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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jbuchananjbuchanan Member Posts: 27
    Hi a few days later,if you think BMW dealers hold their noses high just buy a mercedes and deal with those service writers.every writer I've delt with thinks they are better then you.

    jbuchanan
  • fawnfawn Member Posts: 1
    Hi - I hope you can help me out with this problem(s). I’ll try to explain it as best as I can.

    Lately, my car will not start and the check engine light comes on. The first time I took it to the mechanic, he plugs the computer in and it tells him to replace the crank shaft sensor. I take it home, drive it for a few more days and the same things happen. The car won’t start, the check engine light comes on. When I try to start it, no sound, nothing happens. I do this same routine for a few more times and eventually, it will start. So I take it back to the mechanic and he struggles with it and says that he needs to replace the ignition starter. So he did. I take it home, drive it for a few days and same thing happens. On the 3rd day or so, I drive it for over 20 miles, park it for an hour, come back and try to start it and it won’t for the first few tries. Eventually, it starts, but now when I press on the gas until it passes 2rpm, I release the gas, the car dies. I do this a few more times and it doesn’t improve. I let the car sit for 15+minutes, try starting it again and it does. Now the check engine light is on. The mechanic plugs in the computer, runs the diagnostic test, nothing comes up and when he unplugs the computer, the check engine light goes off. The mechanic sends the car home with me and says he can’t figure it out.

    Have you heard of this happening before and what was the problem?

    Please help, Fawn.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    What year and model is your BMW? Regardless, it sounds like you need to find another mechanic. Was the battery ever load tested? How about the charging system? Were the main relays tested against known good ones? Did he check the idle control valve(assuming your BMW has one)? The ECU? Can he spell ECU?Your best bet is to find a qualified BMW tech who can diagnose a problem-as opposed to simply throwing parts at it.
  • holeinoneholeinone Member Posts: 48
    erickpl and jbuchanan, i'm not saying Mercedes will be better. i will switch just based on principles. that's how i behave. if a credit card company give me lots of hassles, i'll just close my account. trust builds over a lifetime, but it take just one event to destroy.
  • holeinoneholeinone Member Posts: 48
    i'm seriously considering using the regular unleaded gas instead of the recommended premium unleaded, now that the gas price is sky high.

    does anyone know for a fact if this would damage the engine? tia.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Let's do the math: If you drive 15,000 miles per year and average 22 mpg you will save less than $15 per month-assuming the price differential per gallon is 25 cents. That said, that 50 cent daily savings will almost certainly be offset by the reduced fuel mileage that will result when the engine management system retards the spark advance to cope with the lower octane fuel.
  • holeinoneholeinone Member Posts: 48
    thanks for setting my mind strainght, which's been spinning by the gas prices which have been going up every few hours. well, it's the same mentality why the media keep talking down on sales of the suv's -- as we all know, an average suv's only about 3 mpg less than our bimmers...

    i'm under the impression, however, that higher octane gas give you more acceleration, not better fuel economy.
  • cargal2cargal2 Member Posts: 36
    Hi,

    I was wondering about the use of regular vs. plus vs. premium gas. I am driving what turned out to be a real gas hog, a 2004 325 xi wagon (between 13-15 with the air-conditioning). It has the sports package. Was so worried about the gas pricing spikes, I dropped it off two days ago with the dealer to have it checked out. It has about 20,000 miles.

    Among the problems I reported were: poor radio reception (both AM & FM stations), an occasional sticky handbrake light after putting the car in gear, some squeaking noise when I first turn the car on, sometimes, a back door that couldn't be opened for a couple of hours?, spongy steering, and the gas mileage.

    Told me that nothing showed up on the computer, pumped up the tire pressure to 36 (front), 38 rear, the end.

    Asked what to do about the bad gas mileage. Told the following: change the tire pressure, bad gas mileage with awd is normal, do a trial keeping records of either regular gas for a week, or plus, and see what happens. If you switch back and forth, you won't be able to tell the difference. He did say that with lesser premium fuels, the gas mileage would get worse....

    I went to look at a Honda Accord Hybrid today, thinking about a trade-in. A friend said, I'd end up losing more money, and the money keeping the car, could be used to spend on gas. Then, there's a lack of maintenance plan on almost every other car than BMW.

