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BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • njmarcynjmarcy Member Posts: 16
    Thank you for the info, however they presently don't have the 06 manual on line.
  • amiramir Member Posts: 115
    can anyone tell me if the two circles around the headlamps light on when the daytime running lights are on?
    they do light on when headlamps are on or in the parking lamps mode though.
  • snsnsnsn Member Posts: 56
    The dealer has had my car since Thursday. Apparently they are having turnover problems. Received a call from a new service advisor who stated that they are replacing the steering wheel column, hooking my car back up to the computer to be re-analyzed and replacing the leather on the rear air conditioner unit. He said the warranty guy chalked up the flaking and scuffing on the driver and passenger seats to normal wear and tear. I told him I don't think so! Not when my mother in law has a Chrysler and my sister a Volvo that have no scuffs or flaking. There cars are 2 years older then mine and my sister's kids jump in with their soccer cleats! He said he would discuss my concerns with his supervisor.
  • mmancini65mmancini65 Member Posts: 10
    Perhaps what you are describing is the snowflake to indicate that the ambient outside temp is under 40 degrees. Don't know where you live, so this could be a moot point.
  • mmancini65mmancini65 Member Posts: 10
    I have a 325xi 2006 with 5400 miles on it. Now I have a loud tapping engine noise both at cold and warm idle, and it's also audible at low rpm driving speeds. it's going to back to the dealer very soon. no change in performance. Anyone out there with any thoughts? I've read that engine tapping has occurred on prior models, but not the newest rendition of the 3 series engine. :confuse:
  • gerapaugerapau Member Posts: 211
    In Canada the Angel Eyes only come on when your headlights come on so during the day when the DRLs are on the Angel Eyes are not on.
  • ewupbroewupbro Member Posts: 2
    i am not sure if this can be called a "problem" but anyway, when transmission is shifting i feel like the car is popping(?) momentarily as the rpm drops dramatically. This is as if something is pulling and releasing the car. i understand this is normal when transmission is shifting but what if i felt it a lot?? Especially, between gear 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 i can feel this greatly. In other words, transmission shifting is not occuring smoothly. i think this is because my rpm goes up very fast and drops a lot when transmission shifting even though i try to accelerate very slowly. This nagging feeling irritates me.. i am not sure if this is problem of my car or of my driving habit. Does anybody feel this driving 3 series? Is this a problem?
  • snsnsnsn Member Posts: 56
    Minus the popping, this sounds like one of the issues that I am having with my 06 325i. This started AFTER I took my car in for servicing. They are hooking up the car to the computer to reanalyze/reprogram the car. They have had my car since last Thursday to fix this and other issues.
  • mockba71mockba71 Member Posts: 1
    Hi there,

    Did you get your steering wheel column fixed? I had been having trouble similar to you and then a week ago today I started the car and the same steering wheel indicator with a padlock came on and the iDrive (I have a 325xi with iDrive, GPS/Navigation, etc.) gave me a message that I should not stop my engine because it would not restart. I was instructed to find a safe location before pressing the stop button. I took it to the BMW dealer straight away.

    Unfortunately, Rick Hendrick BMW is the only BMW franchise in Charleston, SC, so I was stuck with their bungling management and staff to correct the problem. It's been one week today and the car still sits. They did finally offer a loaner car last night, when I called late in the afternoon to see when my car would be ready (it was promised to me on Tuesday originally, but the Service Advisor called me late Monday to say it would be Wednesday instead). The reason the car still sits is because the part is backordered and won't be here in Charleston until after November 20, so it's likely I won't have my car back until after the Thanksgiving holiday. The only reason they offered the loaner last night was because I complained to anyone who would listen.

    I've lost all confidence in the Hendrick Automotive Group and now, sadly, in BMW too. I've already placed an ad to sell my car when it's fixed. I've owned it less than one year, it has less than 15,000 miles on it and this is a pretty serious defect as far as I'm concerned. But more than that, I've had three horrendously horrible service experiences with the local BMW franchise and if this is what I'm to expect for the life of the car, NO THANKS! I get better service from Sentry GMC - across the street from the BMW dealer - when I take my 1998 Suburban in for an oil change, and I didn't even buy it from them!

    The one unanswered question I have now, though, is whether this steering wheel lock problem is systemic and if it is, why hasn't it been reported? As I mentioned above, I view this as a pretty serious defect - can you imagine driving along and all of a sudden your steering wheel locks and you run into something because you're unable to turn?

