Isuzu Modifications/Aftermarket/Accessories

pinoy99 · May 2001

Superwinch ... part# 400533

Warn ....part#61385 note: this part is only listed for '87-93 BUT will fit all 17 spline Troopers(read: '87 - PRESENT).

Several vendors come to mind:

http://www.hotrod-offroad.com or

http://www.4wheelparts.com or

http://www.accessconnect.com/index.htm

Superwinch should go for about $90 while Warn will be around $120.

conman2000 · May 2001

Hi,
My neighbor painted his with a spray can and I left mine cause it looked like the paint is ok. Since we installed it at the same time, we will see in a few years.

I had a HH before on my Sidekick and did not paint it too and the only rust I saw was at the receiver hole. They seems to use good paint.

As for pics, do check Paisan's website. I took some 35mm pics of the hitch install and took some pics of the wire harness install with my wife's new digital camera I just bought for me(sorry for her) B-day present!

Will get the them to Paisan when I get back from FL for my Bro's Wedding.

Have a great weekend All!

Cheers,
Con

paisan · May 2001

I'll get those part #s for the warn locking hubs up in the FAQ section of the webpage and pics from Conman after this weekend. I'm leaving tonight to drive out to Ann Arbor. Anyone in PA or OH on Rte 80 tonight look for me

-mike

sdc2 · May 2001

I have heard that the Warn hubs are much stouter than the Superwinch hubs, which explains why they cost more...

viktoria_r · May 2001

I have 00 Trooper which came with Yakima(?) ski/snowboard roof rack. To make long story short, one of my cross-bars(?) (black things that go across the roof) is missing. I contacted st charles isuzu, they are willing to sell me the whole thing (not just missing part) for $279. I was wondering if someone has installed aftermarket rack and does not need their stock rack anymore. I will consider buying in the future. email viktoria_r@hotmail.com

keepontroopin · May 2001

Viktoria why don't you just contact Yakima and get another bar.

www.yakima.com

cwmoser · May 2001

You were wondering about what the Hidden Hitch looks like on the Trooper check out:

http://www.isuzu.8k.com/TrailerHitch.htm

I've seen other hitches that have a lot of hardware hanging down (Draw Tight, Reece, etc) and looks kinda tacky. I think that you will find that the Hidden Hitch is the way to go for the Trooper.

viktoria_r · May 2001

I looked at Yakima website - they do not list Trooper ski racks as available. will call them for clarificatios because Isuzu website says they are Yakima.

sbcooke · May 2001

outdoorsports.com...I got a entire Thule rack for about $180, no tax and about $15 in shipping. You will have to remove the factory installed one, but they have the best prices on the web I have found. I imagine their Yakima Prices are similar.

catmandu · May 2001

Check out R E I in Seattle. They had a 20% off sale on Yakima racks, We just bought one for our 01. Works great with out Packasport carrier. The only drawback is the wind noise, we take the rack off when not using.

radman6 · May 2001

If all you need is another round bar you can get one at anyplace that carries Yakima racks. The bar is generic - they fit all Yakima racks - you just need to measure the one you have and get another one the same length. The bars are relatively cheap to replace if you already have the towers - around $40.00 for two bars.

sdc2 · June 2001

No, the Isuzu "ski rack" does not use the standard Yakima crossbars. It is more like a OEM rack.

keepontroopin · June 2001

Sorry about the title of this message, but I had to make fun of the title of the previous message title.

Viktoria if I understand this correctly you had the Isuzu special promotion Yakima rack on your Trooper and you have replaced it with a new Thule rack...right? If so would you be interested in selling your Yak rack that came with the trooper. Please let me know. You can e-mail me at chapla.t@mellon.com. I understand you are missing the one cross bar. By the way what happened to it?

crunchy · June 2001

Hey Terry, how's your CD player working?

