeks before car died & car bucked/jerked really hard all day. Ran down tank & filled with fuel w/out water & car ran about a week. Thought maybe fuel pump or inline fuel pump, but rough to access. Mechanic replaced fuel pump relay and car ran several days w/some stalling, but re-started well. Appeared car ran/re-started until engine got hot after 1 hour driving - then wouldn't restart. Would restart after sitting 10/20 minutes intervals, but now the engine just turns over. Had replaced air filter/fuel filter/& cleaned pvc valve around time of bad gas. Isuzu dealer said sparks/wires/& fuel injector flush would solve stalling, so installed new spark plugs/wires/& ran heet-type stuff, then fuel injector cleaner through tank. Since outside temp's, been down to 15F or high as 32F, I poured 1 bottle iso-heet in tank to rid of possible water, but I'm back to poss. fuel pump or fuel pump regulator or mayber something els.....???
Suggestions?
Thx,
..
I also have a very slight knock at the moment because it has a tank full of 87 Octane but the engine computer is used to 89 or 93 Octane, so I will get a bottle of injector cleaner (I am partial to the valvoline Synpower brand) which will eliminate the slight knock for this tank full and clean the injectors at the same time. I like to use higher octane fuel because it allows the engine computer to adjust the timing a more advanced which gives quicker throttle response, and the pre-ignition knock however slight and probably completely normal, bugs me, makes me think I am treating my engine poorly.
:confuse:
tidester, host
96 Trooper LS, 187k miles. The problem now - intermittently flashing check engine light. It seems to happen just before the shifts between the lower gears or when the engine is under stress, like going up a steep grade. I step on the gas, feels like nothing happens, then suddenly the light starts flashing, the RPMs jump, I accelerate and then everything goes back to normal and the light stops after a few seconds.
After the trip FROM Ohio to Mexico, I had to have the tranny rebuilt but not real confident in the work by the Mexican mechanic... it took him 7 tries, with various leaks and slippage, before he finally went to "the big city" to get NEW parts. At least he knew it was a GM tranny when I brought it in and he has honored his "warranty". And although it seems to "jerk" right now, I think it is more to do with what is going on with the Check engine light and the acceleration problem. However, I didn't have this problem before I had him work on the tranny....
I read about the "disconnecting the battery" thing to reset the sensors/computer because I did have it fueled up with the key in the "on" position, but that didn't help.
Before I left Ohio, I told the mechanic to spend whatever time he needed and do ANYTHING that he thought would/could cause problems on the trip down here. Things done recently, back in the USA at 183.8k miles:
New shocks all around
New fan clutch
New wheel seals
New radiator hoses
Air and fuel filter
pcv valve
spark plugs
1/2 shaft
Tie rod end
Idler Arm
Oil change/filter
V belt
EGR valve
Coolant fill and bleed
Drain and refill axles
Clean/repack front wheel bearings
Replace Power steering belt and pulley
Drain/Fill transfer case
lube cables and linkage
Had the water pump replaced at 170k and since they were in there, had them do the timing belt also.
Am I looking at a possible O2 sensor or something more sinister? I love my girl, got her brand new and would really like to keep her around for another 50k or so... I know she can do it. All I want is for her to get me back to the border where I can take her to a dealer, if I have to...
Help!
pv10chag
james
1.) what are the best plugs
2.) why can't my engine use anything but the original plug?
..
Question 1.) The 3.2L engines that have spark plug wires can use any spark plug that fits. And if desired might benefit from the full ignition kit available from http://www.directhits.com.
..
Question 2.) Some newer engines with coil over spark plug measure some sort of feedback from the coil over plug unit, and changing the spark plugs away from the original type can change the feedback measurement enough to confuse the engine computer.
..
If you think you might be having ignition troubles, don't forget to check the plug wires and ignition coils also.
but heres a question what is the standard issue of plugs for a 1998 isuzu rodeo LS 3.2L V6 w/coil package?
And one other thing, should i start with the plugs? My Rodeo right now has now power what so ever, i had to leave it in first gear just to get it to climb a small incline to bring it home.But if i take out the O2 sensor on the drivers side it runs like a champ but its real loud because there is a hole in the exhaust, can you give me an idea of where to start? much appreciated!
james
Steve, Host
Good Luck.
Howard
Had another friend tell me the same thing. Also said that with the recent transmission work, could be a problem with linkage out of alignment... Gonna have both things checked.
Thanks again!
pv10chag
PREDATOR
Thanks
a full radiator within 50 miles. It never leaks when the engine is cold and stopped. Nobody can find the leak..! but everyone agrees it's between the rear of the engine and
the firewall, and there is only about two inches between the two and you can't see where it's leaking from. Does anyone know where the leak is from...?
There is NO water in the oil.