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Thanks for the comments/suggestions. Appreciate it!
I can't even begin to count the instances of misinformation you were given by the dealer and body shop.
Right, I've always used an indie shop. That said, BMW NA is working to set up "BMW Approved" dealer body shops- probably in an attempt to prevent fiascos such as the one described by ncsd.
Amazing that according to the dealership, we lost almost 50% of the value of our car from having right front impact going less than 10mph.
Not sure what we'll do other than wait until March to get the car back. More than likely we'll dump the car and take the loss because BMW is a nightmare. Maybe we'll sell it back to Bretch for $20K!! ha. They'll mark it up a couple thousand and probably just put that brand new 2006 fully loaded 325i with 9K miles on their lot for $22K. (yea right)
If the accident wasn't wifey's fault, you can also sue the other car's insurance company for Diminution of Value, for which you would need an appraiser. You can't sue your own insurance company for DOV however.
The BMW would just sell your car for a few thousand less than a CPO car, that's all. Your accident might not even show on CARFAX---they miss a lot.
thanks for your time
The problem is I cannot get rid of it, and it slightly clouds the view through the windshield.
I tried cleaning it with Windex and paper towels, but that did not work. I then bought a can of Zepp spray foam glass cleaner from Home Depot and tried that, but it too did not work.
My wife had her car washed today at the same car wash we always frequent, which cleans the inside glass of the cars with a spray foam cleaner. She asked them to see if they could renmove the residue with their glass cleaner, rags, and elbow grease, but that did not work.
On my car, the first time I noticed the residue was on the same day I had it washed at the same car wash. The only thing I can think of is the car wash missed a part of the windshield while wiping it, and the foam cleaner was allowed to dry on the glass.
Has anyone had a similar problem? Any suggestions on how to remove the film?
Thanks
Bruce
i am not the most savvy with cars so any suggestions will help.
it does not want to turn over. when i turn the key it sounds as if it is struggling to start for a second and just gives up.
i would appreciate any help.
thanks.
Try a mixture of 20% vinegar/80% water. This should do it. Ancient Italian cleaning remedy!
Regards,
OW
1 - At cold start and putting the car in gear (reverse typically) on chilly mornings particularly, the engine makes a squeeling sound. Took th car to VOB in Rockville, MD more than once. First time around VOB said it was the tensioner, but the problem never went away. Took it back but VOB couldn't reproduce it. Any clues?
2 - When the roof top is up, driving on uneven or slightly bumpy road makes a rattle sound (kind of metal on metal). The sound goes away when the roof is down. Not a major issue but an annoying one! Took it to VOB more than once, every time they fixed something inluding torqing bolts on rear wheels shock assembly but the problem remains. I must say that no VOB technician ever went out with me to actually hear what I hear. Any clues as to the rattle sound when the roof is up?
3 - My wife recently hit a deer. No serious damage to the front, but the repair took a new hood. Reading the "nightmare" that ncsd_bmw went through after his fender bender, I am lucky that no such thing happened here. I took it to Scuderi Auto Body in Rockville, MD, supposedly the only body shop recommended by AAA in Montgomery County, MD. Everything turned out fine, except that the hood aligment - space between the sides of the hood and the fenders - is not the same on both sides. One side is wider than the other. I showed it to the technician, however he is saying that this is not a problem and there is no way this can be fixed. Any clues?
Thanks.
The cold start squeal sounds like the serpentine belt. I would recommend that the belt should be changed.
For the roof, reproduce for the technician.
Is there an adjustment for the hood brackets? There should be some way to make the space even to your satisfaction. Do not give up.
Regards,
OW
He's full of it; either the hood can be adjusted or the shop screwed up the repair. The shop needs to step up to the plate and correct the problem.
It's almost certainly a dead battery.
When I had this problem, two techs took the car out... one drove, while the other one got in the back seat to listen for the rattle...
How the heck do they expect to fix it, when they don't know what it is?
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Thanks for the suggestion. I hope that works.
Bruce
Regards,
OW
Walt,
I am making an appointment with a different dealer and will insist on drive-with-tech to make sure they hear what I hear.
OW,
I am not sure if this is the serpentine belt since the squealing only happens when I put the vehicle in gear. However, I will pursue this again with the new dealership.
Mr. B,
I did exactly what you said, took the car to the shop again and insisted on fixing the hood alignment. Luckily there was no issue with it this time around since they had to fix the problem of hood not closing when dropped from about 1-1/2 ft high as suggested in the manual. Everything worked out fine, except that the the lever now sticks out of the front grille when the hood is closed. This left them perplexed since they couldn't find how to fix that. The solution was to approach the dealer and inquire about this strange situation. So, one down, two to go.
