Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

jeg72 · July 2003

I have 8 '96 Maxima with the Bose CD/Tape player head unit. Recently the stereo has been cutting in/out. Head unit stays on and the lights don't blink or anything but the sound goes in and out. This is accompanied by a pop (both going out and coming back). It has been doing this for quite some time now but the duration of the outage and the frequency that it occurs are increasing. It seems to only happen after I first turn the car on. Once it has run for a while the problem doesn't occur anymore.

I am guessing that the problem is that something has become loose. Once things heat up and expand a bit the problem goes away. Anyone else have similar problems or advice.

Thanks.

monte4 · July 2003

Their has been lots of probs and complaints with the Potenzas on the Max.(just go to Maxima.org many complaints) many have had that same issue(not as bad although) with them including myself. I have had them balanced a few times and they finally conluded that one of them has a dead spot in it and replaced it, its a [non-permissible content removed] [non-permissible content removed] expensive tire.

p100 · July 2003

For those asking about the 04 Maxima, maxima.org is a good site to visit. There is number of complaints about the 04 Maxima quality already. One major complaints is vibration in the steering wheel. Probably another great example of the good old American workmanship - balancing the tires wrong at the factory and dealers doing the rebalancing improperly, and also using "high quality tires".

frankk4 · July 2003

I purchased a Maxima in September. It has consistently given me low gas mileage - 15.5 mpg - doesn't matter city or highway driving. The dealer checked it out and said there is nothing wrong with the car and nothing he can do about it. Any ideas? Anyone with a similar problem?

bdemas · July 2003

I have a 92 GXE with 144k miles on it. This morning when I put it in reverse the engine RPMs started to go from near 500 to 1500 and back, the car lurched with the rpm swing. I give the car a 15-20 second warmup prior to putting in gear. I put it in park and let it warm a bit more. It still did it when put back in gear but to a lesser degree. Unfortunately I had to get to work, so I just went with it. It drove better after a mile or two.

I checked the transmission fluid when I got to work, it had air bubbles in it. Is this normal? Has anyone else experienced this kind of behavior? If so what was the fix? TIA

jpelli · July 2003

Very early on in the 'Nissan Maxima Problems' messages (#3, #10. #14) cold start up engine noise was discussed. The noise is oil starvation clatter due to inferior flow-back valves on the Nissan oil filters. The Purolator PureOne oil filter solves the problem because of its superior silicone anti-drainback valve. BUT TRY TO FIND ONE FOR A 2003 MAXIMA SE! I even have the part number from Purolator: PL14610. BUT TRY TO FIND ONE! What is this the Twilight Zone! Purolator claims to make it BUT TRY TO FIND ONE! I have a brand new 2003 SE and I don't want to hear that clatter upon start up! PLEASE HELP!! Is any one else having this problem!? Can I get it on line anywhere? I've even tried that. No luck! Oh, by the way, I'm stubborn too. I don't want to use anything else! CAN ANYONE OUT THERE HELP ME!!
Joe

p100 · July 2003

Is your car an automatic or a 6 speed manual? In any case, the mileage you describe seems way too low. I would think you should get about 21 MPG minimum in combined driving with A/C on. I have been getting consistent 26-27 MPG out of my 98 SE with 5 speed manual since I bought the car new in 98. You have a larger engine, but the car is not that much heavier. So even with some fuel economy penalty, 15.5 MPG is not normal.

I suspect something is not quite right with the fuel injection system or the car computer. It may be running too lean because some sensor is feeding wrong information into it. Then the only way to get more power is to give it more gas, which will kill your gas mileage. I had this problem years ago with a VW car - it was never fixed. Do you need to push hard on the accelerator to make the car accelerate normally?

frankk4 · July 2003

The Maxima is an automatic. I know that the mileage is too low (15.5 mpg), but the dealer did not come up with anything helpful. Maybe I can go back to him with some of your suggestions to check it out. I was just wondering if other 03 Maxima owners had problems with the gas mileage. And, no, I don't need to push hard on the accelerator to make the car accelerate normally (or at least it doesn't feel hard). Thanks for your ideas.

kp40m · August 2003

I do about 75% highway driving and with the A/C on, I average about 22 mpg. The few times I have filled up after almost all highway miles, my mpg was about 23 to 24. I have not had any tanks that were almost all city driving so I can not comment on what this mpg would be. I use 93 octane gas of varying brands (and have not noticed a difference between them).

