BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

roadburner · August 2011

There is no shortage of postings on forums where posters are asking for answers which can easily be found in the owner's manual. The obvious reason is that they are too lazy to look it up for themselves.

I agree, but in this case I wasn't blaming rhmass; after all, he actually requested that the ATF be changed.

Beats me why one would spend so much on an item, yet refuse to learn anything about that same item's functioning, until it's forced upon them.

I sympathize; I'm not too inclined to respond to a question if the answer can easily be found in that mysterious little book in the glove box.

rhmass · August 2011

Hi, roadburner, I thought may be I should post my thoughts concerning the issue which unfortunately I had brought up and had led to much controversial discussions. I posted to check if anyone had the same experience as having the orange transmission light shown indicating the malfunction of the transmission. Upon checking the manual and did what it suggested, the light went away and the car had run smoothly since without any detectable transmission issue. it might be worthwhile to note that in the manual, it doesn't say to bring the car to the dealership, as it usually does, if the light goes away after following the instruction. So obviously it wasn't a significant issue in itself. I, however, happen to be very meticulous about maintaining my car and to keep it at top shape, thus posting the question to see if other might have experienced the same issue. Obviously there isn't anyone who had encountered the same issue.

In the manual, 2002BMWxiT, it does say no need for transmission oil replacement. However a few years ago the service manager of the dealership said to me that BMW has changed their stance on this and would have the transmission oil changed every 100,000 miles. My car has 63,000, so theoretically has not reached to that level. As a CCA member for over 10 years and an avid reader of the Techtalk column by Mike Miller, I have followed what he always recommends. He does recommend to have transmission oil replaced at 50-60,000 interval. However dealers I know appear to be reluctant to do this particular service. May be they are concerned that the customer might blame them, had any issue develope upon oil replacement. This is so true as even Mike said it was somewhat an unknown outcome. Of all the BMWs we have owned (6), other than the 86 325E in which transmission oil was replaced, none of our other ones had transmission fluid replaced before we replaced the car without issue. One did have transmission failure, after we drove through a heavily flooded area at 78,000 miles. Hard to say if it was due to water got in or it was due to the lack of transmission oil replacement. What I am trying to say is that this matter is, I believe, an individual decision and he will then shoulder the consequences.

You have been a very good resource for many with questions and I recalled you actually had answered one of mine previously. However, I have noticed some posters have the tendency to kind put down those with questions. I recalled once I asked the question concerning the inside tracks of my tires wearing a bit more than the outside, while there seemed be no alignment issue as the car tracked straight. One poster answered me saying that I should just run the car backward for a few thousand miles to even out the wear. Not only this was not helpful, but the sarcasm also was very unfriendly. You do occasionally sense this kind of attitude and generally they tend to be new BMW owners/leasers.

puffin1 · September 2011

I never read the manual except to change from
daylite savings time back to normal and I still do it every year. I did read up on the oil viscosity and the damn run flats. I had to read it for the Blue tooth.I screwed that up somehow.I'm a visual learner and when I buy my cars it seems the salesman doesn't spend enough time explaining all the dodads and I end up bringinging the car in for service thinking they know best.I put Mobile 1 in it and it's suppose to last a year.However, I change it every 6 months.I know people that never change their ATF. I figure you spend 50 k for a car the service mgr should know whats best,as all the records are on a computer electronically filed,same as your medical records these days.
Also, I'd never keep a BMW over 50k because of repairs that might incurr. However that's just me.

Mr_Shiftright · September 2011

No it's not just you. A lot of people bail out of a car in the 3-5 year bracket. The loan is mostly paid up, the warranty is mostly over, depreciation has occurred but the car still has value as a trade-in, --so it's not an irrational decision by any means.

roadburner · September 2011

Whatever floats your boat. My wife's 2004 X3 has 121,000 miles on it and it was paid off in 2007. Since the 50,000 mile mark the repair and maintenance costs(including 1 set of four tires) have amounted to $3998- a bit less than six cents per mile, or $83 per month. And note that $427 of that figure represents more frequent oil, ATF, and transfer case changes than BMW calls for. As I said in another topic, I guess I really should buy a new car and saddle myself with $40k-$50k in consumer debt so that I can save some real money...

Mr_Shiftright · September 2011

Well as the car ages the maintenance per month will go up, and you aren't very typical since you DIY a lot.

I always tell people that a used BMW out of warranty is going to cost you about $150/month to keep healthy, presuming of course a) you average that out over a long period of time and b) there is no catastrophic failure.