What was the cause for the rattle in your case ... How did it get fixed?
1) Something to do with the tops of the rear shocks..
2) An alignment of the hard cover
The aligned the cover... then took another test drive.. still heard another rattle.. and went back in and fixed that one..
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The interior is the same except for different front seats and steering wheel. The sport seats are narrower and have higher bolsters.
The biggest difference for me in headroom is caused by the moonroof. I'm 6'5"/200 lbs - I hunted everywhere to buy an E46 car without a moonroof. Also, sedans have more headroom than coupes due to the more upright front glass.
At 6'5", I never use the front sun visor. Sometimes my head almost touches the headliner. But I like small, tight-handling cars as they remind me of my 20+ years of flying Navy jets off aircraft carriers.
The problem is that try as I might, I just cannot find an A4 Scooter in a used car lot. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
I'm hoping u guys can steer me in the right direction... I just bought a 2000 323i, with 114k, 2 owner. Previous owner told me next service is due around 120k. Service engine light comes on and goes off every few days. Also, every now and then, when i try to start the car, it will take a few turns and if i take off, there is hesitation and if i stop, it goes dead but cranks right back up. Any suggestions??? I would really appreciate it!!!
Can I buy this modulator and install elsewhere?
Is this something they could have affected during their repairs?
Thanks
Regards,
OW
BN
If there is no warning indication, there is nothing wrong with engine operation.
Noises are very hard to diagnose, so they are changing parts they assume would cause the problem instead of duplicating the noise first.
I have an '06 330 xi and it's a lease because before the warranty is over, BMW can have it back. I would rather rent than own from now on.
Regards,
OW
When stationary, the revs will go between 1000 and 1500. When driving along at a constant speed, I can feel the it pulling as its doing the same. When I am accelerating it seems ok. Whilst on my drive, if I try and hold the revs at say 2000, it will then pump above this to 2500 so it seems to be applying 500 revs.
Its at this point that I should let you know that I ran very low on fuel (the remaining mileage counter on the dash came up with a straight line!). Its since doing this that I've developed the problem. Could it be fuel line issues with the gunk in the tank clogging something?
I'd appreciate any help you may be able to give.
Thanks
BMWs are designed to run on continuous flow digital fuel injection, unlike its domestic non-continuous fuel injection. The difference is where the non-continuous sprays 5 ccs at once for a 1/2 second, the BMW's injection will spray the same 5 ccs in a stream for a 1/2 second, thus having a smaller injector than domestics. Also with BMWs, the accelerator is controlling not only the throttle plate, but also your fuel pump via mass air flow sensor. Step on the gas, more air into engine, and it'll tell the computer to increase the pressure.
Also, the fuel pump completely relies on extra gas in the tank, minimum 1/4 of a tank to cool the fuel pump down. Running on fumes overheats the pump and burns it out, then its time for a new pump.
That having been said, you are messing with the car's fuel regulating computer- it is receiving all sorts of wrong or confusing mixed messages: if the O2 sensor or Mass Air Flow sensor picks up too much air/fuel in the combustion chamber when cold starting, it will automatically reduce the pressure via fuel pump to rectify the problem. But, too little in the chamber, then it will increase the pressure, flooding the engine.
Also, your spark plugs could also aid in the problem by not burning ALL of the gas in the cylinders. It's supposed to do that especially during initial startup (continuous flow injection does that so it doesn't buildup varnish or gum up the cylinders) so the engine will last longer. Again, too much gas, back it down, then it'll be too little and it'll over rev.
I have a similar problem, but it's not as bad as your problem and it's reversed. I almost stall out at 300 rpms. cold starting, even when I'm allowing the car to warm up but after it's warm, then it's okay.
My BMW has been in the shop four times in its 31,000 miles. Every appointment took more than a month to get and they never fixed the problems on the first visit. It took three visits (and over a year) to get them to replace the ambient air temp sensor (which provided only two readings--min cold and max hot). I wouldn't have cared except that the sensor affects the air conditioning and I lived in Arizona!
