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Comments
I have a 2004 BMW and I have to wait about 5 seconds when the car is cold. The car is hardly move forward when I pushed gas pedal eventhough the rpm is at 2-3k.
Thanks for any input.
Yesterday morning, it reversed fine. After a stop or two, it wouldn't reverse and my husband had a 4 year old and a 2 year old in the back seat. I find this so disturbing because when I was pregnant, my husband and I did our research and decided to buy a BMW based on its reputation - credibility, reliability and longevity. For the same reason, my husband bought a 2001 325i serie a few months after mine. His experience is a whole different story to talk about!
So, today, my husband took my car to the dealership in Mt. View, CA and their estimate is about $5200. This is ABSURD! How can a reputable brand's transmission fail at 62K mile???? Not to mention, I service my car every 15K miles and the most recent one was a level 2 service which was performed a few months ago.
This is so expected and unacceptable. HOW CAN A BMW AT 50K - 62K miles have transmission problem??? IS THIS BMW's PROBLEM???
If anyone else encounter the same problem, PLEASE, REPLY so we can have BMW look into it and make it their problem.
Thanks.
Has anyone tried the cross drilled rotors at Bavarian.com?? These rotors would look "awesome" on my car with additional braking benefits.
Thanks
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DL
Good luck!
AMT-
Good luck
Thanks
I was wondering if someone could help me out. I have a '97 850 ci and it has never given me any problems until today. Today, I turned the key in the ignition, the electrical came on in the inside but the engine did not catch. After reviewing some general info, I think it could either be the started solenoid or possibly the neutral safety switch? Every time I turned the key, there is electical power but there is no sign of the engine turning over. Do you think this could be a more major problem then some minor electrical?
Thanks,
Corey
I have tryed to sue also, gets no where, buy a Acura TSX and stay happy...much nicer hen the BMW and does not ever break down....... :lemon:
As for the TSX, it's a machine, it will break.
Best Regards,
Shipo
That 2002 E36 is cool though-Munich sure didn't build many of them...
Yeah, I wonder what his/her dealership said when he/she tried to bring it in for warranty service in 2005, claiming that it was a 2002 vintage car. Kinda makes me want to be a fly on the wall. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
I'm looking to buy a 325Ci, 2004 or 2005 model. It will be my first BMW. I have already a bad experience with another German car, VW Golf 4...
When I see so many people here complaining about the car reliability I must tell you that I’m not that enthusiastic anymore.
Can you give me some hints about 325Ci?
Thx a lot.
Hmmm, there are now something over 1800 posts here in the "BMW 3-Series Owners: Problems & Solutions" discussion, many of which are basically useless banter, and spread out over a period of time greater than 4 years. Contrast that to some other "Problem" topics:
VW Jetta: 3600+ (nearly 6 years)
Mazda MPV: 4000+ (just over 5 years)
Toyota Sienna: 3200+ (nearly 5 years)
Honda Odyssey: 4600+ (two months longer than this topic, 4.5 years)
Honda Accord: 10500+ (Plus another 3300 or so for QC issues) (nearly 5 years)
Subaru (Crew & Legacy combined): exactly 10000 (as of this moment) (3.5 years)
All in all, most folks have found the E46 to be a highly reliable ride. Not that my personal experience is a relevant sampling, but for my last two BMWs combined (E46 328i & E39 530i), I had two unscheduled maintenance items. What were they? I had to have two taillight bulbs replaced. For those, I decided to splurge, spend the dollar and do it myself.
If you want a 325Ci, then get it. If something breaks, then get it fixed. In the end, while there are probably a number of cars on the road that are even more reliable than your basic E46 (which I consider to be a highly reliable ride), none of them are as face splitting/grin producing as the BMW. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
I have a 96K mile 1995 E36 as well as a 120K mile E39. Maintenance/repair costs-including tires-average $30/month for the 3er and $80/month for the 5er. The E36 has only required one set of front pads, new drive belts/idler pulleys and a timing chain tensioner-FWIW, none of the parts failed-they were replaced as a precaution. The E39 has eaten several sets of pads and rotors as well as a water pump. The few other problems have been super easy DIY nickel and dime items such as the trunk lock actuator and windshield washer pump. Would a totally bland FWD appliance such as an Accord or Camry prove cheaper to run? Maybe-but the pleasure of driving a couple real world-class sport sedans more than compensates for their increased cost of operation. Oh yeah, and the BMWs are safer as well; if I had to drive some vanilla FWD grocery-getter every day I'd soon die-of boredom...
Of course, I expect I'll be disappointed if my 2005 325i doesn't live up to the lofty standards set by my 318.
Question: Now that I've got 120k mi. on it, should I replace the clutch assembly soon? The third pedal's getting sort of heavy.
As for your clutch wear, BMW provides a way to check the clutch lining thickness on the car by using a special tool(naturally):
http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=4554
As long as you aren't having any problems shifting and the clutch isn't slipping I'd leave it alone.
Best Regards,
Shipo
DL
Check the rubber plugs at the bottom of the doors; they might be worn out, missing, etc.
Iulian
My latest 'pain' is my heater/ac coming on only when it wants to. Even if I turn it down to 60, it will jump to 90 w/fan full blast at feet and I can't turn it off. Lots of fun in the warm weather. It is so hot it burns my feet. When it came back on yesterday, I put it back on 60 and hit the AC button to make sure it was working.......well, now I can't get the AC off and the floor is still blowing out at 90. My warning lights come on all the time....'check coolant'.....already done that...'brakelight fail'....replaced it and it still comes on. My steering wheel shimmy's bad when I brake and it vibrates badly. I'm so fed up with this car, my 2nd BMW and my LAST!! Any suggestions? ps:I don't trust the dealer for repairs because something different always goes wrong after I'm there. :sick:
Now, off you go!
I'm thinking this would be a good time to go ahead and get the whole thing painted.
What's a good after-market color for a 318ti. I'm thinking of British racing green.
Also, I'm thinking of replacing the factory wheels (15" steel rims - oh boy!). Will it comfortably take 17" rims? Or should I stop at 16"?
Also, how hard is it to replace the emblem on the hood?
I'd go with 16" wheels; a ti shod with 225/50-16s has more than enough grip. You also should remember that 17" wheels are more susceptible to pothole damage due to the reduced sidewall height. 16" wheels/tires are also less expensive and have reduced mass compared to a equivalent 17" wheel/tire combination.
Here's a good article on hood emblem removal:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E30-Roundel/E30-Roundel.htm
Had a lot of fun with ignition coils! It would idle fine, but start to play up under the acceleration. The coils fail very strange. Apperantly output(discharge) voltage dpors...
I purchase 2 good seconhand coils and were swoping them arount untill found the faulty one.
Australia
And thanks for the roundel link. Now do you have one for replacing the gear shift boot?
Because of illness in the family, I've been out of town a great deal & haven't driven the car at all since early March, although I did start it about 2 weeks ago. Car has been problem-free until now.
I'll call the dealer tomorrow, of course--the car is still under warranty--but I'd appreciate hearing from anyone who's encountered this. TIA for any thoughts on this.
Been hanging out at tirerack.com and they seem to have a lot of wheels for my car. Any brands (or styles) I need to avoid? Also, I noticed some of the wheels are advertised as "lightweight" -- is there a noticeable difference? Or is it just a marketing ploy? Weight wise, how does this compare to the factory steel wheel/hubcap set up I have now?
Thanks in advance.