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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • rad10rad10 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima, had MIL lamp (Service Engine Soon light) come on intermitently since 7,000 with codes indication multiple cylinder misfires. First time I took it in dealer said it was "bad gas". After multiple times taking it in dealer agreed at 39,500 after warranty expired to replace all 6 ignition coils at no cost. Dealer admits Nissan has this problem. After changing all 6, car runs like new again. Nissan is offering to pay for these, just need to find a dealer who is willing to work for you and not try to rip you off.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    As I mentioned before, VW and Audi recalled hundreds of thousands vehicles recently because of faulty ignition coils. Nissan probably used a cheap supplier just like VW and Audi did. However, Nissan did not recall any Maximas due to faulty coils.
  • victord1victord1 Member Posts: 94
    I just made the first unscheduled visit to the dealer. This past Monday, due to the extreme cold temp., I left the car idling for about 1/2 hour before driving. But as soon as I pulled out of the lot the Service Engine Soon light came on and it stayed on whenever the engine was running.

    I checked the manual and checked the gas cap to make sure it was not loose as they suggested, and it wasn't.

    Finally, today, I decided to stop by the dealer and had it checked out. I was told an O2 sensor had gone bad and was been replaced. The service manager said they didn't know why it went out so soon. I told him I hoped it won't happen again for another few years.

    Is it typical for an 02 sensor to bad on a relatively new car, '03 w/11700 miles}????? I never let the car idling for more than 5 minutes before, always used 93 octane gas, and very rarely that I would race the engine......even then it would never pass 4000rpm.

    My old integra went 70000miles+ before it needed a new sensor.
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,441
    just becasue the light went on with an O2 sensor code, it doesn't necessarily mean that the sensor is "bad". The diagnostic systems gets lots of input data, and interprets it (based on programmed parameters and tolerences). If it finds a reading that is out of range, it generates the code that the software tells it to. So, you are getting a OOS reading that is mapped to a bad O2 sensor as the likely cause.

    Remember, there isn't a code for "loose gas cap", the OBD system just recognizes a vapor leak condition (IIRC) and trips the light.

    It is very possible that if the dealer had reset the light, you wouldn't have had further problems (assuming no more super cold long idle sessions). But, take the free O2 sensor and be happy!

