BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

odessit · June 2005

Guys. Question to all owners of 2006 325i without iDrive. Do you have daytime running headlights? I thought it is standard feature on these vehicles. Apparently I don’t have it on mine.
mike

kasperghost · June 2005

Problems per 1000 units tend to agree. Manufacturers have gotten better at the first run. there are still slightly more problems in the new model year of a major redesign, but minimal. Also, the e90 will undergo a "midyear" change in which they will widen the color choices and add comfort access. This coincides with their normal model year update of August/Sept. I would think that they would redesign/modify dumb ideas.

Don't forget- all this tech has trickled down from the 7 to the 5 to the 3. They have had a chance to change the "hey that's a cool idea- let's put that in- to dumb, it broke all the time, use the simple widget that never fails."

:sick: :confuse:

erickpl · June 2005

My Service Engine Soon light came on today (windows are fixed BTW). Is this light indicative that I need to change my O2 sensors? I always thought that light was emissions-related. The engine seems to be running as smooth as ever; the light just popped on during my commute (15 miles) to work.

-Paul

shipo · June 2005

Hmmm, every time my "Service Engine Soon" light came on, the first thing I'd do was to check the gas cap. Each time I found that the gas station attendant hadn't screwed it in properly (it's illegal to pump your own gas in New Jersey), and by simply recapping the tank and driving a couple of hundred miles, the light would go out on its own. I don't know if this is your problem or if you really do need an O2 sensor, but it is certainly worth a try.

Best Regards,
Shipo

erickpl · June 2005

I guess Cali and Alabama are into the help yourself thing here... but it is sitting at 1/4 tank and I filled it a couple weeks ago, so I doubt it is that, but I'll double check it anyway. So other than that, its probably the O2 sensor?

I don't have a Bentley manual. Does anybody know where the O2 sensor(s) is(are) on a 325xi?

-Paul

div2 · June 2005

It's hard to guess what may have tripped the CEL. I'd take it to Autozone and have them read the fault codes. FWIW, we still have the original O2 sensors on our 122K 5er. BMW says replace them at 100K but I'm not going to do it until they start tripping the CEL.

erickpl · June 2005

to see what it has to say. Any codes I should be on the lookout for or ones I can ignore?

-Paul

Crevels · June 2005

I've got an issue with the window trim in my wifes M3. It's not the actual rubber seal, but more of the felt-feeling trim that goes around the door. It came "un-glued" from the rubber trim underneath it. I had the same problem with my 2002 coupe last year in both doors and the dealer fixed it under warranty. My dealer will be fixing this one under warranty as well.

My question/concern is once the car is no longer under warranty, how to fix it. I tried heavy-duty double sided tape, but that won't hold it for more than a couple of hours. The problem seems to be heat related, because the trim always seems to detach in the summer months.

Is there any type of industrial super adhesive that can be used to reinstall the existing trim? Apparently this must be somewhat common, because the dealership immediately knew what the problem was.

div2 · June 2005

Let's see what they find and go from there...

erickpl · June 2005

I'll get the codes read on the way home (assuming the light is still on when I go to leave work).

-Paul

div2 · June 2005

The ECM will still keep a record of the code even if the light goes out.

kga · June 2005

>>> My Service Engine Soon light came on today (windows are fixed BTW).

Wow! I have exactly the same problems. At first window regulator failed (rear/right door). But I fixed it myself. One week later service engine soon light came on and I noticed RPMs are a little bit high at idle: its around 800 RPMs (it used to be 600). The light disappeared after couple days.
I spoke with service advisor at BMW of San Diego and he says there are several reasons which can cause that kind of problem:
- coils;
- O2 sensor;
- some kind of electric glitch.

I have appointment in two weeks.
By the way, can someone recommend BMW dealership/good independent BMW mechanic in San Diego area? Im not really happy with BMW of San Diego.
Thank you.

2002 BMW330, mileage: 61,000.

armand · June 2005

You're right - you shouldn't have to wait two weeks with that kind of problem. My dealer will almost always take you if you have a real problem and just appear.

kga · June 2005

I dont think its a real problem because it emission related.
Actually there is another reason for two week appointment  I need a loan car.

kasperghost · June 2005

"Is there any type of industrial super adhesive that can be used to reinstall the existing trim? Apparently this must be somewhat common, because the dealership immediately knew what the problem was."

Gorilla Glue- Which foams and expands (not like a volcano though)

Second choice- Liquid Nails

erickpl · June 2005

P0369 which indicates the camshaft position sensor. Do I need to worry about the camshaft itself or is it really just the sensor?

