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Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • suydamsuydam Member Posts: 4,676
    Myself, I would not get the extended warranty. Maximas don't have the kinds of problems Jeeps do as a rule (check out the owner satisfaction bars at the top of this page; CR also gives Maxima tops in reliability). Remember, under "Problems and Solutions" you're seeing the people who have problems; they are not necessarily representative of all Maxima owners. A few Maximas have had electrical issues, just like a few cars of other makes, but CR surveys do not report extensive problems. I have a 2001 GLE with 50,000 miles that has been completely trouble-free. It still has the orginal rotors and brakes. In fact, orginal everything! If your rotors are warped I would take it to a Nissan dealer and have them fix them. If it's done right you'll probably have a very long life with the new ones. If it's just a surface fix, you'll continue to have problems. Ditto the alignment problem. If your dealer insists there's no problem he can't possibly address it.
    '14 Buick Encore Convenience
    '17 Chevy Volt Premiere
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    This car does not have a timing belt, it has a timing chain. What year is it? When I was shopping for a used Altima for my mother-in-law, I ran into TWO cars that had their timing chaings replaced. I think that this is unusual, since normally chains last the life of the engine, but I don't know if this engine is prone to timing chain problems (I highly doubt it). Can you describe the noise?
  • pat517pat517 Member Posts: 3
    The noise sounded like that of a Honda Civic like a racecar...as I gave it more gas it would get louder....maybe the exhaust is leaking or the muffler....a friend told. It also started on Neutral instead of Park....the owner said it is a safety feature. That sound pretty strange to me...I spoke to a friend of mine and he told me that they must of worked on the transmission when putting it back together the switch to start the car switch over to neutral instead of Park......I am deciding otherwise now.....so I think I am going to a dealer for a used car instead for a Nissa Altima or a Jetta...do you have any suggestions...which is better? Thanks....Pat
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    The noise is probably the exhaust - likely to be rusted. Depending on where the hole is, could be expensive to repair. Try to get the seller to fix it, maybe?

    Speaking of the neutral switch, those go bad if you spill coke in the shifter, but I don't have an opinion on why it would work in N and not in P.

    A used Jetta is probably going to be much less reliable than the same year/mileage Altima. What year is it, by the way?

    Also, it's always a good idea to take a used car to a mechanic you trust, so that he can inspect it for a nominal fee.
  • pat517pat517 Member Posts: 3
    The Altima is a 2000 at 84000K....I wanted to either get a JETTA 2002 at a dealer or a Altima with a newer body....My Brand new Toyota Camry SE 2005 (didn't even made 10,000 on it) was stolen 2x this May... :cry: so I wanted to try something different and realiable like Camry's are but I don't have any experience in on the history of other cars....while I was surfing on this site....I saw that the new 2005 Altima was giving people issues with a noise and vibration while driving for long periods of time even on smooth roads..... I want a used car with a newer model....I saw a JETTA 1999 and I loved it but it had a bad paint job from a repair side panel.....

    I have some friends that are mechanics but they are not available at the moment I am looking at the cars for sale...I call them thought and try to explain the problem that the car may have....it's better to have them there at the location....but you have to catch them on their time if you know what I mean....

    What kind of a car fo you have?
  • klinklin Member Posts: 54
    Hello,

    I have a 2000 Maxima with only 43K miles on it.

    The Service Engine Soon (SES) light has come on and off with code 420 since Sept 2004.
    My non-dealer mechanic had replace O2 sensor and Mass air flow, but none seems to fix the problem. I had spent about $300 on this problem already.

    My questions are:
    1. What problem could this be?
    2. Should I sent to dealer instead to fix the problem?
    3. Should I keep driving it?

    Your advice is much appreciated since I read a lot of similar problems.
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    2000 was, I believe, the last year of the 2nd generation Altima, so they should be as reliable as it gets.