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    My rear O2 sensor went bad a couple months ago, to the tune of $330 at the stealer. I have a 2000 SE Max and it had about 55K miles on it when the SES light came on. After reading many posts on other boards besides Edmunds, I've come to discover that not only are coils a well known problem with 5th gen Maximas, O2 sensors are as well. There's even a TSB out there for the rear O2 sensor. It has to do with replacing the sensor and then reflashing the ECU (Computer) so the parameters that trip the SES light can be widened. Most tuners recommended just flashing the ECU as the sensor was probably fine and the ECU is just too sensitive. I opted to change the sensor but probably wouldn't if could do over again. Just my .02
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    These sensors are sensitive to alcohol contamination, so if you get gas with higher than permissble percentage of ethanol in it, it could contaminate the sensor.
    $ 330 for a sensor seems a lot of money. Aren't there aftermarket sensors for Nissan Maxima, like the Bosch brand that can be purchased for about $ 45? I own a Mazda 626 and O2 sensor prices are just as outrageous from the dealers. Auto Zone sells sensors that will fit my Mazda for less that $ 50.
  • ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    I tried for the Aftermarket O2 sensor. I was at Autozone to get the SES code read for free. We then went inside and the Autozone guy tried to pull up the part #. No such luck on getting Bosch. The only place to get an O2 sensor for a 5th gen Max is thru Nissan. The part alone was like $145!! Stupid thing looks like a spark plug. Then the "diagnostic" done by the dealer, which I said I didn't NEED because I knew the code already from Autozone's analysis (but the stealer talked me into because if they fixed O2 and that WASN'T the problem they'd have to start over and do anyway blah blah) costed $70, plus the labor of like 1hr($85-90) becuase the sensor was frozen in and they had to heat it etc to get it out, plus tax and whatever and BOOM we're looking at $330. I was appalled but the service guy gave me the rundown and I caved and paid just to get out of there. Now I'm back in the SAME situation only with flickering headlights, domelight, etc and a suspect alternator with no SES light to go by.
  • ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    I forgot to mention the $79 charge to reflash the ECU.
  • jotaemejotaeme Member Posts: 1
    The "check engine" like came on at about 65K miles and the test indicated that the ignition coils needed to be replaced. Thanks to this site I learned that this was a common problem. The result was that Nissan agreed to pay for the $600 repair that the dealer wanted me to pay. However, the light "check engine" light came back on after a few months. The car runs great, but today I took it in because I need an emissions inspection and now they tell me that I need to replace the two rear O2 sensors at a cost of $460! I declined the repair since my mechanic can perform that repair for a lot less. They charged me $89 for the test and left the light on. Can another mechanic perform this same test and can they also reset the "check engine" light? The dealer said that after the repair I would have to wait at least a week before I can have an inspection done, otherwise the machine will pick up the wrong codes. By the way, the car is now 90K miles and runs great. It is my 3rd Maxima, but seems to be the one with more problems. Any comments?
  • aggiedogaggiedog Member Posts: 238
    You guys wouldn't believe how easy it is to replace these things. They do look similar to spark plugs (slightly larger) and all you need is some ramps to get your car in the air and an open ended wrench. Slotted sockets are not always necessary. After a $400+ estimate for an old mazda I owned, I knew there had to be a better way. There are lots of sites like Autozone and Carparts.com (many others) that sell these things for a fraction of the dealer cost. I don't know if anyone has ever challenged the warranty on these things but must should last to about 100K miles. Of course, most never do.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    Go to http://www.buyoxygensensors.com/. Much less than the dealer. Buy them, and have your mechanic install. THEN let the stealer reset the codes.
  • victord1victord1 Member Posts: 94
    Yeah, hopefully the dealer had actually replaced the sensor, instead of just resetting the code.

    I looked at the paperwork more closely this morning and it showed that a heated 02 sensor was replaced. Now, what is a "heated" 02 sensor????

    And according to ccermark, post #1750, his "rear" 02 sensor went bad. How many 02 sensors are there in the max's engine????? Again, as I remember, my old integra had only one in front of the manifold.

    Anyone care to educate me?
  • ccermakccermak Member Posts: 260
    I believe there are at LEAST 3 if not 4 O2 sensors in the Max. If you go out and find the TSB for the rear O2 sensor problem you can find diagrams on where they're located. I personally am not much of a mechanic, except for VERY basic stuff like changing oil or working on my dirt bike, and it's too damn cold here (-21F today in St. Paul MN) to work without heated garage.

    On a side note, if I do buy another Nissan, my wife likes the Murano, you can bet your [non-permissible content removed] that I'll be buying from the same dealer and showing them all the $$ I've spent there on repairs in order to negotiate a VERY good price.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    come heated or not. O2 sensors work only over a certain temperature range. Beyond that they are inaccurate. To make them "come on" their accurate range sooner they sometimes heat them. They also only work over a narrow air/fuel range, but for most street driven cars they are fine to let the computer keep the air/fuel in that range. If you are into high performance then you have to get a "wideband" O2 sensor, which works outside of the stoichiometric range (hope I spelled that right). This means the range where the O2 just completely consumes the fuel, basically. These generally are much more expensive, and have a much shorter life (typically 1000 hrs). High performance engines usually run rich (and never lean because lean means "boom").

    There, more info. than you could ever use ;-).
  • zmxh20zmxh20 Member Posts: 3
    I have that problem on my 99 maxima GLE and failed the inspection. Changed the ignition coil and cost me $145.00 for each. But, still the car has vibration. I may need others to change.

    I seen someone said the Nissan has paid for it for their mistake for this ignition coil. I contact Nissan long time ago and they did not response.How can i claim back to this problem from Nissan on this ignition coil. My warrenty just over at that time in 2002.

