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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    I had that prob on a 99.
    dealer would not/could not fix it (it pulled)
    no adjustment on front except toe in
    (no camber caster adjustment) I went
    to a private mechanic that ground a slot in the strut to give more adjustment.
  • djp2cdjp2c Member Posts: 39
    Transport Canada has announced another recall for 2001 & 2002 Nissan Maxima's

    The recall number is 2002088 and involves a safety defect that requires replacement of Control Arms.

    Too bad they didn't cover paint and a dozen other defects too.
  • agillis2agillis2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Maxima GLE with 40k miles. At around 38k the front right side of the car developed a rattle sound. Sounds like a loose bolt. Anyone else with similar problems or suggestions of what it may be.
  • leonivleoniv Member Posts: 120
    Hi everyone,
    I have an 01 Max GXE auto with about 17k miles on it. My steering wheel has just started to shake at low to moderate speeds, but it shakes with or without me applying the brakes so I don't think it's the rotors. I assume this to be an alignment issue. I'm going to rotate the tires and see if that makes a difference. Is there something I'm missing here?

    Leon
  • 96_i30_5sp96_i30_5sp Member Posts: 127
    When was the last time you had the tires "balanced" and rotated? An alignment problem would be if the car pulled to one side when driving straight, your issue is most likely unbalanced tires.
  • nissangirlnissangirl Member Posts: 186
    Need advise. I just recently went to my dealership for an oil change, and needed a couple of minor things (belts, air filter) changed. Well, after I left I noticed my air blower, inside the car, would only blow at full speed, and not any other setting. So I carried my car back and they said that I needed a new blower switch, which they damaged, and I would not have to pay for it, however they did need to order the part. The parts salesman called me to let me know my part was in. So I talked with the service rep. and he said it would take about an hour to replace (of course, on their dime, not mine). Then he said, have you had your Radiator flushed or had your Transmission serviced? I told him "no", and he said that these 2 things were recommended at my mileage, which is 36k, it just turned over to that the day I went for my oil change. I asked him "how much", he said $99.95 for a radiator flush and $99.95 for the transmission service. I freaked! This sounds outrageous for the radiator flush of $100! I feel like they are trying to get something out of me since they have to spend an hour and pay for the part that they broke. Of course, today, I do not have time to get these things done, will go have the part put on however, that they owe to me, but I feel like he is trying to figure out a way of getting money out of me. Or is it really something I need to consider having done?

    Any input on these subjects?
  • mrdetailermrdetailer Member Posts: 1,118
    They are good ideas, but unless they can explain why the cost is justified, I would have a 3rd party do it. Tranny places often run specials about exchanging fluids, and Radiator specialty shops will definitely do more than run a bottle of flush then drain it.
  • 96_i30_5sp96_i30_5sp Member Posts: 127
    A coolant flush on 2000 Maxima is scheduled at 60k/48 months, so you probably don't "have" to get it done right now. With that said, I think it's a good idea to replace the coolant more frequently than that. However, you can get a coolant flush for $50 at most JiffyLubes so $100 sounds too much to me. As for the transmission service, ask them to clarify which type of service they do for $100. They can drain and refill the fluid, which should cost only $30-40. They can also do a fluid exchange service which could run between $60 and $80 at quick lube places. The best way to do it is to drop the pan and replace the filter in addition to the fluid, which would be a bargain for $100. However, I don't think you need to have the filter changed at such a low mileage. Check your owner's manual for recommended transmission fluid service and go from there.
  • nissangirlnissangirl Member Posts: 186
    I thought $100 for a radiator flush was a bit much. I think he was trying to get that part & labor money from me for the part that THEY broke.

    As for the transmission, I'm still trying to figure out why he didn't ask me these maintenance questions when I first arrived 2 days ago for my oil change.

    My car has always run so smooth, I hate to have someone do things to my car that are just not necessary.

    Thanks again, I needed all the advise I could get. Maybe they think "blondes" don't visit Townhall...Ha!
  • gslevegsleve Member Posts: 183
    on the tranny is a fluid drain and refill if you use a really good synthetic fluid ie Amsoil or Mobil 1 and just drain the fluid every two years the filter in the tranny really doesn't have to be changed because it is only a screen.