p100 · August 2003

What I meant by "pushing hard on the accelerator" is whether it takes substantial throttle opening to accelerate. For example a properly performing car will cruise at 80MPH in top gear on a level road with very little throttle opening.(The throttle body butterfly valve will be almost closed) If you just touch the accelerator gently the car should accelerate willingly and respond immediately. If you need to press accelerator a lot to make the car respond, this is an indicator that the car hesitates for some reason. Your gas mileage is way too low for this car to be running normally (unless you hotrod this vehicle constantly in city traffic). I get 17 MPG in combined driving from my 95 Nissan SE V6 4X4 pickup with A/C on. It weighs almost 4000 lbs (more than your Maxima), and the gearing is so low that the RPMs are about 3800 at 80MPH in the top gear. And aerodynamically speaking, the vehicle is a shoebox compared to a Maxima.

Seems to me that for some reason the fuel/air ratio is off in your car. This can greatly affect fuel consumption - usually negatively. There is a number of sensors on the car that can be feeding wrong info into the computer: throttle position sensor, airflow sensor, temperature sensor, altitude pressure sensor, etc. If one of the sensors is feeding the wrong signal voltage to the computer, but within their normal performance range, the engine light may not come on. Also, performance of the EGR circuit may be affected if the temperature sensor indicates that the engine is cold when in fact it is warmed up.

glb5 · August 2003

I have a 96 Maxima with 75000 miles and i have been listening to this clatter every morning for nearly 8 years. Eventhough it sounds as if the rods are going to smash the crankshaft on every cold start, appearently they won't, as my engine is still as sound as the day i drove it home from the dealer. After trying every oil filter known to man ( and the oil filter is the problem, not the starter or any other thing), the one that will keep the noise at bay at least for the first 2500 miles after an oil change is a Castrol 7317, believe they work. Hope this puts your minds at ease a bit.

jpelli · August 2003

Thank you, glb5, for your response. But does anyone out there know anything about the Purolator PureOne Oil Filter, P/N 14610 for 2003 Maxima SE? Where I can buy them? On-Line? Are any of you 2003 SE owners having this clatter at cold start? What have you done about it? Thanks.
Joe

p100 · August 2003

Do you have Discount Auto Parts stores in your part of the country? They carry a good selection of Purolator oil filters and can order you any Purolator filter number if they do not have it in stock.

You may want to visit the following website: www.pureoil.com. Click on "Where to Buy" and you get a list of stores that carry Purolator oil filters.

pierre52 · August 2003

Going over cracks in the road, my passenger front wheel makes a "clunking" noise which is getting worse. My local garage can't identify the exact cause of the problem (can't get time at the dealer for another 3 weeks). Too early for the shocks to be worn (45,000 miles). Anyone experience this and what was the problem?

jpelli · August 2003

I tried every hyperlinkable (how's that for a word) store in Purolator's 'Where To Buy' list. Nobody has it (the PureOne for 2003 Maximas), yet Purolator says they're making it. I want to know if in fact any 2003 SE owners out there have found it, or better yet found a need for it. Are you having this cold start clatter on your 2003s? It's probably a new filter and it hasn't gotten around yet, but when we can get it ladies and gentlemen, I think that cold start clatter will be history. Purolator's very ad on-line for it mentions the anti-drainback valve "for superior protection at start-up". How about you prior-year Maxima owners using the PureOne? Does it in fact work? Thanks.
Joe

p100 · August 2003

Well, I tried the Discount Auto Parts website and they offer the filter number you are referencing. I believe that there are two filters made: one is a regular Purolator filter which may or may not have the anti-drain valve that you mention and the other filter is the more expensive PureOne filter which has the valve. The more expensive filter sells for about $ 6, the cheaper one for about half that.

I have always used Nissan oil filters in my 98 Maxima SE and never had any problems or lifter noise on startup. I live in Florida, so I do not have experience with really cold starts.
I use the cheaper version of the Purolator oil filter in my 95 SE V6 Nissan pickup and have no problems.
What oil do you use in your car? I use 10W30 Castrol GTX.

themailman1 · August 2003

First time here. Have a 2000 Maxima, Where is the fuel filter and is it a big job changing it? What are the best sparkplugs and are they hard to do?

asti1 · August 2003

ok...I got a 99 Maxima Gxe.I would like t o inform you folks that Maximas are known to have problems with the knock sensor.That sensor if defective would lower your mileage considerably ( 15/ mi or maibe little more). IT would NOT trigger the Check engine light.The computer would know if the sensor is bad,and retards the timing,so your car will feel lazy,and the gas mileage would be low. Also,it is best to use premium gas.My car was knocking with low octane,so no more cheap gas. If you would like to find more details about our cars or talk to other Maxima owners go to forums.maxima.org . There is a lot of important info,and you can find answer to most of your questions

wojo67 · August 2003

I have a passenger door that barely opens and closes now. I've heard this had happened on other Maximas. Tried Silicone spray on the Door Arm with no success. Any options before trying a dealer service??