    As for the service engine light, I spend over $400.00 at dealer to fixed it. They said it was carbon build up and took 5+ hrs for them to fixed with soaking chemical solution.

    I think it is Nissan bad spikes and they did not tell the customers. Now, my car is 75K. Can some one tell me how to contact Nissan on which dept.

    This is my 2nd Nissan Maxima and my 95 was doing fine. This 99 has several problems. Your advise is appreciated.

    Guy from Texas...
  • aggiedogaggiedog Member Posts: 238
    For most vehicles, all that's needed is to unhook the battery. That typically resets them.
  • yteemanyteeman Member Posts: 1
    I've had my 2004 Maxima since Oct 1, 2003. I've had to change a daytime running light twice since I took delivery. Now again one of them is out. Any news on recalls/service advisories on this subject?
  • kkman1kkman1 Member Posts: 2
    I purchased a 04 max in Oct 03 and had zero problems untill cold weather came!Now i have trouble starting car.Also seems to be hesitating when i accelerate at slower speeds.Dealer gave me a memo on cold weather starting procedures.Have to bring car back a third time!Problem getting worse.Any Ideas to solve this would be a help.
  • veilleux1veilleux1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 maxima that makes a short hoot noise when started when cold outside-i think it is a IAC valve, since this is common in ford vehicles i am familiar with the sound. has anyone dealt with this??
  • kmarcumkmarcum Member Posts: 2
    Driving home from the airport Friday in 0 degree temps the sun/moon roof cracked, shattered and flew out on the road while driving. I immediately drove to the dealership. The dealer says they have never seen this happen. Has anyone else had this happen?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Glass can suddenly break, even violently, if it has been tempered improperly. Tempering of glass means subjecting the glass article to a predermined heat cycle with tightly controlled temperature settings and rate of change. This helps reduce internal stresses in the glass, which are induced during manufacture. I suspect that your sunroof panel was improperly tempered when made. Subsequent exposure of one side to cold temperature,with the other side kept warm, caused the internal stresses to increase to the level that resulted in violent failure of the article.
  • johnjill99johnjill99 Member Posts: 2
    KKMAN1
    I have also experienced the same problem over the weekend. Friday morning my wife started the car up without any problems. She went into the house to get our daughter only to return to find the car stalled. The car has not started since. Called the dealer and it is to be towed to the dealership first thing Monday morning. This is not the first time that I have had problems with this car. Since I purchased it new on 3-12-03, it has been back to the dealer as follows: Twice for "Service Engine Soon" light coming on, once for leaking sunroof, once for CD player not working, a fog behind the information screen, and the rear drivers side pillar molding came loose. I am completely disgusted with this car, so I've called Nissan USA twice now. The first time for the sunroof problem, and the second as a result of the car not starting. Spoke to a Matt directly at 310-771-8454 extension 8454 or for voicemail 1-800-647-7261 extension 8454. If you have a chance give him a call so that nissan is aware that there is a problem with their Maxima. In my opinion nissan should refund us our money so that we can get cars that will actually start. Anyone considering the 04 Maxima do yourself a favor and get something else. DO NOT BUY A 04 MAXIMA!!!!!!!!
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Man, that is a long list of problems for a new car. My 98 Maxima SE has never been to a dealer since I bought the car. No warranty issues, no issues since, except for routine maintenance and the hood pneumatic struts got weak with time.

    What did Nissan do to the Maxima?
  • kkman1kkman1 Member Posts: 2
    johnjill99

    Want to thank you for all your info.I will call nissan first thing monday morning.I was finally able to start my car on Sunday afternoon,but who knows whether it will start on monday.I'm bringing car to dealer on monday.Let me know how you make out!I'll do the same.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    A "memo on cold weather starting procedures"? What is this? What procedures? Are these people serious? How about taking responsibility, recalling the cars, and fixing the problem! Last time I checked this car did not have a diesel engine with a defective glow plug relay timer.
  • dklaneckydklanecky Member Posts: 559
    I recall there was a problem (charactistic if you will) with the VQ engines (3.0L for sure and maybe the 3.5L) in that unless they were throughly warmed up each time they were started, you could have a problem getting them restarted.

