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I just got off the phone with the dealership, and they said that they will diagnose it for free, but that if the cause is a different issue then I will have to pay for the repair.
I don't want to be unreasonable, but does this sound right? How do I know if they diagnosed the problem correctly during the first visit?
My faith has been restored: turned out it was the wiring harness, but they worked with me and repaired it for free.
Not sure if this is somehow related to the work they did (just b/c of the timing) but who knows.
As frustrating as this has been, this continues to be the best car I have ever owned from a pure driving perspective. This has got me questioning how much I want to pay for this privilege though.
Will keep you posted.
Unrelated to the airbag light, so I'm out-of-pocket on this one but hopefully there isn't much more of this [wishful thinking?].
The SA said that he usually sees these go while still under warranty.
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Took it to my indie mechanic. It took him a little while to diagnose. Belt with a chunk missing. Got out of there all better for $80.
Left front shock is leaking. He says they should probably be replaced at 103K miles, and suggests that i buy used m3 springs from some guy online and have him slap on bilsteins. Whole thing ought to cost $400 or so. Not sure if i want my car lowered, though.
Also, my oil light comes on (blinks, then gets stronger) when my engine idles at red lights after driving awhile. I checked the oil and it is OK. Dealer says it is the oil level sensor going bad and not to worry about it. What do you guys think?
kdyfx - I value your input if you can oblige.
2. If your red oil light is illuminating it is indicating VERY low oil pressure. The reason could be as simple as a bad sensor but it could also indicate other more serious problems. What oil are you using? I'd recommend Mobil 1 0W-40 or 15W-50.
Please don't value my opinion when it comes to mechanical problems.. The only tools I own are under that flap in the trunk of the car.. My only other tools are experience and logic.
regards,
kyfdx
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I use Castrol 5w30 synthetic.
Thanks for the advice.
I was wondering if anyone had a fix for this as I have same prob too on my 323i Coupe ???
Thanks for your help.
I apologize if this subject has been beaten to death already!
Basically, you get what you pay for. A late model BMW will run on 87, 89 or any Premium grade. Having said that, by using a lower grade of fuel, you will hamstring your ride, and as such, not get full performance or all of the mileage that you car is capable of. Why? Because by using a lower grade of fuel your cars' OBC retards the ignition timing to keep the combustion process from damaging your engine. When the timing is retarded, performance in the form of acceleration and fuel mileage suffer. How much does it suffer? By most accounts the extra miles in a tank full of Premium more than offsets the cheaper cost of Regular gasoline.
Best Regards,
Shipo
A friend suggested me to change engine oil right after the break-in period (say 1000 mil). It sounds like a good idea: flushing out any unwanted particles for a new engine.
The recommended maintainance is still more than 14K miles away. Is it a good idea to request the dealer to do this extra engine oil change on my money?
Best Regards,
Shipo
By the way, thanks for the info about factory break-in.
None what-so-ever. Mobil-1 0W-40 (which is the only Mobil-1 that you should use) meets or exceeds all BMW specificaitons for oil.
Best Regards
Shipo
I assumed the original battery died because I hadn't driven it for two weeks and it was nearly 3yrs old.
I had assumed the first new battery died because I hadn't driven the car for two weeks and hadn't had it on a charger.
I had assumed the second new battery died because I hadn't driven the car for two weeks, but the solar panel had been ending up in the shade caused by the
winter sun's position.
This most recent one... I don't know what the hell to think. The damn car's on a charger, I drove it 18 days ago for over an hour straight and the solar panel has been sitting in full, all-day sunlight.
It wouldn't be so horrible except that THE only place to get batteries seems to be from BMW, and they want $160 for each damn battery. Now they want to sell me the BMW Battery Charger to try to prevent this.
What the hell? I mean, my 1998 Z3 didn't seem to do this. Just how long SHOULD I be able to let the car sit without having to buy a new battery???
-tom
-tom
Best Regards,
Shipo
I agree with shipo that you should check out the problem draining your car battery before you want to put in another one. If you do, this is the right battery for your car.
jbailey6, "BMW 3-Series Sedans" #25669, 10 Feb 2004 11:43 pm
Seriously, you buy an expensive car and you want to chintz out on $3 a tank? Put the good stuff in. Live a little. You'll get better mileage and performance.
And, how is this a problem for BMW?
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I will take German engineering and build 10 to 1 over the French!!
Same with the transmission.....
Do you assume that all of your clothes are designed at the point of manufacture?
Or that Sony TV sets are designed by Chinese engineers?
Why do you think the French can't design products well.. they don't go to school there?
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As for BMW reliability and durability, the maintenance costs on my 1995 95000 mile E36 average less than $40/month while the wife's 1997 116000 mile E39 running costs average around $85/month. Those figures include scheduled maintenance, repairs, and tires.
I buy my pads from ImportReplacementParts.com, however, pick any place you want.
According to http://www.importrp.com/catalogm.php?man=34&type=34&year=30&year_name=1999
Front PBR/Axxis Deluxe pads are $39.99
Rear PBR/Axxis Deluxe pads are $29.99
Front Brembo Brake Rotors are 37.99 (x2) = 75.98
Rear Brembo Brake Rotors are 47.99 (x2) = 95.98
Front OEM Brake Rotors are 27.00 (x2) = 54.00
Using the Deluxe pads and all Brembo rotors, the total cost for parts is $241.94 plus taxes and shipping. Believe it or not this is a fairly easy do it yourself job, however, if you don't want to DIY, then you can certainly find a local independent BMW shop to do it for you.
As for minimum rotor thickness, it should be stamped or cast into the back side of the hat, so all you need to do is to take the rotors off and look inside.
Regarding all four corners needing replacement at the same time. Yup. The fact is that the BMW is a fairly well balanced animal, and as such, it uses all for corners to perform most every maneuver in the driving regimen, except of course acceleration when we are talking about a RWD car. As such, while the rear brakes will wear out slightly slower than the fronts, from what I've seen on my two BMWs the rears will last maybe 5,000 miles longer than the fronts. It ain't worth it to do one set, and then do the others a month or so later, just replace them all.
Regarding the rotors going bad after a single set of pads. That is sort of a misnomer. What is happening these days is that manufacturers are trying to reduce both unsprung weight for better handling and overall weight for better mileage. One of the first components to be put on a diet were brake rotors. It is not at all unusual these days for rotors to be very near, if not below minimum thickness levels after a single set of pads. As for those that aren't? If you cut them, then they will be very near, and then only a few thousand miles into the next set of pads they will be well below minimums. With rotors being so inexpensive these days, most folks just toss them without even checking to see if they can be reused.
I don't know if this helps all that much, however, it is what it is.
Best Regards,
Shipo
(keep in mind I have had the car for two week)......today a 17 year old on a cell phone ran a red light and I plowed her.....i am beginning to think maybe this isn't the car for me :sick:
the damage is not that bad....but bad enough to make me mad.....oh well....I will get it fixed and move right along to what happens next...... :surprise:
Just thought that was interesting