BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

Mr_Shiftright · September 2006

Sounds like a bad brake booster.

Rough idle/stalling might be the rubber boot that connects the fuel injection distributor to the intake manifold. Look for a cracked boot UNDERNEATH where you can't see it. This is actually a huge vacuum leak.

Given this car's issues, you may wish to consider bailing out on this vehicle. You can buy these cars pretty cheap in decent shape---but of course, if you like to fix 'em, you can save a lot on labor. But add up your parts costs for all this stuff and match that against a retail value for a clean '86 at about $2,500.

ktyklr · September 2006

I have a 2000 323ci that I just purchased a couple of months ago, has only 9K miles. The original owner said he replaced the battery last year.
Everything has been great but then last week, the battery dies, I jump start it and its' fine for a couple of days and then dies again. I replaced the battery 2 days ago, and went to start the car this morning and it was dead. Before I take it to a mechanic, is there anything I should look for....Thanks

choco325 · September 2006

Im pretty sure that the " I " is for injection eg fuel injection. So most models go say 325is: 3 series 2.5 liter engine fuel injected sport model ( enhanced suspension components) The "x " is for models with 4 wheel drive and the "L" is for luxury such as the 735IL model. Im not sure what the e is for. I have seen es with Lexus but not BMW.

doug36 · September 2006

I have a 2006 325i with a 6sp manual transmission, and I also have developed a slight chatter when I let the clutch out slowly in first gear. I have only 9k kilometers, or about 5,500 miles on the car. Have you found any solutions to this problem?

chashoang · September 2006

Hi everyone,

It's been awhile since i've posted but am in need of help asap. My 2002 330CI was taken in to fix the brakes and upon review, they noted that the control arms would need to be replace sometime soon. Over the last 3 weeks, I've been getting a clunking sound under the right side to the car along with extreeme vibrations steering to the right at highway speeds. I took the car in today to a different dealership near my work and they diagnosed the same problem....lower control arms right side immed.....left side reccom...along with 2 new bushings. $1140 for everything. My car has 50,000 miles, and the pre-cert warranty along with the extended factory maintenance warranty will not cover suspension type components i was told.

Can anyone let me know if the $114O sounds accurate, and should i have them do it or could someone reccomend a qualified tech. in the Chicago area. Also, if a independent shop does it... could it nullify any of my current warranties?

thanks a bunch,

chas

jossayah · September 2006

Hi,

Does anyone know how I would be able to remove the emblem on the hood of my 2006 330i. Someone placed backwards so know it looks like I drive an MW8 instead of a BMW.

Thanks

lacaguy · September 2006

I'm having the same problem. My 2000, 323i was running fine. I was parking at work, shifted into reverse, heard a "clunk" and from that point my reverse has been nonexistent. I was told that the company that makes a part that would fix the problem, doesn't make it anymore and that the whole transmission would have to be replaced. $$$$$
He actually recomended that I take it to a transmission place that may know how to get their hands on the discontinued part. Does this sound familiar to anyone else?

lacaguy · September 2006

I need to get the same problem fixed on my 2000 323. Can anyone suggest a reputable/honest/inexpensive (I know, one can hope) transmission place in Los Angeles? Around Hollywood or downtown?

div2 · September 2006

Check here.

susanlittle · September 2006

my 2002 325xi started to make a vibration noise after 28,000 miles and is increasing. it sounds like a low rumbling. i have had it in the dealership 5 times but they cannot find the problem. 2 times ago they said it was road noise due to tires. i purchased new michelins and the problem still exists. last time i had it in, (last week) i made the service people go for a ride with me. they confirmed that they heard the sound and vowed to get it figured out. they told me that they drove an 03 xi with 70,000 miles and it produced the same vibration. now they tell me that the noise is normal for the xi. my warranty ran out yesterday and i worry that there is a conspiracy. has anyone out there had the same experience?

div2 · September 2006

Sounds like a driveshaft/CV joint/wheel bearing. If you reported the problem within the warranty period BMW should still rectify the problem at no cost. Have you tried another dealer? What dealer do most of the CCA members use?

joyrider147 · September 2006

I just read about a couple of knuckleheads, who, rather than use a bottle of special fluid that reduces the vehicle's emissions, they used a bottle of rubbing alcohol. They got home and parked, now the car won't start and hasn't start since. For rubbing alcohol, what kind of damage would that do to a car's engine or fuel system? Is it as bad as using water?