Sue

viktoria_r · June 2001

No, I have Yakima rack, but one cross bar is missing. And this OEM cross bar is NOT round. It's kinda ovalesque in cross-section. (long story - rack was not mounted on top when we bought the car, parts of it were in cargo area, my husband didn't look if there was whole set. by the time we discovered that a piece was missing it was too late). I looked on Yakima website - they sell ROUND crossbars, totally different from mine. I guess I need what you call Yakima "special promotion" OEM crossbar to make my rack complete, because with a crossbar missing rack is unusable. I don't want to sell! I meant if someone had installed an aftermarket rack and wants to sell their OEM Yakima rack (provided it's same as mine) I would consider buying.

keepontroopin · June 2001

The CD player is working great. Thanks for the deal on it. I installed it in about a half hour and everything fit perfectly. Looks like you guys had some fun on your offroading trip. Talk to you later.

sdc2 · June 2001

Viktoria, you have the "ski rack" sold by Isuzu but made by Yakima...it is a unique item to Isuzu and is not interchangeable with the standard Yakima rack systems. You may already know this but I wanted to clarify for everybody...

I would call Yakima directly, maybe they can slip you a crossbar separately without buying a whole nother rack.

viktoria_r · June 2001

Called Yakima - they gave me Yak part# and corresponding Isuzu part # for cross bar. They said that I should try ordering via Isuzu dealer. I contacted st charles isuzu, gave them part #, will see what they will come up with.

sahara111 · June 2001

Thanks to everyone who replied! Again, this site has proven to be a great resource.

Now, the big question: do you think that a place like 4 Wheel Parts & Perf. will be able to do a PROPER (correct) install of the Warn manual hubs??? I'm real concerned about it. May do my own, but my father will not be able to do his and he lives far from me.

Thanks.

radman6 · June 2001

Installed my Hidden hitch last night and was disappointed to find that not all the holes were pre-drilled in the frame. Had to drill two 1/2 inch holes in the frame to get the last two bolts in. Some of the other bolts were pretty tough to get started. Hidden Hitch provided an odd set of mis-matched hardware - washers were the wrong size and there weren't enough. The bolts didn't appear to be grade 5 or above which is what I would normally use to mount a hitch.

The tab nuts (flexible wire with a weird shaped nut on the end) were a pain to line up and get the hitch mounting bolts started in. Maximum allowable tourqe for the tab nuts was only 34 or 38 lbs. Fortunately there were two plastic plugs on the side of the frame right next to where the hitch mounted. I was able to pull out the plugs, insert the tab nuts inside the frame and line them up correctly.

Took a little over an hour to do the whole job by myself with pneumatic tools,torque wrench, drill with 1/2 inch bit, and a few bad words. Also spent about 30 minutes the day before cleaning, masking and painting the hitch - it had a poor paint job and lots of scuffs / scratches.

Now that it's on I think it looks pretty good and it should work fine. I like the fact that most of the hitch is hidden behind the bumper. All that actually shows is the receiver.

From reading earlier posts it sounds like most folks had an easier time with the install. Just my bad luck I guess. I've installed at least 6 other hitches on previous vehicles - usually in 30 minutes or less - with better hardware.

central · June 2001

Having did my own Superwinch install, and not being a wrench-head, it would seem to me that any decent shop could EASILY do this install. That being said someone on another site recently had such an install done and reported some oil or grease seepage from the new hub. Suggestions ranged from the shop having messed up the Superwinch gaskets, to not using RTV, to too much oil added during the install (a few drops should do it). Maybe the job is almost too easy and a beginning mechanic got assigned the work and botched something.

As a DIY project my suggestions are to refer to the writeup at http://www.outdoorwire.com/4x4/isuzu/. Also, make sure you don't lose the shims. They tend to stick to the hub, at least on my 1999 Trooper, until you go looking for them. In addition make sure you have the proper allen wrenches for the job. I also did not pound off the hub bolts as suggested. Instead I added a piece of pipe to my metric allen wrench for extra leverage. This seemed a better approach to me but then again like I said I am no mechanic.