    Maybe, I could sneak in a secret chip to improve gas mileage without voiding the warranty?????

    The "torque" is in the higher ranges, while there isn't too much of a rev in the lower registers, like city driving......

    Thanks for your thoughts.....

    Cargal (lost and found)

    I hope for the best for the Southern survivors......

    :mad: :confuse: :cry::blush: :confuse: :sick:
  • ponytrekkerponytrekker Member Posts: 310
    Ignition coils?
  • armandarmand Member Posts: 178
    I have a '05 325xi wagon and am getting about 17 mpg in in town driving. I do keep my tire pursue up to the BMW recommendation.

    Mr radio also is terrible and I am still telling BMW that the performance is unacceptable. My other car (a '04 Acura TL has a superb radio and cost me much less. I won't let the tell me (as they have) that it is performing to specification.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The difference in fuel savings between your BMW and the Accord Hybrid will be about $1,000 a year at current fuel prices.
  • jbuchananjbuchanan Member Posts: 27
    Fawn need more info what type of vehicle,how many miles,last service,based on your description could be as simple as a vaccum leak,also would like to know what type of computer was used in trying to retrieve the codes

    jbuchanan
  • jbuchananjbuchanan Member Posts: 27
    Just read your message akebono has come out with ceramic brake pads,Installed them on my dads car 5months ago and have not seen any brake dust yet

    jbuchanan
  • signssigns Member Posts: 1
    can any one throw some light on my problem . the car starts fine but only on three cylinders, un burnt fuel ( white smoke ) comes out of exauhst. have changed rotor plgs etc. have been told that this model was renound for electrical problems ? no one seems to be able to throw light on this problem ... can you ? also battery only seems to hold charge for a few day had it checked its ok no systems on in car , so why the dead battery.? :confuse: :confuse: image
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    white smoke isn't unburned fuel...unburned fuel is distinctly black. White smoke is burning water/coolant. Time to pressure test the cooling system for head gasket leak, or cylinder leakdown test for the engine. Older BMWs like to crack the cylinder head.
  • timnytimny Member Posts: 142
    I've a 2006 330i - nav, premium, sport, cold weather, satellite. The dealer was rushed and didn't go through the whole car with me. Now I am not certain everything is as it should be. For instance, wouldn't an alarm -- and audible alarm -- be included? I cannot get the alarm to arm. The red indicator light beneath the rear-view mirror does not blink, no alarm is triggered as it should be by an interior motion detector, and the "panic" button on the remote does nothing!

    Isn't an alarm included????? (And do you think I can get an answer from my dealer??)
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    Unless the options were changed from the E46 -- amazingly an audible alarm is not included. Not to say the car is not protected. But I believe the alarm includes a tilt sensor and inside motion detector. You can always get one installed. And you should be able to get the clown's nose to blink without an alarm.
  • chatkatchatkat Member Posts: 41
    One of the choices you can make if you have I Drive on the 330 is to "confirm locking" - the healdights and clown nose blink. Aside from the Navigation telling you how to get somewhere, when you have it you get I drive and you can program settings on the car without dealer assistance.
  • armandarmand Member Posts: 178
    How do you get it to blink w/o the alarm?
  • timnytimny Member Posts: 142
    Yes, I know the screen to which you are referring. In the manual, the screen shows as having four options, including something to the effect about audible signal upon locking (I forget the actual wording). In my model, however, two of those four options -- i.e., those related to the audible alarm -- are not present. So my puzzlement continues....
  • akajimboakajimbo Member Posts: 10
    Mr. Shiftright and others. Thanks for your help on my starting problems.

    I did check battery and charging systems and it seem to fine. I also tried put the car in neutral gear and tried but didn't work. I think it the best bet would be starter motor or possbily solenoid. I am going to take my car to local shop this week and I have some quick questions.

    Is there any way that I can start my car just to take the car to the shop? Or I have to call a towing car?
    One other thing is: while trying neutral geat safety switch, I stepped on the brakes and it bulit up brake pressure so I can't seem to change the transmission to neutral. Can I release the brake pressure manually?