Bill

p100 · August 2003

Message number 1459 mentions possibility of defective knock sensor. This could potentially cause a serious mileage drop due to engine computer retarding the timing, as mentioned in the message. Do you use premium fuel in your vehicle? If not, you should use the best brand name premium fuel and run several tankfulls through the engine. Also, have the knock sensor checked.

vgerdes · August 2003

I had the noise for several months. Mine was the starter. Nice and quiet now! It always happened on a cold start. I had the wife start the car while I listened and the only thing that was in that part of the engine that made that kind of noise was a starter that wouldn't disengage quickly.

ccermak · August 2003

Damn. Finally happened. My 2000 SE with 53K miles finally on my way to work this morning the Service Engine Soon (SES) light came on. First time ever. Between here and maxima.org I've read about a zillion others that this has happened to but up til now I was lucky. I've heard coils, MAF, Oxygen sensor, gas cap, and on and on. Sooooo, what to do, unplug the battery for an hour tonight and see if it comes back on, or just take it in and get the code pulled? Doesn't seem to really run any different yet. Open for suggestions....

metro13 · August 2003

i have an 03 maxima with 4k miles on it. i bought it new. If it's cold or warm it knocks at start up. i use mobil 1 oil and nissan OEM filter. what gives?

jpelli · August 2003

Metro13,
What gives is that the OEM Nissan oil filter is junk when it come to stopping cold start clatter (or in your case cold and warm). I claim that the Purolator PureOne Oil Filter with its silicone anti-drainback valve prevents this. I'm still trying myself to locate one. p100 in message #1457 claims to have found it on-line at Discount Auto Parts but when I went there, no luck. See my next message to him.
Joe

jpelli · August 2003

p100,
I went to Discount Auto Parts on-line and all I was able to come up with for my 2003 SE was Nippon, Bosch, Denso, and Advantex oil filters. Please paste the URL for the exact page at Discount Auto Parts that shows the Purolator PureOne filters that you found. I even used the search feature for 'Purolator' and came up nothing. Are we talking about the same Web Site? Again, please send URL for exact page. I'M GOING TO FIND THAT FILTER OR I"M IN THE TWILIGHT ZONE!!
Joe

sgrd0q · August 2003

ccermak - I would go to the dealer and pull the code. I did just that and in my case it was an oxygen sensor that they had to replace.

Or else you can just wait and see if the SES light disappears. There is no sense in disconnecting the battery - if the problem is not repeated for a few days the light will go off by itself. I think you should try to get the code ASAP precisely because it may go off and you won't know what the problem was.

ccermak · August 2003

Hi,
Just came back from Autozone. Got the code pulled for free. It's Oxygen sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2. Says "slow response" and also "bad voltage". Autozone tried to pull up the part number and they don't have it, says dealer never released it. Also said it's easy to put in. How much did it cost for you to get a new one put in at the dealer? Guy at Autozone said it's really easy, he showed me the part from another car and it goes in just like a spark plug with a wire connecting to it. Only difficult part is raising the car to get in behind the engine because this senser is between the cat converter and engine. I'm calling the dealer next to get price on new sensor. Will update post just to fyi people in case same happens to them.

Thanks

df2000 · August 2003

isn't sensor 2 locate after cat convertor(between cat and muffler), and just monitors the cat performance and not involve in engine work. So, if it cost too much, nothing happen if you change it later.

sgrd0q · August 2003

ccermak - glad to hear it's the O2 sensor - this is the easiest and cheapest to fix.

I didn't have to pay for my repair - it was done under warranty. It took very little time to install - so I assume it is an easy job.

A word of caution - ask the dealer how much the whole thing will cost, and if at all practical (inexpensive) do it there. Some Y2K cars (Federal emission) have 3 sensors, the California emission cars have 4. Then they switched to 4 for all cars in 2001. On top of that each sensor has a different part number. So to play it safe - let the dealer install the correct part.