My M-tech steering wheel with the alcantara leather is shedding and looks like a $10 sweater after 30 washings--all balled up. I've shown the problem to three different dealers--two said "The sun will do that to a steering wheel" (never hurt my other cars like this) and the third told me that "It's a sport steering wheel and you should be wearing driving gloves when you drive it. The oils on your hands are causing it to wear out prematurely." I responded: "The seats are made of the same material...should I be wearing special driving pants or will my leather underwear do the trick?" The service writer laughed as he walked me to my freshly-washed car. That is, freshly washed on one side, freshly greased on the other. The driver's side rocker panel was covered in shop grease from wheel well to wheel well. It was raining when they drove the car up and I could see the streaks on the windshield in the light of the covered service area . I asked the service rep if they had replaced the wiper blades as I had requested. "I'm sure they tested them and would have changed them if they were bad." I asked him to climb behind the wheel and let me know if he thought they needed to be replaced. He said: "We'll get it on your next visit." "Buddy, I live 35 miles away and probably won't be back until the beaches open this spring. I'm only here because the people at my local BMW dealer only want to service cars they've sold. Is there any chance you can get one of the techs to toss on a pair of blades?" "Well, it's after 5 and they're busting their butts trying to get out of here." "I appreciate the fact that your guys want to go home, so I hope you'll appreciate the fact that I waited more than a month to get this appointment and took half a day off work and would like to have my car finished before my hour-long trip home in the rain." "I'm sorry but they'll have to get it next time." "Buddy there won't be a next time."
Just in case the general manager at Checkered Flag BMW of Virginia Beach is reading this: Don't bother having your salesman call me about that new M Roadster I was looking at on Friday, January 5th at 4pm. You may remember me as the cash buyer who was also considering the X5 for his wife. My 330 was my first, and last, BMW--thanks to your service dept and the buffoons at Casey BMW in Newport News.
I guess I'll have to try my first Benz or Lexus--I hear they know how to treat people buying $50k+ cars. Maybe I'll just buy another Vette--I got much better service from Chevy.
I have a 2004 330i, manual. For the past 6 months, the acceleration is choppy when I push the pedal medium to medium-hard, especially on 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears and toward the higher revs. I had my computer chip re-programmed a couple of years ago due to the car stalling on idle, and I'm wondering if that has anything to do with it.
Anyone else have this experience? or have any idea?
Thanks in advance!
I am so sorry about your experience. I had a lump in my throat reading it. I thought I would give you a different side of a coin to temper your thoughts. I hope this makes a difference.
I owed a 02 Toyota Avalon since new, paid cash for it. Liked the car since I bought it with a bench seat, but vibrated at high speed. New it was in the axles, but Toyota never made good, jerking me around between wheels and rotors, and this and that. Finally fixed it on my own but never another Toyota new.
Came out of the PX, 1.5 year old BMW 2004 325ci, sports package, upgraded radio, 5speed, black metallic with tan leather interior. NOTHING ELSE, not even a sunroof. Two times brought to Carbone BMW in Utica, NY(only use the car during the nicer months), both times timely, professional, did what they said(wiper blades chattering) and mechanic came out to talk to me about the car. Besides rough idle on start up, which I changed the octane of the gas, no other problems pure engagment and enjoyment with minor tweaks including a strut tower bar, CDV less, and a upgraded clutch pedal bump stop. I have almost 20K on it now in a heated garage.
Points being, this dealership is good, and not swamped; sometimes less is better. Use the Avalon in the summer months. Will be doing my own maintenance on both cars when the BMW comes off warranty.
abfisch
BMW constantly takes hits for poor quality/reliability. I'm lucky to have a BMW that is almost perfect--the exception to the rule. Unfortunately, the minor issues that required attention were simply too much for the service departments. I'm a reasonable guy and I don't expect the car to be perfect. However, I do expect the dealership to make an honest effort to fix any problems--not just make up BS excuses (driving gloves?) for why they can't/won't fix it.
If we were talking about a $12k Kia or Suzuki, I could understand the dealer's indifference (not that it would be right for them to dismiss the customer's concerns jsut because the car is cheap). So, would you buy another $50k car from BMW or take your money elsewhere? You didn't buy another Avalon, so I'm guessing that you I'm voting with my feet and my wallet and strolling down to the Mercedes Benz, Lexus, and Chevy dealers (even though my wife will have a fit if I get another Corvette).
My experience with the suede like steering wheel on my last 330i ZHP was equally frustrating. The suede-like material is called alcantara and it did not mattered that I used the BMW M series driving gloves from day one: two years after it looked exactly as what you have described. My service advisor had the same car as I did (they get 2 year leases) and his steering wheel had survived (?) the peeling sindrome. He told me he did not used gloves, just bare hands :confuse: At that point I had already given up going to 3 dealers in Houston, and the best I could get was a 50% split in the cost of replacing the alcantara wheel with a hard leather M3 steering wheel to the tune of $300. However, it ended up a moot point because I traded the 330 for a late '06 M3 which incidentally has....an alcantara steering wheel...because its part of the competition package. I thought of getting alcantara gloves at a gun store (they are listed as alcantara hunting gloves, never seen one), but for the time being I am sticking to my plain Wilson leather gloves, so far so good...
Best Regards,
Shipo
To them, like Toyota, it is just another piece of metal. Not important to them, like to you in the entire scheme of things. You must have bought the car, like I did the Toyota, cause the attitudes of people are different that lease versus buy. Personally I don't do leases, but they have value if you can write them off.