    We simply got in the habit of making sure the car's temp gauge had risen into the normal operating range before we'd shut the car off (on 95 and 00 Maxima's and now on 03 Murano).

    Sort of a PITA if you just need to jockey a car around in the driveway to let someone in or out for example but it was an issue.

    Any chance something like this is what's causing the issue your experiencing?
  • simon_txsimon_tx Member Posts: 42
    Veilleux1,

    it has something to do with the grease used on the starter. I had seen a link on a Maxima enthusiast's website for a 4 gen (99 MY) Max.

    In his case, he replaced the grease used with a lower viscosity grease that had a broader temp range.

    If I can find the link I'll add it.

    I don't think it is much of a problem since most people have it and seem to dismissed it.
  • simon_txsimon_tx Member Posts: 42
    Veilleux1

    check out this link

    http://www.motorvate.ca/mvp.php/516
  • ramped1ramped1 Member Posts: 159
    I have the same cold starting problem with my 92 SE with the VQ. If I run it for just a second to pull it out of the garage and shut it off, I have a heck of a time re-starting. Like you say, wait until the temp gauge moves before shutting it down. Saw a reason for that problem some time ago on these boards, but can't remember when.
  • ccle1974ccle1974 Member Posts: 1
    Have my 04 Maxima in the shop as I write this. Service guy just called me basically saying I am crazy and come pick the car up. Car just does not warm up good. I am actually cold after 30 minutes of having heat set at 72. I have to turn up to 80 or higher to get it comfortable. Also, occasionally when car is stopped it blows out freezing cold air. Once you get the rpm's up it goes to warmer air. I noticed other complaints in this dicussion group. Has anybody heard what the problem is and how to fix it? Any recalls on this?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Seems to me that these cold start problems are related to the fuel enrichment circuit. When the engine is cold, it obviously needs more fuel (or less air) than a warm engine. On carburated engines, this is accomplished with either a manual or automatic choke. Fuel injected engines rely on the engine computer to enrich the mixture. It appears that once you start a cold car, the fuel enrichment circuit functions as needed and provides extra fuel. In the case of Maxima, if you shut if off before the engine warms up, and then attempt to restart, the computer fails to activate the circuit again. This is analogous to closing the choke on a carburated engine, starting it, shutting it off after a few seconds, then opening the choke, and trying to start the engine again.
    The above is just a theory that would explain this phenomenon. If what I am saying is true, then reprogramming the PCM, or redesigning the cold start circuit is the answer. I have never experienced these problems with my 98 Maxima, but I live in Florida where it never gets too cold.
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Your problems are classic symptoms of improperly functioning automatic climate control system. I prefer manual air conditioners for this reason, and the only car I own with an automatic climate control system is an 83 Merecedes 300 SD. These auto control systems rely on preprogrammed temperature controller, which receives a signal from the elecronic temperature selector panel. Temperature controller then controls a series of vacuum motors or electric valves which mix the cold and warm air in right proportions. Depending on the system, any misrouting of the vacuum lines or electrical wires will result in system malfunction. My first attempt would be to check the system against its electric and vacuum control schematic to make sure everything is hooked up correctly. The second step is to test individual valves in the system. A malfunctioning valve will also cause problems. There is also a temperature sensor inside the vehicle, which provides constant feedback to the temperature controller in form of a voltage signal (sensor functions as a variable resistor). There is a lot of components in the system that can cause problems. Only systematic troubleshooting will discover the problem. Of course, there is also the possibility that Nissan redesigned the auto temperature control system for 04 and there is a design flaw in the system. However, my hunch is, that the design is OK, but cheap components with poor reliability, or shoddy workmanship is to blame.
  • johnjill99johnjill99 Member Posts: 2
    KKMAN1
    I just got my car back from the dealership tonight. According to them the car was flooded and that is the reason why it would not start. I told them that this is crazy and that there is more to the problem. So they kept it an extra day and repeated my exact steps the morning I had problems. Sure enough the car started fine and then stalled a few minutes later. The mechanic then checked the computer codes. Nothing abnormal according to the readings. They ended up re-adjusting the fuel injection system and according to them everything is fine. When I went to pick up the car it started right up and appears to be operating normally. I am certain that there is an issue with the computer system. Therefore, I am still in contact with Nissan USA to figure out what they are planning on doing about this problem. I'll keep you posted as to what is happening.
  • pathstar1pathstar1 Member Posts: 1,015
    It's a classic flooding issue. When you start it cold the PCM is in "choke mode" (extra fuel to keep it running). If you then shut it off, there is extra fuel left in the cylinders. This can foul the spark plugs (it soaks into the ceramic). When you start it again and the plugs start to warm up, that fuel breaks down into a conductive material and shorts out the ignition spark or reduces its' effectiveness. This effect is really bad on the Mazda RX-8. Interesting it happens on the Max. It may be related to the small low energy ignition coils too (unable to "blast" their way back to working). I haven't noticed it on my 2001 Pathfinder (also the VQ 3.5L V6), but I don't tempt fate too often.