    A good synthetic keeps varnish and oxidation of the fluid to a minimum even if you decided not to use the synthetic and used regular tranny fluid than a annual drain and refill would keep the tranny nice and healthy. I concur with gentlemen who recommended that the fluid radiator fluid does'nt need changing until 5yr or 60,000 miles yet thereafter every 30,000 miles or 2yrs is recommended then to you can uses havoline 5yr 150,000 miles yet I would prefer to split the mileage in half or better yet not execeed 60,000 and if mileage was reached use a 4yr or 5yr time frame to change coolant, one does not have to use a flush to change radiator fluid a drain along with a water hose for a 10min in the radiator would work better yet fill with distilled water only and and run car with high heat for 20min drain and refill half and half distilled water and antifreeze (remember only distilled water)
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    that "jiffy lube folks are min. wage people lightly supervised who are in a hurry.
  • 96_i30_5sp96_i30_5sp Member Posts: 127
    Please don't take my above remarks as a recommendation for JiffyLube. I used them only for a price comparison. A reputable independent shop would be a much better choice short of doing it yourself.
  • nissangirlnissangirl Member Posts: 186
    If I was in an extreme hurry for an oil change ONLY, then I might consider a place such as that. But I really like using my Nissan dealer, but I will check around prior to such expensive repairs, etc. It's just that I have dealt with them for many years, we have bought 5 vehicles from them, they know us, and they know how we treat our cars that we buy from them. But for high-priced repairs, we do price around first, and they have in most occassions matched other prices, to try to keep our business with them. But I have not priced around yet, for radiator flush or a transmission maintenance. Not in a big rush for either, actually, I only have 36k on my '00 SE.
  • rao95rao95 Member Posts: 1
    Yesterday, I bought a 1995 Nissan Maxima that has 142000 miles for about $3600.00 Car looks and runs great. This is just for commuting within the city limits.

    When I start the Engine, I see "Check Engine" symbol on the Meter Controls. Is it a Problem??
    How can I avoid this problem??

    How many more miles can we depend on this Car?
  • lonesomeduvlonesomeduv Member Posts: 50
    These sites have been lifesavers for me:


    http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecu.html

    http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/ecudecoder.html


    They tell you how to retrieve the "check engine" code yourself, how to figure out what they mean, and how to reset the light.


    In my case, I have a recurring intermittent speedometer problem that keeps setting off the light. I've had the speed sensor replaced twice, and it still goes off, so we suspect it is the speedometer itself. I don't particularly want to spend the $400 or so to get it fixed right now, and I'm 95% certain that it's not affecting anything else, so I've just been living with it.


    I've also read that O2 (oxygen) sensors are common problems with Maximas that cause the light to go on.


    Good luck!

  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,511
    Autozone parts stores will also read the codes for you at no charge (using a diagnostic tool).

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • pjreporterpjreporter Member Posts: 32
    I write for a major business publication andma looking for Nissan Maxima drivers to share their thoughts and experiences with me and possibly be names in the weekly feature I write. Can you please email me at lori_f@eudormail.com ASAP? Thank you.
  • nissangirlnissangirl Member Posts: 186
    Could you verify your email address again.
  • pjreporterpjreporter Member Posts: 32
    Reporter for a major busienss daily seeks Nissan Maxima drivers to talk about their experiences with the car and also be mentioned in the column as a driver. Please email me at lori_f@eudoramail.com by November 4 at 5:00 p.m. EST
  • ray83ray83 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Maxima GLE with 15000 miles on it, and have experienced the exact same issue as the post #910.

    During acceleration I'm noticing significant knocking and pinging. I use only premium gasoline and have tried other brands without any success.

    I returned from the dealer today from a service appointment. The mechanic drove the car and said he could not hear the pinging. He also commented that he performed a diagnostic test, which indicated the car had never mis-fired and also stated that my car had the updated ignition coils.

    I asked that service manager ride with me so that he could hear the noise first hand. During the test drive he was able to hear the pinging and commented that it was a "normal gas ping"

    I was told that if there was nothing showing up in the diagnostic test as abnormal, that there was nothing that needed to be fixed.

    I'd hate to hear what a "ABnormal gas ping" sounds like!! I'd appreciate any comments or feedback from anyone with similar issues.
  • ray83ray83 Member Posts: 2
    For other folks with this issue, I found a Service Bulletin (NTB01-059) from Nissan North America at the following web site; www.nhtsa.dot.gov

    The Service Bulletin states that 2000 & 2001 Maximas built before 3/16/2001 exhibiting "knock detonation" (pinging) should have the ignition coils replaced.

    This also applies to vehicles that may NOT identify the error (DTC P 1320 Ignition Signal Primary) in the diagnostic test. The Service Bulletin still recommends the changing of the ignition coils. There are additional details in the bulletin.

    I guess I'll be making yet another trip to the service department, or better yet, a different dealer..
  • weltonwweltonw Member Posts: 21
    Interesting that you have the updated coils and still have pinging. Did you go in at some point to have the coils replaced per the TSB? If so, were you having pinging before that?

    The manual (for my 2k2) does say the following about pinging (in section 9 under "Octane rating tips"):

    "However, now and then you may notice light spark knock for a short time while accelerating or driving up hills. This is no cause for concern, because you get the greatest fuel benefit when there is light spark knock for a short time under heavy engine load."