    Thanks for the help.
  • leronleron Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1990 325i 4 door automatic BMW. My car sits about 4 inches from the ground, so when I hit the speed bump at the bank I cracked my oil pan. The oil spilled on to the concrete. So I drove the car a quater of a mile to Auto Zone. When I got there the engine was smoking. Of coure Auto Zone is not going to have an oil pan for a BMW. The car got towed to my house and in the middle of taking off oil pan, I accidently hit the stater and almost got shocked. After replacing the pan I tried to start my car but all Im getting is a ka ka ka ka ka sound. The battery is charged, I can tell because my head lights and radio are coming on. I'm thinking its my starter. If you'll have any more suggestions please let me know, because I'm a college student and I need to get my only car on the road.
  • timnytimny Member Posts: 142
    Thanks. I leaned on the dealer and they're agreeing (in principle at least) to install an alarm. Of course, I want to make sure that the alarm is the proper, integrated BMW alarm - not some after-factory knock-off from Fly-by-Night Electronics.

    Do you (does anyone) know the proper name/model for the integrated BMW alarm (tilt detector, motion detector, etc.)?
  • johann8johann8 Member Posts: 4
    1999 323i:

    I have an annoying whistle/whine that happens at around 2,500 rpm when the accelerator is depressed (not when coasting). Seems to come from engine or front of the car. Get the mechanic shrug when I ask them to fix it. Not tied to speed, but rpm of engine and accelerator.

    Anyone else have this....? It sounds like a wet finger rimming a wine glass.
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Sounds distinctly like a vacuum leak. I'd have your mechanic check every hose that is attached to the intake system.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
  • mlernermlerner Member Posts: 2
    '96 E36 left rear spring discovered cracked near bottom. No apparent effect on handling. Quoted $240 to replace. Wondering (a) if doing both sides is necessary for handling and (b) price seem fair? Thx.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    The problem isn't all that uncommon.I would go ahead and replace them both. The price seems a bit high; who is sourcing the springs? Does the price include new spring pads? Might as well replace them while you're in there.
  • rhmassrhmass Member Posts: 263
    div2, when I had both rear spring replaced, it cost me considerably more than $240. I bought the two rear springs from the dealer with my CCA discount (15%) and it still cost me around $200. Then the installation cost me $120 by an indie. So may be It is not that out of line for $240 quoted to mlerner. I live around Boston area though.
  • jbuchananjbuchanan Member Posts: 27
    Sounds like the ground wire has a bad connection,if memory serves me rite the ground wire bolts to the top of the motor mount on the passenger side on engine.
    If not make sure the starter wires are tight and belive it or not twist the battery cables,sometimes a little corrosion will build up between the battery post and the terminal.

    jbuchanan
  • bmw98bmw98 Member Posts: 3
    Hi,
    I own BMW 98 328i. I had a problem with my (inside) temperature controller of my car which they replaced for about $450. Now the temperature controller is bad again and the display of temperature is not working too. My dealer says this is another $450 expense but to me it looks like the same thing has gone bad, shouldn't it be under some waranty? Is it possible by any chance I can go some non bmw dealer place to fix this problemf or less? Thanks.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    A five second Google search turned up this site. It's a simple fix if you know how to solder.
  • gregk2gregk2 Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a 2002 325i and have noticed that the quality of the reception on the radio is not what it should be. Its not horrific, but I get much better reception on my Jeep Liberty. There is a constant buzz on almost all the AM stations and some of the local FM stations have a lot of static. Does it sound like there's a problem or is this just the way its going to be?
  • armandarmand Member Posts: 178
    The radio in my '05 325 XiT is also terrible and BMW is saying that they way it is. I don't accept that!
  • kdshapirokdshapiro Member Posts: 5,751
    I agree with the horrible am reception, but FM reception should be ok.
  • gregk2gregk2 Member Posts: 2
    If you figure something out and wouldn't mind letting me know, I'd greatly appreciate it. I listen to AM radio much more often than FM and I'm really upset about the poor quality...thanks
  • cal5cal5 Member Posts: 1
    Was there ever a fix given for this problem? Locate the relay?
  • armandarmand Member Posts: 178
    FM is better then AM but still not very good. My Acura TL's radio is 1000 times better.
  • armandarmand Member Posts: 178
    A BMW regional engineer is supposed to be coming to hear it. I'll report on the results. One thing to do is to buy a satellite radio.
  • mldmld Member Posts: 2
    Hello all,

    My check coolant light came on and the coolant was low so I put some in. A week later it came on again and before I could get to the next exit it was over heated and the hose from the radiator blew off. I took it to a local bmw mechanic and they were very nice and seemed really competent. They replaced the thermastat and the radiator and of course the hose. I picked the car up and it was fun for the 45 min drive home. I parked, went to do some errors later and the dang light is on again. 1/2 the reserve tank is full and it seems to be running in the middle of the temp. The heater does not seem to be working either. No leaks under the car at any time.