    Solution - let the engine warm up a bit before you shut it off to get out of "choke mode". Then when you shut it off, there will be no excess fuel in the cylinders, and no fouling of the plugs.
  • kmarcumkmarcum Member Posts: 2
    Nissan replaced the sun roof under warranty. I asked if Nissan was experiencing this problem around the country? Reportedly 4-5 sunroofs have broken due to heat or cold extremes.
  • 04maxse04maxse Member Posts: 1
    I bought 04 max SE two month ago and two weeks later I noticed the brake and abs warning lights flash on and off. When this happen the speedometer needle drops down to zero for few seconds and goes back to the current speed I am on. Took it a dealer and they were not able to ‘find a problem’ and got back the car. But the problem was still there and getting worse (more frequently than before) when I took it back to the dealer the second time. This time the service tech was able to see the problem, as we were test deriving it. This was TWO weeks ago and the car is still in a shop, I was told they don’t get any fault code from the computer and have not seen this problem before. Please advise what steps I can take and/or if you have any idea about this issue.
  • alcanalcan Member Posts: 2,550
    Intermittent open circuit in the vehicle speed sensor.
  • dnapolidnapoli Member Posts: 3
    Should the windshield rubber liner be flush on my Maxima on the top left corner. I have had two leaks and the dealer first said they resealed the windshield, the liner was still not flush about an inch gap. Next time I brought in same leak they said they cleaned out the sunroof drain holes could not find the leak. To me it is obvious the the liner should be flush I can see the corner of my windshield on the top, it like the ran out of liner on the last inch. I have also had to go back for a check engine light three times. It seems like they are ignoring the problems since everything is still under warranty. Now I am at 35k miles though. I am wrong on the liner.
  • jmaxejmaxe Member Posts: 198
    I don't exactly know what you mean by flush but my 01 windshield is completely sealed in the rubber gasket all the way around. No visible gaps and never any leaks. Good luck.
  • jmaxejmaxe Member Posts: 198
    I have replaced the bulbs on both sides at least once a year on my 01 GLE. First one side then the other, either the parking light is out or the brake light is out. Sometimes a wiggle of the socket is all that's needed but sometimes the filament is burnt. Glad my lease is up in 30 days. For several reasons I've switched back to an Accord EX-V6.
  • dnapolidnapoli Member Posts: 3
    There is about a One inch gap on the top left where the molding does not meet. You can see the top driver side corner of the windshield. This also happens to be where the leak is in my headliner. First time I brought it to the dealer they said they put their window guy on it and he sealed it up, which he didn't still the gap. Last time they said it was the sunroof drains and avoided the gap. I am going to take it to another dealer next week. I am also going to call Nissan consumer division, b/c this seems like an obvious problem that should be fixed. I think these guys just try to push me off until my warranty runs out. Did I also mention I have been there three times for a check engine light? This is my second Maxima and I am not sure I will get another one. They keep going up in price and I am beginning to question there reliability and service. Problem is I don't like anything else in the same price range. Amazing, the dealer was like must of leaked because it was raining hard. Dang, I guess I should not drive when it is raining....
  • 6thgear6thgear Member Posts: 2
