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Comments
I was supposed to instruct for 2-3 days, but I wound up not being able to go. GRRR...
At the very least I'll make either the St. Louis or Buckeye fall schools.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
The Febreze should help counteract the odor.
Regards,
OW
sd
Car drove quite well - tight, firm suspension, good pick up decent acceleration.
I've had 2 BMWs - 1994 325i and 1997 540i.
Both were my first BMWs and first new sports cars - and I fell in love!
Over the last 14 years I've had the pleasure to garage a number of fine cars -
1998 Porsche Carerra, MB SL 500, CLK 320,Jag VDP, Inf M35x -
The point of listing these is to point out the fact that I'm going back to my roots -
There's something unique about BMWs - and no other car comes close to that
combined marraige of suspension, acceleration and steering.
Having stated this, is there anything inherent in this particular year (2006) and model(325i) to be aware of?
From my recent demos, I hadnt really found a MAJOR increase in performance between the 330i and 325i...is this projection on my part ( Im looking to save every dollar i can) or is the 325i a decent ride?
This 57 year old body doesnt need the off the line mach speed but I dont want to be bored either! (I've got my motorcycle for the speed and a lexus for the comfort)
I need a nice everyday transport with a bit of fun ...
Will the 325i meet my rather conservative needs?
2006 325i, cold weather and premium package
Silver and black interior (big plus!)
under 30 k miles,
body and interior -excellent cond -garaged and well maintained
ride very good -tight, no overdamping, good steering response
OTD $25,000 ( inc tax)
3.9% x 60 m, CPO with maintainance package (2012 and 70k more milage
All feedback appreciated.
Docgary
a)misdiagnose the problem..
b) not fix it and said they did or
c)is the car a lemon??
I got a bmw so I didn't have to go in and out of the shop... this sucks!
Well, that's certainly a contrarian point of view. Most people appear to acquire (the majority lease) a BMW for the driving experience, not for the reliability. If you thought that by spending this much money, you were going to get a stone-reliable piece of equipment, I'd suggest doing more research on the 'net next time, prior to the acquisition. Happiness = reality - expectations. Your expectations were clearly too high.
Good luck. Hope you (eventually) get it fixed. When they're running, they're great.
It does suck, but you'd better get used to it. The only thing that kept me under the allowed mileage on the lease was all the days my 2006 330i sedan was off the road due to spending time in the shop.
BMWs are not Hondas when it comes to reliability. In addition to a BMW, I currently have two Hondas in my family. Our 2+ year old Accord has never needed a repair. Our 2 year old Pilot once had a problem with the keyless remote device, but that's been it.
I've owned a bunch of Japanese cars - Honda, Acura, Infiniti. My 330i needed more repairs than all the Japanese cars I have had combined.
Not to bad.
Regards,
OW
Not bad at all, I'd say. Question is whether I was unlucky or you are lucky. Hard to say what's the norm.
I'm nevertheless on my second BMW now, a 2008 328i coupe. Only 2,000 miles and I think the engine has the same lifters problem I experienced with my 330i. Only heard that sickening ticking noise once so far, hoping against hope not to never hear it again. Other than that, I've noticed some empty deliveries of seatbelts. Here we go again . . .
My wife's 2004 X3 has 70K on it and the only non-scheduled repairs have been a passenger seat SRS sensor under warranty and a set of pads and rotors at @60K.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I also had an oil cooler installed ($1,800 job) for free as the dealer (and BMW techs) couldn't explain why my car didn't come with the cooler just because it didn't have 18" wheels.
I love driving my car. Loving the actual car is weird.
I had some minor, but expensive, body work recently done at the dealer's body shop in Ashland, MA. Since it was partly an insurance repair from a flying rock ding, I was given a Lexus IS 250 AWD. While not bad, it is clearly no comparison to the 335xi. Or probably any BMW, for that matter. The shop did a fantastic job. I was really pleasantly surprised.