Also - I just had a look as the Service Bulletin - after replacing the sensor they need to reprogram the ECM to prevent this from happening again. Definitely worth going to the dealer. Also, if you print the SB (available at maxima.org) you may get this done for free as it is a known problem with the rear O2 sensor.

ccermak · August 2003

I called the stealer. They want $99 for diagnostic, $138 for part, plus @ $100 to put it in. That's like $350 or even more. Seems outrageous to me. I can skip the diagnostic and just tell them what to do, but then if it doesn't solve the problem they're saying I'm paying for something that doesn't need to be done so that's the point of the diagnostic. Seems like caught between rock and hard place. Do I skimp and save the $99? I've been on the .org and I pulled the TSB and I have it printed out. The moderator there is telling me skip the 02 and just have them flash the ECM and it'll take care of it most likely. Then if comes back then replace the 02 sensor. Any more thoughts?

p100 · August 2003

One option: Buy the part and install it yourself. You need a special slit socket made to install such sensors. Auto Zone may even provide free rental on this tool (I think they do).

p100 · August 2003

Try www.partsamerica.com. Then type L14610 in the search window and the L14610 Purolator filter should come up. This filter however, is not the PureOne filter, which is PL14610. This is the one with the silicone anti-drain valve that you want.

According to one site I found the PL14610 is available at PepBoys.

kimmy0868 · August 2003

First let me say that this is my first and last Maxima!!!!! I have an '00 GXE, 5 spd. At 25,500 the coils went bad , that was February 02, now at 41,000 the coils have to be replaced again. The check engine light is glaring and the car misses pretty bad, but only once in a while. The cost of repair is $750.00. This is insane and I have contacted Nissan in CA about this problem. They are basically giving us the cold shoulder. Delise informed me that since I do not have my car serviced at a nissan dealer(1hour ride) but that I do own another nissan that they will consider paying for the coils, but that was an unlikely scenario. They will put a note in my file that if or when they go again they will replace the coils only but I will have to foot the $350 labor cost. !@#$%^&*!@#$% to Nissan. They can keep this hunk of junk, they have lost a customer here and anyone that crosses my path that is considering buying a nissan!!!These should be recalled and Nissan needs to stand up for their product!

metro13 · August 2003

thank you jpelli, i have joined the hunt for purolator oil filter. i'll let you know if i can find one.

i had noise coming from the front end and the hood seemed to flutter. I brought it to O'BRIAN NISSAN in hawthorne NJ, they did a great job. the guy behind the desk grabbed a bunch of tools and went out and fixed it on the spot. This is what customer service is all about, a job well done.
the sales department, that's a different story, just terrible.

jpelli · August 2003

p100,
Pep Boys On-line does not sell the PureOne, P/N PL14610. You have to get it from one of their stores and there aren't any near me. In message #1457 you said you saw it at Discount Auto Parts On-line. Can't you just copy/paste the URL for the exact page, in a follow-on message? Thanks.
Joe

merlion · August 2003

Anyone here installed the K & N air filter for your 5th generation Maxima ? any problems so far ? how many miles since ?

p100 · August 2003

Discount Auto Parts only sells the L14610 filter online, as I mentioned in my previous post. This is not the filter you want. You want the PL14610 Pure One, which has a silicone antidrain membrane covering the inlet oil holes. I could not find this particular filter for sale online either. I went to two local Discount Auto Parts stores here in central Florida and found the PL14610 filter on the shelf in both stores. The cost was just under $ 6. The cheaper filter, the L14610 is about $ 2.85. For some reason, Discount Auto Parts offers only the cheaper filter online (partsamerica.com).

merlion · August 2003

Thanks for the info. But I am looking for info abt k & n air filters not oil filters.