    I drive a 1997 Maxima SE with 195k miles. The only major thing that ever broke (other than the usual wear and tear items) is the starter. If you can find a 97-99 Maxima in good condition with decent mileage, it should last you a long time.
  • maxnumber2maxnumber2 Member Posts: 1
    I replaced my front headlight bulb in my '99 maxima no problem, but couldn't get out the parts of the old bulb that blew out and shattered, so now I have pieces of broken bulb in the front lens cover.
    I don't know how to remove the front headlight lens cover to remove the pieces of the broken bulb and I can't get to it from inside the engine compartment. Any suggestions?
  • navoichicknavoichick Member Posts: 1
    have had problem for a while. history: check engine light comes on starts running rough has a miss. Happens off and on always same cylinder. finnally after not clearing up i figured out that the injector was bad, problem went a way for about 3 months. showed up on a different cylinder, same exact symptoms. wondering if i'm chasing wrong problem or is this something i'll be changing out on other cylinders because of age mileage....1994/90,000mi.
  • shakesshakes Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I have a 2002 maxima GLE with 53K miles on it. Yesterday, while waiting on a red signel, the car suddenly died up on me. I mean, the engine was on but it wouldn't move forward (or backward) when i hit the gas. After a few attempts to stop & re-start (when it still failed to move forward), it finally didn't even start.
    The dealer said he'll have to replace the alternator.
    Now, my maxima was working fine until this point (i did have couple of recalls though). Is this alternator problem something that happens to all cars ? Did anyone face this before ?
    The dealer said this happens to all cars ? If so, is alternator replacement part of a car's maintenance ?

    thanks,
    sekhar.
  • murrdogg32murrdogg32 Member Posts: 9
    IM having a problem w/ my check engine light coming on . Coder says # 1& 2 fuel bank to rich so i had all 02 sensors changed 60 miles later light came back on codes reading the same problem ! Any ideas out there thanks :mad: :cry:
  • phyllisdphyllisd Member Posts: 3
    Are 2002 Maxima's known for the gas cap wearing out?
    My '02 Maxima with 32,500 miles has the check engine light on. I took it to Advanced Auto and the code came up as "EVAP emission control". They suggested replacing the gas cap since it had been at least a week since I gotten gas. (so I don't think it was that the cap wasn't replaced tightly) Has anyone replaced the cap and still had the light remain on?
    How about cutting the plastic string so it doesn't get tangled around the gas cap?
  • leonivleoniv Member Posts: 120
    I would recommend Brembo blank rotors as replacement rotors from tirerack. I spent about $100 for a set of rotors and about $16 for nissan pads from their parts store and haven't had warped rotors since. My 01 OEM rotors warped at about 20k miles. 30k miles after the new pads/rotors, she still stops as smooth as ever. I wouldn't recommend Nissan OEM rotors. They're just going to put the same sorry OEM rotors on your Maxima, then 6 months later you'll be right back where you are now. Even if you don't get the Brembo's, do yourself a favor and skip the Nissan rotors.
  • mems4mems4 Member Posts: 2
    You might want to try taking it to the dealer to have the ECM reprogrammed. I am having trouble with my SES light for O2 sensors and from previous posts I learned that TSB NTB00-070a will cover the reprogramming free of charge. I hope this helps you. I am still getting code P0141 which is near impossible to get any information on. The dealer wants to diagnosis the wiring harness but I am reluctant to continuing to spend hundreds of dollars on diagnostics.
  • murrdogg32murrdogg32 Member Posts: 9
    after replacing 02 sen do you have to have computer re programed at dealer?
  • kzakkzak Member Posts: 13
    Hi hopes this helps:
    I have 2000 maxima with 32,000 miles on it and i had a problem with my service engine soon light...it would come on and off and also flash when i accelerated.... i took it to the dealer and paid $600 to replace the ignition coils ( if that is your problem, get it done elsewhere for cheaper!!) it fixed the problem, hope it helps
  • gtwgtw Member Posts: 46
    My wife stalled out in traffic yesterday in her 04 SL. I tried jumping the car , but it didn't get far after starting. Took battery to AutoZone and charged it. Today she went to dealer and found out the alternator is bad. 18K miles and 22 months old. This is really sad. On a positive note, they are replacing it under warranty.
  • jg28jg28 Member Posts: 257
    What exactly and yes I mean exactly (part numbers, part specifications etc) are the differences in the suspensions between the SE and GLE 2002 Maxima models? I know the SE suspension is supposedly stiffer and all the reviews online mention the SE having a stiffer suspension but all the struts, shocks and springs have the same part number associated with them and every nissan dealership contacted says the suspensions are the same. How can this be?

    I remember test driving both the GLE and GXE models and noting the softer suspensions of each. I have an SE and would like the softer ride of the GLE and/or GXE. Does anyone know any exact specifics regarding the differences?