If it is the sensor, where on the engine is it, can I reach it, and is it something easy to replace?

-Paul

kyfdx · June 2005

My sensor went out the first day my wife drove our car to work.. (8000 miles).. I'm surprised your car didn't go into "limp mode" when it detected the fault..

Mine was replaced under warranty.. But, I've heard it is a feasible DIY job.. Not sure what is involved, though..

Not that I would ever attempt it...

regards,
kyfdx

div2 · June 2005

That's not an unheard of failure. I think your car has two sensors, one for each cam(you have a 2001, right?). IIRC one is easy to reach and the other is a bit of a pain. They are both located on the front of the engine near the cam cover.

erickpl · June 2005

Mine is a 2002 325xi. Didn't go into any kind of limp mode at all. Drove normally as far as I could tell.

Thanks.

-Paul

kyfdx · June 2005

Ours basically shut down... had to have it flat-bedded...

No idea of the cost.. as it was under warranty..

dmanship · June 2005

2001 330Ci - What does the light in the middle of the dash with the ! inside a triangle with a counter clockwise arrow around it mean?

When driving today that light came on and a bad, burning like smell was coming out of the AC. Turning the AC off made the smell go away. I have been having problems the last few weeks with the AC randomly going from low to full blast on it's own. Anyone familiar with this problem or what it could be?

Thanks
Dean

kga · June 2005

This is traction / stability control indicator. The indicator should flash in case of wheel spin (the system is actively regulating drive torque and braking force  BMW manual). It stays on in case if:
- you have pressed DSC button (it disables/enables stability control system);
- there is system malfunction in the DSC system.

Sorry for stupid question - did you press DSC button?

gordonwd · June 2005

2001 330Ci - What does the light in the middle of the dash with the ! inside a triangle with a counter clockwise arrow around it mean?

I've pressed the DSC button accidentally myself a couple of times, so that's probably why your light is on. And I doubt that it has anything to do with the A/C problems or smell -- probably just a coincidence. Unless, without the DSC active, you are burning up your tires by flooring it from a stop every time

.

div2 · June 2005

Your BMW has a code protected radio that "locks up" after power has been interrupted. The radio requires a numeric code which is entered through the preset buttons on the radio. You(or a dealer will have to pull the radio and get the serial number off of it. Once you have the SN the dealer can obtain the code for you. To pull the radio you have to open the little covers on each side of the faceplate. Behind the covers are two screws which need to be completely loosened. You can buy a special tool that fits the screw heads exactly or youu can try an allen wrench. If you go the allen route be very careful not to strip out the screw heads or you will really have a problem. You should then be able to pull the radio out far enough to read the SN. If you are really lucky the PO may have written the code on the radio, or left a copy in the owners or stereo manual.

brislance1 · June 2005

Does the E46 have the same radio lockup system as the 98 3 series? I have an 03 and can find no code for my radio if disconnected. I might be storing my car for several months and will probably be disconnecting the battery. Do you have any tips on storing a BMW. What about th trickle charger BMW sells? Is this safe to use for a long period of time?

Thanks for your help.

jim63 · June 2005

Thank you very much for your help. I was beginning to suspect something like the set-up you describe. I bought the car on e-bay. It came with an Owner's Manual but apparently, radio manuals are separate and I did not get it. I will be in a city with a BMW dealer next week so hopefully I can take care of it there. Thank you again for your prompt response.

Jim Brown

div2 · June 2005

I'm not sure if the E46 radios are coded. I suspect not, but I'd check the manual to make sure.

paule · June 2005

I'd recommend 3M weatherstrip adhesive before using a product not designed for this purpose.

paule · June 2005

I know the '05's do not have to have a code punched in. Apparently the ignition key which is coded to the car also activates the radio.
This came from the dealer service manager so take it with a grain of salt but I believe he is correct.
If you are going to store your car, disconnect the battery. You should be fine for several months with the battery disconnected.

Quiz for everyone: Who thinks leaving a battery sitting on concrete will cause it to discharge more quickly then if you set it on wood blocks?

kyfdx · June 2005

I do.... I have no reason to believe that, except that is what I've always heard.. I always assumed it had more to do with temperature than the actual surface composition...

mitzij · June 2005

One of my techs is working on a 2001 BMW 325i. The cooling system fan won't run. Do any of you have a technical bulletin I can read, or any repair information?

Any help will be greatly appreciated.

