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Comments
'17 Chevy Volt Premiere
Speaking of the neutral switch, those go bad if you spill coke in the shifter, but I don't have an opinion on why it would work in N and not in P.
A used Jetta is probably going to be much less reliable than the same year/mileage Altima. What year is it, by the way?
Also, it's always a good idea to take a used car to a mechanic you trust, so that he can inspect it for a nominal fee.
I have some friends that are mechanics but they are not available at the moment I am looking at the cars for sale...I call them thought and try to explain the problem that the car may have....it's better to have them there at the location....but you have to catch them on their time if you know what I mean....
What kind of a car fo you have?
I have a 2000 Maxima with only 43K miles on it.
The Service Engine Soon (SES) light has come on and off with code 420 since Sept 2004.
My non-dealer mechanic had replace O2 sensor and Mass air flow, but none seems to fix the problem. I had spent about $300 on this problem already.
My questions are:
1. What problem could this be?
2. Should I sent to dealer instead to fix the problem?
3. Should I keep driving it?
Your advice is much appreciated since I read a lot of similar problems.
I drive a 1997 Maxima SE with 195k miles. The only major thing that ever broke (other than the usual wear and tear items) is the starter. If you can find a 97-99 Maxima in good condition with decent mileage, it should last you a long time.
I don't know how to remove the front headlight lens cover to remove the pieces of the broken bulb and I can't get to it from inside the engine compartment. Any suggestions?
I have a 2002 maxima GLE with 53K miles on it. Yesterday, while waiting on a red signel, the car suddenly died up on me. I mean, the engine was on but it wouldn't move forward (or backward) when i hit the gas. After a few attempts to stop & re-start (when it still failed to move forward), it finally didn't even start.
The dealer said he'll have to replace the alternator.
Now, my maxima was working fine until this point (i did have couple of recalls though). Is this alternator problem something that happens to all cars ? Did anyone face this before ?
The dealer said this happens to all cars ? If so, is alternator replacement part of a car's maintenance ?
thanks,
sekhar.
My '02 Maxima with 32,500 miles has the check engine light on. I took it to Advanced Auto and the code came up as "EVAP emission control". They suggested replacing the gas cap since it had been at least a week since I gotten gas. (so I don't think it was that the cap wasn't replaced tightly) Has anyone replaced the cap and still had the light remain on?
How about cutting the plastic string so it doesn't get tangled around the gas cap?
I have 2000 maxima with 32,000 miles on it and i had a problem with my service engine soon light...it would come on and off and also flash when i accelerated.... i took it to the dealer and paid $600 to replace the ignition coils ( if that is your problem, get it done elsewhere for cheaper!!) it fixed the problem, hope it helps
I remember test driving both the GLE and GXE models and noting the softer suspensions of each. I have an SE and would like the softer ride of the GLE and/or GXE. Does anyone know any exact specifics regarding the differences?
Anyone know?
I have exactly the same problem as yours. a 96 maxima and the fan works only on high. I was wondering if your problem is solved and would appreciate any help that you can provide
Thanks very much
I bought a 1995 Nissan Maxima, and I see the intermittent problem with Windows - sometimes they come down by about couple of inches on their own. Can this be fixed?
Thanks
Thanks!
FYI.... the cars that I have had in the past, mostly GM and even my '05 Maxima start when they are in Neutral. My understanding is that this is a safety feature.... i.e. if your car stalls (engine dies) on a freeway, you can simply put it in Neutral and restart the car (hopefully) and then put it back in drive and continue on.
If you could only start the car in Park, then you would have to come to a complete stop in the middle of the freeway, put it in Park, restart the car, and then place back in Drive. And to answer a question in the back of your mind - no, you can't put a car in Park while driving down the highway at 70.... it will do serious damage to the transmission.
I find this very interesting that this question was asked.... I feel somewhat old because of it - since I remember the junk we had for cars in the 70's and 80's that frequently stalled for no reason whatsoever (And you rarely thought much about it). Now, if your car stalls, it is usually once in a blue moon and reason for concern.
Hope this helps the youngsters out there!!!
Jerry
Thanks
Tom.
Also, you may want to consider cracking open the bleeder screws, while you are pushing the pistons back in, to let out the dirty brake fluid, rather than pushing it up the system. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT LET AIR IN.
Search the web - there are detailed instuctions to be found.
Also, I'm personally against cutting the rotors, unless they are warped. Even then, you will need new ones before you know it.
Getting a new factory pads and hardware kit is a very good idea, just don't get the 'value' pads, get the more expensive ones ($55-$65).
Every morning at the first stoplight, the idle speed of my car will jump between 600 and 1500, back and forth. I have to put the car into "Park" and turn the AC off, in order to calm the car down before the green light. After that I don't have problems for the rest of the day. In the past, the check engine light would come on if I didn't calm the car down immediately by putting it into "Park."
What is going on? Does the car need to be warmed up first? The dealer was not able to repeat or find any problems, since this only happens most of the time in the mornings. I guess I will just live with it since this is an old car? --James
Does anyone have any general ideas as to the cause? Thx!
Good luck!
The vibrations start when I accelerate to over 100 kmph/60mp. The steering wheel vibrates and the shimmy can be felt throughout the car. The vibrations become again impressive as I decelerate back down to 90 kmph or so.....no brakes applied (i.e. it is not a brake related issue).
I was told that this was a wheel balancing issue. I have had the wheels balanced many times throughout the history of the car...the first one was within Month 1 of purchase and many times since. Interestingly enough this issue goes away when I switch to winter tires. Leads me to believe this is a tire issue.
I have the full history of the 7 or 8 times this vehicle's been wheel balanced ...i.e. early indications to any 'expert' that this was not a balancing issue. If it is a tire related issue ...I am now being told that I likely have no recourse because tires are not covered under warranty...and any "participation" by Nissan would be purely "goodwill"....especially now since the car has 60k KM /37miles What a load...since the problem was documented to be from Month 1. Why didn't the experts pick up on this problem at that time and recommend a tire switch? Why should I have had to push the issue? Oh well....
Let's see where this goes... I am p'd off enough to pursue this to court if I have to ...but I'll wait to see of Nissan Canada comes back with.
OEM tires must be the issue because the shimmying stops when I switch to my winter tires. I have Bridgestone tires that came with the car....the treads etc are great and no reason to switch them except for this problem. Nissan has agreed to have the car tested on special tire diagnostic equipment and will "participate" in tire replacement if the diagnosis says that this is the issue. I have no idea what 'participate' means. We'll see.
I would greatly appreciate if anyone can point the possible reasons for my Remote Key, Automatic Door Locks and Interior Lighting suddenly stopped working...Is it something electrical or battery related ???
Make/Model: Nissan/Maxima GLE (2000)
Thanks,
Dbacks
Have you found a solution yet to your problem???