If so, what would be the solution to fixing that kind of problem? Remove the fuel line from the car, floor the gas pedal and bleed all the alcohol out until gas comes out, then reattach it to the engine? Should the key be turned to power the car up and then do this? Would the alcohol damage the fuel pump or filter?

If anyone doesn't know, it's okay. I was just wondering how to fix that type of problem. What's worse is that they did it to a nice 84 BMW 325.

susanlittle · September 2006

thanks for your ideas. cv joint was our first thought. they ruled that out as well as wheel bearings. the manager says that they can't take time to tear the car all apart at bmw's expense! next month a specialist will take a look and hopefully figure it out. they realize that even though the warranty is up they are liable for the repair when they can pinpoint the problem. i deal with bmw of ann arbor, mi. and the next closest dealer is 40-50 miles away. not convenient at all for me so i'm stuck. the home dealer has had all kinds of staffing problems in the last 2 years or so since it was sold to a large buying group (just my luck).
anyone else have any ideas or answers?

susanlittle · September 2006

i have an 02 as well and extended the maintenence for an extra year. in the last year i had to have all the window moldings replaced because of rattling noises that would not go away. i also replaced the hazard and door opener switches on the console plus an oil change. all was covered under the maintenence agreement. service runs 105.00 per hour at my dealership so i probably broke even. my last year maintence agreement just ran out. i have a chance to extend it for 2 more years at a cost of 1500.00 but did the math and decided it wasn't worth it. breaks and rotors will be needed in the next 2 years at a cost from the dealer of 1100.00. they said that the 1500.00 will easily pay for itself with another oil change or 2. i found that the bmw parts (rotors) are 39.00 each and i can have the labor done elsewhere by a certified bmw michanic for 1/2 the price. it pays to shop around!

kyfdx · October 2006

Shop around some other BMW dealers... That 2-year package can be had for $995.. Your dealer is trying to mark it up for extra profit...

sarahap · October 2006

I just bought my first BMW yesterday. 2001 330i 62k. I love it! So the problem with a pre-owned car: Got only one key and no book. So I'm trying to figure out all the buttons and gizmos until I can come up with a book of some sort.

My really stupid question: The gas cap. I can't open it. Won't twist at all. Is it just screwed on really tight or is there some locking mechanism? I'm stumped.

And do you know where I can get a book? And and another key?

Thanks,
SarahP

div2 · October 2006

My really stupid question: The gas cap. I can't open it. Won't twist at all. Is it just screwed on really tight or is there some locking mechanism? I'm stumped.

It's just on tight; twist it counter-clockwise.

And do you know where I can get a book? And and another key?

The dealer.

msfitnetz · October 2006

Hi, I am considering buying a 2001 325xi. It looks liek a basic model and has no cruise control. Anyone know how expensive it can be without going through the dealer? Or even where I can get a new steering wheel with actual buttons ( it has a plain 4 spoke/square airbag)inexpensively? I tired online but I cannot find anything.

Thanks
any good indepenents mechanics/shops in DC METRO would be gret too. I checked on local BMC chapter website but none close to me!

joyrider147 · October 2006

I just read about a couple of knuckleheads, who, rather than use a bottle of special fluid that reduces the vehicle's emissions, they used a bottle of rubbing alcohol. They got home and parked, now the car won't start and hasn't start since. For rubbing alcohol, what kind of damage would that do to a car's engine or fuel system? Is it as bad as using water?

If so, what would be the solution to fixing that kind of problem? Remove the fuel line from the car, floor the gas pedal and bleed all the alcohol out until gas comes out, then reattach it to the engine? Should the key be turned to power the car up and then do this? Would the alcohol damage the fuel pump or filter?

If anyone doesn't know, it's okay. I was just wondering how to fix that type of problem. What's worse is that they did it to a nice 84 BMW 325.

Mr_Shiftright · October 2006

Oh well rubbing alcohol is diluted usually with water so there's the problem. Maybe they were thinking it was the 99% kind of isopropyl alcohol used as a fuel line anti-freeze sometimes. But they've got maybe 30% water in their mixture.

