Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

highroller · September 2005

Your speakers may have individual amps that may be blown.

lkg2244 · September 2005

The dashboard meters (fuel, odometer, speedometer, temp) on my 2000
Nissan Maxima 6 cyl work intermittently. The analog gages are either frozen or work fine.
Everyday in the morning all meters work fine.
Sometimes odometer is showing different character, which is not understandable, and sometimes it is completely blank.

When I am driving and the meter is working fine all of a sudden it shows me weird characters and the gauges are frozen. These characters from display will clear after a long time like overnight and then all the meters work perfectly.

When I turned off the car and the display is okay then it takes 2-3 sec to turn off the display. When I start the car next time it will show me either the correct display or nothing on the display.

The odometer display will show the weird characters or clear depending upon the time of fault. It will show the weird characters if the fault came during driving. It will show the clean screen if the fault came during starting.
Engine service light is on and code shows the speed sensor failure.

I recently installed the new battery. This problem was started before I replaced the battery and it is continuing. The mileage is 65,200. Service Engine light is on and code shows the speed sensor failure. All other things work fine.
Your help is much appreciated.

robzilla · September 2005

Months ago I've taken my max to a dealership for a diagnostic (check engine light on & car starting to buck and run rough). After diagnostic, I was told my ignition coils were going bad and that all 6 would have to be replace. They said it will cost about $600+ and I say forget it for now. 9 months later, car starts to run rough again and check engine light appears. Now it won't stay on unless in drive and giving a little gas. The RPM drops from 500 RPM ( when in park) to O RMP and then turns off. AC helps to keep the idling up which keeps the car running a bit longer before turning off. Well I decide I had to replace the ignition coils, all 6. I replace all 6 with new spark plugs. Car still stalls after running. New diagnostic testing says it's now the O2 (Oxygen) Sensor going bad. Okay, O2 sensor is replaced, car still stalls after running for a little. The smell of gas is constant under the hood, air mass filter is checked and fine. You can see black smoke from exhaust and the car seems to be burning or dumping gas twice as much. I have to put in about $20 every 2-3 days because it's seems like it's burning rich.
It's starting to look like it might be the car's CPU now but not 100% sure. Can any one help ? This is costing me an arm and a leg.

hate_payments · September 2005

i have older '93 that was doing something similar and it was the fuel injectors. Just talked to a guy at national injector supplier and he said Nissan keeps them in business. Easy way to check (so i have heard) is take a short piece (2') of garden hose and put it by each injector. you should be able to hear as swoosh sound if they are working right.... good luck

smerf · September 2005

I am experiencing similar symptoms with my 84 datsun/nissan maxima... one day it just wouldnt seem to start.. i could tell the battery had power, but it wasnt even trying to start. By the time help arived i had tried again and it started right up with no hesitation. This continued to be a problem here and there until it just wouldnt respond. My grandfather sprayed some ether based cleaner into the ignition and after a few minutes it started rigth up without hesitation and the problem was gone for about 3 months. Recently it resurfaced and i currently have the screws removed so that i can put my hand behind the ignition switch and jiggle the wireing harness thats connected. It seems that over time the harness has become loose making a bad connection... when i hit the spot it starts right up.

Its becoming increasingly difficult as it seems the whole ignition mechanism is failing. I dont know how to fix it without replacing the mechanism, but ya might check this peice if you have this problem and have not already ruled it out.

klxtony · September 2005

My module was removed before I purchased my 2002 maxima gle. I am trying to locate a used one that will clear the light.I recently tried a 2003 module,but the light would not go out.My nissan mechanic scanned the computer and found no codes.His response was "must not be the correct module" although the parts guy says both cars( vin #s) take the same part #.All junk yards say all 2002-2003 MAXIMAS w/ ft.&side air bags take the same module. I bought this car wrecked and fixed it myself. The air bags were not deployed. PLEASE HELP!! ">

straps · September 2005

Hi there, I am looking into purchasing a 2001 Maxima SE 5spd. with 39K and I am just curious as to how your is holding up and if you suggest this year maxima

sgrd0q · September 2005

I have a 2001 GLE that is approaching 105K miles. Very good car so far. I've had only two failures - an oxygen sensor that was replaced under warranty at 25K miles, and an alternator that was replaced recently just before 100K miles. All work and maintenance is being performed by the dealer.