    JD
  • snsnsnsn Member Posts: 56
    I pick my car up tomorrow. I will let you know if the issues are fixed. I actually had to call (again) to see when my car would be ready.

    I, too, have no faith in BMW. The last two service visits have been horrible. My husband talked me into getting a :lemon: BMW; and, even he is not that impressed! We have already started looking for another car to replace this one.
  • snsnsnsn Member Posts: 56
    I picked up my car yesterday. Needless to say, they will not do anything regarding the leather. They state that it is normal wear and tear. The service manager suggested that I use the BMW leather cleaner/conditioner. He stated that saddle soap is not the best conditioner to use. Saddle soap is what the sales person specified only to use. As to the steering wheel locking, he mentioned that there was a bulletin out on this issue. He has already replaced several steering columns on the new BMW. They did not find any issue with the shifting. I test drove my car and another new 3 series and there was only a slight difference. When they hooked my car back up to the computer, they probably made some adjustments. The shifting on my car is not as noticeable now compared to before.

    We will be out car shopping today!
  • etomorietomori Member Posts: 11
    Problem did not go away and was confirmed at dealer on Nov. 2. This time with BMW's PUMA program, the coil packs were switched from each bank, and, the fuel injectors were also switched. Problem was isolated to no. 5 cylinder. Upon teardown, a cam follower gouged its bore. The camshafts, cam followers and the support housing were replaced. Problem still there. PUMA now directs measuring the piston travel for each cylinder, fuel pump pressure, as well as oil pump pressure. Some indication of a replacement engine if problem cannot be resolved. Going to dealer for a loaner car. Good thing vehicle is under BMW's inclusive warranty and is serviced by a great dealer. Stay tuned for further news!
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Well, after just 11 years and 106,000 miles the brake lamp switch on my 1995 Club Sport failed- can you believe it??? As is usual with BMWs, the repair was breathtakingly expensive; the new switch cost almost $18!!! To add insult to injury, it took me nearly 30 minutes to replace it!!!
    What a piece of junk.
    I'm going car shopping today.
  • kominskykominsky Member Posts: 850
    Div, I've heard of BMW-NA giving help to people under extreme circumstances. If they are not willing to make things right, maybe pursuing a lemon-law claim will be your only option... :D
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    If they are not willing to make things right, maybe pursuing a lemon-law claim will be your only option...

    They'd better, or I'm going to buy a RELIABLE, hot-blooded, and race-bred machine- such as a V6 Camry!
  • bdkinnhbdkinnh Member Posts: 292
    >the brake lamp switch on my 1995 Club Sport failed

    My brother-in-law's father's horse trainer had the same problem. Time for a class action law suit!
  • dhanleydhanley Member Posts: 1,531
    I can't believe these criminals who work at BMW. They probably were hoping you get rear-ended by a semi so you can't tell others about their shoddy product.

    Disgusting.
  • davidd3davidd3 Member Posts: 582
    I accidently filled up my Bimmer (2006 330i) with Regular Unleaded, 87 octane rating instead of 91. What have I done? I'll mix it with Super when it gets down to half. Half tank of 87 + half tank of 93 = 90 blend. Getting closer to 91. Or is mixing octanes somehow bad? Any other ideas?

    My other cars take Regular. I'm at the gas station every day filling up one of 3 family vehicles. I made it 15 months without a mistake.
  • dhanleydhanley Member Posts: 1,531
    You won't damage your car, just put in high-test next time. You can mix octanes, it will average out as you say, but again you don't have to. You'll just get slightly worse power and fuel economy for awhile.

    And, if it's cold where you are, this will be even less of an issue.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Relax! dhanley is right; no harm done. The engine management system will compensate for the lower octane, with reduced power and fuel economy being the temporary result.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Actually mixing octanes might even give you better performance...it's an odd phenomenon that happens sometimes when you blend octanes.
  • davidd3davidd3 Member Posts: 582
    Thanks everyone for your quick AND COMFORTING responses.

    And Happy Thanksgiving to all!
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Disgusting.