Time to drain the gas tank boys.

inline6 · October 2006

I just purchased a 2003 330ci. The car is very clean so we negotiated out the price of replacing a broken windshield. I contacted a local windshield replacement shop and they have a source that offers PPG glass with the automatic rain sensor circuitry. They got the VIN number from my car and passed it along to their glass source. I assume to make sure that the glass on order is correct. I was told that BMW uses PPG in new vehicles. The only thing missing on the replacement glass will be the BMW logo. I haven't been asked for a deposit and was told that when the windshield arrived they would call me for an appointment. No muss, no fuss no up-front money. Their quote is around $600.00. Forgot to mention.... no insurance is involved.

Went to BMW for an unrelated problem. The car still has 3 months remaining on the original warranty. The headlight ignitor was repaired and I was given a quotation of $1,000+ for a windshield replacement. The BMW Service Advisor said my windshield wipers may never work properly again if I have this work done at an independent shop.

Price is an issue but I want to make sure the installation of the windshield is done to OE standards. Any reason I should forego the better price and go with the BMW original?

Inline6

kyfdx · October 2006

My BMW dealer doesn't do glass.. They recommend a local independent... So, using the independent, should not be a problem... I'm sure they have much more experience replacing glass than your dealer.

I had mine replaced with BMW glass, so I can't speak to the sensor in the PPG glass... As long as the independent guarantees that your sensors will work correctly, I'd give it a shot...

Even with BMW glass, my total bill was only around $500.. The dealer is really over-priced, original glass, or not..

stl540 · October 2006

In 2004 I had $2000 worth of hail damage to my 2002 540i. I had a local BMW repair shop fix the car. As they were replacing the strip around the windshield, the windshield cracked. It was replaced by insurance as part of the repair. Windshield cost $329, installation $125, R&I B/Glass $125. The total cost of $579 is comparable to your $600 quote. My car is a 5 vs your 3, so there may be other price differences.

I have the rain sensing wipers. The part number is a BMW part number (51-31-7-059-697), but I did not see the BMW logo on the windshield. It looks exactly like my other one. The rain sensing wipers work fine after the replacement.

Do a google search on the part number and you will see what others are paying.

celkan · October 2006

I have a new 2006 325i stickshift. If I drive with the windows down, often there is an unpleasant organic smell. The first time I smelled it I actually checked to see if I had animal excrement on my shoes. It doesn't smell burned at all and it is strongest right after starting the car. With the windows closed it's not noticeable.

Does anyone know what could be causing this smell?

joyrider147 · October 2006

Is this car 4 door? If so, it's cool to have a stickshift sedan. Any ways, back to the topic. Organic smell? Does it smell like manure or swamp? Check the engine bay, under the car and all else because this might lean towards being a flood car. The whole car doesn't have to be completely submerged for it to be a flood car and I'm not saying it is, but that's what it could be. Check behind door panels, under interior carpet, check hoses, lines, engine parts, etc. Is there any moisture, water, weeds, mildew smell, "plant smell" under the hood, near, or in places that are very suspicious? Does the car's performance change or is it altered? Basically rip the car to shreds and go blood hound on it. Check your fluids. Anything wierd smelling or suspicious outside normal mechanical realm?
If not that, keep in mind the engine could be burning that stuff off when it is hot, but because the engine is cold, the engine heat really aggravated it. That why it smells so bad. Also check the sunroof really good.
Tell me more about the car's history. did you buy it new, used, preowned? Did it come from a BMW dealership or another dealer? Does it have a clean title? What kind of maintenance has been performed on the car?

dhanley · October 2006

I sometimes get a little musty smell if i have the AC blasting then turn off the car and walk away, with the car sealed up tightly.

A little mold can grow in the condensate on the A/C coils.

If i remember to turn off the AC for the last minute or two, it doesn't happen.

georgeng1 · October 2006

same problem here. 330d 2001 model. water starts leaking into the driver footweel and a few months later the front passenger footweel. The door seals looks in good condition. Dealer quoted £100 min just to investigate. Hinted to me that it could be blockage but i have no idea where?

celkan · October 2006

Yes, it's a 4-door. I bought the car new in Arizona from a BMW dealer so I don't think it is a flood problem. (For the purchase story see celkan, "BMW 3-Series: Prices Paid & Buying Experience" #6818, 12 Sep 2006 9:36 pm).