For what it is worth, I probably would have purchased the premium Warn hubs had I know they were available at the time. However, since doing the install and reading about the pros and cons of premium Warn (not the basic level product) and Superwinch I think I would stay with Superwinches as they seem to be just as reliable and cheaper. Seemingly the hardcore offroaders would go with rebuilt AISIN hubs due to their supposed superior strength.

Depending on your mileage, you may also want to grease your front wheel bearing as part of the hub job as your will be 1/2 way there.

crunchy · June 2001

I, too just installed a Hidden Hitch. I'll do a full write up, with pictures, very soon, but let me just say that HH has a long way to go in the customer support area. First, the hitch was shipped in a box with no packing materials -- just the box. Next, the instructions were incorrect about (1) what needs to be removed from the truck (2001 Trooper), and (2) which bolts go where. I had to go look at someone else's trooper that has a HH on it to see how it was supposed to go. Stock holes on the frame were 3 on the right and 2 on the left. I had 2 bolts left over, but I figured they were extra. I didn't drill any holes in my frame.

All in all, what should have been a very simple job (how hard can it be to screw 5 bolts into 5 pre-drilled holes?) was a big PITA.

Anyway, I'm going to do a write up with correct instructions and pictures in case anybody else might want to use it as a reference.

-Sue

paisan · June 2001

that's weird. 10 min for Conman, 30 min for me, no drilling...

I wonder if we all got the same part #s?

-mike

dchopp · June 2001

I was going to install a HH on my Rodeo but what I have read here, it lookes like I will install another brand. It sounds like HH customer service need a few phone calls about there quality.
DCH

sbcooke · June 2001

I would drill the holes in the frame and attach the extra bolts. The hitch is rated for a certain amount, now you are only planning on towing 2500 lbs, but 5 years from now you have to move something that is 4500 lbs? Who knows how the hitch will perform under stress and after a long period of time.

When I added my Bull Bar I had a similar experience, i.e. the parts were not all right and I had to buy new bolts, etc. I bought all grade 8 bolts. Drilling into the frame put me off at first, but I did it and it was easier and better than I thought. A 3/8" bit which is about 9.x mm, was perfect, and the 10 mm bolts went in easily with a ratchet. I would also review what grade bolts they gave you, anything less than Grade 5 might not hold up under stress. Most Metric Steel are Grade 8.8 or something like that, out of the box.

I also sprayed all the bolts after they were in with rustoleum. I didn't want any rust problems later.

gpm5 · June 2001

Mine went on very easily, in about an hour by myself but that included cleaning the weld nuts in the frame and taking my time. The directions seemed clear to me, although they show only one bolt on the left when there are two. You do have to get under the truck and make sure which bolts thread in where first. My sequoia hitch has three bolts on each side and can tow 6500 lbs. The two bolts on the left on the trooper are quite large (12 mm rated at grade 8.8 and use 64 ft lbs of torque) and I don't think any others are needed for towing up to 5000 lbs. The two that go into the tow hook spot are 10 mm grade 8.8 and use 36 ft lbs of torque. The 3rd one on the right is a 1/2 in bolt and is a grade 5. I didn't use any tab nuts--no need for drilling.

paisan · June 2001

Ditto what GPM said.

-mike

conman2000 · June 2001

I heard some other people on this board that had to drill. I think some years of the 92-97 did not have all holes drilled and it appears the 98+ Troopers had no problems. I too had two bolts leftover which seem to fit the nut tabs for those who needed to drill. Yes the instructions should have been more clearer as I noticed the bolts, washer and nuts were not labeled so I just pre-tested them in the holes first to see what went where as there were two sizes of lock washers as well.

I took some pics as well and will give them to Paisan soon.

Cheers,
Con

P.S. Has anyone seen the factory hitch? From the pics it appears to be a HH model as it is hidden.

catmandu · June 2001

I just installed the hidden hitch this afternoon(between storms) Mine was also on a 01 S model. The part no. was 87544. Didnt need the tab nuts, as weld nuts worked. I agree with Crunchy, the instructions could have been better. All in all it was a one beer(30 min.) job,but I stretched it to two. I bought the adjustable ball mount (60 bucks) from J C Whitneys and the locking hitch pin. It sticks out past the spare on the top holes, so it will give some protection from a rear hit.

conman2000 · June 2001

Cool. BTW, did you get the Lund bug guard too? I remember seeing a post at the wire about it.