MitziJ

pvandyke · June 2005

Can anyone recommend a good one around the Worcester, MA area???

paule · June 2005

Man, I went fishing and only got one bite!
Kyfdx, you win the prize for being brave enough to answer my trick question!

You are correct about temperature making a difference but it's in the opposite direction. Cold temperatures actually make your battery last longer (ever put a D cell battery in the refrigerator to keep it charged?).

Back in the 'olden days (way before I was born), batteries would discharge if left on concrete. Modern batteries no longer have "leaky" cases and will not discharge any faster on concrete than if left on wooden blocks.

A common misperception that still exists.

kasperghost · June 2005

That's what I thought too- I went through the process of 3M weather stripping, Liquid Nails, and then Gorilla Glue finally worked.

drsdc · June 2005

My wife's 2000 323 bmw with 52064 miles has lost the reverse gear. I mean it will not back up. I hate this car. We're trying to unload it at a hugh loss, but thats unlikely. I haven't taken the 323 into bmw yet, but am very discouraged by the notes from others on this board that have the same problem. I also have a 528 from same year which has been great but it also had a transmission problem which was repaired under warrenty.

paule · June 2005

I've never used Gorilla Glue but it does look like it would do the job.
The 3M stuff can be tricky to use. You need to use the right amount to do the job.
Probably the difference is the 3M stuff lets you take it back off if you need to.
I'm not sure about the GG. If it works, what do you have to lose by using it?

bimmernut2 · June 2005

Are you speaking of the engine cooling system or the climate control/ AC system??? If it's the electric fan in front of the radiator, it's probably just a fan relay which is relatively easy to replace. (chevy dealer should be able to do it) If it's the mechanical fan on the front of the engine then you need a new fan clutch. If it's the Climate control system you probably need a new climate control module which will likely have to be installed by a bmw dealer for around $500. Always be sure to check for blown fused before you do anything else. Some times that's all it takes.

erickpl · June 2005

Div,

Where is a good, reliable source for the Bentley manual? I found one on Bimmerzone that lists is for 82.95 (for the 1999-2005 3 Series). Amazon doesn't have it yet.

-Paul

agrawalanurag · June 2005

Please file complaints on:

www.consumeraffairs.com and http://www.nhtsa.gov

You will find more cases there. Also talk to BMW N.A. After some talks they will agree to share 50% of cost.

It is important that you file complaints on those two websites. They work with the manufacturer if problem is wide spread. For that they need complaint reports from several people.

All the best.

holeinone · June 2005

hi, my brake service indicator light just lit up and I have about 32,000 miles on my 325xi. I have never had the brakes serviced before. My question is, do I have to replace the rotors as well (in additional to the pads of course)?? TIA!!

shipo · June 2005

"do I have to replace the rotors as well (in additional to the pads of course)??"

The short answer is, "It depends." Yeah, yeah, yeah, I know, "Gee thanks."

On both of my BMWs I've found that one of the two front pad sets had not worn evenly and resulted in the calipers not keeping the entire assembly completely square with the rotational plane of the rotors. As such, by the time the brake service light came on, the aforementioned braking assembly had managed to damage the rotor to the point where I didn't even try to have it "turned". The fact is that at $38.00 per rotor for your car, I'm not sure that I would even bother with the hassle of taking a set of old rotors to a machine shop for milling, I'd simply toss them and buy a new set. Of course, if you are paying someone else to do the job, then most likely they are marking up the new rotors to the point where turning them might seem like a better option.

Confused yet? Try this; if your are doing the job yourself (reasonably simple job), then buy new parts for a total of about $140 (assuming that you need a new sensor, new pads and two new rotors) and toss the old ones, however, if you are having your dealership (likely since a new set of brakes in included in your "free" maintenance) or a shop do the job, just rely on what they recommend.

Best Regards,
Shipo

flyfish2 · June 2005

I have a 1989 - 325i, 129K miles. The console has a rectangular indicator with green, yellow and red lights with the titles OIL Sevice and Inspection above them. My yellow light and Oil Service indicator has come on and despite checking all the fluid levels and changing the engine oil has not switched off. Is this something that can only be done in the repair shop ?

holeinone · June 2005

thanks shipo. i expect that kind of answer ("it depends") when i posted my questions and i was hoping some additional info along with it, which i found in your post.

my free maintenance already expired (mine is 2002). i am still upset about my under usage of the free program - just 1 oil/filter change, that's all! i don't drive many miles so i didn't qualify for the 2nd oil change by the time my program was expiring. (i only know after the fact that i could request the service anyway if it had been more than 1 year since the last service

got a quote over the phone from STS. $662.40 to replace all rotors/pads and sensor.

does changing the brakes as easy as following instructions? if so, is there a recommended link?