    Could they have forgotten to reset the computer?

    Could it be the sensor?

    Thanks for the help.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    BMW cooling systems MUST have the air properly bled out of them after coolant has been replaced or refilled. In your case it's a good bet that there is still some residual air in the system-almost certainly in the heater matrix/core. The reason the coolant level dropped is because some of the air in the system self-bled into the expansion tank and was replaced by coolant. Try this: Park on an incline(the steeper the better) with the front end facing uphill. Set both heater temp controls to full hot, place the tranny in neutral or Park and-while keeping an eye on the temp gauge-increase the engine speed to @2000 for a minute or so. If that doesn't give you heat, take it back to the shop and tell them they need to bleed the system again-and don't let them charge you for it.
  • jbuchananjbuchanan Member Posts: 27
    Need to know what type of BMW some of the late 90's 3's& 5's had a problem with the water pump impellers spining on the water pump shaft,the temp would be ok at idle and driving down the road would over heat and blow the weakest link in the cooling system.This problem acts like a stuck thermostat.The easiest way to detect low water flow is to remove the radiator cap and watch the return coolant flow there should be a steady stream of coolant flow when you raise the rpms up to 2000-2500 rpms at the top of the coolant tank.Most of the BMW's have a bleeder valve, either on the top of the engine or on the top of the radiator,And must be bleed.

    jbuchanan
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    If you are referring to the M50/M52 engines the problem was that the plastic impellers would usually disintegrate.
  • jbuchananjbuchanan Member Posts: 27
    Yes,I was referring to the M50 and the M52 engines and you are correct,But the last 5 overheating problems I have had the pleasure to dianose the end result was the plastic impellers were cracked at the shaft causing the system to overheat and blow out the radiator,Just sharing my past experiences.

    jbuchanan
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Not doubting you at all.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    The 90s cars also like to break off the upper hose inlet on the radiator itself. Don't be tugging on upper radiator hoses on one of these cars while it's hot. I did and almost had my face blown off. (I'm not so young anymore but I still move like a cat---YES!) :P
  • mike514mike514 Member Posts: 1
    1991 325i conv. leaks bad. need help in finding a good installer in new jersey
    I hate to put this beautiful car in the hands of an unknown who might not do a really good job. please help
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Check out this site. They list several NJ shops.
  • tiki2tiki2 Member Posts: 7
    I really hope I can find and answer here..I recently replaced the ECM on my car and now since it is working correctly I have two lites an inspection lite (yellow) and of course my check engine lite but only when idlling.My question is is the yellow lite just a reminder to have the car serviced after so many miles 155K +or is this something I should REALLY be concerned with. Also I am at a loss for the check engine lite...I have been trying to find a manual as there are other concerns I need to look up but I cannot find one even on Ebay !!! Any help would be greatly appreciated !!! Thanks All TIKI2
  • timnytimny Member Posts: 142
    Please relay your experiences with mileage on the E90. I have about 700 miles now on my 2006 330i. Milage should be 21 (city) to 25/6 (highway). To date, the best mileage I have averaged between tank refills is 18.9 mpg. Most (80%) of my driving is highway.

    Notes:
    - I've not exceed 65 mph (I put the limit reminder on to keep me honest)
    - I've not accelerated beyond more than 3500 rpm

    I am babying the car since it's new (break-in period, etc.). This mileage seems much lower than I should expect. Your experience?
  • shiposhipo Member Posts: 9,148
    Two thoughts:

    1) Your engine isn't broken in yet. I've always found that the mileage on my cars gradually improved for at least the first 10,000 miles.
    2) I'm thinking that you are driving too slow. My former 328i and 530i both got their best mileage well north of 70 mph.

    Best Regards,
    Shipo
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