Of course, I've had wear-and-tear items replaced over the years, such as tires (will purchase a third set soon), brakes, and also some belts were replaced due to cracking about a year ago. Actually, I had some warping issues with the brakes the first 50K miles. The brakes were machined a few times, and eventually at 50K miles all disks and pads were replaced by the dealer with the original parts. Since then  more than 50K miles - I haven't had any brake problems and the pads still show plenty of use left.

All scheduled maintenance was done at the dealer following the 'regular' schedule. This for the most part was regular oil changes (I use Mobil 1 only) and tire rotations, and every 30K miles they'd change the transmission fluid, the coolant, the air filter, the cabin air micro filter and possibly a few other things - this is from memory and I may be missing an item or two. Actually, they changed the brake fluid at some point.

So I am very happy with the car and it still drives like when it was new.

Now here's the question: At the 105K mile service the manual calls for spark plug replacement. I've been hearing people complaining about coil failures, and since these two are related would it make sense to replace those too? Kind of like the advice to replace the water pump when replacing the timing belt (for cars that use timing belts). The reasoning being that the two items are related and the labor is about the same whether you do one or both items. Or I can leave the coils alone, but then again I'd probably have to replace them at some point anyway. Or do you think they may last another 100K miles and 5 years? Or shall I not replace the coils and not even replace the spark plugs as the car is still running very smooth?

Any advice will be appreciated!

1alivia · September 2005

I stumbled across your problem which seems to be the same problem I am experiencing. I have an '03 Maxima GLE. At approx. 15k miles, I took my car in for a routine tire roation (not at the dealership) and they described the same right side brake/caliper problem. They said the pad was completely worn. Of course they asked if I had been driving around with the emergency brake up......
I took the car to the dealer and they confirmed the problem. I received little willingness to have them replaced under warranty by the dealership. After a day of calling everyone I could get a Nissan the dealer agreed to replace the rear caliper and pads. They offered not explanation as to how this happened and did not list the repair as a warranty issue. They noted "customer satisfaction" as the reason for the repair. Now here I am at 46k miles and just replaced the rear pads again. There is obviously a problem but no one seems to know the answer......

peewee2 · September 2005

My 97 Maxima is dying. It started about 3 years ago when I was stationed in Italy. I started losing power and my check engine light would flash everytime I accelerated or went up a hill. I took it to a number of mechanics in the area and they could not fix the problem. I then moved to Guam where they told me to replace my engine. I did and my car ran but would not restart unless it was cool. It ran smooth with a little hesitation when accelerating and the check engine light remained on. The mechanics told me that was fine. I then moved back to the US where they are now telling me my ECM is bad. They ran 7 diagnostics on it and came up with 7 different problems. I ran the ECM diagnostics and got code 55 which means no fault(Chiltons). Do I need to replace my ECM or is there a bigger problem that everyone is missing.

clanker · September 2005

My advice - replace spark plugs with the Nissan OEM platinum plugs from NGK (you can get these from the dealer) and buy a set of coils else where ( the dealer will want 2X the cost of what you can buy them for online). It's up to you whether you pay for the parts now (I just did this, it cost approx $80 for the plugs, $400 for coils, 1 hour labor) because we had 2 bad coils at 130K miles ('95 Maxima GLE). Even though you have a 2001, the engine is pretty similar to mine. If you can bare to part with the extra $400, it is worth it, because when the coils go bad, it starts in a subtle way, then just gets worse and worse, with performance slowly slipping away. With the new plugs and coils, my Max runs like it did when we first got it. I would recomend to do both items, you'll be good for 60K for the plugs, and perhaps 100K - 150K with the coils !

cvwillia · September 2005

I have a 96 maxima with about 187K on it. While driving home my check engine light came on. The local auto parts store read the code and it came back with DTC PO325 Knock Sensor 1 and P0725 Engine Speed Sensor.. I had the check light reset and the light came back on after driving about 15 miles. The car runs fine without any problems.. Any help??

clanker · September 2005

The bad knock sensor does not activate the CEL, so perhaps it's the speed sensor? knock sensors are a weak point on our cars, I need to get mine changed on my '95, and am trying to find someone to do it with the least amount of labor possible. you can find a new sensor for $99 on ebay, or pay $160 at the dealer.