These days, as you know, an engine failure (rather unlikely on a BMW) would total most used Bimmers valued under $10K.

roadburner · September 2011

On the X3 the only DIY work I've done are the oil changes between the scheduled services- @$227. All other service(excluding tires) has been performed at my local BMW dealer. I suspect that running costs will still be averaging less than $100 per month at 150,000 miles. Even so, lets assume the costs do increase to $150 per month; I'm still $3600-$4800 per year ahead of the guy who is leasing(AKA renting) a BMW for 3-5 years.
And let's face it- a lot of dealers actually encourage the "you'll need to take out a second mortgage to maintain a BMW out of warranty" foolishness, as it provides the dealer with a steady stream of rubes who want to flip their car at the 50,000 mile mark...

busiris · September 2011

Well, they don't sell those extended warranties at a loss....

Mr_Shiftright · September 2011

True, they are betting your car doesn't break and you are betting it does.

That way, when your engine blows up, you get to say WHUPPIE!

$100 a month may be optimistic, but I hope you make it.

kyfdx · September 2011

... I agree... that's a pretty good estimate for average maintenance/repair on an E46/E83 model..

Of course, saying that is average, means quite a few people will have higher costs...

When I bought mine, I decided it was worth it.... to actually enjoy what I drive..

Firebird_EOU · September 2011

drive 80 miles a day, 80% highway, I don't redline the car, don't use sportshift. I will be the test subject on how long transmission would last with BMW's recommendation.
Replaced spark plugs and coils at 100k.

rhmass · September 2011

BMW does recommend replacement ATF and filter replacement at 100,000 miles, so you have already exceeded the factory recommendation.

ilovebeemers · September 2011

Hello all:

I have some kind of issue with the TPMS in my 2003 330XI where I can not successfully reset the yellow light. When re setting, normally, the light should turn red and then disappear. In my case, it stays yellow and then disappears for maybe 5-10 minutes and then comes back again and stays on. I went to independent BMW specialist who replaced the main unit and then checked everything else and could not find the problem why it would not reset. he says every component works correctly but the light is still on.
It is very annoying to have it on all the time and I would love to fix it.

Anyone who has experienced it or knows something about it - please HELP!!!! I really appreciate your attention.
BTW... I am in North NJ and if you know of a shop that can help - please let me know.
Thank you in advance!

roadburner · September 2011

First off, if you love BMW automobiles, then you love Bimmers.
Beemers are BMW motorcycles.
As for your tire pressure issue, your car detects a tire with low air pressure by monitoring the ABS sensors; if one tire begins to turn at a much slower rate the system activates the low tire pressure light. It sounds like your BMW "expert" simply threw parts at the problem. Do you have one tire with considerably more -or less- miles on it than the other tires? That could very well be the cause of the problem.

Firebird_EOU · September 2011

Can you kindly reference this information from BMW for 2006 so I can show it to my mechanic...

Firebird_EOU · September 2011

Check here or other location near you.

http://www.bimmershops.com/new-jersey/city-auto-center

ilovebeemers · September 2011

Thanks for the note. No, my tires are all the same and the issue is actually is with resetting itself. So, it comes back up even when I do nt drive... Just let it sit for a little while when engine is on.

I kind of know that he threw the parts at it and my problem is still not fixed.

bmwdriver7 · September 2011

I have a 1987 BMW 325I convertible and the plastic window of the convertible broke out. I was just wondering how to replace it and where to buy the replacement window?

-Thanks Peter

Mr_Shiftright · September 2011

Pelican Parts offers a kit---this isn't an easy DIY job though:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/101-Projects-75-Conv-Rear-Window/10- 1-Projects-75-Conv-Rear-Window.htm

bmwdriver7 · September 2011

I have a 1987 BMW 325I convertible and the plastic window of the convertible broke out. I was just wondering how to replace it and where to buy the replacement window? The only problem is, it doesn't have the zipper window. Help would be appreciated!

-Thanks Peter

Mr_Shiftright · September 2011

Give Pelican a call (see above posts)

sabtwin2 · October 2011

Hi there everyone,
we have a 2006 325i 4 dr,sedan. we bought it used. we rarely open/close the rear passenger window. Suddenly 2 weeks ago, we opened it and when we tried (elect.) closed it, the window would not rise/close. We took it to be repaired and was told it is a "pulley problem". after shelling out almost $300.00 ( parts & labor). It goes up,but it does not completely flush/seal. Is this a sign of electrical problems in the future?

I also want to know about my automatic car opener, it unlocks the doors, but when I click to lock the car, it does not. I have to pull out the key to do it manually. Does this indicate I need a battery for my automatic car keys?
Thank you for any advice you can give us. This is our first BMW and with all the cost and maintance, it may be our last, UGH!

Thank you in advnce for any help.