The car had 44 miles when I bought it and was manufactured in June of 06. The smell is precisely a dog poop smell, not a swamp or musty smell. It seems to be from outside the car, not from the a/c. There is nothing weird about the car's performance or under the hood.

My intuition is that the smell comes from organic brake pads. Is this possible? How could I be sure?

dhanley · October 2006

Huh. That's weird. I'd try to track down the smell.

I've heard of animals getting into the engine bay and dying or defecating.

dos1943 · October 2006

Whistling noise from my 330ci when the throttle is activated.
Before going to the dealer I would like to investigate the
vaccum lines at the engine. Being new to the car, how do I
remove the top engine cover to investigate?

dos1943 · October 2006

Mice and rats love a warm engine area, they will crawl up and
chew on the wiring,friend of mine spent hundreds to repair
mouse damage that ocurred to a garage parked vehicle.

Mr_Shiftright · October 2006

Could be your catalytic converter. They can sometimes smell like rotten eggs. They might let off a stink if forced to process a very rich fuel mixture, which sort of ties into your complaint occurring soon after start up.

muchopablito · October 2006

Maybe your car stepped in dog doo?

macmurdo · October 2006

Hi... I have a 92 318I convertible, last year of the E30 platform. Anyway, it recently (1000 miles ago) had replacement brake pads and rear rotors.

Over the past few days while driving, I get a faint smell of something burning... I checked under the hood and the belts look fine. Last night when I got home, I discovered that the rear wheels (driver side worst) were very hot.

Does this sound like an issue with the brakes causing the wheels to heat up? or is there maybe something wrong with the wheel??

Any help is appreciated.

div2 · October 2006

Does this sound like an issue with the brakes causing the wheels to heat up?

If both wheels are VERY hot, then it sounds like the parking brake is dragging. If one wheel is significantly hotter, then my guess would be a stuck caliper.

etomori · October 2006

Am in process of purchasing a low mileage 2003 330i (235 HP - 6 speed) under factory warranty. On test run engine developed a constant miss over 3500 RPM. Appears to be in "limp home" mode. Feels like it is running on three cylinders. It ran right from a cold start, but once it was warmed up, it started to misfire. Did the same thing eight hours later. Can anyone give me a clue what may be happening?

Mr_Shiftright · October 2006

Hmmm...sounds like some kind of "lean misfire". I'd check fuel pressure first off, also scan the car's computer for any trouble codes...I'd hold off buying this car until this is squared away if you can.

etomori · October 2006

Car was at dealers w/ confirmed trouble on no. 5 cylinder. To further narrow the problem (fuel or ignition) the coil pack was exchanged with no. 1 cylinder. Told to bring back to dealer if problem arises. Got car from shop and no more problem so far. Runs smooth with no hint of any misfire. Will bring it in for scheduled service (2500 miles to go) or earlier if problem again surfaces. Think that electrical connections were loose or corroded to cause intermittent firing or loss of connection. Thanks for your suggestions. Car is under warranty w/ 35,000 miles.

r_l_edison · November 2006

Sorry for the long delay in updating. The CDV replacement was a complete success, and using the directions provided online, it only took about an hour to do, and most of that time was just trying to bleed all the air out of the system after installing the new valve. The clutch now functions as a normal clutch should (there's a novel idea!). However, I'm still not happy with the programming of the drive-by-wire throttle. Still has a sluggish/flat spot about one click off idle that's frustrating when starting out and on the 1-2 shift. Also had an instance where the car hesitated when pulling out into an intersection and sounded like it back-fired back through the intake...not sure if it was just pre-ignition or what, but didn't set off the check engine light and hasn't done it since, so maybe it was some bad gas. Overall, this is an ok car, but falls well short of the high expectations I had for it...I'm eyeballing the new 335i coupe with an auto transmission as a possible solution to my less than satisfying first BMW experience. I just wish you could get the 335i coupe with all-wheel drive, as the performance of the 328i coupe with auto trans is only adequate. Not as interested in the sedan, as it's extra girth is a drawback when navigating the narrow streets of D.C. I'd highly recommend replacing your CDV, you'll be amazed at the difference it makes!

macmurdo · November 2006

Hi... looking for E30 wiring expertise. I self installed an Alpine CDA-9847 to replace my dead factory unit in a 92 convertible 318I. I thought I had the correct wiring hookup, and in truth everything works correctly, including antenna up/down with selection/deselection of tuner.