What I would do, since the car sounds fine otherwise, is change the steering wheel. I would have them, change the steering wheel to the regular leather steering wheel for the 330i, hooking up everything, and be done with it. I know they should make a better part, but they don't, and as I said in the earlier posting, they are care less. I totally agree, for a 45K car, what gives. That is why I try and only get functional upgrades. BMW packages stuff too much inflating the price and producing inferior material sometimes in the process.
If it makes you feel better, I came out to my car in the heated garage, open the door, and found the interior door fascia drooping, as if they use inferior glue on it. The car is garaged, heated to 50F, only used in the nice months. I said,man, this piece of goo. Did not even bother to waste my time and take it to the dealership to hear the bull sound. Got some automotive Goop adhesive, spread it on, clamp it as evenly as possible and put foamboard onthe top of the clamp(freakin scratch the paint just a little but no more than they wound have done) and in 24 hours, fixed. Painful but fixed permanently. Nothings perfect. The steering wheel would bug me terribly. Have them make good and put in a regular leather one. Should last the lifetime of the car.
Just my thoughts.
abfisch
I also own a 2004 CiC and so far have not been able to get the VOB of Rockville, Maryland fix the squeeling noise problem when putting the car in gear after a cold start (overnight or if the car has not been driven for few days). Another one that they said they fixed but remains a problem is a rattle that I hear when the soft top is up.
I also own a 2001 MB 320, and I can tell you that there is a difference of day and night between the BMW and MB after sales services. I am not sure why BMW is so oblivious to this and continues to look the other way. I got one survey call from BMW after my first couple of services and I told them exactly what happened. No calls after that.
BTW, when VOB said they fixed the roof rattle problem, the whole area was soiled in grease and even the rear quarter windows would catch grease when rolled down!
The car itself is fun to drive and feels solid, it is the after sales service that is mind boggling.
I was comforted to learn today, that I am not the BMW owner that needs a new transmission. I have a 2000, 323i BMW with 68,000 miles. The car has run perfectly and been maintained throughout ownership. Yesterday, I attempted to reverse out of my parking spot, and it would not move, only move forward. The car was diagnosed today, as needing a new transmission. Complete shock!
I have begun to research the issue and have learned that there are many owners of the 3 series from the year 2000 (plus) that have had to replace there transmission due to the exact same problem!!!!
I believe we have a major class action suit and deserve to be paid in full for the amount of money each owner has had to come out of pocket for a new transmission. Our cars should not be exhibiting such problems this early on. There is clearly a defect. Please let me know if you pushed the issue further with BMW of North America. I found over 18 pages worth of complaints at consumerreports.com There must be some kind of recourse from BMW to the consumers for this issue.
I look forward to hearing from you!
Meredith
e-mail: meremcgill@gmail.com
I just reading your posting, and my BMW, 2000, 323i's transmission just failed on January 11, 2007. The car has been driving great and exceptionally maintained. Just this past Thursday I was unable to reverse out of my parking spot. I soon learned that I need a new transmission!! I have 68,000 miles. Certainly, these cars have a major defect. Have you had any success in winning your case against BMW?
BMW told me that since my car is out of warranty, there's nothing they can do!! Very frustrating, as I'm sure you know. Do you have an hard facts on the number of defective transmission of this make and model, etc? Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. I hope you have had success in winning you case against BMW. My direct e-mail is: meremcgill@gmail.com
Thank you,
Meredith
To legally prove your cases, you would have to show transmission problems are prevalent, and also well-known to BMW, for certain model years, and that BMW has not otherwise adequately addressed. I reviewed the Consumer Reports website for the reliability history of the E46 3-Series (1999-2005). The transmission reliability was rated either good or very good for each model year (except 2002 with a rating of excellent).
You might also consult the BIMRS.org website. It is a trade organization for reputable independent BMW service shops. Use it to locate a shop in your area. You might have the local shop inspect the car, and the shop owner may be provide some insight as to any known transmission problems. This can be drawn from experience and/or contact with the national BIMRS shop network.
In any event, good luck to you!
Another thing to consider is the address posted above. I used to live right around the corner from BMW-USA (literally as their offices are at the corner of Chestnut Ridge Road & Glen Road, I lived on Glen) and so please consider my first hand knowledge of the area when I tell you that the above address is incorrect in two ways. The correct address is as follows:
BMW of North America
200 Chestnut Ridge Road
Woodcliff Lake, NJ 07677
Both misspelling the town name and using the old zip code (changed in 1999 or 2000 if I remember correctly) will likely result in your correspondence not getting to its intended recipient.
Best Regards,
Shipo