    I wonder what classifies as "light spark knock"...
  • robertrrobertr Member Posts: 125
    I had this problem also last spring with my 2000 SE. The dealer could not reproduce it when I had it in, so he could not/would not change coils under warranty. Now I have over 36,000 miles - not sure if warranty still applies to coils?

    Last Wednesday it was knocking really bad when accelerating from 2500 rpm in 2nd or 4th gear, but has since stopped. In my experience, I've found the problem comes and goes. Sometimes changing gas brands fixes it. I think sometimes gas stations get bad gas or regular gets put in the premium pump.
  • aheath1aheath1 Member Posts: 7
    Hi all-
    My 2000 Maxima SE (40,000 mi) has recently started to stall out, even after warming the engine up a bit. Anyone have any idea what the problem could be? Thank you in advance for any help you can give!
  • egarcia528egarcia528 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1991 Maxima GXE. Sometimes I can hear water splashing in the engine compartment and I cannot figure out where it's coming from. It happens after a heavy downpour so water is being trapped somewhere there. Any suggestions?
  • brislance1brislance1 Member Posts: 87
    Any advice on how to remove the glove compartment bulb mounted in a recessed area on the top of the compartment? Impossible to get my fingers around the bulb. Nothing in the manual about this bulb. Does the plastic unit in which the bulb is mounted snap out somehow? Thanks!
  • cmm54cmm54 Member Posts: 1
    Hello and help! After replacing the battery some 12 months ago, the air bag red light continuously flashes on the dash. The dealer, having only heard of the problem by phone, has informed me that the air bag controller card must be replaced at $1000! Question: is that necessary? Does the air bag work w/out the card? Can the light bulb be disabled? Any one I mention this to, says just disconnect the bulb. How? Thanx in advance. :-)
  • dabigsweeddabigsweed Member Posts: 4
    00' SE 5spd.

    I bought the car with 17K and now has 26k the clutch whins when you take off most of the time then goes away. The dealer stated that this is a known issue with the Maxima and there is nothing wrong. Has anyone had this problem?????
    I have Nissan looking into it......but where that leads i can only guess.
  • blh7068blh7068 Member Posts: 375
    It sounds like the throwout bearing. It may just be inherent with the design and therefore may not be a problem. I have owned manual cars with the clutch out it was pretty loud(whine). You may want to compare to other manual maxes, if possible.
  • wayside1wayside1 Member Posts: 36
    The squeaky/chirping fan in my 97 Maxima is getting annoying to the point that I turn the heat off so I don't have to listen to it.

    Is there anything I can do to fix this short of tearing the dash apart and replacing it? Any way to grease it, maybe?

    Thanks,

    -Charlie
  • dabigsweeddabigsweed Member Posts: 4
    the dealer said that the 00's have had problems with a whinning clutch and they will not fix it. I have never heard about this and I am currently working my way though Nissan about it. i wondering if any one had ever had a load clutch. i even called onther dearlers and they said that they had never heard such a thing.
  • dklaneckydklanecky Member Posts: 559
    And found for a "noisy clutch", the first thing to have checked is the "Release Bearing, worn, dirty, or damaged." There is no second thing to check for a "noisy clutch".

    Try that specific direction with your Nissan dealer and see where you end up.
  • dabigsweeddabigsweed Member Posts: 4
    the dealer said that the 00's have had problems with a whinning clutch and they will not fix it. I have never heard about this and I am currently working my way though Nissan about it. i wondering if any one had ever had a load clutch. i even called onther dearlers and they said that they had never heard such a thing.
  • gg2k2segg2k2se Member Posts: 109
    Yes, my 2002 SE just started with a loud whine/screech sometimes when releasing clutch in 1st gear. I looked on nhtsa.gov and they have a service Bulletin listed #NTB02084 stating "howl noise when clutch is released". I've made an appointment next week with service. Anyone else with info regarding this.
  • roar1roar1 Member Posts: 193
    On a cold start, my engine has a tapping noise for about 5 secs. and then goes
    away. It almost sounds like a valve tap ! It only does this maybe once every
    2 - 3 weeks. It doesn't matter if the car has sat overnight or for 3 days.

    Btw, I have a ' 00 & a ' 02 and they both do this on ocasion. Very disconcerting !
    Any ideas ?
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    Are you using Nissan or Fram oil filter??
  • roar1roar1 Member Posts: 193
    I use only Nissan filters, 5W-30 Valvoline , changed every 3500 miles. No other
    cars I've ever owned , including Nissans have ever done this. I have a '92
    Nissan P'up. It doesn't do it. I had a '94 Altima , it didn't do it. I had an '86 Max.,
    it didn't do it ( VG 30 ). All with the same maintenance practices. The problem seems
    to be with the VQ's. Again , not a big deal but disconcerting none the less.

