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Isuzu Owners Maintenance and Repair

1969799101102109

Comments

  • bahmedbahmed Posts: 66
    I recently changed the spark plugs on my 1998 Rodeo, V6, 3.2L and Had the same question, I did the extensive research and when I took the old plugs out, they were Champion Double Platinum RC10PYP4, stock No: 7346, they come pre-gapped at 0.044. They are available at AutoZone, ORiely Auto Parts Stores, just ask for Champion Double Platinum, Stock No : 7346, they were i believe $5 a piece. The later model Rodeo, V6 engines were changed to Denso Spark Plugs as they come with a new Ion Sensing Emission Systems etc. 1998 Rodeo, V6 suppose to work with any Platinum plugs, at least this is what I read on most of the posts.
  • setiansetian Posts: 1
    There is a serious problem with the http://setian3.smugmug.com/gallery/1320127. The alternator has ripped the block that holds it in place. I basically need a new engine block. The insurance company says they will not cover it because they believe it is due to previous improper repairs (e.g., Someone did not tighten one or more of the bolts securely enough. This led to the alternator ripping out of the remaining bolts). Has anyone ever had this happen to them?
  • steverstever Viva Las CrucesPosts: 41,273
    I'm having trouble with your link; looks like this is it though.

    Steve, Host

    Moderator
    Minivan fan. Feel free to message or email me - stever@edmunds.com.

  • Check engine light refers to oxygen sensors. Sensors have a lifetime of 70K-100K miles. I believe there are four individual sensors. Oxygen sensors operate at very high temperatures and thus wear out. When they become intermittent the car can perform badly. Any reasonable mechanic can find the bad one and replace it. I replaced one of the sensors in 2000, cost $110 then.

    Good Luck.

    Howard
  • pv10chagpv10chag Posts: 2
    Thanks Howard...

    Had another friend tell me the same thing. Also said that with the recent transmission work, could be a problem with linkage out of alignment... Gonna have both things checked.

    Thanks again!

    pv10chag
  • predatorpredator Posts: 3
    Hi to all Trooper owners out there. How's things your side of the big pond?

    PREDATOR
  • i wanted to see if someone could help me with my problem that I have with my 2000 Rodeo. I have oil getting into my 1 and 3 sparkplug wells. I had this problem for 2 years. Everytime I bring it to a mechanic they say it is the valve cover gaskets, they have been changed 3 times and i still have the problem, can someone please help me!

    Thanks
  • my914my914 Posts: 1
    Hi my 94 trooper will only run when I spray gas in the throttle body but will not run on its own,fuel injectors have no fire when tested,Is this a ECM problem or just bad wiring or injectors.Thanks
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I think the spark plug wells are press fit at the bottom, and may leak a little when temerature is changing. I had a half teaspoon of oil in the spark plug wells on my 3.2L 1995 Trooper, it did not cause trouble. Maybe head bolts need re-torquing?
  • Help,... Anyone... My 1994 Rodeo 4WD LS 3.2 Liter will leak
    a full radiator within 50 miles. It never leaks when the engine is cold and stopped. Nobody can find the leak..! but everyone agrees it's between the rear of the engine and
    the firewall, and there is only about two inches between the two and you can't see where it's leaking from. Does anyone know where the leak is from...?

    There is NO water in the oil.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, I checked for Isuzu technical service bulletins for oil leakage on your year engine and could find none. I believe that on older SOHC Isuzu engines, replacing the spark plug wire was called for in the event of leakage. I don't know if that would apply in your case. It would only make a difference if your spark plug wires also served to seal the valve cover. Might be worth looking at.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, found this for your vehicle from Isuzu. If the heater core is leaking into the vehicle, you might not find much evidence on the ground until you have a swampy interior. Seems like you would smell the glycol though or see some evidence of where it is leaking if it is between the engine and firewall and not the heater core.

    1994 Isuzu Truck Rodeo (4WD) V6-3165cc 3.2L SOHC (6VD1)
    Vehicle Level Technical Service Bulletins Customer Interest Heater Core - Coolant Leakage


    Heater Core - Coolant Leakage


    BULLETIN NUMBER:
    SB00-12-S003

    ISSUE DATE:
    JUNE 2000

    GROUP:
    HEATING AND A/C

    HEATER CORE AND CASING LEAKAGE
    (SUPERSEDES SB00-12-S001)

    NOTE : Shaded information reflects changes from previous service bulletin.