By the way, the Lexus rental from Enterprise came with the 6-speed slushbox and paddle shifters. For anyone considering this combo in a Bimmer, GO FOR THE MANUAL TRANNY. While fun for the first 2 minutes, it gets old quickly. And the paddles turn with the wheel, so when you start off and need to shift to 2nd, your reaction will be "where the &%^$^ are the paddles?"
The only thing I'd want more in my Bimmer is to have 300 ft-lbs of torque from 1 RPM on the tachometer, not 1500. I want to leave the line like I was hooked to a giant slingshot. Since that's not likely to happen, and more than a bit wacky, I'll remain very happy with my '07 335xi, especially since the weather is already turning chilly, and the Almanac is predicting a nasty cold snowy winter.
I can't wait for the first time I fire up the rump-roasters!
xeye
Curious, what was the reason for the oil cooler install which you got for NC - did you order it on the car and it wasn't installed? What do 18" wheels have to do with it?
Z
No dipstick, either, but at least the oil level sensors didn't work (at first -- haven't heard of "issues" lately).
Oh, and then there are those wonderful run-flats.
I have a 2003 330XI and am planning an oil change.
Please let me know the following:
1. Is Mobil 1 0W-40 is a good oil for me?
2. How much of oil do I need to purchase for 1 oil change
3. I bought the MANN oil filter from germanfilters.com. is that ok to use?
Thank you in advance
2) You'll need seven quarts for the oil change and it's usually a good idea to purchase an extra quart for make-up oil.
3) Yes the Mann filter is just fine.
Best regards,
Shipo
Z
Best regards,
Shipo
There are those who post here who can tell you where to look for the oil cooler. I'm not among them, and wouldn't have been in any event (even if I could have looked past the RFTs, dipstick/oil sensor malfunction, and much higher lease rates), since I was interested only in the naturally-aspirated engine.
I'm sure you'll enjoy your car, but take really good care of the oil -- most who care change at 7.5K intervals and otherwise follow the pre-"free" maintenance schedule.
Thank you very much.
I went to bavarian autosport website http://www.bavauto.com and they say "you will need 8 quarts". I was not sure if that is accurate. I will buy 8 quarts and use 7 as per your suggestion.
Also, do you think it is a must to change the brake fluid in the 2 year intervals. and when do I "need" to change the manual transmission oil?
Appreciate your help!
Regarding the tranny oil, if you don't track your car, then it should last for an easy 100,000 miles.
Best regards
Shipo
You should change it every two years at the very least. I usually change it every year on my wife's car. My track rats get fresh DOT4 fluid every six months.
and when do I "need" to change the manual transmission oil?
On this question I'll have to differ with my friend shipo; if I was planning to hang on to the car for 10+ years then I'd change the transmission oil(AT or manual), the final drive(front and rear diffs) oil, and the transfer case oil every 50K. That's the schedule I'm following on my wife's 2004 X3, as I intend for it to last long enough to see my now 13 year old through college. I change the transmission and final drive oil on my 1995 3er every 30K, again because it sees the track from time to time. That said, if you are going to flip the car in 2-4 years I'd just follow BMW's maintenance schedule.
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
I said this was a load of hooey, and asked him to check with his technical experts at BMW. If the engine has the same power, it's not about whether the car can handle the speed and cornering - it's about whether the engine can cool itself under stress. He could not find anyone who could explain why the 335xi should not have the cooler if the RWD version came stock with the cooler. After a few months and some gentle reminders (and a change in service directors), I asked about the status. To my amazement, the new service director was aware of my inquiry and said that they would honor the installation of the oil cooler.
When I picked up the car, the lead mechanic said that the engine design is different in the 335xi and handles the heat in a different way. Whether this is true or not, I now had the oil cooler installed. Evidently, the "different design" is still built to accept the oil cooler at the right front corner of the engine compartment. If you look into the front of the wheel well, you should find the cooler radiator fins if there is an oil cooler installed.