    Anyone know?
  • jm1206jm1206 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1999 Nissan Maxima SE Limited, i have recently been having problems just like this. First, at stop light or when running idle, it sort of "chugs" a little bit and does seem like its firing on all cyclinders. Then I went to go accelerate onto the freeway, it chugged alot and then the 'service engine soon' light came on. I put the car away over night and then in the morning the check engine light did not come on again. But it still does chug a little bit. What should I do you think? Get a tune up or get a diagnostic test?
  • jm1206jm1206 Member Posts: 2
    I have the same problem on my 99 Maxima SE Limited....do you know how much that all cost you?
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    Hi, does anyone know where i can find the cabin filter for my 96 nissan maxima? Thanks for the help.
  • nissanfan5nissanfan5 Member Posts: 1
    Hi Mattymc311
    I have exactly the same problem as yours. a 96 maxima and the fan works only on high. I was wondering if your problem is solved and would appreciate any help that you can provide
    Thanks very much
  • mirthmirth Member Posts: 1,212
    I have an '02 Max and I'm going to be replacing the battery myself this weekend. Does anyone know if there's going to be any issues with the security system locking me out if I just disconnect the old battery and stick in a new one?
  • maxima_95maxima_95 Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I bought a 1995 Nissan Maxima, and I see the intermittent problem with Windows - sometimes they come down by about couple of inches on their own. Can this be fixed?

    Thanks
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    I had the same problem, i had to replace 2 O2 sensors and a knock sensor which cost me about $900. After getting all my sensors replaced, my car was check engine light free but until just 1 hr when after turning on the car again, the engine light lit on. Took it back to the dealership that same day and they told me that i needed a Idle Air Control valve costing about $180. They scan the car through a computer and they told me something about my IAC valve was bad so in order to get rid of the CHECK ENGINE LIGHT, i needed to replace it. They said that they could reset the check engine light, but they said that since my IAC valve was bad, resetting the light wouldnt help because it would just be a matter of time before the light comes on again (the IAC valve is for efficient air pressure going to the engine, etc. i didnt really follow the tech.) i had to replace it. So far, the engine light is not on. They also told me that there's about 140 ways for the engine light to come on and changing spark plugs is one of them. Hope this help some and good luck.
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    Hi, hopefully someone here nice can help me with this problem on my 96 Maxima. There's light in the engine coolant temperature gauge and part of the tachometer but there's no light shown in my speedometer, odometer, or the fuel gauge at all... I was driving at home tonight and turned on my headlights just to see that i can't READ how fast im going (i was driving in a fun filled cop stakeout/neighborhood area!!) Can someone tell me how can i change the bulb in these things or how difficult the task is? I appreciate the help alot.
  • kgraffkgraff Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Maxima SE. The SES light keeps coming on. I brought it to my non-dealer mechanic and he diagnosed a "lean left bank" citing no particular cylinder cylinder. The plugs needed changing anyway, so he did that and two of them looked much newer than the other four. He keeps saying it sounds like there's a vacuum leak, but when he removed the upper intake plenum, everything checked out. After 5 or 6 resets of the light he wants to keep searching. He's been gracious and hasn't charged anything, but it's getting frustrating. Does anyone have any idea what the actual problem is? I'd appreciate the help. Thank you.
  • segedusegedu Member Posts: 1
    Hi, while driving this morning the radio starts to loose power and shuts off, I have noticed the Battery and Brake warning light come on last night, and was still on this morning checked the brake fluid level and that was fine. On parking the car I rev the engine, it sounds fine but I notice that there seems to be loss of electrical power in the whole car because the windows wind up really slow. I shut the engine off, and try to re-start the car, but it just goes flat with a rattling sound, all the lights come on in the dash so I don't think its a weak battery... now am going to go back and see if it will start again after cooling for a while if not I have to get the car towed.... Any advice would be appreciated on what the possible problems could be. I am also going to check the fuses (any particular fuse to check?)

    Thanks!
  • mastjmastj Member Posts: 14
    Pat:

    FYI.... the cars that I have had in the past, mostly GM and even my '05 Maxima start when they are in Neutral. My understanding is that this is a safety feature.... i.e. if your car stalls (engine dies) on a freeway, you can simply put it in Neutral and restart the car (hopefully) and then put it back in drive and continue on.