Anyone ?

ccermak · August 2003

Tough call on K&N. I have one and noticed zero difference in anything other than having to change it less often. Still have to clean it every 20-25K miles and that's more work than just changing it out so I think it's a wash.

mirth · August 2003

Just an FYI for anyone who encounters this problem: I've been getting a 'CD ERR F3' message whenever I try to play a CD in my '02 Max GXE. I brought it in and they have to order a replacement CD player.

jpelli · August 2003

p100,
Sorry, I misunderstood your post #1457. Thanks for taking the time to check out the PL14610 filter at your Discount Auto Parts stores. Can you imagine the frustration of you finding it in two of your stores and I can't find it anywhere locally or on the World Wide Web! I even have Discount Auto Parts stores all around me and none of them have it yet. How can they have it in Florida and not here. That makes no sense to me. Anyway, I think they will eventually get it. I'll just have to wait. Thanks again for your replies.
Joe

metro13 · August 2003

you should be able to find the PL14610 oil filter at any Strauss Auto. i picked one up the other day and put it on. let's see what we hear.

merlion · August 2003

ccermak,
Initially I wanted the K&N air filter, so that I can reuse the air filter later. But on reading the forums at maxima.org & the instructions on how to re-oil it, it become apparent to me that I am likely to screw up my MAF sensor after that. And I have to go to dealer for repairs.

And no increase in performance & abt 6 times more expensive than Nissan OEM air filter, possibly waste time at dealer, what gives ?!

What is the point of having it then ? so that I can get more trouble with my car/engine ?

ccermak · August 2003

I think in some cases certain vehicles are capable of noticing a slight increase in performance and/or mileage by going to a K&N. Tests prove it does filter out more stuff while letting more air pass through, I just don't think it makes much diff in our Maxis. I've had mine for over 2 years and have had no MAF probs. I think that's only an issue if you WAY over oil the filter. Overall it's about a wash. I do get great mileage if I keep it under 70mph on the highway, like 28mpg or even better at like 60-65mph, but who does that anymore????

abfisch · August 2003

To everyone of you that have these problems, I had similar ones and went through 1.5 years of dealer, corporation, and others.

His the the solution to all.

1. After they tell you they cannot find it, and have checked the tires and wheels numerous times, do the following.

2. Document your visits. Then take the FRONTS rotors off, and have a certified mechanic, NOT THE DEALER, put it on a lathe, and test for runout, not just on a micrometer. You will most likely find that after the tires and wheels, it its a crapy, OEM, front brake rotors that is either out of round, or whose runout is terrible. Replace them with a quality rotors (NOT OEM) such as a powerslot rotor. You will notice IMMEDIATE IMPROVEMENTS.

Hope this helps.

aggiedog · August 2003

02 SE - I'm currently on my 4th CD player. This one seems to work perfectly. One of the replacements had the same error you have and it was straight out of the box.

p100 · August 2003

While it is true that defective rotors will contribute to overall wheel imabalance and shimmy, they by themselves will not make it very pronounced, unless they are extremely poorly made and very imbalanced. A good quality rotor or brake drum will be balanced at the factory. Normally they spotweld weights on brake drums and remove metal from the edge of the rotor to balance them.

One reason why rotors get distorted is improper tightening of lug nuts. You have to torque them to specified torque, not have some kid at some tire store use an impact wrench and tighten one lugnut to 200 ft-fbs and the other four to 65. I do not allow anybody to tighten my lugnuts with an impact wrench. I ask for the lugnuts to be handtightened and torqued to proper spec.

Incompetent wheel balancing and shoddy tire quality are the biggest problems causing vibration and shimmy. When was the last time you saw somebody balance your tires to 0.1 oz (approx 3 gram) accuracy? And when was the last time you had them mount the wheel on their balancer using a flange adaptor instead of a centering cone? Flange adaptors made by Haweka Co. are used by professionals to properly center the wheel by its lug holes on the balancer. Professionals also claim that 0.1 oz accuracy is required for proper wheel balance. Yet almost all commercial balancers are set to 0.25 oz found-off mode (or 5 gram for metric weights) because standard wheel weights come in .25 oz or 5 gram increments. Nobody bothers to clip weights for better accuracy anymore. Given these choices, you are still better off with 5 gram roundoff vs 7 gram (0.25 oz). Remember that only metric wieghts come in 5 gram increments.

I have wheels on my vehicles balanced wrong so many times that I am positively disgusted. I finally found a few places that can do it fairly well and none are tire store chains.

mirth · August 2003

knock on wood that four's a charm for you. Hope I don't have that kind of problem.

aggiedog · August 2003

The last radio is excellent. I know there's a mileage limit for radio replacement but I don't know what it is. I got the 4th one at about 13k miles. Each time I called they wanted to know how many miles I had on the car.

530bmw · August 2003

I have a 95 Maxima with a problem with the fan/blower. When I set the fan between 1-3 it does not work, but it works at 4. I believe it is the resistor that causes the problem. Does anyone know where the resistor is? Is it hard to get to and replace it myself?

Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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