    AFFECTED VEHICLES

    ^ 1997 and prior Rodeo (UC) models

    ^ All 1995 and prior Pickup (TF) - SIA built models

    Condition:
    Coolant leakage may be present near the heater core area.

    Possible Cause:
    Aluminum-type core may have eroded resulting in a leak

    Correction:
    To correct this condition, install revised (copper) heater core and casing to replace the existing (aluminum) heater core and casing.

    SERVICE PROCEDURE

    Refer to published procedure in the appropriate Workshop Manual.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Well, I don't know who or how you checked the injectors for fire, but the ecm controls the injectors. It seems unlikely that the engine would run if the ecm was bad, but not impossible. More likely,Is there a possibility that the fuel pump or filter are not working/clogged been checked out? The fuel injectors for the DOHC engine only require about 2 V to work, the SOHC is much higher,about 10 V but still very hard to pick up without the proper digital Multimeter (dmm) with a range lock or hold on it.
    Do NOT check resistance on the ECM itself, as it is solid state and damage could result. Good luck
  • joecwelljoecwell Posts: 7
    My apologies if this has already been answered before ... I saw the question posted previously but didn't see an answer anywhere.

    I have replaced brake and turn signal bulbs in the back of my Trooper before with no problem ... there are obvious screws that allow the bulb unit (lenses and all) to be pulled away from the vehicle so the bulbs can be unhooked and replaced.

    But the turn signal bulbs in the front of the car seem to be a different story. The plastic lens covers have no visible screws, and the bulbs do not seem to be accessible by hand from the back of the unit by just opening the hood and reaching in (like the headlight bulbs are). I noticed one screw under the hood that looks like it loosens the top of the bulb housing unit, but there is obviously more than thing holdng it in there because it still barely moves when that single screw is taken out.

    I'm usually pretty good at figuring out where the other bolts are, unless of course it is designed so that you have to take out lots of other things before you can even see them. Before I go overboard disassembling the front of my Trooper, can someone tell me the correct way to change the front turn signal bulbs? I'm assuming I must just be missing something obvious since the rear is so simple.

    Thanks in advance -
    Joe
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Here is a link and instructions to the picture: http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a2c5d8

    Disconnect the battery ground cable.
    Remove the screw at the upper portion of the light bracket, and remove the bracket from the fender.
    Remove the front combination light (1).
    Remove the turn signal light socket (3) by turning it counterclockwise.
    Remove the bulb (2) by turning it counterclockwise while pushing it at the same time.
    Installation
    To install, follow the removal steps in the reverse order.
  • joecwelljoecwell Posts: 7
    Thanks much for the directions and picture.

    I apparently had actually started down the correct path, because I had removed the screw on the upper part of the bracket. But the bracket sure seemed to be still in there pretty tight, and I was worried I would crack the plastic if I tried to force it much harder than I already had. Do you know whether there is any trick to popping it out after the screw is removed ... like grabbing onto a certain part or side of the bracket and/or pulling in some specific direction? Like should it be grabbed on the edge in the front of the vehicle and pulled toward the side of the vehicle, or grab the edge on the side of the vehicle and pulled toward the front? Or some other way?

    Or, should it actually just pop out by itself easily after removing the screw, in which case mine might just need a little muscle after such a long time having never been removed?