    If you could only start the car in Park, then you would have to come to a complete stop in the middle of the freeway, put it in Park, restart the car, and then place back in Drive. And to answer a question in the back of your mind - no, you can't put a car in Park while driving down the highway at 70.... it will do serious damage to the transmission.

    I find this very interesting that this question was asked.... I feel somewhat old because of it - since I remember the junk we had for cars in the 70's and 80's that frequently stalled for no reason whatsoever (And you rarely thought much about it). Now, if your car stalls, it is usually once in a blue moon and reason for concern.

    Hope this helps the youngsters out there!!!

    Jerry
  • dahuberdahuber Member Posts: 53
    If it's the same as a 2001 Maxima, look behind the glove box under the dash.
  • gtownguygtownguy Member Posts: 73
    Hi guys, I was wondering if anyone new how to get the rotors off both front and back, (any tips?) and if anyone knows what special tools I may need. Do I need a metric socket allen wrench set for the calipers? Any other tips, i was going to get the factory pads and hardware kits and turn my rotors, (not bad looking).
    Thanks
    Tom.
  • just_philjust_phil Member Posts: 86
    Remove the calipers (14mm socket), remove the torque members (17mm or 19mm - I don't remember). The rotors are probably frozen to the hubs, there are two holes in each rotor. Find two matching bolts (the holes in the rear rotors are smaller) and screw them in one turn each at a time until the rotor pops off. For the rear brake job you will also need a caliper tool to rotate the piston back into the caliper (the front ones are pushed in by a c-clamp).

    Also, you may want to consider cracking open the bleeder screws, while you are pushing the pistons back in, to let out the dirty brake fluid, rather than pushing it up the system. MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT LET AIR IN.

    Search the web - there are detailed instuctions to be found.

    Also, I'm personally against cutting the rotors, unless they are warped. Even then, you will need new ones before you know it.

    Getting a new factory pads and hardware kit is a very good idea, just don't get the 'value' pads, get the more expensive ones ($55-$65).
  • univmdunivmd Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1997 Maxima with 141,000 miles. Problem: Unstable idle rpm in the mornings.

    Every morning at the first stoplight, the idle speed of my car will jump between 600 and 1500, back and forth. I have to put the car into "Park" and turn the AC off, in order to calm the car down before the green light. After that I don't have problems for the rest of the day. In the past, the check engine light would come on if I didn't calm the car down immediately by putting it into "Park."

    What is going on? Does the car need to be warmed up first? The dealer was not able to repeat or find any problems, since this only happens most of the time in the mornings. I guess I will just live with it since this is an old car? --James
  • dianardianar Member Posts: 3
    Hey! I have about 84K miles on my Max and I am noticing that sometimes the engine will start with a sort of slow or sluggish sound, while other times it sounds like the engine is reving a bit for a few seconds when started [and no, my foot isn't on the gas]. The starter is new [eight months old]. Trying to explain the unpredictable sound of the engine when it starts is tricky at best.

    Does anyone have any general ideas as to the cause? Thx!
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    I have a similar problem also. And, i also bought my new starter. I bought the new starter like about 3 weeks ago and just this week it's sounding funny when starting the car. Everytime i turn the key to crank the engine, a low quick screeching sound follows for about 3 seconds. Hopefully, someone here can help tell us the cause?
  • dianardianar Member Posts: 3
    I read on another Maxima board that the sound you're hearing may be the starter not disengaging fast enough from the flywheel. The only thing that can be done is to remove the starter and grease the inner shaft. It's mostly a nuisance though.

    Good luck! :)
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    Thanks, so far, the noise hasn't come back when starting the car. Don't know why but i'm happy =)
  • highrollerhighroller Member Posts: 351
    Does anyone in here know if i should gap spark plugs or not? Some experts recommend not gapping because it may damage the center electrode or the porcelain insulator. Thanks in advance.
  • gtwgtw Member Posts: 46
    I see where Murano's are being recalled for bad alternators. I wonder if this is the same alternator that was in my wifes 2004 maxima that just crapped out and was replaced?
  • neelsharmaneelsharma Member Posts: 3
    I have an '03 Maxima GLE....bought it in '02. I have had a chronic shimmy problem from Day 1. It is aweful now.

    The vibrations start when I accelerate to over 100 kmph/60mp. The steering wheel vibrates and the shimmy can be felt throughout the car. The vibrations become again impressive as I decelerate back down to 90 kmph or so.....no brakes applied (i.e. it is not a brake related issue).