    And that's not all; I wanted the transmission software update installed on my wife's '04 X3 2.5 and the dealer gave me an '06 X3 3.0 Sport to keep over an entire weekend. Then they had the nerve to hand wash my X3 before I picked it up.
    No more German cars for me!
  • 2mnycats2mnycats Member Posts: 11
    I have a 2003 325i automatic. Apparently my battery is no longer holding a charge. I have had it jumped but after shutting it off it wouldn't start back up. The lights blink on when I try to turn it over, but it won't start up. I'm assuming the battery is well and truly dead, and it's not a starter problem, since it turned over fine when it was jumped. Should I have the battery replaced at the dealership vs. somewhere else? It looks like it's not easy to get to. I may have to have it towed, so just wanted to get some opinions. Thanks!
  • 2mnycats2mnycats Member Posts: 11
    2nd part to question: should I have it jumped again and drive it to the dealership (about 25 miles away) or just have them tow it? Wasn't sure if it was safe to drive it.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    The BMW replacement batteries don't last very long. I'd install an Interstate battery. The battery is easy to replace; just make sure that the shop uses the supplied vent adapter to hook it up to your car's vent tube.
  • ftrohaftroha Member Posts: 21
    My 2000, 323i was running fine up until a couple of weeks ago. When I tried to back it out of my parking space, it wouldn't move. With some help, I got it pushed out of the space and drove it to a transmission repair shop in Norwalk, Connecticut, which is about 18 miles from home. After diagnosis, I was told my problem was typical of the transmission found in my make/model/year. Cost for the repair is over $2,900 and the work is guaranteed for only 12K or 12 months. The repair consists of replacing a defective part inside the transmission and essentially rebuilding it. The part to be replaced sounds like what you referred to in your message. Apparently transmission shops can get the part. Unfortunately, my Certified Pre-Owned vehicle warranty expired in late September. Considering the relatively low 64K miles on my BMW (coupled with excellent care and maintenance), the transmission failure is certainly the fault of BMW's engineering and therefore BMW's responsibility to correct at no cost to its customer. Two e-mails sent about two weeks apart to BMW of Greenwich via its website apparently had no effect beyond their form message response to me, indicating thanks for your message, we value you, we'll get back to you shortly. My subsequent visit to the dealership's state-of-the-art service facility in Port Chester, New York proved to be a waste of time as well. Two people in the service department listened to my problem, motioned for me to take a seat, said they'd be back momentarily and then promptly disappeared. After sitting patiently for 25 minutes, drinking a complimentary cup of coffee, I got up and left. (Except for a young cleaning lady, I was the only person in the service department at the time, which was early afternoon on a weekday.) I could go on about my 323i's air conditioner problem that required three separate visits over 1.5 years to properly repair; the ugly swirl marks the dealership put into the finish of my car and -- at my insistence -- "corrected" by simply masking them with a heavy paste wax job that the rain washed off in a week or so; the front left signal light bulb they generously replaced free of charge on one visit but tried to slip into a subsequent repair bill to the tune of $35 extra on the next visit. Suffice it to say there's no "customer experience" I've ever had that's worse than the one meted out by BMW NA and its dealership in Greenwich, Connecticut. The latest problem, involving the failure of my car's transmission and their "drop dead" response to my request to please make matters right, is the last straw.
  • nyccarguynyccarguy Member Posts: 16,373
    A BMW with a manual transmission? If you've ever read ROUNDEL (BMWCCA's monthy magazine) or seen any of div2's postings, you'd see that BMW slushboxes regularly fail between 80 & 120K miles.

    2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD

  • theflowtheflow Member Posts: 98
    My friend's 2001 325 automatic has about 54xxx miles. Recently, the car has problem while accelerating. When the gas was hit, the car will accelerate and the RPM will go up, but after it hits 2500 rpm, it will drop back to 2000 rpm and go back up to 2500 rpm and drop back to 2000 rpm. Now the transmission DID NOT upshift at all. So the car is very jerky. If you keep flooring it hard, it'll eventually break the 2500 rpm mark and go all the way up to 6k rpm. This happens 60% of the time, and it happens at every gear we tried (it's a steptronic with manual shifting).

    There are no error code and BMW dealer can't tell exactly what happened.

    Need help and appreciate if someone can give some feedback.
  • 2mnycats2mnycats Member Posts: 11
    What happened with my car is that the battery died completely without warning. This was really my fault as I know better than to think they will last 4 years, but at any rate I got no battery light. Had it towed to the dealership where they replaced it. When I drove it out of there, though, the battery light flickered on and off. Took it back to the dealership and they said the battery having been drained completely trashed the alternator.

    Despite the fact that the car has 60,000 miles on it and I have no extended warranty, they gave me a new alternator free (quite possibly because there had been no battery light when it originally failed). At any rate, I have had no problems with any BMW dealership I have taken my car to, and I have used three separate ones. I thought under the circumstances it was generous of them to replace the alternator without even charging me labor.