claudiawood · September 2005

I've had my car for about 2 years now and a few months ago I noticed the "Check Engine Light Soon" notification appeared on my car. I read the owner's manual and was advised to first try and make sure the gas cap was on tight. After making sure it was tight, after a couple of trips, the light will come on but will repeatedly come on and I will have to tighten the gas cap...but recently, I noticed that I changed the gas I was using in my car to the premium and the light came off for a few weeks but just a couple of days later the light came back on. I'm using the same premium gas. What do you think it could be at this point? Should I replace my gas cap? Almost 80,000 miles. No tune-up in a while...can someone PLEASE help me?

testeed · September 2005

My 2000 Maxima with 110k miles and automatic transmission has recently, on three separate occasions, slipped out of gear while traveling down the highway. The only common link seems to be that the problem occurred each time after about an hour of sustained high-speed (70-75mph) interstate travel. Upon exiting the interstate and driving at a slower speed, the transmission would shift into neutral, even though the selector was still in drive. Tried down-shifting through all gears and switching off the overdrive, but nothing helped. The only way I could resolve the problem was to coast to a stop, switch off the car for a minute or two, then restart. The transmission would then shift into drive and continue with no further problem. I had the transmission flushed and refilled after the first occurrance, but the issue has recurred twice since. Luckily, I have been in a position to coast safely to a stop, out of harm's way. I may not be so lucky next time. Any ideas?

highroller · September 2005

Could be the gas cap, try replacing it first to make sure that you eliminated that possibility off your list. There's a couple hundreds of reasons for why the engine light would come on, it is best to take the car in to a certified auto shop for a diagnostic test to see what the problem is.

klin · September 2005

I just want to express my thanks to all those with helpful tips on my nagging 2000 Maxima SES (Check Engine Light) error code 420 problem

After wasting a few hundreds $ on my local mechanic, I decided to try my local dealer instead. The decision is a right move and the problem was fixed with a ECU re-program. The entire repair is free and covered under a 7-year warranty. My car even got a free car wash :>

So if you have a SES check engine light problem, try the dealer first since it may be covered with warranty.

beanctr · September 2005

Claudiawood,
Your situation sounds exactly like the issue I was having and I am sorry to say it didn't have a happy monetary ending. I too have a 02 Maxima with 78,000 miles on it. About three weeks ago the Service Engine Soon Light came on; however, the car was running fine. The light went off once during this time frame and then came back on (car continued to run fine). Finally I took it into the dealership yesterday and they diagnosed it as the 02 sensor (for emissions). The car has 4 of them and I had to have 2 of them replaced. Total bill was $625 (ouch!). So I am willing to bet that your situation involves the 02 sensor. The dealer didn't seem to think that I would harm the vehicle if I waited to replace the sensor; however, since I will need to smog the vehicle soon, I went ahead and got them replaced. This is the only repair I have had done to the vehicle other than normal routine maintenance. It has been very reliable. Good luck with your vehicle.

jerman66 · October 2005

WOW... seems to be an all year Nissan Maxima thing. Have about 70k miles on my 2001 and the same thing happend. Solid light dealer told me to check gas cap, but I always give the gas cap 3 clicks as the salesman so nicely told me years ago as he said if the gas cap is not tight I'd have to bring it in and pay $40 to clear the cold. The dealer said my problem shouldn't be bad as the light was solid, a BLINKING light is an emmision problem. Well it came on and off and when on I took it to the dealer and it was a simple upgrade on the computer console and the problem went away... NOW I have the blinking airbag light :surprise: and and took that to the dealer and the airbag has (blah blah blah) bad and has to be replaced, thank heavens I have the extended warrenty that someone told me not to buy cause the issue costs $1500.

drmaxima · October 2005

Hey everyone, first time poster on this site, seems to be a very valuable resource!

I've got a 2001 SE, and I double-cranked the car (turned the key while the car was still starting) and I heard a bit of a pop.

After saying a couple of prayers, I started again, and it ran beautifully.

However, the brake and battery light were on for about 5 mins, and turned off themselves.

So pretty regularly when I start the car, I have the same problem. All of my electrical components work slowly (wipers, windows, etc). However, a few mins into driving, the brake and battery light turn off and everything works perfectly.

I took it to the dealer to get checked out, and it passed all of their "electrical tests"

What do I do? Wait until the alternator dies completely? that *is* what those two lights represent, correct?