Cheers,
Con

gpm5 · June 2001

I thought radman had a new trooper? BTW catmandu, some people will not agree with you're using your tow bar/ball mount for protection--even though it will keep the bumper banging people away while parking..

I believe that the factory hitch is below the bumper all the way across.

emiura · June 2001

My '99 Trooper came with a factory hitch. I didn't need it, but the dealer did not want to remove it, so I bought the truck as is. It is not same as the HH. The whole thing hangs below the bumper (not hidden). I see eleven bolts holding it (4 on one side and 5 on the other). It helped to protect the exhaust pipe from damage when I was running Moab trails, as the end of the hitch is just inside/below the pipe, and I dragged the hitch many times on steep slopes.

For anyone thinking about installing an aftermarket hitch, I'd recommend the HH for its appearance.

If anyone is interested, I can post a picture of the factory hitch. Let me know.

...Eiji...

emiura · June 2001

That's nine (9) bolts (4 plus 5) holding the factory hitch. Sorry.

conman2000 · June 2001

Wow. Nine! That is a lot of bolts! It is nice that it protects the tailpipe though. If you can please post a picture. I would like to see where the other bolts are located. I will post the pics of the HH when I get home tonight.

Cheers,
Con

duktrooper · June 2001

There's a lot of discussion on these hitches. I have a Drawtite, and while it rests just below the rear bumper and behind the gas tank, I see that as a major benefit as it will protect both and the tailpipe on rough trails. It really doesn't look that bad....just not as discrete as the HH, which I agree looks better. I like Drawtite for its balance between looks and functionality. My .02.

emiura · June 2001

Here is a picture of Factory Hitch on my Trooper:

More pics, including bolt locations, are here:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1704418&a=13160016

...Eiji...

catmandu · June 2001

Con, the bug screen Whitney sent me was wrong. Called them today and they said it is on back order, finally got someone with the grey matter functioning. If you order one, tell them it is for a 2000 model, and the lund number is 18080. GPM, I know the ball mount will not protect from a real smack, I just want the bumper-bangers to think twice---hope it works. The large adjustable ball mount is beefy and does stick out past the spare.

ricksrl · June 2001

Hey,I'm wondering what class hitch we are all talking about. As I posted before mine is suposed to be a class IV and a total of six bolts, three each side, and I had to drill two holes in the frame for the extras and had no hardware left over. I thought the instruction were fine.
Just my .02

Rick
2000 Trooper

paisan · June 2001

Hey guys, just to let you know. Matt from Indy was here today, measuring up and doing the final fitting of crunchy's side steps/boulder bars. He mentioned that he now carry's a ton of aftermarket parts including tires, rims, rancho shocks,etc. etc. He is hooked up with National Tire and another whole-saler so e-mail him if you want to get stuff for your trucks, it'll be nice to support him in his efforts especially because he is an Isuzu specific retailer/builder.

-mike

conman2000 · June 2001

Wow, looks like the factory hitch uses the rear bumper bolts as well as the bolts that the HH uses. Look much beefier than any other hitch out there. I thought I had some digital pictures of the hitch but just realized I took 35mm pics of the install so I don't have the pictures. I have the class III hitch. I noticed the class IV HH was dropped as per the HH website.

Cheers,
Con

paisan · June 2001

In order to use a weight distributing hitch when using a class IV hitch. I believe that it is required.

