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Comments
DD
I have following queries for 05 Maxima SL model. I am new to world of vehicles. So few of my questions might be very basic.
1) When I start my car, engine RPM goes to 2500. I heard from somebody that I shall wait till the RPM of engine reduces to 1000 before I drive the car. Is it true? Is it applicable for old cars only?
2) When I start the car and switch on Steering or Heated Seats, does it affect car Battery? Due to such usage will it reduce the battery life?
3) Servicing... what happens during 1st, 2nd servicing normally? What shall I check or ask the mechanic to check?
4) Can I use Synthetic oil in my 05 Maxima? Is it useful?
5) Can I set average (miles/galon) using the display on the dashboard?
thanks in advance for the help
Bondey
I assumed before that the doors will auto lock after certain period of time. The manual said something about the autolock and I found later that was applied to the situation when you unlock the door by remote but do not open the door since, the door will autolock within, say, 1 minute. But if you simply close the door after exiting the car and do not press the keyfob, then the car won't autolock (just like what happened to me last night). I DO want the car to be able to autolock by itself and I don't know whether Maxima can have such function as I know quite some other cars have it. I cannot find it out from manual and some people in the forum said yes about this autolocking.
Does someone has similiar experience or could someone tell me some info about this?
Thanks,
Being that it doesnt look like Ill be able to buy a dash kit, wire harness and all the other nameless requirements, as well as someone to install it ( my brother wont apparently fool with a Bose system, I have been toying with the issue of going to a junk yard and finding another one. I cant bear to listen to the radio much longer and I know my brother can installcan at least install a factory one. What do you guys tthin?.
have following queries for 05 Maxima SL model. I am new to world of vehicles. So few of my questions might be very basic.
1) When I start my car, engine RPM goes to 2500. I heard from somebody that I shall wait till the RPM of engine reduces to 1000 before I drive the car. Is it true? Is it applicable for old cars only?
* Drive it immediately, but don't drive "hard" until the powertrain has warmed up for best practice to follow. Warming up a car wastes fuel and driving the car warms it up faster. Old cars needed warming to be able to run right.
2) When I start the car and switch on Steering or Heated Seats, does it affect car Battery? Due to such usage will it reduce the battery life?
*No, enjoy. The car generates the power these accessories need...unless you making a series of very short cold weather trips the battery will not be affected at all.
3) Servicing... what happens during 1st, 2nd servicing normally? What shall I check or ask the mechanic to check?
*look at your owners manual
4) Can I use Synthetic oil in my 05 Maxima? Is it useful?
* synthetic oil is better, if you want to use a better oil and be able to extend oil change intervals. depends if you are leasing....
5) Can I set average (miles/galon) using the display on the dashboard?
* can't help you there see owner manual
Dirk
Seeya
I have a 97 maxima. The engine light will come on once in a while. There are always two codes: one for multiple cylinder misfire and another one for the knock sensor. When this happens the car will usually hesitate and sometimes stall. When I first bought the car new, the dealer couldn't find anything. Anyway, the problem got worst that in reverse the car will want to stall. Actually, now, when the car is cold (higher rpm), if I put it in reverse, it will stall right away. I found out that there was a service bulletin for the codes and the bucking/hesitation. The fix is either one or more ignition coils or a wire in the harness. Well, the other day it came to me to wiggle the wiring harness under the hood coming from inside the vehicle to the engine. I thought that the rocking of the engine (backing up when cold and taking off at a stop or a light) could be affecting a loose wire somewhere. As the engine was running, every time I'd wiggle the wiring harness, the car would stall. I figure I had found the problem from all these years.
I decided to strip the wiring harness and find the one wire that was at fault. This one thick gray wire, when wiggled or pulled would cause the engine to stall. I opened the wire to see if I could find something broken, kinked or loose. Inside this wire were two smaller wires wrapped around a shield of tin stripped wires. I had to undo this shield of wires in order to see if there was anything broken in there. Well, I didn't find anything wrong and now the car won't start even when wiggling the wires (I smell fuel from the exhaust though). Someone told me that by undoing the protective shield of stripped wires that could send wrong signals to the ECU. Anyone has any ideas or has ever run into this problem?
Thanks,
Carsch
I just need to know what the wires for the Crankshaft sensor (POS - the one by the flywheel) are, where they go to and their respective values. I have this Haynes manual but it's not giving me exactly what I see in my car. On the manual it shows three wires, but on the sensor connector there are four wires. Also, the book tells me the white wire should have 5 volts when the key is on, and the black wire should be grounded ... that's not what I'm getting. On the contrary, there is this extra wire, a gray wire, which is grounded at all times. Thanks!
Other than the O2 sensors repair, I did not see a "money drain" in my 96 Maxima for the past 115K miles. Neither does the above mechanic who has 200K on his Maxima. It gave me 26 MPG on highway and about 20 MPG city drive.
I'm happy if Maxima only cause me $ in o@ sensor for "major"repairs. I look forward to getting another 85K miles on my 96 Maxima before I give up on it.
Is it adviceable to shop around instead of going to the dealers if I can have the insurance company write the estimation check? Or I just let the dealer fix it and let the insurance company to deal with them for the repair cost?
Now I have to worry about the wheels after I replace it. Can someone give some advice how to improve the situation? Will the wheel lock help? I have to upgrade the alarm. What I have right now is the standard one. Which kind of alarm should I install? The motion sensor? the shock sensor?
Many thanks,
* Over Heating- I fill with coolant at least once a week, most of the coolant leaks out onto the ground very slowly
* Replaced the radiator, not more leaking but still gets hot, goes up into H and then comes back down and goes back up on its own
* Contiune to add coolant to the overflow. Still goes through a great deal of coolant, a gallon a week
* Loud but low pitched squealing from the left side of the engine. When it makes this noise the car would act like it was going to stall in the middle of me driving it. I would have to give it alot of gas to keep going.