    Btw, did you know that the '02-'03 Max's use the smaller SENTRA oil filter
    compared to the '00-'01's .Doesn't make sense to me. Bigger engine
    smaller filter !! ?? Is it the Nissan "Bean counters"? Dunno !
  • dabigsweeddabigsweed Member Posts: 4
    Is it a 5spd? If so, i had talked to the dealer about this and they said that a lot of people have had problems with stalling because the way the clutch engages so early........

    if you have an automatic then...not sure.
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    I had that problem on the new 99, car sat overnight, 10 sec clatter on startup.
    Switched to non Nissan filters - never a repeat of the clatter since.
  • edtaylorjredtaylorjr Member Posts: 1
    I am also having a loud screeching problem (on occassion) when starting in 1st gear. I asked my local dealer to look at it but they would not since the car has more then 12,000 miles on it. Has anyone else experienced this same problem and had it fixed??
  • roar1roar1 Member Posts: 193
    Lots of questions. Was your ' 99 a Maxima.? What filter did you use ?
    Are ' PureOne' and 'STP' filters any good ? What filter would you
    recommend based on what you've read in these forums ?

    Interestingly enough, I read somewhere here at Edmunds on one of
    these boards that the ' 02-' 03 Maximas use the smaller Sentra
    filters to enable the oil pressure to come up faster. I can't possibly see
    how because the Sentra filter is the same diameter as the regular
    Maxima filter and is shorter by ONLY 1/2 inch. I'd hate to stray from
    Nissan filters but I will if I must.
  • wainwain Member Posts: 479
    99 Infiniti (V6 same)
    I switched to Purolater.
    Try it and see.
  • gg2k2segg2k2se Member Posts: 109
    I found the Nissan Service Bulletin #NTB02084 for howling clutch posted on the maxima.org web page after searching for "clutch noise". It tells dealers to replace the clutch disc and provides the part #. I took my car in to my normally unresponsive dealer with a videotape of the howling noise and a copy of the service bulletin. They ordered the part for me. According to maxima.org, this is a common problem that different material on the new clutch disc eliminates.

    You know it when you hear it, normally after the clutch is warm (stop and go traffic) and when you are riding the clutch like in your driveway or starting up a steep hill.
  • ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    That's a good idea to make a video of your problem. Then they can't pull that crap of "gee, we couldn't find or hear any problem". I'll have to remember that one. Nice work.

    Seeya
  • mtofanmtofan Member Posts: 12
    I have a 92 Maxima. The car does not start from time to time. The starter, alternator and battery were changed. In order to start it, the car needs to be rocked from side to side for a few seconds. It usually starts. The odd time it doesn't start that way. In that case it needs a boost. The dealer screwed me of all this money and the problem is not fixed. Anyone else had any problem? I'm selling the car this week so I don't care too much about it anymore. I just want to know if anyone had this problem.
  • dinu01dinu01 Member Posts: 2,586
    Well, if it's getting sold, forget about it.

    Now there's a possibility some wiring is not making contact properly - you seem to have eliminated any defects in the components (unless one of these that was replaced was defective, possibly the starter), but then again, I'm not a mechanic.

    Dinu
  • 95se95se Member Posts: 1
    Bought my 95SE in Dec 94, never had a problem with it, and guess what, it still got 80% original brake pads left.
  • alexg4alexg4 Member Posts: 14
    I bought my sheer silver '03 GLE a week ago. The car is everything it was described to be on these posts and by the dealer. I love the looks and the interior is that of a $30k - $35k car (paid $25k including dest.) The only concern so far is the fuel efficiency. I am getting on average 14.5 mpg in the city, the sticker says 20 mpg. I don't think it's the tire pressure, I keep it at 40psi, a bit high perhaps.
    Did anyone else have this problem and is there a way to fix it?
  • ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    Use premium gas, don't beat on it for the first 500 miles, change oil at 1000 miles, and then start calculating mileage. Driving style obviously contributes the most to mileage, especially if you make all short trips in city or long freeway stints. I have an 00 SE with the 3.0 motor and get 19-20 city and 25-27 highway religiously and my drive to work is 1.5 miles and I'm in MN where it's COLD so we have the sh&tty gas with the additives, etc. After that if you still are getting 14mpg, then something is definitely not normal or you have a major leadfoot (easy to do with Maxi).
  • alexg4alexg4 Member Posts: 14
    I am trying to take it easy on the gas pedal and must admit that I am doing a decent job of that for now. One more thing I can think of is that I got my windows tinted and because of that was running heater all the time. Also it is possible that they filled up the tank with crappy gas at the dealership when I picked up the car.
    How do you reset average mpg. on the trip computer?
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