Any help would be greatly appreciated

thanks guys and gals

sgrd0q · October 2005

Replace your alternator ASAP.

lkg2244 · October 2005

I get hesitation and engine light, Slip. TCS light. After reading codes it gives me P0301 and P1320. P0301 is cylinder #1 misfire and P1320 is ignition signal primary circuit fault. I recently replaced all the spark plugs with new Bosch platinum design at 65000 miles. What else is creating these fault codes may be the coil #1? What is P1320 means?
Please help.
Thanks

luvmymaxie · October 2005

I purchased my 04 Maxima SE when they first came out and since then I had to have my tires rotated and balanced twice. I had the shimmy of the steering wheel also. I only have 14,800 miles on it.....stay at home Mom. Travel vehicle is our F-250 diesel....Well, I finally got tired of the steering wheel shimming when I slowed down and took it in to have the brakes looked at. Well, Nissan had to machine the two front brake rotors because they were warped. I ran into another lady who has 04 SL at my son's school and she said she has had to have her brake rotors replaced twice? Anyone else? I hope this isn't going to be an on going thing because my warranty is up in the Spring!

lapasada · October 2005

My wife drives a 1991 Maxima which only has 14,500 miles on it. At 9,500 the trouble light came on. Took it to dealer, (extended warranty). They changed the 02 oxygen sensor. Last week my wife took a shot trip and the trouble light came on again (now has 14,500 miles). Back to dealer under extended warranty. Again, 02 oxygen sensors bad. Is this a common problem with the maxima's? lt seems odd that these sensors are failing at low mileage. Thank God for extended warranty. These parts are expensive.

edward1234 · October 2005

I have a 2000 maxima w/ 102,000 mile, that has been shutting off while in park, i took it to the dealer and he told me that is was my air filter, so i bought a new filter. the problem started again, with the ses light comming on, and the car again shuts off while in park, the rpms drop delow 500, and then the dashboard lights up and car shuts off. Now i take it back to the dealer and they tell me that i need to change my air flow sensor, $450. IS THIS REALLY NECESSARY? DO I HAVE ANY OTHER OPTIONS, AND IS IT REALLY THE SENSOR THAT NEEDS REPLACING? PLEASE HELP

ashanti · October 2005

Before I get my 95 SE towed to the dealership. It is making a loud knocking noise from inside the engine. The car will turnover fine and immediately starrt making the knocking noise, it is very LOUD. Once I give it some gas the noise speeds up. Then I let it idle and it will eventually stall itself out. It is not driveable. The noise only gets louder and the car stops every 5-10 feet stalling out. I know it is expensive, I just wonder if I could have someone call me and listen to the noise and tell me what you think. My husband changed the spark plugs thinking it would correct the problem. There is no smoke coming out of the tail pipe and no code for us to go off of. The oil is changed regularly. The car was sitting up in my driveway for 9 months and it was not driven, but I was wondering what it was that could cause these symptoms. I am preparing to buy another engine, but if some one could give me some more insight before the dealership totally screws me I would appreciate it.

ladylily05 · October 2005

I have a 98 maxima, a couple of months ago the check engine light came on. When I went for my inspection automatically failed if light is on. Mechanic told me after diagnostic that O2 and knock sensor codes registered. Said to replace O2 sensor. did that a week later light came back on. Codes still registering 02 sensor and knock sensor!! what could be the problem and solution?

essvee2 · October 2005

Just found this site and thought I could get an idea about any maintainence issues any of you would anticipate with a 2002 Maxima SE w/ 76k? Things that commonly go wrong that I could be proactive about? Winter tire recommendations (live in Pittsburgh)? The car is great (except for the gas mileage....swear I can see the needle dropping), look forward to some good tips and advice, thanks everyone.

SV

ashanti · October 2005

Have you been using a lower octane gas recently?

dahuber · October 2005

Well, my wife's 2001 Maxima GLE has about 71k now and I'm getting ready to do some service items in the next couple months:

-New drivebelts
-Change Coolant
-Change Cabin Air filter
-Check Brake pads and rotors
-Change brake fluid

For winter tires, we use Bridgestone Blizzaks.
HTH.
Dave

lapasada · October 2005

When we purchased this maxima in 2001, gas prices were low and followed the owner's manual and used high octane fuel. After a couple of years with gas prices rising, my wife tried mid grade fuel and car ran fine; however, at 9,000 miles on odometer, got trouble light and 02 Oxygen Sensors needed to be replaced. As gas prices got higher, my wife tried 87 octane fuel. Car ran fine, no ping, etc., however, within a few months after going to 87 octane we got the trouble light and at 14,400 miles, another O2 Oxygen Sensor problem. Does switching grades of cause these problems?