* Then smoke begin to come out of the hood of the car
*Then it died in the middle of heavy traffic
* It would even start, no clicking, no sound from the starter or anything. I know it is doing something because the dash lights come on and the radio does too.
What is the Problem?
* Water Pump
* A Belt
* The Timing Chain?
I am thinking it has something to do with the water pump radiator becase it kept leaking and then drinking large amounts of coolant and still over heating.
Did the engine finally just seize up from not getting any coolant? Would this explain the smoke?
Any advice you could give would be appreciated.Thanks! :sick:
Really nice car and I really have not had any major problems with it. However, I have noticed that for the past month or so that when I accelerate, I loose power. Well, today on my way home from work I was just riding alone enjoying my music, when all of sudden I turned to get on the expressway and BAM! I lost all power, so of course I freaked. The car just stopped dead. no warning whatsoever. Fortunately for me there was no one directly behind me or I know I would have been slammed into from the back. Anyway, when the car came to a stop, a few of my dash lights came on, so I turned the ignition off for a few seconds and then try to crank it back up, but the engine did not turn over even though all of my lights in the car were on. After about a minute or two, I turned the ignition again and it cranked right up and I did not not have anymore problems. At this point, I have no idea what the heck happened, but obviously something is wrong. Once I got home, I cranked it again and no problem. I am really afraid to drive it because I don't want to get anywhere and get stranded or cause an accident with it just stopping like that. Of course we all hate the dealership, but can anyone advise me of what my problem maybe. This is my 3rd Maxima, but I'm beginning to think that maybe Nissan's are not as great as they used to be. My first Maxima caught on fire because the fuel injectors were bad. Nissan had a call back on that one. My
2nd Maxima I had to replace the transmission on it twice, so this is my 3rd Maxima and now I am having doubts. I guess you can say I am a Nissan Maxima lover, but I don't know anymore. Anyway, I think I will try to drive it to Auto Zone and pray they can diagnose it for me. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
aikido2
C
I'll check those two items and let you know what happens.
Thanks again
aikido2
Would like to know if anyone had a similar experience and the advise.Recently my Maxima 2002 had a front bearing failure .this i think is very unusual as i havent heard a similar thing from anyone till now.The car has put up 90000 miles.In the past i had to get the rotor /brake job done for 6 times due to warping and i have an inkling that this might have contibute do the damage to the bearings due to the abnormal vibrations
Any comments ,thanks in advance
sobhanv
Problem:
2 wks later it is dying and stalling and we did the code thing today and got codes p0731 and p0171. We do have an extended warranty...
Can someone advise further ? and is any of this stuff possibly replaceable by us?
Thanks,
Shari
If knock sensor is faulty it won't bring the ‘check engine light’ on. However it will store a code if bad. You can have the people at AutoZone check if any codes are stored. Oh, also, make sure you are using good grade fuel.
Code P0171: fuel injection system lean (right bank)
There could be a problem with the Mass air flow sensor. Since the MAFS is by the air filter and you just replaced the filter, make sure the wiring and the connector for the MAFS is connected and ok. And, hopefully you didn't have to remove the MAFS, if you did make sure the clamps are tight.
You could have a vacuum leak somewhere.... listen for hissing noises in the engine compartment.
You could have an exhaust leak. Listen for exhaust leaks before or by the 02 sensor.
You could have a bad injector seal.
You could have incorrect fuel pressure (fuel pump)
Anyone have water pump replacement experience?
I acutally see a light at the end of the tunnel.
I have not replaced one on my Max, but in my past cars you basically disconnect the belt, drain coolant from the radiator, access the pump and remove it, reinstall. But being an import there are probably a lot of items to remove to get to the pump. Suggest a Haynes or Nissan manual, or a good shop.
Good luck and let us know how it goes.
We have an '01 Maxima GLE that is on it's 3rd set of brakes and rotors in 45K. I am disheartened to hear that you've had 6 sets. Been told rotors should last at least 50k. How much to fix your current problem? Only asking because we'll probably have it in the future....
Thanks for posting!
QGirl
I have just replaced my knock sensor, 1 spark plug boot (there was a misfire), water pump, oil pressure switch, increased the rpm's on the idle, and ran a computer diagnostic, which previously showed O2 sensor problems, but as of yesterday showed all clear after the knock sensor was replaced.
I am at a loss as to what to do :confuse: , and financially this is becoming a burden.
Oh, and my gas consumption is odd I get a full tank in 230 miles or so, shouldn't it be more?
I will greatly appreciate any help anyone can offer, many thanx in advance
I turned the car off, then restarted it again with the severe vibration still happening, but to a lesser degree. By the time I popped the hood and got out to look at belts, etc., the car was starting to calm back down. Turned it off again and it restarted a third time without any significant shaking. I drove my daughter to school and I came into work with no trace of anything wrong while on the road.
What in the world could possibly cause this? A very similar situation happened about 2.5 years ago and after leaving it for two nights with my mechanic, he could find nothing wrong with it. And of course, it started right up; no problem.
Any ideas? Thx!
I bought a 2000 maxima with 45K on it last month.
rear o2 sensor reprogramming: $80
idle control valve: $450
towing: $60
replace rear o2 sensor: $250
check a/c: $80
Now I find out these cars have a lot of MAF problems and ignition coil problems, so I've got a thousand more in repairs to look forward to.
Plus the a/c is substandard for the 100 degree days we get around here. I'm already looking, should've stuck with toyota.