    Your car is a 2000 with 121k miles, so it doesn't really surprise me that BMW is being balky at fixing the transmission. I would like to think it would last longer than that; but let's face it, BMWs, while great cars, are probably no more reliable once they get up in mileage like that than any other brand.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    but at any rate I got no battery light

    Your BMW doesn't have a "battery light". The light that you are refering to only illuminates when the charging system malfunctions.

    they gave me a new alternator free

    BMW dealers often provide no-cost goodwill repairs to loyal customers.

    Your car is a 2000 with 121k miles, so it doesn't really surprise me that BMW is being balky at fixing the transmission.

    I can't think of of a single manufacturer that would pay for repairs on a car that was @2 years and 71,000 miles out of warranty. Furthermore, I'll bet that the ATF was NEVER changed. My 1997 E39 is cruising along in the hands of its third owner and the automatic transmission operates as new. Of course, I did change the ATF at 100K- as Munich recommends.
  • ftrohaftroha Member Posts: 21
    My 2000 BMW 323i has 64,000 miles on it, not 121,000 miles as you say. (Are you thinking kilometers perhaps?) My car has been meticulously maintained. A little research on the Internet quickly revealed that my make/model/year has a transmission defect, consisting of failure to go in reverse. I learned about the defect through the National Transportation and Safety Board web site as well as others. Unfortunately, BMW does not want to own up to the defect, and I am pursuing an equitable resolution with the help of an attorney.
  • ftrohaftroha Member Posts: 21
    In my earlier reply to you, I neglected to provide the following link to many complaints about my make/model/year's transmission failing to go into reverse despite relatively low miles (64,000) and excellent maintenance. The complaints you'll see are of course just the tip of the iceberg. There are many more on other sites and no doubt many, many more that have gone unreported via the Internet. If you'd care to copy and paste the following web address into your browser, I think you'll find it interesting reading. Apparently taking excellent care of a BMW cannot compensate for careless engineering on BMW's part. (They are not "the ultimate" when it comes to performance and reliability -- though they were in the early 90's.) As for the despicable dealership from which I bought my Certified Pre-Owned BMW -- enough already said in my first post.

    http://www.consumeraffairs.com/automotive/bmw_trans.html
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Whatever... :shades:
  • bmw3guybmw3guy Member Posts: 2
    I live in minneapolis, i bought a used 2003 325i, is going to the dealership the only option for service? Or should i buy into the predatory extended warranty service providers.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    is going to the dealership the only option for service?

    No. A good independent BMW tech will be able to service your E46 with no problem. If you are a BMW CCA member I would contact some of the local chapter members and see who they use/recommend. That said, I've found my local dealer's service pricing to be very competitive for many procedures. I certainly would not advise buying any extended warranty other than the one(s) offered by BMW NA; the third party warranties are really just glorified insurance policies- and all too often it proves very hard to recover any reimbursement from the insurer.
    In any event, the E46 has proven to be a very durable model. Change the engine oil every 7500 miles, the gearbox and final drive oil every 50000, coolant(BMW Coolant ONLY) every three years, and brake fluid(DOT4) every two years. I'd be surprised if your maintenance costs exceed $600/year-they will be even less if you can perform the simple procedures such as oil changes and brake pads/rotors.
  • kenshirokenshiro Member Posts: 16
    I recently got into an accident with my bmw 330 2006. Anyone has recommendation on BMW certified body shop in southern cal.?

    Thanks
  • bmw3guybmw3guy Member Posts: 2
    Thank you, very helpful suggestions.
  • sunilbsunilb Member Posts: 407
    I've been reading of other owner's having their battery die after 3-5 years... is there any way to know when the battery might die and/or when a good time to replace it is?

    Thanks.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    is there any way to know when the battery might die and/or when a good time to replace it is?

    The OEM batteries almost always fail due to a lack of maintenance. The electrolyte level needs to be checked at least every six months and topped up with distilled water as needed. I followed that regimen with my Club Sport and my E39 and their batteries lasted ten years. In fact, the battery in the Club Sport never actually failed; I simply replaced it so I wouldn't be left stranded somewhere when/if it finally died.
  • sunilbsunilb Member Posts: 407
    div2-- thanks for the response.
    Could you give me some more info (sorry, but a step-by-step would be awesome!). It sounds like I just need a bottle of distilled water and a funnel (ie, this is something I can do just by accessing the battery in the trunk)...?
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    Could you give me some more info (sorry, but a step-by-step would be awesome!).