kr6464 · October 2005

My 2000 just had the same problem. It was the 02 sensor that was bad, It's not getting the correct mix of gas and air, that's what is causing the knocking. I brought mine to the dealer only because they need to re-set the computer and have the correct systems to do that. It cost about $ 450.00. and the noise went away. Good Luck!

tom69 · October 2005

While driving under normal conditions either hot or cold, the engine will begin to sputter just like the ignition or fuel was being turned on and off. I have tried a power transistor and camshaft pos. sensor (dealer installed), ECM, fuel pump and filter, and tested the O2 sensor with an ohmmeter and for power. I cannot simulate the condition at idle

roar1 · October 2005

Stay away from the dealer that you have been going to. They don't know what in the @#&# they are doing!!!! Air filters and Mass Airflow sensors typically don't prevent a car from starting. The above items will typically affect acceleration.

With the mileage that you have on the vehicle I would have them clean the" Neutral Start Switch " . This switch is connected to the gear selector and only allows starting the car in neutral or park. This only pertains to an auto.trans equipped vehicle. However, if the switch is shot , it will need to be replaced.

My $0.02. Good luck !!!!

rafa · October 2005

Hi we have a brand new nissan maima se that we bought a couple months ago and its time for its first oil change wanted to use syntechic oil maybe mobil 1. I hear that oil is thicker I also have a 2004 nissan titan that i bought new last year but i havent used syntechic motor oil will use it next oil change has 11,500 miles on it can someone explain about the syntechic oil thanks

bobm10 · October 2005

Is it necessary to remove the intake plenum to change the spark plugs in a 2002 Maxima? Thanks, Bob.

highroller · October 2005

IT seems like you're all set to use synthetic oil. In my opinion and many other's, synthetic is very beneficial during hard cold winter months. Since the weather is so cold, it can cause the engine to have poor starts, thus can cause engine damage later on. With Mobil 1(since you stated you will be using it), its additives will put less strain on your engine when it starts in the cold weather. Synthetics can also hold its viscosity little bit longer whether in an extreme hot temperature or in extreme cold temperature, whereas, conventional oils would lose its viscocity quicker. I would stick with what your manual says to use like 5W-30 or 10W-30 etc. Even though most people would say that synthetics oils can be changed longer then the traditional 3,000 miles or up to 20,000 miles!, i would still change the oil & filter every 3,000-5,000 miles or so( which would be about twice a year). Any oil, whether it's conventional or synthetic, will get very, very dirty during the 3,000-5,000 miles interval. If you care about your new car, i would change it no later than 5,000 miles. Also, conventional oils can cause sludge build-up whereas synthetics are advantageous in this area. They keep your engine sludge-free and even if you have sludge in your other car, they can remove sludge buildup effectively.

Highroller

aparekh · October 2005

hi,
perhaps adding the following check might be good:
1. Timing belt (if you have a chain no need to check)
2. Air filter (engine)
3. tire inspection / rotation
4. break oil
5. anti-freeze

regards
ash

aparekh · October 2005

hi,
perhaps a check of the dynamo would be good.
the dynamo may not the charging the battery with enough ohms, hence the battery will over loose charge over time and will required more key clicks to start the engine.
Take a volt meter stick the ends on the connection of the dynamo and measure the charge it produces, if not upto recommended output, then that might be one of the issues.

regards
ash

bobbyr4 · October 2005

HI lapasada,
I'm not exactly sure what causes the O2 sensors to fail but I know it can't be from your fuel. I know that premium fuel is recommended and now on my 4th maxima of every generation (except of recent) I've always put premium fuel in my cars, no exceptions and O2 sensors have gone in my vehicle too. All this to say I think it's more of a defect that anything. As my mechanic tells me, (a senior mechanic for nissan) it's very common. One possible solution that I've seen done in the past was having the sensor removed and dipped in brake cleaner fluid. I've been told that its more of a corrosion issue and in some cases can be solved through this technique.

bobbyr4 · October 2005

You should have nissan hook your car into their computer to do a proper diagnostic of the potential problem. It can be a number of things but you won't know until the test has been done. The problem with buying some of these cars at the auction is that if there was an issue causing that light to come on, with the right equipment the light can be easily reset and would not come for up to 200-250 miles after being reset. But you just but yourself a "silent" problem.