The only thing that is pesky is the dimmer function that is supposed to auto dim the display when headlights are turned on. That doesn't work. I think that I found the correct wire according to the E30 wiring, but maybe the diagram is wrong or I'm misinterpreting the color. Does anyone have experience or can anyone point me in the right direction??

Thanks

abfisch · November 2006

rl:

I have the CDV replacement in my trunk and just are looking for a time to do it. How long did it take to bleed??? How much fluid did you have to put in the master cylinder. You don't, I am asking have to bleed anything except the 7mm bleed nut on the slave cylinder right??? The service manual had a more complicated bleeding process which has me slight concerned. Otherwise, it looks straight forward.

I have to tell you I am probably not as young, not as good a driver as you but I bought a 04 BMW couple manual with the sports package, and live in upstate rural NY, not in DC. With a front strut bar, and some other minor tweaks, I find the performance of the entire car puts miles of smiles on my face, and only cost me $27.5K. Yes, more power would always be appreciated as the suspension seems to outperform the power, but it goes over the limit in no time and anything else would seem to be a waste of power and gas. Even my German friends in Munich don't understand why we buy cars like this here in the first place, so???? I perform my Avalon with four snows on it with a bench seat to most AWD vehicles. Why would you need AWD in DC???? I don't get it??? Do you go skiing in the mountains alot???

Thanks for the CDV replacement comment. I just have to get to it at some time before the snow falls.

abfisch

snsn · November 2006

I posted a while back about the leather scuffing in small areas on my 2006 325i. I have now noticed that the leather veneer on the rear air conditioner unit has peeled in certain areas to where you can see the white plastic showing through. The leather is also flaking in a small area on my driver's seat.

About two 1/2 weeks ago, I took my car in for it's annual maintenance and also due to the steering wheel locking almost every morning and afternoon. A warning light would come on showing a steering wheel and a padlock. I had to jiggle the wheel for about 5 minutes before it would unlock. The service advisor had to order a new computer part. They kept my car for a whole week. They said that there was a recall on my car. I don't remember what for because when I questioned the service advisor about not receiving anything, he said it was for a minor issue that would be fixed whenever the cars came in for servicing. I now have another appointment because my car is now not accelerating as smoothly as it used to (before taking it in for servicing). You can feel it shifting hard. Yesterday, the steering wheel locked and it happened again today.

Anyone else having similar issues? :sick:

div2 · November 2006

Anyone else having similar issues?

I'd be happy to help but right now I'm busy trying to solve a software problem that is locking me out of a couple of Edmunds forums. I'll look into your situation once I get things sorted.

pekingrick · November 2006

I leased a 2006 325i in August 2005. Great car - but both front door panels and the armrest "delaminated" (so sayeth the dealer) and were replaced under warranty. Now, the leather is flaking on the driver's seat, and the steering wheel developed raised spots on the spokes (the black plastic area) which, when I attempted to clean, chipped off! The dealer now claims that I caused it! And, to add insult to injury, the right rear door handle is now "delaminating", along with a portion of the center console... oh, mechanically, the car is a gem. But to fall apart like this? I keep the car totally spotless - always have kept my cars spotless - and to see the inside fall apart....this is not a good sign. Especially on a leased vehicle! I'm going to try to get it all fixed - at BMW's expense - I can't believe the low quality of the materials in question. Sigh. Anyone else have these issues?

trelly · November 2006

is it true that power steering fluid for bmw 325i is also the same as the tranmission oil?

div2 · November 2006

Did you lose your owners manual? If the PS cap reads "ATF Oil", you should use Dexron III.

Mr_Shiftright · November 2006

I've seen delamination issues on newer BMWs but not the leather degrading or the steering wheel chips...that is very weird indeed.

chile96 · November 2006

wife has an '03 325 that she uses as a daily driver. the wood shifter knob delaminated after 2 yrs of use (10,000 miles). Service rep replaced it no questions asked even though i thought it was because of the lotion that women use

but maybe it's a commonplace occurrence

njmarcy · November 2006

i can't find my book for the definitions of the warning signals that appear on the dashboard..06 325xi....just had a yellow circle with straight lines extending from the circle...any assistance or direction is much appreciate...marcy

div2 · November 2006

Go to the BMWNA home page. There is a PDF file of the 3er manual in the Owners Circle.

BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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