Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
As far as your question about the grade of gas being a factor, I only have to say that I've always used premium/ultimate in my car, not only because the book recommends it, but because I believe the octane level should be higher to burn cleaner. I had a Toyota Corolla and I used a cheaper grade of gasoline just once and my car was shaking so bad and didn't have any pick-up, I thought the engine was blown. Prior to that, I never had a problem with the Corolla.
P.S. My original reply went to bobbyr4 by mistake. Sorry Bobby.
Other standard repairs:
Change of serpentine belt, tires, battery, front & rear brakes and front rotors.
I've kept up on the maintenance and haven't had any repairs out of the ordinary.
To make a long story short - nothing was ever done about it and the problem still exists.
However, purely by coincidence I discovered today that there is a Nissan TSB (Service Bulletin) that describes the exact problem I'm seeing and provides the solution (ordering a new Audio unit, etc).
I'm wondering if the fact that there is a TSB for an acknowleged problem means that it will be fixed at no charge if I take the car to the dealer (even though it is beyond its 3yr / 36000 coverage).
Wondering if anyone has any experience with TSBs and how dealers react to them.
Thanks!
Any thoughts? Thanks.
I have a 1991 Maxima with auto transmission and it was working fine, I noticed that it's transmission fluid level has increased, initially I removed some of it and brought it to level by thinking that mechanic has made a mistake, then next day it was again high, then I noticed that it was probably a seal leakage and coolant was mixing with transmission fluid. In between that I noticed that gears have started slipping too. But they work, it only happens when fluid/transmission gets warmer. I have stopped using the vehicle.
Can any one give me an idea what would be the cost of fixing that leakage, as one mechanic told me it will be around $1500-2000. So I have not dared to go to another one so far.
Some one on the forum told me that I can import a used transmission from Japan and the whole cost would be less than $1000 including labor etc. But I have yet to get the name of the company which imports parts.
Any other ideas?
Thanks.
Anyway, have the radiator tested by all means or the problem will re-occur.
thank you
MrShiftright
Host
My nightmare scenario is that the car won't start, I have it towed to the dealer ,and the #@%& thing starts and I'm back to square one. Don't you just love intermittent starting problems! :mad:
Thanks
Transmission is harsh, torque at low rpms is horrible. Gas mileage isn't any better that the GM 3800 supercharged w/ 4 speed transmission.
Overall confused as to why I spent $30k for this car???
Torque steer is absolutely terrible, compared to my 1998 Regal GS - which has more torque, ironically. With the Regal, you can stomp on it in and it doesn't pull - period. Basically, I think that you will learn not to bother pushing the car... that is the only way I've figured out to avoid the steering wheel from jerking around.
Already been to the dealer, and of course, I was ripped off.
They fixed the problem all of about 20 minutes, and then the light was back on.
Any advice?
aikido2
I went to the dealer for my brakes and they wanted $800. I went to a place I've used before and I ended up paying $325. Big difference.
Bottom line: intermittent starter/ignition problems suck. They can NEVER get the problem to duplicate, but it always does it when you're driving it. I swear, some cars are just possessed.
The mechanic also said that when I push on the gas in Park, the motor seems to lift up a little bit. Would that cause vibration and would it be resolved with a new motor mount boot?
Thanks in advance for any ideas or suggestions.
Matt
I did get the job done at MAACO (before I hear any grumbles, I was stuck in LA and I didn't really have a choice. I had to get it fixed) and they have a warranty on it. Maybe I'll drop by there this week and have them do a once over for me before I do the boot thing.
So, are you leaning more towards transmission rather than motor mount boot?
Matt
But, when I turn on Ignition, the Alarm System is getting activated and because of that the CAR won't start (as ignition and Alarm cannot start at same time.) Pepboys told me to take it to Nissan Dealer. And Dealer told me that he will charge $110 just for diagnosis. I don't know how much it will cost to repair as the car is worth only $1000 per KBB. Please help. Any input would be appreciated.
- Harshavardhan SG
Actually, unfortunately, the following are real problems for the 5th gen. Max....... ignition coils, O2 sensors,
MAF ( Mass Airflow ) sensor,and cam and crank angle sensors (TSB).
Original tranny,A/C,exhaust,fuel pump,starter,hoses etc., though i did replace radiator, belts(they were orig), a ball joint and finally the alternator. Has never failed to run perfectly, uses not a drop of oil and gets 27mpg on hwy. Original pearl paint looks showroom new. It's worth way more than i could ever sell it for so i'll keep it. But as you know, at this point a few niggling issues occur like slow windows, sticky locks, weak hood struts, worn suspension parts, etc.
Here's my questions, if anyone out there can comment or help me out....
1)Suspension! Rear struts are original and seem fine. Front struts have 95,000 miles on them but car doesn't porpoise or rebound when you do the old "push down on the fender" test. I believe they're fine. I replaced one ball joint a few years ago. I think perhaps that my strut mounts are bad. Why? A few mech's have suggested the issue and the car thumps and knocks alot over small bumps/irregularities at low speeds. It's obnoxious! Is this a likelihood?
2) Transmission engagement! My tranny is orig' and upshifts and downshifts fine. I've had the fluid changed once. If you slowly shift the auto trans into drive, it fails to engage until you tap on the top of the shifter, even if you do it lightly! If you shift down from park to drive firmly and quickly, it immed. goes in to drive. The tranny DOES NOT slip, and all downshifts, passing gears, etc. work fine, as does the adjustable transmission system.
I've heard this is a common issue on these cars and all it needs is a small adjustment, or a small part changed. Any clue, anyone?
Like the previous message, my Max was stalling after 10 minutes of drive time. I then had to wait 60 seconds or so, re-start and then all was fine.
Now the car will 'die' without any warning within the first 10-15 minutes of driving. This can 2-3 times, then the car runs fine. But, if parked for 1-2 hours, the same thing happens again.
My mechanic cant seem to locate the problem.
Any suggestions??
Thanks
my Max stalls witiin 10-15 of starting--with no Warning!! I then wait 60 seconds or so, re-start and then all was fine.
This can happen 2-3 times, then the car runs fine. But, if parked for 1-2 hours, the same thing happens again.
My mechanic cant seem to locate the problem.
I love this car and would hate to say goodbye to it.
3.0L, 190HP, 160K miles.
Any suggestions?
Thanks.
Regards,
Bill