My oil temp has never bumped the 250 degree mark even under reasonable stress. It's never seen the track either, and likely never will.
I figure I've extended the life of the car and possibly even enhanced the resale value.
I also see a thread regarding the quantity of oil to use. Is it reasonable to measure the amount that drains and simply put back the same amount? I know a reputable BMW shop that told me they use this practice, but there's at least one obvious flaw in this logic. We've had a dipstick-equipped 318ti serviced there for years with never an issue, but I'm less confident with the 335xi because of uncertainty in the amount of oil actually required.
xeye
You aren't likely to come out ahead at that rate...
Also, that doesn't extend the warranty....
regards,
kyfdx
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thanks
If indeed it is pinging, and not lifter noise, and if indeed it happens under light load, that's a serious problem. Prolonged pinging for more than a second or two is very dangerous for an engine. Pinging is your internal engine parts rattling around under stress. Not good unless it is very brief, and only under heavy engine load.
Have it looked at right away if you aren't sure what you are hearing.
I'm still not sure I'd recommend it. But, you have to decide. Once you are out of warranty, will you be taking it to the dealer for repairs? Or, will you look for an independent? If you are going to the dealer for all service, then it might pay off. Going from 60K to 80K is just one more oil service on the schedule, though ($125?).
That's a big chunk of change to put upfront... to not gain any sort of warranty coverage. I'd be inclined to leave it in the bank and draw it down, as needed.
regards,
kyfdx
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2000 BMW 328i - 95k miles
2001 BMW 325i - 134k miles
1999 BMW 328i - 140k miles
looking at between 7k to 9.5k for these.im a college student in Orlando, Fl.
and i will atleast on a vehicle another 3 years/30miles.
1). At this mileage is it even a wise idea to buy one of these?
2). when do the major things get replaced by on average in the 3 series? In other words, is buying the BMW around 95 - 100k better than one at 133. From what i have read, most problems that need costly replacements happen around 95 - 110k. So is better to go with something with more miles?
3). im willing to pay premium fuel, and do maintainence, but i dont have money for repairs or replacements of major parts. at this mileage/age what issues should i look out for? if i take it to a good mechanic and have them check it out, will he be able to accurately tell me when the different parts are gonna need to be replaced/die or will it happen randomly.
4) i heard that the transmission gets shot up on these cars at 100k. how do i check , to see the car im gonna buy doesnt have that happen.
3) is it better to actually buy a 1997 or 1994 at half the price at around 160k, knowing that probably all major things would have been replaced hence the car will atleast give life for another 25k/3years? are the 3 series <1999 more reliable.
I have talked to BMW owners. and i always get mixed answers. all love their cars, but some have no issues and others have problems all the times. How do i make sure that i buy a car that is in the former group. Anyhelp will be greatly appreciated... I have tried my best to read and get educated. but i feel that i need someones real ADVICE!
Best regards, Lehrer
Best regards,
Shipo
It sounds like your desire exceeds your finances at this point, which is okay, as you can get yourself the car of your dreams once you're making a good living.
I see your point about buying a beater BMW for cheap as an alternative, but this is also risky and you don't get any status points.
So I'd say unless you can spend $150 a month on average over three years to keep a high miles BMW in tip-top shape, then don't do it.
Based on your mileage, it sounds like the opposite is true for you... short or infrequent drives. I would do as Shipo states if you can de-cap your battery (are they sealed?). Might not hurt to throw it on a charger also to see if it still takes a charge.
I went today to the bmw service for oil change and asked them to check my battery. They said that the battery is OK. I finished my 3d year in BMW and had no problems, but RFT was a bad decision. RFT is OK for densly populated western Europe but what about US South-West?
Best regards, Lehrer
Your battery life is impressive.
Best regards, Lehrer
Odie
Odie's Carspace
P.S. - My SIL think my niece should have an AT instead.