-mike

gpm5 · June 2001

I think that 87544 is a class III/IV hitch.

conman2000 · June 2001

The 82544(DISCONTINUED) was the III/IV hitch and the 87544 is a Class III only hitch(which is what I have). I noticed on hitch-web.com that they have the Drawtite hitch which is a III/IV and it looks just like the factory one as it has more bolt locations. It cost $200 there so the $119 for the HH seems to be a better value but the Drawtite looks like it is built much stronger though. But since the Trooper can tow up to 5,000 pounds, the Class IV(7,500 pounds) is more than the Trooper can handle(That might be why HH dropped that model cause the class III is much easier to install it appears).
BTW, the Uhaul Round hitch for the Rodeo is $160 on their website(no Trooper model it appears).

Cheers,
Con

radman6 · June 2001

After reading the posts above I went out and looked at the mounting hardware again in better light. Most of the bolts were stamped 8.8. They are marked a little differently than I'm used to. (No raised marks on bolt head) so HH got that part right.

I had two large bolts and several washers left over. I didn't have enough of the right size washers to do the job right. It took me awhile to figure out which bolt went where. I suspect this hitch was made for more than one application - which would explain the extra hardware.

I did have to drill 1/2 inch holes in the frame on each side to get the last two bolts in. There were no holes / weld nuts for the last two half inch bolts on my 2000 S. It's a bit awkward to drill the holes. You need a good 1/2 inch bit and a strong variable speed drill (drill at lower speed to keep from burning / blueing your bit). The hot shavings tend to fall all over you when you drill so wear some eye protection. I used the holes in the hitch frame as a guide to drill the holes in the correct place after it was mounted with the other bolts. I don't consider these bolts to be optional. They're critical to the integrity of the hitch - especially if you haul anything heavy.

To those who might be put off by the installation issues, I wouldn't worry about it too much. If you like the looks of the HH and can use a drill and a wrench I'd say go for it. If your frame isn't pre-drilled with all the weld nuts you'll probably have to drill holes with any hitch you buy. Even with a few difficulties I had it on in a little over an hour by myself - plus 30 minutes the day before to paint it.

emiura · June 2001

I’ve been looking for a roof rack to carry skis on my Trooper for last two years. I didn’t care for the type that installs over the doors, and I didn’t want to tap any holes on the roof.

Recently, my wife went to Japan and got me a roof rack “carrier base kit” made by Isuzu. The kit consists of four base blocks that are installed at the existing threaded holes under the trim. Standard Thule gutter-mount feet can be attached to these bases. It even came with replacement “cut” trims to replace the original trims, and all necessary bolts and a pack of sealer. Haven’t installed them yet, but they seem to be well designed and functional. I don’t know why Isuzu does not offer this kit in the U.S.

I’d been corresponding with an Isuzu dealer in Japan, but problem was that they couldn’t do mail order sales to the U.S., and they did not accept credit card for payment. They delivered the kit to an address in Japan, and payment was later made directly to the dealer’s bank acct. (We actually got the item before paying for it. Strange, but common practice in Japan.) I didn’t expect the package to be this long (because of the replacement trims), so I got some complaints from my wife for carrying it.

…Eiji…

crunchy · June 2001

Paisan said:

<<Matt from Indy was here today, measuring up and doing the final fitting of crunchy's side steps/boulder bars.>>

Hey Mike & Matt, any pictures of them yet??

-Sue

paisan · June 2001

But they look good. He's getting em powdercoated and I believe he'll be shipping em at the end of the week.

-mike

conman2000 · June 2001

Hi,
I saw them on the Japan website. Looks good and will cause less wind noise since it is only two rails like on the Suzuki GV. Then you can add the Thule or similar cross bars which will hold more than the US Isuzu/Yakima ski rack. What was the cost of the kit? I am interested in it as well.

I think it is not available in the US because of the tipping scare which would cause the center of gravity to be higher if you really load it up because us US folks don't understand what CG is.

Cheers,
Con

paisan · June 2001

I have a contact in Australia, who is getting me pricing on:

fender markers for trooper

3rd row of Isuzu seats

isuzu roof rack

rear bumpers w/built in tail lights

you can get a taste from

http://www.holden.com.au

-mike

sdc2 · June 2001

I always suspected Australia had better aftermarket support than the US...

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