SBG

sabtwin2 · October 2011

Firebird_EOU · October 2011

For the door issue you can try to replace the 15amp fuse with 20amp.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2s5GHRZaLFA

http://www.7machine.com/bmw/54468.html

Or you might need a new door actuator.

mylesr · October 2011

Most of the 80K miles on my 2004 325i have been at low speeds. I want to use an injector cleaner and replace my fuel filter (never replaced this previously). Any cleaner injectors better than another?

paddy159 · October 2011

The shop that repaired the rear window should have "initialized" the window when they were done. Unless they specialize in bummers, they probably don't have the expensive scan tool and software required.
I've got a 2006 325i and have found that bummer dealerships don't pay their technicians enough to attract good ones. If you live near Roseville, CA, stay far away from Roseville BMW. They break more than they fix. Good luck, hope you have better luck with yours, than I've had with mine. Doubt the lock problem is a low battery issue, if it were you should have other problems with the key. Abummer dealership oughta be able to tell you what the problem is, but I would look for an independent shop that specializes in bmw, mercedes, audi....

shipo · October 2011

In this day and age they're all pretty much snake-oil; current fuel standards require more than enough detergents in pump-fuel to keep your fuel-injectors clean.

Mr_Shiftright · October 2011

BGK-44 is a very good injector cleaner but you may have a hard time finding it. Most of the cheap stuff in chain stores is worthless, but BGK actually does work. My friend runs a very high end Porsche/Audi shop and he uses it, so he should know.

qbrozen · October 2011

i have found it on amazon in the past.

roadburner · October 2011

BMW recommends Techron. I'd use it or BG 44K every 3000-4000 miles if you don't use a Top Tier gasoline.

runningdoc · October 2011

BMW sells chevron techron under their own label as the recommended addative.
Get it from your dealer or from an autoparts store. It's about $15 @ BMW.

shipo · October 2011

Unless I'm missing something, BMW actually recommends AGAINST any fuel system additives (Techron or otherwise) for pretty much every car sold in the U.S. and Canada since about 1999 or 2000.

roadburner · October 2011

Shipo, I thought so too until I came across this BMW SI Bulletin. Note that it references the use of "BMW Fuel System Cleaner Plus"- AKA Techron:

FINAL PROCEDURE FOR RELEASING THE VEHICLE TO THE CUSTOMER
Advise the customer that it is necessary to add one bottle of BMW Group Fuel System Cleaner Plus PN
82 14 0 413 341 with either TOP TIER Detergent Gasoline or Premium Fuel, with a minimum octane
rating of AKI 91, the next time that the vehicle is refueled.
For optimum cleaning, advise the customer to add one bottle every 3,000 miles when refueling. Refer to SI B13 05 06 BMW Fuel System Cleaner Plus

runningdoc · October 2011

Yes, I too read this bulletin. It appears that BMW is suggesting same. As I said, BMW is selling this as noted above, although one can buy an identical product at most auto parts stores under the Chevron logo...

jaj · November 2011

My iPod connection appears to be without power and I'm wondering if it may be due to a blown fuse. Does anyone know which fuse that would be? - I can't decipher the fusebox map to determine that. The vehicle is a 2009 328 xDrive. Thanks for any suggestions.

bimmer4lyfe · December 2011

Permanent solution - after numerous attempts over 50K miles and 4 years to remove/reset the TPMS fault light in my 2003 330XI - was from an independent mechanic who has worked only on BMWs for over 30 years. Remove the dash panel, place a piece of thin black silicone rubber over the area of the fault light, and replace the dash. Ahhhhh! That light might be illuminated back there, but I can't see it. It's been back there for 3 years and 24 thousand miles... no problems. Checking your tire pressure by sight and gauge on a regular basis is easy. IMO, a very useless feature coupled to the ABS. I asked him first if he could remove the bulb or circuit, but a lot of the fault lights/circuits are all connected like old Christmas tree lights.

Mr_Shiftright · December 2011

If it were my car and I were guessing (I have a BMW made MINI) I'd try the fuse for the Aux. Power, if you have such a fuse on your list.

puffin1 · December 2011

Any one on here doing it?
TY Puffin

puffin1 · December 2011

Made in England though.I mean you havs a six speed getrag, not a cvt.Why won't a BMW dealer work on a Mini es pecially if there isn't a dealer in your state?Would you drive the Mini in the snow with front studded tires?
TY Puffin

Mr_Shiftright · December 2011

BMW dealers often work on MINIs here in the States, as long as they have factory authority and the proper tools and training.

Sure, I'd drive a MINI in the snow with snow tires---the problem would be more about ground clearance, but I'd expect it would be pretty good in the snow. Driving in snow is 50% driver ability anyway.