I'd say worst case scenario to fix all three items about $2,000 bucks. Best case scenario with all the luck in the world $750.
Also there normal high-miles BMW maintenance to consider...unless the teenager is doing DIY a lot and is motivated to seek out bargain parts, (as some folks on this board do so successfully) you have to figure $100/$150 a month to keep this car safe and reliable. You could spend less but you'll just be deferring the inevitable.
If the parents think a BMW is a good car for the kid, then I'd pick a lower miles 325--I think it's a much better car.
Visiting Host
I was talking with my brother and he thinks the 5 spd is okay, but is concerned with it being RWD. Him and I would be the one to fix all the window issues so those are not a biggy. we are just going to keep looking at other vehicles also. my niece does have $3500 saved up, but that is also to cover insurance and all the little things. She followed my example and has been putting $$$ away since she turned 13 to get ready for a car.
Odie
Odie's Carspace
BMW people keep telling me to give the old 318s another chance and I go drive one yet again, and I keep coming up with the same conclusion--this was not one of BMWs better efforts.
I think a young woman in that somewhat fledging financial state needs a Toyota Corolla or Honda Civic.
Important notes:
1.) Dealer is 3 1/2 hours away (yes, I live in a beautiful part of the country but no close BMW dealers). Needless to say it's a big pain to get down there to have it fixed.
2.) I am mechanically literate. I have gone as far as changing a head gasket on an inline 6 Grand Cherokee but I have no experience working on BMWs (other than swapping out snow tires twice a year).
3.) I could probably find a decent independent dealer in town.
4.) I typically would have to take a day off of work to get the car down to a BMW dealer.
5.) The car has had a few minor issues (squeaking belts - replaced under warranty; noisy HVAC fan blower - replaced under warranty; front brakes at 30,000 - rear still good at 35,000; torn front axle CV joint boot at 30,000 - replaced under warranty; rearview mirror cover came off and would not stay on - replaced under warranty). Really minor issues but the BMW dealer has come up stellar with fixing these under warranty.
6.) Wife drives less than 10,000 miles per year. Car is babied pretty much.
7.) I see a lot of snow. Run Blizzaks during the winter.
8.) I plan on servicing the car myself (oil changes, brakes, etc.).
Any known big problems on the '05's? My thought is that it is the last year of that style and most if not all of the bugs have been worked out.
Thanks in advance!
Paul
I purchased a brand new 2008 3.28i approx. 3 weeks ago. A week after the purchase, I started hearing constant/annoying rattle somewhere around ac fan unit or the radio. It is getting more annoying everyday and really dissapointing when you buy a brand new beamer with 10 miles on it.
My question is: how likely is it that the dealer can fix it w/out making it worse? If they can't fix is, is there anything that I can do?
Thanks all for your time!
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Albuquerque. Sandia BMW who I have been very happy with in regards to their service department. I bought the car in Phoenix due to a much better price.
I would bring it up to the dealer.
I have an 06 330i, its got the dark wood and im not a fan of that with the grey. I wanted to switch it out with the aluminum trim, and ive seen a couple of forum sites where they give u pics and diy directions etc, but do you think this is a good idea? Or will it just create rattles i dont want to mess up the car. Would the dealer do a better job than i would, or do you know roughly how much it would cost to have that installed? (I know the trim itself is around 600-700 dollars)
i dont know how to handle swapping it out
Thanks so much for your help!
I took delivery of a 328i today. When I unlock the door(s), I notice a high-pitched noise coming from somewhere under the hood. When I get into the vehicle and shut the door, I cannot hear it. When I go back outside the car, I hear it. The engine is off the whole time. When I lock the door)s), the noise goes away after about 30 seconds and I hear a gentle "click." Could this be coming from the engine immobilizer or alarm system?
Anybody else experience this? One guy I talked to suggested it could be the fuel injectors, but the engine is "off" when I hear it.
Grateful for any input. Thank you!