    Thanks -
    Joe
  • rick2456rick2456 Posts: 320
    I had a 95.5 Rodeo V6 with the same problem. The isuzu fix was to replace the spark plug wires which included a seal to keep oil out of the spark plug well. Does nothing to stop the leak however. Good luck.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I would just be guessing, but I think you are on to it if you just work it a little to see if it is just a little sticky. Maybe once it starts loosening you can see more of it. The manual does not give any better explanation. I would think that if you bounced the heel of your hand on the outside lense you might get a feel for how stuck it is....remove the screw first though!! LOL I would guess trying to lift the assembly might dislodge it IF it is just hooked on the bottom to a slot in a tab in the fender.Maybe someone else has your model and will chip in. Good luck.
  • makayemakaye Posts: 81
    What you will find is that there is a stud on the back side of the turn signal lamp assy. That stud goes into the inner fender and is held in place with a white plastic ring in a slip arrangement, held in with friction only. Over time, that thing gets pretty stuck. You may be able to use a flashlight to squirt some silicone on the ring and stud to get it out. I ended up using a thin screwdriver with a long handle and splitting the little ring, discarding it. The lamp assy. still fits snug, but after 1/2 a day trying I got frustrated. There is no way to get anything behind the stud to help push it out of the ring. :mad: I even removed the grille and the metal brackets around the headlamp, AND the headlamp trying to get at it. No go. The hole the stud goes through is just fractionally bigger than the plastic ring, so it is not a big deal to me. Nothing wiggles with the upper screw back in place.
    I was even thinking of trying to thread a thin wire around the back of the lamp assy. and pulling it forward, like a sling. However, there is a decorative rubber molding on the side of the assy. that would have been damaged.
    So, I made a "shadetree modification" to the design.
  • joecwelljoecwell Posts: 7
    Thanks for the information on the back stud, cuz that now makes sense why it still seems to be in there very firm even with the screw out. Thanks also for the tip on the engineering change :)!

    Obviously Isuzu must have split the workload on the original designs of the front bulb brackets and the rear ones between different engineers :).

    Thanks again to both you and atfdmike for the helpful info.

    Joe
  • makayemakaye Posts: 81
    Suction cup on the face of the lamp assembly?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I don't know how you have made out so far, but I looked through Isuzu Technical service bulletins and found one for 1999. You don't specify which motor you have in your Rodeo, but if you think it would help, I can email you next week with the entire bulletin. This is just the subject matter for the TSB I found. It goes in to greater detail in the complete bulletin.
    BULLETIN NUMBER:
    SB96-01-L004
    ISSUE DATE:
    APRIL 1996
    GROUP:
    ENGINE
    TROOPER (UX) AND RODEO (UC) 6VD1 SOHC
    SPARK PLUG TUBE REPLACEMENT

    (Supersedes SB96-01-L001, to include sublet allowance information)

    APPLICABLE VEHICLES

    Trooper (UX) and Rodeo (UC) models equipped with 6VD1 SOHC engine.
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hey there! Noticed your shout out and no reply, so Hi back to you, and don't go thinking all Americans are "ugly" or rude. I have a 94 Trooper myself. Best to you.
  • Hello, I hope that you can help. Last week my TOD check light began flashing, and has not stopped since. I spoke to the dealership and they want me to drop it off for testing and possible repairs. I know that they are going to charge me a lot of money that I don't have to repair it. Have you heard of this problem??? any suggestions
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    I suggest that you try a search in this forum and the trooper forum to see what other owners have found with this problem. Just type TOD or torque on demand in the search window at the top of the page in the forums you wish to search. Supply a little more specific information about your vehicle too, like year, model, engine and transmission type. You should get quicker and more specific information that way. Good luck.
  • I have a 1998 Trooper with the 3.5L engine and automatic transmission and about 92,000 miles.

    Yesterday, I noticed that the engine was cranking a little slowly, as if the battery were going dead. While driving, I noticed that my iPod, which was plugged into the cigarette lighter, didn't appear to be charging although the light on the charger was on. Later in the day, I stopped to get gas and the engine wouldn't start. It sounded like it didn't have enough power to crank the engine. I got a jump start and the engine started fine. I drove to the store to get a new battery but it turned out that my battery was fully charged and in good shape. I tried jumpstarting the engine again, to no avail.

    Before I turned off the engine at the battery store, the engine was running fine. I have driven cars when the alternator went out, leading to a drained or dead battery. You had to rev the engine at stop lights to generate enough power to keep it running. That wasn't the case with the Trooper. It seemed to idle and run fine and the voltage meter was showing the normal reading.

    When I try starting the engine I can hear a loud clicking, like the solenoid (starter solenoid?) but so far I haven't been able to find the solenoid.

    I'm assuming this could be a problem with A) the solenoid; B) the starter; C) the alternator or D) a loose connection or wiring problem.

    Any thoughts or suggestions on where to start?

    I don't have a repair manual for this vehicle. I am considering buying one to diagnose and repair this problem. I also ran across an online site/service called AllData offered by AutoZone. It appears to be an online version of the factory-type repair manual used by mechanics. Does anyone have any experience with this service? Am I better off buying the manual or having a year's worth of access to the online manual for about $25?

    Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions would be welcome.

    Thanks
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    This is an excerpt from the professional version of alldatapro.com. for your year and model vehicle. I am not personally familiar with the version you could access through autozone, but if you can follow basic diagnostic ideas, it could be the way to go. In this case, you could also backtrack the manual to find the connector picture that would also help identify the right terminal. A manual provides similar information, but the search function online in the alldatapro database really helps with ideas when you reach the inevitable impasse. Maybe you can determine if it has this function prior to enrolling. Good luck.




    The operating condition of charging system is indicated by the charge warning lamp. The warning lamp comes on when the starter switch is turned to "ON" position. The charging system operates normally if the lamp goes OFF when the engine starts.
    If the warning lamp shows abnormality or if undercharged or overcharged battery condition is suspected, perform diagnosis by checking the charging system as follows:

    Check visually the belt and wiring connector.
    With the engine stopped, turn the switch to "ON" position and observe the warning lamp. If lamp does not comes ON : Disconnect wiring connector from generator, and ground the terminal "L" on connector side. If lamp comes ON : Repair or replace the generator.
  • millejo1millejo1 Posts: 3
    I have the exact same problem. No solution yet though. I believe, but am unsure, that the TOD system uses transmission fluid and that there is a way to checkt he level of fluid for just the TOD. Anyone know about that or how to check and fill it if needed?
  • millejo1millejo1 Posts: 3
    I recently replaced the starter on my '99 trooper. I am unsure if it's even remotely related, but quite soon afterwards, my TOD light began to flash slowly, and ocasionally fast. I suspect perhaps the fluid is low but do not know where to check it. Can anyone help please help me with this?
  • atfdmikeatfdmike Posts: 414
    Hi, I don't know think there would be a relationship between the two events, but these are directions for performing the fluid check. As you discovered, there is no dipstick. I have posted a picture that the directions refer to at : http://www.carspace.com/atfdmike/.59a349cd!v=
    Be very careful when working under a running vehicle. You should chock the wheels to insure it will not move while underneath it. I hope this helps you.

    1999 Isuzu Truck Trooper V6-3.5L
    Vehicle Level Maintenance Fluids Fluid - A/T Testing and Inspection
    Testing and Inspection
    CHECKING TRANSMISSION FLUID LEVEL AND CONDITION
    Checking fluid level and condition (color and odor) at regular intervals will provide early diagnosis information about the transmission. This information may be used to correct a condition that, if not detected early, could result in major transmission repairs.

    IMPORTANT.- When new, automatic transmission fluid is red in color. As the vehicle is driven, the transmission fluid will begin to look darker in color. The color may eventually appear light brown.

    A dark brown color with burnt odor may indicate excessive fluid deterioration and signal a need for fluid change.

    FLUID LEVEL
    When adding or changing fluid, use only DEXRON (R) -III.

    CAUTION: DO NOT OVERFILL. Overfilling will cause foaming, loss of fluid, abnormal shifting and possible damage to the transmission.

    Park the vehicle on level ground and apply the parking brake firmly.
    Check fluid level with engine running at idle. NOTE: Be sure that transmission fluid temperature is below 30 °C (86 °F).
    Move the selector lever through all gear ranges.
    Move the selector lever to "Park".
    Let engine idle for 3 minutes and open the overfill screw (1).
    Add released ( this means proper grade) transmission fluid until it flows out over the overfill screw opening.
    Let engine idle until a fluid temperature between 32 °C (90 °F) and 57 °C (135 °F) is reached, then close the overfill screw (1). Torque: 38 Nm (28 ft. lbs.) NOTE: Check transmission fluid temperature with scan tool. Minimum fluid level 57 °C (135 °F) Maximum fluid level 32 °C (90 °F)
    CAUTION: Do not open overfill screw with engine stopped.

    CAUTION: DO NOT CHECK FLUID LEVEL UNDER THESE CONDITIONS:
    Immediately after driving at sustained highway speeds.
    In heavy city traffic during hot weather.
    If vehicle is towing a trailer.
    If the vehicle has been operated under these conditions, shut the engine off and allow the vehicle to "cool" for thirty (30) minutes. After the cool down period, restart the vehicle and continue from step 2 above.
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