For a BMW I'd recommend snow tires on all four wheels, and dedicated snows at that.

rfl · December 2011

One of BMW's more inane "big brother" features is disabling the airbags when there is no human being sitting in the passenger seat. When my wife uses a cushion in the passenger seat(for a hip ailment) on long rides- the "airbag disabled light" comes on indicating no airbags on the passenger side.. This is a serious design flaw that needs to be corrected. We paid for and expect working airbags irrespective of the fact that a cushion is used on top of the seat cushion. The weight is there so this should NOT be an issue. The dealer handed it off to BMW siting a "liability issue" and BMW handed it right back to the dealer who cannot/will not offer a fix. Chat rooms are filled with "fixes" that seem to involve the installation of a resistor/diode system inline with the sensor plug...something I don't want to mess with. Anyone got any great ideas?

runningdoc · December 2011

I have a 335i w/snows all the way around on dedicated rims. works good in snow & gives u flexibility to install when u need.

shipo · December 2011

Keep in mind that ALL manufacturers are now required by law to depower or disable the airbags on the passenger side when the system is not able to detect an adult sitting in the seat; this has nothing to do with a design flaw.

xeye · December 2011

My wife's 328xi has about 40,000 miles on the odometer. The 4 year 50,000 no-charge warranty is due to expire in August 2012. My dealer originally wanted to charge $2,495 for the 6 year 100,000 mile extension, and has agreed to lower it to $1,895 if I buy it before year-end. He claims that BMW would charge $1,700 for front & rear brakes and suggests that the reduced charge is a good deal. My local indie shop quoted ~$1,200 for the brake job including all parts & labor.

I've just seen a message referencing an Atlanta shop where the quote seemed to be $945. Compared to that, it seems that my "trusted" dealer is trying to screw me over.

The finance weasel also wanted to charge me $4,290 for the mechanical warranty extension for the same extended period.

What do you think of the offer, and what is a reasonable amount to pay, assuming any amount is worth it?

We have about 18 months until the car is paid off, so we will be keeping it for another 2-3 years, at least.

Thanks for your input.

rfl · December 2011

Hi Shipo... always appreciate your knowlable comments. For the life of me I cannot fathom the rational for this "mandate". I could understand a reason for mandating that the airbags remain operative...but INoperative? It makes no sense, My old Miata had a switch to turn off the front seat airbags if, for example, you were carrying a child (or a dog) in the front seat...but that was a two seater! Perhaps if your could point out a reason for this non-sensicle rule, I'd understand it. In the meantime, my dealer has pledged a follow through to find a way to end-run this sensor with BMW's coopeation. I am told that this is a constant complaint. I have also contacted the NHTSA who's engineers also cannot explain the mandate!

nyccarguy · December 2011

If only the driver is in the car during a collision where the airbags deploy, the passenger side air bag WILL NOT deploy, therefore saving your insurance company the cost of replacing an air bag that deployed for no reason.

shipo · December 2011

The reason for the law is pretty much the same reason your Miata had a kill switch; to prevent injury to children and lightweight occupants of the right front seat during a crash.

qbrozen · December 2011

Question you will have to ask yourself is what maintenance you will need in those 2 years. Add it all up and see how it compares to what they are charging for the plan.

Mr_Shiftright · December 2011

Also read ALL the "exclusions" in the plan very very carefully and ask questions about any exclusion you don't understand.

dino001 · December 2011

You seem very angry for no reason. Just because somebody charges more than somebody else, or tries to sell you something, or even charges more than you think they should, it doesn't immediately mean they are screwing you over and it does not make them weasels. Their job is sell you stuff and your job is to evaluate value of the product and say "no thank you" if you think it's not worth the money.

First, there are some legitimate differences in cost between independent mechanic and a dealer shop (costs related to staff, shop, franchise). More importantly, in free market society anybody can charge whatever they want for a product or service and it doesn't mean they are screwing people over. They simply have too high prices - and market will take care of that by having fewer people using the service. Just because Wiliams-Sonoma charges more for cookware that appears to be the same than Bed Bath and Beyond, doesn't mean W-S is evil. It's OK to have too high prices (from ethical point of view anyway - it may be a stupid business decision, but being stupid is not criminal, yet) as long as you say what they are before entering agreement. It's a business decision to charge X amount, somebody else makes a business decision to charge Y and then you make business decision to use or not to use those services.

My definition of "screwing somebody over" is delivering less than promised, by using subpar parts or subpar labor (or not performing promised work), selling unnecessary service under "you have to do it or else...", or bait and switch tactics. Just simply saying "my work is worth a lot" is not screwing people over.

On maintenance or warranty service agreement. Only you can make determination how much it is worth. I find extended warranties not worth their prices, but it's my personal opinion based on observation of several years me buying those warranties and using them. Service contracts (maintenance) are all over the place - from highly overpriced to worth every penny. It is really about what they cover, what the price is and where you are planning to service your car (reference price). Seems like you don't think very highly of your dealer - why then would you subject yourself to more contact? Go your way and take your money to an independent garage. But again - no reason to call people weasels and be angry.

BMW 3-Series Maintenance and Repair

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