    Good day everyone. I bought my first Nissan in March of 03, a Majestic Blue SE 6-speed Maxima, traded my Acura TL. The car has been beautiful, just has one draw-back, at speeds above 55, the front floats. I manage to talk a friend into purchasing a 03 Maxima shortly after I got mine, and over the weekend went for a drive, his doesn't float at speeds above 55, or as a matter a fact, any speed (of course unless the wind is blowing hard). Any ideas as to what may be causing this?
  • p100p100 Member Posts: 1,116
    Majestic black Bridgestone Potenza tires.
  • 6thgear6thgear Member Posts: 2
    If you're right P100; "Then Da@M. that really bites!!!" ... Any other thoughts?
  • rbross1rbross1 Member Posts: 2
    For those of you with 2002 and 2003 Maximas, you may want to check the Nissanusa.com website regarding a recall on the Engine Sensor. I just checked my VIN against the applicable VIN's and my car fell under the Recall cars. I just called my dealership to make an appointment. If I hadn't checked the website, I wouldn't have known since I still haven't received anything in the mail. Just a heads up to those of you that don't know yet!!
  • hitecheerhitecheer Member Posts: 1
    Just received the recall notice for my 02 maxima. It is the sensor issue that exists in 02 and 03 maxima, according to the notice. It also says the problem can cause "Service Engine Soon" light on. I have been struggling with this problem for a long time, despite many visits to the dealers. Hopefully this is the real reason that can solve this mystery.
  • jpellijpelli Member Posts: 13
    Hey kp40m!
    Read your post #1734. I've got the same problem with my '03 SE. Did you ever find anything out when you got your car serviced, like you said? Have a feeling a number of us have this problem but I've never found anyone here that has a solution. Hope to hear from you. Thanks.
    Joe
  • brianzibrianzi Member Posts: 6
    Here's an oldie but goodie. I have 47K on my maxima and the check engine light came on. Sounds like the ignition coils are the problem. I am waiting to hear from Nissan if they will pay to replace them. If they don't, is it easy for me to replace them myself? Those suckers are expensive. I had a Honda Civic that had 150K with no problems. I have had to deal with the shady brakes, shady paint job, and I guess I am waiting for an O2 Sensor problem with this darn car. I will never get another Nossan again! By the way, is it easy to replace the O2 sensor?
  • stickguystickguy Member Posts: 50,441
    O2s can aren't inherently difficult to replace (not much different than a spark plug). The trick sometimes is finding them, and needing to have the light reset.

    I think the coils must be easy to replace, since they pretty much plug onto the tops of the spark plugs. They are just wicked expensive.

    I can't believe they make that much of a difference over an old fashioned style coil 9at least not enough to make up for the replacement cost if they only last 50K or so).

    2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.

  • kp40mkp40m Member Posts: 19
    Sorry for not posting this sooner.

    Went into the dealer for the 15,000 mile check-up and asked them to check out the dash creak, rear window noise and sunroof noise. "Amazingly" they could not reproduce any of the noise problems. I do a lot of highway driving and the wind noises are noticable at 65+ (which the dealer did not want to reproduce as the highway speed limit near the dealer is 55). Overall, this dealer does not seem interested in resolving "noises" so there is no resolution at this time. He claimed they would have to take the dash apart to fix the rattle (once they verify it), which would take 2 days and in my opinion may make things worse than they are. I may try wedging something behind the square plastic housing aroung the clock as that is where the noise (quite obvious when you go over a bump in cold weather) is coming from.
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