bobbyr4 · October 2005

It can just be timing. I had a similar experience with my max. The problem is that these cars ahave a number of O2 sensors but the diagnotic equipment can not pin point the exact one that is faulty. And even if they did pin point the problem, it's not unlikely that other might follow in it's failing.

bobbyr4 · October 2005

I had a similar experince with my late '99 max se. It was a 5 speed manual trans. In the end the problem was my Systems Idle valve that need to be changed. When i was able to get it out of gear it would drive ok but i soon as i hit the clutch and brought the car to a neutral position it would cut off, similar to being in park. Does the problem also happen when you are in drive but at a stop?

bobbyr4 · October 2005

As a fellow winter driver (montreal,quebec) I recommend Nokian NRW true all season tires religiously. Its a good idea to put them on seperate black rims one inch smaller than your current wheel size with a higher profile tire, (save you lots of $$). It's a little pricier that your everyday brand Michelin Alpine or Blizzaks but the control blended with their performance rating is absolutely worth it. Most rally cars in europe swear by these rubbers and so do I. I have a 01 Max. SE. As far as problems that i've notice you really can't anticipate. Keep $150.00 a month a side for general repair is probably not a terrible idea, I guess that pretty much goes for any car.

pho · October 2005

Hi , I have a 2003 Max GLE. Lately when I drove on the rough road I heard some strange noise from the passanger side . It sounds like some coins hit each other. I know the sound was made from the car but I could not pin point the exact location. Anybody got any idea what the sound was? I know the dealer won't look at this little problem . THANKS HO

toytech4 · October 2005

Where did you hear of dipping the o2 sensor in brake cleaner! LOL ! I am a Master Technician with 20 years of import knowlage, and I have to say this is the most rediculious thing I have ever heard of ! Have you ever changed the o2 sensors on a 2001 maxima? You dont just take the things out in 2 minutes and dip them in brake cleaner, then "throw them back in" to se if it is fixed......... The labor time for both sensors is 1.5 hours. They are prone to failure, so is the mass airflow sensor.
These fourms would be alot more helpfull if people like you would refrain from posts with poor information.

nberzati · October 2005

I own a 2001 Maxima (bought last year). I've replaced 3 sensors, one in the front and both rear sensors. I was told by my service writer that Nissan has a technical service bulletin "TSB" vs. a recall on the sensors. I think the difference is that you don't really hear about the bulletins like you do the recalls. Apparently the sensors are a problem with that year and some other years as well. Thank God for warranties!!!! The total replacement cost for both rear sensors was $850 - $150 each for the sensors, $200 each for the labor and $150 to re-program the computer.

As far as your question about the grade of gas being a factor, I only have to say that I've always used premium/ultimate in my car, not only because the book recommends it, but because I believe the octane level should be higher to burn cleaner. I had a Toyota Corolla and I used a cheaper grade of gasoline just once and my car was shaking so bad and didn't have any pick-up, I thought the engine was blown. Prior to that, I never had a problem with the Corolla.

nberzati · October 2005

I've got a 2001 Maxima (automatic, not stick) that has problems starting when it's warm/humid or raining. It will crank, but won't turnover. It usually takes 2 - 3 times to get it started. I've taken it to 3 different Nissan service centers 4 different times and they keep telling me that nothing's wrong. This is extremely annoying when I know that something is wrong!!!! :mad: They've checked the starter and the computer, but they said that no code is coming up.

Recently, I've replaced 3 sensors, one front and two rear along with the air filter. I thought this might make a difference, but it didn't. My service writer thinks it may be electrical, but he can't pinpoint anything unless they get a code or my car acts up while they have it in the shop. This is frustrating because the problem is intermittent.

My question is this: can something else be the problem without showing up on the computer? My friends are telling me that they think it's the ignition switch. Since I have a Nissan service contract, I can't have a backyard mechanic work on my car as it might void my warranty. Car experts, any suggestions?

highroller · October 2005

Usually it's the starter, i don't understand how the dealer can misconcept this. IT could also be the alternator.

nberzati · October 2005

I've had alternators go out on me before and I don't think that's what's wrong in this case. I suspect that the service writer is correct in guessing that it's electrical. I just can't be sure until it gets worse or a code finally shows up. The problem is that it's intermittent and doesn't happen every day. I just don't want to end up getting stuck far from home with a car that won't start.

Nissan Maxima Maintenance and Repair

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