    I was told that this was a wheel balancing issue. I have had the wheels balanced many times throughout the history of the car...the first one was within Month 1 of purchase and many times since. Interestingly enough this issue goes away when I switch to winter tires. Leads me to believe this is a tire issue.

    I have the full history of the 7 or 8 times this vehicle's been wheel balanced ...i.e. early indications to any 'expert' that this was not a balancing issue. If it is a tire related issue ...I am now being told that I likely have no recourse because tires are not covered under warranty...and any "participation" by Nissan would be purely "goodwill"....especially now since the car has 60k KM /37miles What a load...since the problem was documented to be from Month 1. Why didn't the experts pick up on this problem at that time and recommend a tire switch? Why should I have had to push the issue? Oh well....

    Let's see where this goes... I am p'd off enough to pursue this to court if I have to ...but I'll wait to see of Nissan Canada comes back with.
  • maximasinghmaximasingh Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever get an answer to your question. I'm having a similar problem. I got copies made of my 99 Maxima and the car opens and the engine cranks but as soon as you let go, the engine stops. Works fine with the old key - the original one.
  • kennyg8kennyg8 Member Posts: 225
    I also have an 03 GLE but have not experienced shimmy problems. The OEM tires that come with the car are not good, and if you are still using the OEM tires after 36k miles, perhaps you should change them to see if the problem goes away.
  • neelsharmaneelsharma Member Posts: 3
    hi kennyG - I know another person who has a '03 SE and has steering wheel vibrations...always/most prominent at higher speeds Interesting.....

    OEM tires must be the issue because the shimmying stops when I switch to my winter tires. I have Bridgestone tires that came with the car....the treads etc are great and no reason to switch them except for this problem. Nissan has agreed to have the car tested on special tire diagnostic equipment and will "participate" in tire replacement if the diagnosis says that this is the issue. I have no idea what 'participate' means. We'll see.
  • dbacksdbacks Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    I would greatly appreciate if anyone can point the possible reasons for my Remote Key, Automatic Door Locks and Interior Lighting suddenly stopped working...Is it something electrical or battery related ???

    Make/Model: Nissan/Maxima GLE (2000)

    Thanks,
    Dbacks
  • nashvillenashville Member Posts: 3
    Guess What?! I have a 2005 SL with shimmy in the steering wheel and vibration in the seats. The car is 3 months old and on it's 3rd set of tires, compliments of Nissan. The 3rd set are Michelins and still a problem. They have adjusted the steering wheel and made adjustments to the tires, etc. They have suggested installing a heavier steering wheel complete with a truck horn (just kidding about the horn) and maybe replacing the rear suspension. I understand that the dealership is dealing with 2 other customers with similar complains. The Nissan troubleshooter checked my car out and suggested the heavier steering wheel and maybe replacing suspension. I have to jump through some more hoops, but it sounds like a possible class action lawsuit is possible if everyone bands together. I am told that is how recalls get started. If all else fails, hopefully the "Lemon Law" will have some impact.
  • bchaputbchaput Member Posts: 1
    Had same issue with my 99 Maxima SE. After a few visits to my local (and trust worthy mechanic - that is, NOT the dealership), they determined that the light was being triggered by the "knock" sensor. In my case, simply switching to a higher grade gas (and, yes, more expensive) the problem we resolved.
  • chachkaguychachkaguy Member Posts: 4
    My wife's 2000 SE seems to have the same problem. Originally we had a CEL come on, and Nissan replaced 1st cat conv and O2 sensors. Now no CEL, but hesitation remains. Also seems to be burning oil (no smoke, but needs a quart every 300 or so miles.

    Have you found a solution yet to your problem???
  • chachkaguychachkaguy Member Posts: 4
    PS...her milage (the car's, not my wife's) has dropped from ~ 28/gal down to 20/gal also.....
  • y2zay2za Member Posts: 7
    I seem to have a pretty good amount of wheel spin even with the Traction Control System on - has anyone else noticed this? I guess i should turn it off and see if it makes a difference. BTW has anyone noticed that the description/definition of the TCS is the same as the Vehichle Stability Control system in the owners manual?
  • arcometsarcomets Member Posts: 3
    There is a small black lever in trunk, right where the trunk clicks to close. You have to flip that switch so that it will work.
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