Thanks!

erickpl · June 2005

Yes, it is THAT easy.

Here is a writeup of the steps...

Tools Needed:
Jack
Jack Stands
7mm Allen Wrench
Tools included in your trunk.
Bungee cord or anything you can use to support the brake caliper after unbolting it
Gloves (optional, but highly recommended!)

Estimated time: 1.5 hours

1. These instructions are for the driver's side front rotor. The others' are easier to replace.
2. Open your hood and loosen the brake fluid cap. Do not leave it open as brake fluid may spill out.
3. Loosen the lug bolts on the wheel.
4. Jack up the car and use a jack stand to support the car. Take the wheel off to expose the brake rotor.
5. You will need to remove the clip holding on the outer brake pad. Use a screwdriver and pry it off.
5a. There is a small allen nut holding the rotor on the hub. You will need to remove this to get the rotor off.
6. After removing the clip, look behind the calipers. There will be black caps as illustrated in this image. These caps can be easily removed with your hands.
7. After removing the caps, (2) 7mm hex bolts will be exposed. Use the 7mm allen wrench to remove these.
8. Wiggle the brake caliper to get it off the rotor. Do not force it. After it has come off the rotor, use the bungee cord to support it or you can rest it on something. This is to prevent putting weight on the brake wires and brake pad sensor.
9. To remove this sensor, use a thin flat head screw driver and pry it out of the socket. Avoid puncturing the line the sensor is attached to.
10. Do not lose this clip. The clip will be reused on your new brake pads to hold the sensor.
11. Take the old pad off and reuse the clip on the new pad. Pop the sensor back in and pop the new brake pads in.
12. Clip the caliper back on the rotor.
13. Put the spring clip back on the caliper.
14. Put the 7mm hex bolts back on and tighten them. Put the caps back on and you're done.
15. The sensors only reside on the driver's side front and passenger side rear. The other rotors do not have the sensors so you can skip steps 8 through 10 for the other two calipers. Remember to tighten the brake fluid cap.

-Paul

holeinone · June 2005

thanks Paul! BTW, do you have the link? it seems to refer to some pictures. finally, i assume this procedure includes replacing the rotors, though not specifically mentioned.

erickpl · June 2005

but it is from another forum.

If you do a search for E46, it should show you the site I got it from...

-Paul

holeinone · June 2005

btw, should i buy the parts from the dealer? or where would you recommend?

TIA.

erickpl · June 2005

BMW of Bakersfield always treated me right.

I bought PBR/Axxis brake pads on line because I wanted less brake dust.

I got the pads from http://www.zeckhausen.com/axxis_pads.htm. I also did a brake bleed when I was done.

-Paul

jrct9454 · June 2005

You need a special plug-in tool to reset the maintenance tracking lights. Dealers all have them, as do lots of independent shops, or you can buy one from dozens of sources, most available online.

Simply doing the maintenance does nothing to reset the lights.

erickpl · June 2005

I did my own brakes after the light came on. There are a few tricks you can do to get it to reset. I think I found them on here. If I can find the post, I'll edit this and put the post number in it.

-Paul

To reset the Service Indicator, please refer to Post #24796 in the BMW 2005 and Earlier forum.

For the Brake Indicator:
Couple of things you can do:
The Bentley repair manual says... page 340-8

When replacing pads and sensors, turn the ignition key on (car not running) and leave on for approx. 2 minutes. This will reset the brake lining indicator lamp.

Make sure you have installed a new sensor though.

If that doesn't do it...
The light will eventually go off, but try this simple procedure. Turn the key to the on position (right before start position, all dash lights lit). Wait about 3 minutes. Cycle the key off and then start car. I know this works when you get your first chance, but not sure if it works after cycling key a few times. This is a very annoying occurance and not well documented any where. Good luck.

Another way...
If for some reason leaving the key on, engine off for about
1 minute does not work. Try a cluster reset, test #21 and it would reset all the inputs for the cluster like outside temp, clock and brake pad sensor etc. If light is on after reset, double check condition of both brake sensors and connections.

I did both of them - let it sit 30 sec version, then did the other one. My light went out - and I had no special tool. I also put a blast of WD-40 in the contact area where the sensor plugs back in to the electrical - to make sure everything was good.

BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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