    No problem; check out this page. Your 3er should have a similar setup.
  • lmaeslmaes Member Posts: 1
    Living in COLD Colorado. My BMW 318IC 1997 is my only car at this time. My heater is starting to work only occasionally. While I'm driving it turns on and off by itself. I had it looked at, the mechanic tells me it needs a new control panel. Does this sound right? He tells me he maybe able to get this from a junk yard for BMW's.
  • dhanleydhanley Member Posts: 1,531
    Yeah--this is a known problem.

    The part at a dealer, is, i think $250. Labor is trivial, but they may still charge an hour for it. Apprently, it is a broken solder, and you can fix it. I think div2 posted the link last time... :)
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I think div2 posted the link last time...

    It's deja vu all over again;
    E36 Climate Control Repair
    ;)
  • ncsd_bmwncsd_bmw Member Posts: 5
    Wife was in a fender bender on 11/15/06. We chose to have the car towed and the body repairs done at the authorized bodyshop at the dealer we purchased our 2006 325i (insurance company said our choice). 9K miles, fully loaded, Sapphire Graphite, Premium, Sport, Navigation, etc.

    The fender bender (bumper/hood replacement, paint, headlight replacement) turned into an appraisal of 13K in damage ($4K parts + $9K labor).

    We've been told:
    1) 6 week wait to even start working on the car. No other BMW bodyshops will be able to do it quicker.
    2) 1 week of work per $1K in damage.
    3) Car won't be fixed until March. (4 months)
    4) Can't pull it out of the our bodyshop unless you pay our $2200 "appraisal fee".
    5) If you pull the car out and don't let us do the work on the car, your BMW warranty is void.

    Not having a car for 4 months is crazy so we figured we'd explore trading in the car, to the same dealership, and get into a new 328i (going to have to fork over some serious $$ for 4 months in rental anyways, plus our usual car payments).

    Then we're told:
    1) We'll only give you $20K on trade in AFTER the car is fixed. I understand body work knocks some $$ off the value, but the dealer is selling the same used 325i with the same options from $37-39K.
    2) The reason we'll only give you $20K is that we can't sell it certified.

    Love the car, not worth the nightmare.

    Anyone have any similar experiences or advice?

    Thanks!
  • bdkinnhbdkinnh Member Posts: 292
    Were you made aware of the "appraisal fee" when you dropped the car off? Check your paperwork - if not, I'd call a lawyer or your state's AG, and let the dealer know. Did they really say it was $2,200, or was that a typo?

    Just curious: what state are you in and who is the dealer?
  • ncsd_bmwncsd_bmw Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the comments bdkinnh,

    We signed release paperwork allowing the bodyshop to even do the appraisal. I need to reread the that paperwork (wife has it with her), but I do know that the exact fee wasn't a predetermined amount, and is supposedly based there hourly labor charge ($49). That would make it a good 40-44 labor hours to do their appraisal. Obviously their way of making sure the car stays put.

    We're calling BMW North America today to open a case and file a complaint.

    California - Brecht BMW (Escondido)
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    We chose to have the car towed and the body repairs done at the authorized body shop at the dealer we purchased our 2006 325i (insurance company said our choice).

    First mistake; you should have researched the matter a bit further. Some BMW dealers have excellent body shops, while others are poor to mediocre.

    1) 6 week wait to even start working on the car. No other BMW body shops will be able to do it quicker.

    Possibly true.

    2) 1 week of work per $1K in damage.

    A flat out lie.

    3) Car won't be fixed until March. (4 months)

    See above.

    4) Can't pull it out of the our body shop unless you pay our $2200 "appraisal fee".

    Sounds like a scam, but the contract language may provide for it.

    5) If you pull the car out and don't let us do the work on the car, your BMW warranty is void.

    Another lie.

    Then we're told:
    1) We'll only give you $20K on trade in AFTER the car is fixed. I understand body work knocks some $$ off the value, but the dealer is selling the same used 325i with the same options from $37-39K.


    A $13K accident will decrease the value by 10%-25%.

    2) The reason we'll only give you $20K is that we can't sell it certified.

    Another bald faced lie. A wrecked vehicle that is properly repaired to BMW standards can be a CPO car.

    You should have joined BMW CCA as soon as you bought your E90. Had you done so, you could have easily gathered body shop recommendations and other pertinent information from local chapter members.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 235,188
    I'd call my insurance company.... They may not look so kindly on this scam...

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